Anyone have much experience with buying an e36 with an m3 conversion?

[threesennui]

I am looking at a '97 that has been converted to an m3 that is for sale. I am fairly new to bimmerforums. I have an 87 e30 sedan and have learned some of the typical bmw issues pretty quickly. Besides the s52 swap that was proffessionally done, the car has a lot of mods.

What are some things I need to be on the lookout for?

I realize I am stepping into a car that has had a lot of aftermarket work done but what are some key things to keep an eye on.

Would anyone here purchase one that had been converted?

I have not yet been able to find anybody on here that like the conversions. I tried the search.

[granlund]

The M3 chassis had some extra structural bracing to cope with the increased power and being driven harder.

Check under the car where the rear subframe mounts to the body, the rear suspension trailing arm mounts and the shock towers. These are points where the sheetmetal rips more easily if the car is driven hard.

The M3 front suspension shares almost nothing with the non-M3 even though it looks the same. You might want to inquire exactly what was replaced.

[5OnTheFloor]

My '95 325is also had an S52 swap done, and it's been pretty reliable, but I'm amazed at that. I got into an accident a few months ago, and while repairing the damage my mechanic came across some frightening mistakes done by the guy that did the engine swap. For example, all the motor mount bolts were either broken or missing, the steering rack wasn't bolted in, the crappy Getrag 5 speed was used rather than the ZF, and I'm still chasing a small vacuum leak.

I'd get a very through PPI done before buying the car just to be on the safe side. I kinda like having an S52 in a lesser model 3 series, because it's a sleeper and I pay 325is insurance rather than M3 insurance haha

[threesennui]

Thanks for the advice. I will check out the rearend and make sure there's nothing wrong there.

I probably won't have an opportunity to get it checked out before purchase. I am excited about it being a bit of a sleeper. I'll have my buddy take a look see when I get back with it. I've got a pretty good eye on these things.

[flyfishvt]

If he won't let you take it for a PPI then you need to negotiate a lower price or walk away. Compression test and pressure test are pretty important on e36's since the cooling system is weak the head gasket is the biggest failure from an overheat. don't take anyones word for things. Take the time to get it checked out or walk away. As was mentioned here any mechanic can drop and engine in a car. There's more to it than that when you're the one buying it and paying extra for it.

how much is he asking?

[threesennui]

He is asking $4,500 for it. I have already negotiated him down since I have to travel and don't have time to get it checked out. I feel pretty good about the new price. I will be able to post some pics tomorrow. If I'm not confident in the purchase I will walk away. Not scared to look for something else.

[Bianca98]

I kinda like having an S52 in a lesser model 3 series, because it's a sleeper and I pay 325is insurance rather than M3 insurance haha

^This

I guess my questions would be more toward swapped parts. did you get the m3 suspension? brakes? The big question: Is it a conversion or just a motor swap? A motor swap to me is only worth in value the additional funds over the stock. If an nice M52 costs say 500-700, and a person could find a decent S52 for say 1500. the motor should add value given that it has been kept up. But dont let the motor fool you. As the man said eariler, a bad trans or driveshafts or thousands in suspension parts could make this car a real loser. Ebay didnt have an S52 for less than 2500 tho.

[dano670]

Be very cautious about buying a S52 swapped car. S52s and M52s are very difficult to tell apart. There is a forum member here that bought one that was non legit.

Look at the size of the the front brakes. The rims almost have to be 17's to fit the M3 brakes. My rim to caliper clearance is less than 1/2 of an inch between the top of the caliper and the rim.

Also look at the oil filter. Metal tops are S52s and S50. Plastic tops are m50s and M52s.

The only vin stamp that I have seen on my M3 engine was on the back of the cylinder head and only visible with a mirror. This would definitely be worth checking. Run the vin at real oem.com and see if it checks.

Just because it has "M Power" valve covers does not make it an s52. Please be cautious. Also, take a lot of pics and post them. We can spot some bullshit that is going on possibly better than you because we can be more objective.

If I was an asshole, I could easily buy a M valve cover and the oil filter housing for less than $150, pick up a 328 for 3K and sell it as an S52 swap for $4500. But I don't do that.

[flyfishvt]

Be very cautious about buying a S52 swapped car. S52s and M52s are very difficult to tell apart. There is a forum member here that bought one that was non legit.

Look at the size of the the front brakes. The rims almost have to be 17's to fit the M3 brakes. My rim to caliper clearance is less than 1/2 of an inch between the top of the caliper and the rim.

Also look at the oil filter. Metal tops are S52s and S50. Plastic tops are m50s and M52s.

The only vin stamp that I have seen on my M3 engine was on the back of the cylinder head and only visible with a mirror. This would definitely be worth checking. Run the vin at real oem.com and see if it checks.

Just because it has "M Power" valve covers does not make it an s52. Please be cautious. Also, take a lot of pics and post them. We can spot some bullshit that is going on possibly better than you because we can be more objective.

If I was an asshole, I could easily buy a M valve cover and the oil filter housing for less than $150, pick up a 328 for 3K and sell it as an S52 swap for $4500. But I don't do that.

The best advice I've seen so far in this thread

[dano670]

I searched for the thread were I discouraged, pointed out flaws, in a car that had a "complete M3 conversion" which turned out to be just an 328 with 16" Contour knock offs and a "M Power" valve cover. That thread has since been deleted.

[red88ix]

Wouldn't it make more sense to just buy a decent M3 than to purchase a "converted" non M car? No matter how much you do it still isn't an M3. And if the mods are properly done I would almost bet that the real thing would be cheaper. If the car is solid isn't $4500 awfully cheap?

[LockDots]

Wouldn't it make more sense to just buy a decent M3 than to purchase a "converted" non M car? No matter how much you do it still isn't an M3. And if the mods are properly done I would almost bet that the real thing would be cheaper. If the car is solid isn't $4500 awfully cheap?

By that logic neither is the American M3

[UnderCoverGuy11]

Be very cautious about buying a S52 swapped car. S52s and M52s are very difficult to tell apart. There is a forum member here that bought one that was non legit.

Look at the size of the the front brakes. The rims almost have to be 17's to fit the M3 brakes. My rim to caliper clearance is less than 1/2 of an inch between the top of the caliper and the rim.

Also look at the oil filter. Metal tops are S52s and S50. Plastic tops are m50s and M52s.

The only vin stamp that I have seen on my M3 engine was on the back of the cylinder head and only visible with a mirror. This would definitely be worth checking. Run the vin at real oem.com and see if it checks.

Just because it has "M Power" valve covers does not make it an s52. Please be cautious. Also, take a lot of pics and post them. We can spot some bullshit that is going on possibly better than you because we can be more objective.

If I was an asshole, I could easily buy a M valve cover and the oil filter housing for less than $150, pick up a 328 for 3K and sell it as an S52 swap for $4500. But I don't do that.

M50,s had the metal top to the oil filter, atleast mine does..