never tried feeling it but i cant hear anything.. the tabs on it look old and burned.. i went over everything with that meter except that relay.. the coil isnt pulsing anymore all the wires are fine.. i looked thru my bentley manual and decided i should change that relay..
You might want to check the primary/secondary resistance, just for S+G's.
But if you have good primary voltage and ground and the secondary terminals don't have continuity, that says it all.
when i tested the coil i get the normal 12v at both posts with the ignition on.. when cranking it doesnt pulse like it used to.. idk.. i really need someone that know what to do here to just fix it once and forall.. i need the car operational by wednesday night.. so it can be towed and driving sorta thursday for its new exhaust.. if anyone is close by please help
btw i have no idea what a S+G is or what your talking about.. remember i JUST learned how to poke things with the meter lol
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-05-2011 at 09:15 PM.
whats the color of your car? i really like it.
delphin grey
guys any information on what to try and fix? i replaced the DME relay 5 times with different ones.. still doesnt run.. the bentley manual doesnt give me many specifics on how to fix this as it covers the 740 and 750 models.. HELPP!!!!
im replacing wires now... im about to just try a new ECU. i need this car running by thursday
s+g= shits and giggles.
every thing has 12v its isnt pulsing anymore... would changing ECU's help?
The only reason you ever need to replace a wire is that you have something different at one end of it than at the other. If you can't verify that condition, don't replace any wires.
You said you shorted something to ground. Have you checked all of your fuses?
checked all fuses.. i think it was the small green wire the shorted to ground.. and i had to extend the factory wires to move the coil in the first place.
otherwise the downpipe would hit or cook the ignition coil.. i just dont know how to solve this.. we ran a wire drectly from the ignition to the coil and got no spark.. then we ran a wire from the battery and got no spark.. so it has to be the little green wire from the DME not doing its job.. there arent any breaks in the wire.. so could i have possibly messed up the DME thingy by letting that little wire short to ground?
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-07-2011 at 12:04 AM.
Probe the pin on the DME connector where the green wire goes. Do you have +12 there with the key on?
Have you verified that you have +12 at the right pins of the DME relay?
Might want to get an E34 Bentley so you have the wiring diagrams for a 535i.
since i dont know what pin it is on the ecu.. can i test each wire with the ignition on? the large green wire should have 12V the black wire should have 12v and the little green wire does a pulsing thing right?? correct me if im wrong
When it's set to measure Voltage, the meter won't hurt anything by checking it.
You could look at the DME connectors and see how many little green wires go into them.
The big green wire and little green wire are the same circuit. The big green wire provides +12 to the coil when the key's on and is that large because it needs to carry a moderate amount of current. The little green wire is key-on voltage to the DME and is smaller because it doesn't have to carry much current.
The large black wire is what should have the pulsed voltage.
Do you know how to use the continuity function?
Last edited by DarkSideofWill; 11-07-2011 at 11:33 AM.
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-07-2011 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Lol... well at least is runs. You may want to put your stock injectors back in and prop the wastegate open to get it on the trailer for the exhaust fab and take some of the pressure off to get the problem resolved with Miller.
Edit: http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=electrical+...+test+with+DVM
ok i figured out the problem.. the ECU cover is grounding something out.. soo the ecu cover is off WAR chip is in and it runs fine.. i think my car has PMS
That'll happen with 2-3x as much injector as the chip is calibrated for...
If you're going to run it more than a few seconds with the stock chip, swap back to the stock injectors. Running 42's with the stock chip will dump enough fuel into the engine to wash the oil off the bores and sign you up for a rebuild.
Last edited by DarkSideofWill; 11-07-2011 at 05:19 PM.
i have the war chip in there now.. running an alpina B10 map.. i dont know what map to use or how to adjust for fuel.. il fix the map now if i can
shit i had pictures of someones map on here i was gunna use but now i cant find it.. Martinator can you post high res pictures of your WAR tune again? i have a feeling your tune will be way better to run then the one im using now.
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-08-2011 at 12:01 AM.
i dont like kids.. lol punch away
today im going to upload a map from Martinator and see if she runs any better.. if she does then im gunna drain the oil and replace the last fitting that has a leak so my oil system is leak free.
ran martinator's map.. it was a cold start and ran a bit rich.. still has some dark smoke coming out.. i need a decent tune to drive home on.. the exhaust shop is 6 miles from here.. will i be ok driving it home?
this album is the tune im running..
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ictureid=10486
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-08-2011 at 08:51 AM.
Last edited by 89BMW735il; 11-08-2011 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Why would you buy the WAR chip and not the MAF?
Bookmarks