Start to finish bumper repair II - prep for paint

[Arrows1]

OK, second phase. Prepping for paint with required material.

A paint job is only as good as the foundation. If you rush things or cut corners, it will always show in the end. Attention to detail is absolutely critical when prepping for paint. It's "good enough" will come back to haunt you.

Take your time, be patient. Be mentally prepared to spend some time on this. Also, issues such as scratches, dings, runs or other surface defects can be fixed up to the point you lay clear on the panel. Once you clear, your committed to the end.

All material used in this repair has been purchased from a local auto paint supply store or LKQ/Keystone Automotive Company.

Next up - refinish!

http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/...d%20materials/

[dangerwillrbnsn]

Watching this one carefully, as I'm about to paint my entire car... the bumpers are my most feared point, as they flex a bit. I do not want the paint cracking/peeling.

Thanks for the walk-through.

DWR

[Arrows1]

No need to fear these covers. They are considered a semi rigid bumper. They are not prone to cracking from handling before or during installation. I know some paint purist will condone me for saying this but the only time I use flex agent is on pure flexible covers. Flexible constitutes the ability to fold it back on its self and return to shape with no issues(prior to paint). Typically these are yellow in color and on mostly domstic vehicles. Crown vics, older Luminas, Cavaliers etc.
If you you hit something hard enough to crack the finish on your Beemer, you will need to repair the cover also. Just like a fender, if a baseball hits the car it dents the panel but doesn't slinter the paint. Only unless there is major deformation does it slpinter. All current paints are slightly elastic by nature. Let your leftover clearcoat sit in the cup over night. It hardens but is flexible at the same time, like a super ball.

I would be worried about the all over. Way more opportunity and area for things to go wrong.

[dangerwillrbnsn]

So if I've already got paint on the bumper, and it's in good shape then I should only scuff it or sand it with 400-600 to paint over?

[Arrows1]

Correct. For best results, wetsand with 400 and follow by 600. This eliminates the need for any sealer. Anything coarser will leave scratches that may not be able to be filled by your basecoat or may shrink back if your your using a single stage. Try not to go through the topcoat when sanding if you don't have to remove defects.