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Thread: Bad idle after oil change

  1. #1
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    Bad idle after oil change

    Just changed oil and filter on 02 325i, I spilled oil on the engine while doing it, now it's not idling well, it's shaky. It runs fine when I put gas to it. I cleaned the MAS in case oil got on it, the oil level is good also. Could something have gotten oil on it that would have caused this?

  2. #2
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    Make sure that the oil filler cap is on properly.

  3. #3
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    Yes, I checked it, it's on correctly.

  4. #4
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    Maybe it got on to the spark plugs or something?
    My Previous Vehicle - In the Edmonton/Northern AB Area? We're having a meet... Click Here

  5. #5
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    Spark plugs. Pop the cover and have a look. If there is any oil in there that's likely the issue.

  6. #6
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    Did you just spill oil on the engine side, or did oil spill over onto the intake side?

    Post your solution here once you find out what the problem was.

  7. #7
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    If you didn't overfilled it or spilled into coil wells, maybe you put non oem oil filter and oil or you remove oil cap insert causing VANOS solenoids to bind. Worst case will be central bolts for VANOS gear broke off I seen that happen after oil changes in my dealer.

  8. #8
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    If it were on the plugs, wouldn't it run rough even at speed? It's only bad idling

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik2003 View Post
    If you didn't overfilled it or spilled into coil wells, maybe you put non oem oil filter and oil or you remove oil cap insert causing VANOS solenoids to bind. Worst case will be central bolts for VANOS gear broke off I seen that happen after oil changes in my dealer.
    Wow! Interesting info.

    rlmelfi, has the problem resolved itself? I'm curious about this one.

    Reboot

  10. #10
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    Ok, I'm getting a code.. P0011-- A Camshaft Position. Timing over-advanced.
    Now what??

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlmelfi View Post
    Ok, I'm getting a code.. P0011-- A Camshaft Position. Timing over-advanced.
    Now what??
    For the BMW, this would make erik2003's comment most likely correct. You'll need to check those center bolts. This will come on when the car detects the intake cam timing is off, but can be triggered by crappy idling too.

  12. #12
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    Ok, will check that, thanks. How would they brake just from oil change?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlmelfi View Post

    Ok, will check that, thanks. How would they brake just from oil change?

    how would they break? injuring minds want to know.
    Tom D

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  14. #14
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    If I'm honest, I do not completely understand eriks post, but the code has to do with the variable valve timing, specifically the intake cam being off timimg (according to AllData anyways...). Since Eriks mentioned possible binding of the vanos, thought checking those bolts wouldn't hurt.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom D View Post
    how would they break? injuring minds want to know.
    Quote Originally Posted by telijah View Post
    If I'm honest, I do not completely understand eriks post, but the code has to do with the variable valve timing, specifically the intake cam being off timimg (according to AllData anyways...). Since Eriks mentioned possible binding of the vanos, thought checking those bolts wouldn't hurt.
    I'm no tech, apparently Erik is...my understanding is as follows...
    without the insert in the cap there is a possiblity of unfiltered oil reaching the head damaging/clogging the VANOS solenoids.

    He can explain it further. My understanding if from the N51/2/4 motors, but I guess it applies here.

  16. #16
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    Just curious, are you getting little puffs of white smoke when you first start it up?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlmelfi View Post
    Ok, will check that, thanks. How would they brake just from oil change?
    They wouldn't! Ignore his comment, I've only seen this happen with S54 motors and it had nothing to do with oil changes except for the lack of.

    BTW whens the last time you changed oil prior to this incident?

    Possible scenario 1: Oil cap not fitted properly, oil filter cap not fitted properly, o-rings missing from oil cap assembly, oil level over-filled or under filled.

    Scenario 2: oil has not been changed in a while, build up around internal vanos components allowing vanos seals to hold proper pressure. Once old, dirty oil is removed and new, clean, slippery oil is introduced, vanos seals no longer holding proper pressures.

    Scenario 3: current fault is irrelavant to your maintenance repair, however coincidentally occuring at the same time!!

    My suggestions: back track your steps. Clear fault memory, start engine and run at idle untill reaches operating temperature. Perform additional oil change using OEM filter. Allow oil to drain out of engine for as long as possible... (I go overnight every other oil change.) Upon start up of engine after new oil was added (DONT OVERFILL!!!) increase engine revs for at least 5-10 seconds. This will supply all components with nessecary oil pressure.

    Update this thread with new findings, or Private message me with any questions.

    -BMW Level 1 Master certified technician.

    Quote Originally Posted by SexualChocolate View Post
    I'm no tech, apparently Erik is...my understanding is as follows...
    without the insert in the cap there is a possiblity of unfiltered oil reaching the head damaging/clogging the VANOS solenoids.

    He can explain it further. My understanding if from the N51/2/4 motors, but I guess it applies here.
    You are right with the N motors, but with the M54, Vanos oil supply comes from sump, not oil filter housing.
    Last edited by slvrXI; 08-24-2011 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    -///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey

    pwn noobs /thread

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvrXI View Post

    -BMW Level 1 Master certified technician.



    You are right with the N motors, but with the M54, Vanos oil supply comes from sump, not oil filter housing.

    Nicely done! Thanks for the clarification! I guess I just need to be careful with the E90 and not have to pay special attention to my E46

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvrXI View Post
    They wouldn't! Ignore his comment, I've only seen this happen with S54 motors and it had nothing to do with oil changes except for the lack of.

    BTW whens the last time you changed oil prior to this incident?

    Possible scenario 1: Oil cap not fitted properly, oil filter cap not fitted properly, o-rings missing from oil cap assembly, oil level over-filled or under filled.

    Scenario 2: oil has not been changed in a while, build up around internal vanos components allowing vanos seals to hold proper pressure. Once old, dirty oil is removed and new, clean, slippery oil is introduced, vanos seals no longer holding proper pressures.

    Scenario 3: current fault is irrelavant to your maintenance repair, however coincidentally occuring at the same time!!

    My suggestions: back track your steps. Clear fault memory, start engine and run at idle untill reaches operating temperature. Perform additional oil change using OEM filter. Allow oil to drain out of engine for as long as possible... (I go overnight every other oil change.) Upon start up of engine after new oil was added (DONT OVERFILL!!!) increase engine revs for at least 5-10 seconds. This will supply all components with nessecary oil pressure.

    Update this thread with new findings, or Private message me with any questions.

    -BMW Level 1 Master certified technician.



    You are right with the N motors, but with the M54, Vanos oil supply comes from sump, not oil filter housing.
    Damn...thank God Mikey is back! Nice post brutha.

    by Dane Wilson, on Flickr

  20. #20
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    Haha just getting back into the E46 spirit! Been busy with work, but for the past week I've had an E46 with the trickiest of complaints and to be honest, I had to refer to the forums for any tips or tricks! Saw that my best buds were still posting here so I couldnt resist but join in!!! Unfortunately still haven't fixed the car, starting to think its software issue, gonna try a new DME tomorrow . Car bucks and jerks and RPMs jump around @ low RPM.
    -///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey

    pwn noobs /thread

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvrXI View Post
    Haha just getting back into the E46 spirit! Been busy with work, but for the past week I've had an E46 with the trickiest of complaints and to be honest, I had to refer to the forums for any tips or tricks! Saw that my best buds were still posting here so I couldnt resist but join in!!! Unfortunately still haven't fixed the car, starting to think its software issue, gonna try a new DME tomorrow . Car bucks and jerks and RPMs jump around @ low RPM.
    Can't you just perfrom a fresh install and latest BMW update (2008?)

    by Dane Wilson, on Flickr

  22. #22
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    Updated vehicle software in may of this year, customer states that this is when their complaint first occured!!! I asked my foreman if we could downgrade the software lol and he said, yes but it wouldnt be warranteed. Worst part is DME has already had 12 flashes, these are only good for 13, then the DME needs to be replaced. So i dont want to risk it... Besides, I've had plenty of cars that wouldnt properly program the parameters so we just replace the DME... Those modules are quite picky and tricky when it comes to software updates! Some love it, some hate it! Sometimes programming when the engine is cool makes a big difference from programming when the engine is warm, even though instructions say to program only when engine is at operating temperature... We find it best to program when vehicle has sat overnight. Damn I've learned a lot the past 2 years. Been sent to training in South Carolina, Atlanta, California, and Chicago. I love this job and just want to help the E46ers since 1% of us are still covered under warranty.
    -///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey

    pwn noobs /thread

  23. #23
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    haha, well considering I swapped DISA, ICV, CCV, ELV, HFM, with MY OWN vehicle, i'm almost positive that those items are not at fault.

    add: ugh! On my own car I got scared shitless, After re-programming DME, would get infinite crank with no start... Had to re-align EWS with DME. Then it started no prob.
    Last edited by slvrXI; 08-24-2011 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    -///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey

    pwn noobs /thread

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvrXI View Post
    haha, well considering I swapped DISA, ICV, CCV, ELV, HFM, with MY OWN vehicle, i'm almost positive that those items are not at fault.

    add: ugh! On my own car I got scared shitless, After re-programming DME, would get infinite crank with no start... Had to re-align EWS with DME. Then it started no prob.
    Damn. Sounds....like......fun....

    by Dane Wilson, on Flickr

  25. #25
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    I'm not sure I understand, what is the 'oil cap insert'?

    Response to slvrXI,,, oil was changed 6000 miles previously, not overfilled, used mobil 1 0w 40. I changed oil again as you suggested,,,,no difference.

    No puffs of white smoke btw.
    Last edited by rlmelfi; 08-25-2011 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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