It was probably just burnoff from what you spilled. All is well. Carry on.
white smoke is not oil related, bluest smoke is oil.
Tom D
77 e21 - m42
88 e30m3
04 330 dinan3
84 r1000rt
02 r1150rs
all of them gray
14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!
just clearing up the color issue so that someone who reads this doesn't think the exhaust smoke from their bad headgasket is due to oil consumption.
Tom D
77 e21 - m42
88 e30m3
04 330 dinan3
84 r1000rt
02 r1150rs
all of them gray
14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!
oil cap insert is the plastic inner cylinder that the oil filter basically mounts onto, its built into the cap, but can be removed with enough force.
Is car driveable? will it drive normally off idle? I would suggest driving the car for a couple days, or untill the service engine soon lamp comes on again. If and when it does, please update case with fault code. also ensure that vanos solenoids and camshaft sensors are plugged in.
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
Car runs great as soon as I hit the throttle. Replaced both camshaft sensors, solenoids plugged in, no change. Still getting code P0011. The first time I started the car after the oil change, it ran VERY ruff and even died a couple of times, it got better after I drove it, that was 2 weeks ago, since then it just idles a bit bad.Originally Posted by slvrXI
That fault code indicates a rationality check issue between relative crankshaft speed compared to desired cam shaft angle, and actual camshaft angle on the intake camshaft. Narrowed down to: faulty cam sensor/wiring/connector on intake side, faulty vanos solenoid/wiring/connector on intake side, faulty vanos unit, or faulty crankshaft position sensor/pick up wheel/wiring/connections. If all sensors, solenoids, wires and connections are checked and ok on the intake side, look into crank position sensor. If fault cannot be found, inspection of cams and vanos will be nessecary.
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
I'm having mechanic chk all of that on Tuesday, I will keep you posted. Thank you for the great detail.Originally Posted by slvrXI
Ok, now I'm really stumped. Today, the car seems to have fixed itself. The idle is back to normal and the CES light is off, it runs great! After toying with several hundred dollars worth of parts with no cure, it seems to have reset the timing by itself. I've driven about 1000 miles since the problem started. Does anyone have any idea? I'm not complaining, just confused.Originally Posted by rlmelfi
Hey guys I just want to leave my experience here because this thread is the closest I could find to my issue. So I changed my OFHG and when I started the car afterwards it had a rough idle that would instantly go away after ~2000 rpms. I got P0011 (which was new) and two system lean codes that were there before. The shop suggested I replace the VANOS system for $1600. I knew my VANOS seals weren't any good but they were probably not the cause. I drove the car for about 100 miles and changed my hose from the CCV to Dipstick because I found it torn and the problem seemed to get a little better. I did an oil change at about 130 miles after OFHG because I reused my oil (which was a big mistake) and it made the idle worse. I got the VANOS oil line and intake solenoid at a junk yard, and crusher washers for the oil line as well as OEM solenoid o-rings from the BMW dealership. After replacing both pieces the rough idle disappeared completely. I have yet to reset the codes and check if they return. I think my issue was that I reused my crusher washers for the oil line, that I didn't tighten it hard enough in that limited space or that the dirty oil clogged the solenoid because when I took it out the pin would not press in like in the replacement one I got. It's hard to say because I changed both things at the same time.
Go ahead and clear the codes, if they return then I would check connections for the MAF,
along with the intake boots and associated hoses that you may have disturbed during the OFHG replacement.
Bookmarks