Steering Guibo/Coupling- p/n or where to buy?

[gmushial]

AKG's one is for racing only. Seems more harder. Seems IE part is also performance/racing

I checked mine. Joints looks tight and no play.

This is good (tight, no play)... but as all our Z's age, this is going to be a maintenance question. ... on mine both a ujoint and rubber were gone, so it was a new one from bimmer, or a used one from eBay - I chose eBay, and it's holding up fine... though the other one I replaced on one of the other Z's I look after, although it was just the rubber that was gone, she wanted a new one, spent the money ($250??) and I installed it... but for some others, over time it might be nice to know that if it's only the rubber that needs replacing, that it can be done. And if one can do it for $17.49 shipped, that would be sweet.

[saneesh8]

Just want to update, I replaced the giubo with the E30 one. Part number #32311153993 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/32311153993/). It is exact same size, hole distance etc as Z3. I cut the rivets with an angle grinder and replaced the giubo. Used some matching bolts/nuts from Home Depot (heavy duty one's) and used the blue thread lock.

Old one, wasn't looking bad visually and didn't had rotational play (when tested in my hands). But the rubber was old. With new one, it completely eliminated the dead spot. It was not severe, but after driving another car, it was definitely noticeable. Now, lot better.

DIY is pretty easy (as long as no rust). Didn't took much time. I spend some time to avoid using angle grinder, finally used it.

1) Put the car in ramps so that wheels wont move. Lock the steering.
2) Remove the 13mm bolts from both ends (from rack and the steering side). An open end works better and it takes time. Remove the bolts completely.
3) Remove the steering rack's 2 15mm bolts. There is a nut on the top. Hold it with an open end and unscrew it.
4) Now wiggle the rack forward. You may have to slightly pry open at the end of the shaft.
5) Once it is free, move to the top part. Use a small flat head and slightly pry it open and pull it down. If there is rust, this will take some time.
6) Pull it out from the top.
7) Now use an angle grinder and carefully cut the rivets at the point where it is not flat. Basically at the metal area. Not at the rubber area. NOTE: If the joint(s) are loose, i think you need to replace the whole shaft.
8) Attach the new giubo with bolts and nuts and washers. Use blue lock tie.
9) While putting it back, inset at the top first. Push it all the way in and this helps to install at the bottom.
10) Now insert it at the rack and attach the 13mm bolt. The 13mm bolt, It goes only in one position of the shaft. You may have to turn the steering little bit so that it remains center.
11) Now adjust it at top and attach the 13mm bolt. You have to adjust it so that the 13mm bolt goes in properly
12) Now re-attch the rack. 2 X 15mm bolts and nuts

Some pics of the steering shaft with new giubo.

Attachment 596214

Attachment 596215

Attachment 596216

[pine1000]

That's a good find! Does the Z3 flex disk have that groove in it though?

[saneesh8]

No. Z3 disk is solid. Please see this video that i took some time back.

[pine1000]

Does any part of the shaft extend through the hole in the middle of the giubo?

I have the control arm off of my car, and I think I would have access to cut through the disk with it in place. However, I wouldn't be able to pull it apart if that is necessary.

Thanks

[gmushial]

Does any part of the shaft extend through the hole in the middle of the giubo?

I have the control arm off of my car, and I think I would have access to cut through the disk with it in place. However, I wouldn't be able to pull it apart if that is necessary.

Thanks

Yes, having the LCA off would give you better access... but if you're thinking about replacing the flexdisc: you're going to need the lower half of the column off the car and on a workbench. But to answer your question: yes, there is a pin that does through it so that even if it failed entirely, the column would still stay connected (though with a hell of a slop in it). I would suggest: either a new lower column from bimmer; a used one from eBay; or like Saneesh did - if the slop is in the disc: replace it. Equally, be forewarned: in my case I had both the disc and a ujoint going away that caused the slop. If you have the LCA off and the rack moved forward, then pull the lower half of the column, take a careful look (where you have room), and decide what to do from there.

[bluptgm3]

Ya this is crazy expensive, but the swaged on flex portion is an engineering mandate requirement thru rubber flex stack-up - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_0915

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...y/32311092644/



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gmushial]

Ya this is crazy expensive, but the swaged on flex portion is an engineering mandate requirement thru rubber flex stack-up - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_0915

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...y/32311092644/



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would keep an eye open on eBay... three some years ago about the cheapest used ones to be had were around $75... but about a year ago, when Saneesh was doing his experimenting, I found another one for $35 plus less then $10 shipping... used the first one on my Z, have the second one for when needed... but given the age on our Z's, generally there are parts that when they come available, and there is a chance that I'm going to use them: I snag them and store them [use to look after 4 Z3s (beyond mine) - so had plenty of use for parts... now down to 3, though one I haven't seen in a couple years: so effectively 2]. ;-) ... but as you note: some parts have become crazy expensive, and some have become unavailable... so: when one see one, jump on it and store it.

[pine1000]

My dealer said there are only a few left in the US. So, I went ahead and bit the bullet on a new one. Painfully expensive for what it is, but at least it should last for a long time. Assuming it wasn't manufactured 20 years ago...

I looked at the design on this shaft on E30, Z3, E36, and E46. They refined the design on the E36 and E46 to make the flex disk replaceable (for only $50!). Judging by the E36 & E46 forums this repair is a lot more common on those vehicles because it is so much easier.

[gmushial]

My dealer said there are only a few left in the US. So, I went ahead and bit the bullet on a new one. Painfully expensive for what it is, but at least it should last for a long time. Assuming it wasn't manufactured 20 years ago...

I looked at the design on this shaft on E30, Z3, E36, and E46. They refined the design on the E36 and E46 to make the flex disk replaceable (for only $50!). Judging by the E36 & E46 forums this repair is a lot more common on those vehicles because it is so much easier.

Sounds like they ran another batch... a year plus ago there were none available; then there were a few for around $175; then there were none again... but it sounds like there are at least a few again... of course the other choice would have been used.. though a heads up: lock the steering system down when you do the swap: otherwise you will end up with the steering wheel cocked to the left or right. :-(

[saneesh8]

I replaced only the giubo with the part from E30 in March 2017. So far no issues and my car is driven 30 miles (city). Please see https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1682301-Steering-Guibo-Coupling-p-n-or-where-to-buy&p=29647928#post29647928.

[tommy1394]

AKG's one is for racing only. Seems more harder. Seems IE part is also performance/racing

I checked mine. Joints looks tight and no play.

I am running the AKG part. It feels amazing, don't notice any more vibration than before, although everything else in the car already has polyurethance bushings. I would have no issues recommending this.

[pine1000]

I ended up replacing the entire steering shaft. It was expensive, but worth it. The steering is now sharp with no play on center.

The stock steering coupler has steel cable braided into the rubber. So, even if the rubber completely fails you won't loose all steering control. I doubt that the poly bushings have that.

[gmushial]

I ended up replacing the entire steering shaft. It was expensive, but worth it. The steering is now sharp with no play on center.

The stock steering coupler has steel cable braided into the rubber. So, even if the rubber completely fails you won't loose all steering control. I doubt that the poly bushings have that.

Excellent. :-)