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Thread: roadster rear window install - lessons learned

  1. #26
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    When you replace a window, does it fix that rubber trim around the window edge? My window isnt perfect but I can deal with it. I can not, however, deal with this loose rubber gasket surrounding the window flopping around. If it doesnt come with a window, guess its time for a red top?

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  2. #27
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    Yes. That piece is part of the window. Mine had ripped about 75% off before I changed the window. I will say that I found the areas where it had come off were much more frayed than those where it stayed seated and that made it difficult to get the top under the trim on the new window in those areas -- change it soon.

    -Todd

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokijibber View Post
    Yes. That piece is part of the window. Mine had ripped about 75% off before I changed the window. I will say that I found the areas where it had come off were much more frayed than those where it stayed seated and that made it difficult to get the top under the trim on the new window in those areas -- change it soon.
    Sounds like I should have changed it weeks ago when it was only peeling off over about 2" ...used a powerwasher to clean her the other day and it was moderately succesful at cleaning the car and extremely succsful at removing that rubber trim.

    Ill get on it, thanks

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  4. #29
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    If you don't mind the change from factory, the emiata window does away with the rubber trim and you get a canvas fold instead.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokijibber View Post
    Yes. That piece is part of the window.
    . . .
    -- change it soon.
    Yes, what Todd said. Only gets worse with time.

    fj..

    photo by Gary Glades

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackxs View Post
    When you replace a window, does it fix that rubber trim around the window edge? My window isnt perfect but I can deal with it. I can not, however, deal with this loose rubber gasket surrounding the window flopping around. If it doesnt come with a window, guess its time for a red top?
    Pull it off & discard it. It doesn't look bad missing, & nobody will notice unless you point it out.

  7. #32
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    Are there steps on how to remove the plastic window currently in place or is that also zipped off?

  8. #33
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    Assuming your top is OEM, at the bottom center of the window there is a clip that spans the zipper. If you pry the points up the plate will come off (this is on the inside). Once you remove the clip, the zipper will part and it can be unzipped.Half of the zipper is on the top, half on the window edging.

    fj..

    photo by Gary Glades

  9. #34
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    Since this thread has been revived, I will give a follow up on the contact cement. I stated I had plenty to do the job, but after a few months it has become loose in many places.

    I plan to copy Ralph a bit, stealing this pic from his salvage roadie rebuild thread:


    I am going to mask it similar to this and get some hopefully better quality contact cement and try to seal the heck out of it.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scarceas View Post
    Since this thread has been revived, I will give a follow up on the contact cement. I stated I had plenty to do the job, but after a few months it has become loose in many places.

    I plan to copy Ralph a bit, stealing this pic from his salvage roadie rebuild thread:


    I am going to mask it similar to this and get some hopefully better quality contact cement and try to seal the heck out of it.
    That's exactly what I did. 6 months later, still nice and tight.
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  11. #36
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    You know, it's a shame they don't give you enough to really stick the canvas down, because the emiata contact cement is really good--just the right viscosity to apply easily but not get all over, and very sticky. AutoZone sells a contact cement in a tube that is ok, but just a little thick for spreading. If you haven't ordered the window yet, call emiata (they do answer their phone) and see if you can order an extra tube or two of their cement. I have found (after doing 2 windows now) that it takes two applications to both sides--allow the first to dry beyond tacky and the second revitalizes it and is really sticky when it tacks. Really I think three emiata tubes is the right amount (the AutoZone tube is much bigger).

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    ... Here are some pics of the emiata window...

    So the Emiata window has a wide canvas perimeter trim to capture the edges of the top, instead of the OEM window's narrow black rubber channel? Is this Emiata canvas trim sewed to the window, and does it glue to the top with contact cement? From Emiata's website and eBay ad, it looks like the Emiata canvas trim might only come in black. A wide black canvas border around the window would not look good with my tan top.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    So the Emiata window has a wide canvas perimeter trim to capture the edges of the top, instead of the OEM window's narrow black rubber channel? Is this Emiata canvas trim sewed to the window, and does it glue to the top with contact cement? From Emiata's website and eBay ad, it looks like the Emiata canvas trim might only come in black. A wide black canvas border around the window would not look good with my tan top.
    Looks like this. This is not my car.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #39
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    Was going to buy a used OEM window for around the same price but now I think I'm going to get the emiata window. Thanks a lot!

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z3X2 View Post
    Looks like this. This is not my car.
    That is not bad looking. And I also found photos of an Emiata-type window on a red/tan Z3 like mine:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Z3-M-ROA...50839598053%26
    I thought it looked OK so I have ordered it.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    ... I bought an OEM window and started the install process a week ago, but the window I got was defective in that the zip would not start and the fabric where the zipper attaches was frayed and just came apart on the 2nd try...

    Here is a lessons learned saga.

    In October 2012 I bought a 1997 Z3 with 32,000 pristine, elderly-driven miles. The tan top was in great condition, but the black plastic trim around the window was coming off, and the PO had put glue on both the trim and the top and the window trying to save the trim. I just removed all the trim, and ordered a new OEM window from a well-known vendor.

    All winter I printed installation info and watched videos. In June 2013 the weather reached the 70+ degrees for installation, and I tried to install the OEM window. After a few attempts to start the zipper pull, I had frayed the top's zipper a little, and the window's zipper a lot. Fearing I would ruin the top, I returned the OEM window to the vendor for a partial refund.

    I ordered a window from an eBay vendor, but then realized he was probably re-selling an Emiata window at twice the price. When he could not ship for two weeks, I was able to cancel and get a refund.

    I then ordered an Emiata window, but when it came, it looked so poorly made that I did not try to install it, and returned it for full refund. The Emiata is a crude shop-made item that does not fit well and relies on a wide glued canvas trim that by nature cannot turn the corners and so curls up and fights its glue.
    http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vintagefortytwo/library/BMW%20Z3%20Related/Emiata%20Window?sort=9&page=1

    I then ordered a second OEM window from my first vendor, after they said I could return it if I still could not install it. And sure enough, my wife and I were unable to get the zipper to work. At least this time we got the pull onto the car's zipper, but not onto the window's zipper.

    So I took the Z3 and the new OEM window to the best convertible top shop in our city. The pull was still started on the car's top. But they were not immediately able to start the pull on the window, and did not want to try further. With each try the tab on the zipper on the car's top became more frayed. I had tried with two windows, and now the shop had tried again with the second of the windows. The zipper tab on the car's top was really getting frayed.

    My only recourse now was a new top that included a window. I could have chosen a US-made top with sewn-in window for less. But out of respect for the pristine Z3 and a better fit and seal, I told the shop to order an OEM top which included the OEM window. What started out as loose black trim, ended up with two OEM windows returned at a loss of $150 each, and a new top and window for $1,570.

    The lesson is that even if you are tall and strong and relatively skillful, have done all the research, read all the DIYs, watched a video, and have an assistant, you may not be able to install the OEM rear plastic window. Not once, but twice. And with each try to start the zipper pull, you further ruin the zipper tab on the soft top so that a new top is the only alternative.

    I wish that BMW had designed zippers with metal tabs instead of fabric tabs, so they not fray with each attempt to start zipping.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-18-2013 at 08:31 PM.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Here is a lessons learned saga.

    In October 2012 I bought a 1997 Z3 with 32,000 pristine, elderly-driven miles. The tan top was in great condition, but the black plastic trim around the window was coming off, and the PO had put glue on both the trim and the top and the window trying to save the trim. I just removed all the trim, and ordered a new OEM window from a well-known vendor.

    All winter I printed installation info and watched videos. In June 2013 the weather reached the 70+ degrees for installation, and I tried to install the OEM window. After a few attempts to start the zipper pull, I had frayed the top's zipper a little, and the window's zipper a lot. Fearing I would ruin the top, I returned the OEM window to the vendor for a partial refund.

    I ordered a window from an eBay vendor, but then realized he was probably re-selling an Emiata window at twice the price. When he could not ship for two weeks, I was able to cancel and get a refund.

    I then ordered an Emiata window, but when it came, it looked so poorly made that I did not try to install it, and returned it for full refund. The Emiata is a crude shop-made item that does not fit well and relies on a wide glued canvas trim that by nature cannot turn the corners and so curls up and fights its glue.
    http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vintagefortytwo/library/BMW%20Z3%20Related/Emiata%20Window?sort=9&page=1

    I then ordered a second OEM window from my first vendor, after they said I could return it if I still could not install it. And sure enough, my wife and I were unable to get the zipper to work. At least this time we got the pull onto the car's zipper, but not onto the window's zipper.

    So I took the Z3 and the new OEM window to the best convertible top shop in our city. The pull was still started on the car's top. But they were not immediately able to start the pull on the window, and did not want to try further. With each try the tab on the zipper on the car's top became more frayed. I had tried with two windows, and now the shop had tried again with the second of the windows. The zipper tab on the car's top was really getting frayed.

    My only recourse now was a new top that included a window. I could have chosen a US-made top with sewn-in window for less. But out of respect for the pristine Z3 and a better fit and seal, I told the shop to order an OEM top which included the OEM window. What started out as loose black trim, ended up with two OEM windows returned at a loss of $150 each, and a new top and window for $1,570.

    The lesson is that even if you are tall and strong and relatively skillful, have done all the research, read all the DIYs, watched a video, and have an assistant, you may not be able to install the OEM rear plastic window. Not once, but twice. And with each try to start the zipper pull, you further ruin the zipper tab on the soft top so that a new top is the only alternative.

    I wish that BMW had designed zippers with metal tabs instead of fabric tabs, so they not fray with each attempt to start zipping.
    I had this same experience with the OEM window, but after I returned it I went ahead with the emiata window. I know it looks funky out of the box, but mine (and I have done two now in two different cars) came out perfect. The trim looks like it won't conform to the corners and will fight its glue, but that is not the end result--the trim lays down flat. The advantage to the emiata from my perspective is the zipper tabs, the ease of starting the zipper pull, and the plastic--I have two years on one and a year on the other and both still look great.







  18. #43
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    I should have given the $85 Emiata a chance, even if it meant I could not return it. And if the zipper would not start, or the glue was a mess, or the trim didn't cover the corners or lie down, at least I would have made the effort before buying a new top.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Here is a lessons learned saga.

    In October 2012 I bought a 1997 Z3 with 32,000 pristine, elderly-driven miles. The tan top was in great condition, but the black plastic trim around the window was coming off, and the PO had put glue on both the trim and the top and the window trying to save the trim. I just removed all the trim, and ordered a new OEM window from a well-known vendor.

    All winter I printed installation info and watched videos. In June 2013 the weather reached the 70+ degrees for installation, and I tried to install the OEM window. After a few attempts to start the zipper pull, I had frayed the top's zipper a little, and the window's zipper a lot. Fearing I would ruin the top, I returned the OEM window to the vendor for a partial refund.

    I ordered a window from an eBay vendor, but then realized he was probably re-selling an Emiata window at twice the price. When he could not ship for two weeks, I was able to cancel and get a refund.

    I then ordered an Emiata window, but when it came, it looked so poorly made that I did not try to install it, and returned it for full refund. The Emiata is a crude shop-made item that does not fit well and relies on a wide glued canvas trim that by nature cannot turn the corners and so curls up and fights its glue.
    http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vint...?sort=9&page=1

    I then ordered a second OEM window from my first vendor, after they said I could return it if I still could not install it. And sure enough, my wife and I were unable to get the zipper to work. At least this time we got the pull onto the car's zipper, but not onto the window's zipper.

    So I took the Z3 and the new OEM window to the best convertible top shop in our city. The pull was still started on the car's top. But they were not immediately able to start the pull on the window, and did not want to try further. With each try the tab on the zipper on the car's top became more frayed. I had tried with two windows, and now the shop had tried again with the second of the windows. The zipper tab on the car's top was really getting frayed.

    My only recourse now was a new top that included a window. I could have chosen a US-made top with sewn-in window for less. But out of respect for the pristine Z3 and a better fit and seal, I told the shop to order an OEM top which included the OEM window. What started out as loose black trim, ended up with two OEM windows returned at a loss of $150 each, and a new top and window for $1,570.

    The lesson is that even if you are tall and strong and relatively skillful, have done all the research, read all the DIYs, watched a video, and have an assistant, you may not be able to install the OEM rear plastic window. Not once, but twice. And with each try to start the zipper pull, you further ruin the zipper tab on the soft top so that a new top is the only alternative.

    I wish that BMW had designed zippers with metal tabs instead of fabric tabs, so they not fray with each attempt to start zipping.
    Ugh... seriously? What a mess.

    -Todd

  20. #45
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    Great Thread! Thanks for all the helpful hints, and follow up.

    Just ordered an emiata window, the price of the OEM window has become ridiculous, and I never liked the plastic bead of the OEM window.

    I will be sure to add any issues and/or success.
    Last edited by ZGator; 07-25-2013 at 08:25 PM.

    “Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    I should have given the $85 Emiata a chance, even if it meant I could not return it. And if the zipper would not start, or the glue was a mess, or the trim didn't cover the corners or lie down, at least I would have made the effort before buying a new top.
    Yeah, at $85 versus $1500+ I think it would have been prudent to give the $85 emiata window a shot at the very least. If you didnt like it then you could have returned it or bit the cost. $1500 is a huge portion of these car's actual worth nowadays. OEM windows were available on eBay for under $200 last year. Not sure their current cost but I am sure it has gone up and will continue to do so.

    I also want to mention a friend of mine went with a third party window, not sure if it was emiata or not, but we had it installed and it looked nice. Sold the car to a friend of his in Canada, then when he showed the owner how to put the top down, the window just cracked in half as the top retracted! The cold made it so brittle that it didnt bend at all! So I know at least for me, I will stick with OEM. Be careful to those of you who live in cold climates!!

    This thread makes me feel kind of dumb though, as there was a brand new OEM Z3 top (just the fabric with window) for sale near me for $250 last year... I should have scooped it up. Maybe could have helped you or someone else save $1300. Hindsight is always 20/20 I guess

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  22. #47
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    My experience with the emiata window was a good one. Now a month later in some triple digit heat the window looks even better settled in. My advice is to tape the canvas trim very carefully and completely. Also tape the top very well just to where the trim would lie on it. This will minimize the amount of contact cement overage because you need to be liberal with the contact cement. Make sure your first coat dries the apply a second coat prior to sticking the trim down, letting it cure before setting the trim down. Also be sure to carefully trim from the plastic window flashing that is under the trim, it can be irregular and it should parallel the trim but doesn't in some places.
    Last edited by Allucz3; 07-26-2013 at 12:34 AM.

  23. #48
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    After buying three windows, an OEM, an Emiata and another OEM, and then hearing the shop say they could not get the zipper started on the last OEM, I was fed up with windows. I figured the zipper tab on the soft top had been ruined by all the tries, and any more windows would be unsuccessful.
    I was too turned off by the crudeness of the Emiata to even try it when I had it:
    http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vint...?sort=9&page=1
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-26-2013 at 07:43 AM.

  24. #49
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    Impressive write-ups. Great thread.
    01 M S54 Estoril Coupe (Fun)16 Mini Clubman S(Daily)03 325i (Wifes Car)Your never further away from oblivion than a distracted soccer mom in a SUV.

  25. #50
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    It's part of the window. Mine came off also. Warning here, water will leak through eventually

    - - - Updated - - -

    Mine was a b#t@h to get started on the zipper. I trimmed it a little and then took a lighter to stop the fray. It worked fine. Those metal clips that come with the OEM window, I did not use the last one, I stitched mine with black nylon thread.

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