There's another link that uses a 19MM?
thanks
Just did this. Noticeable indeed.
Just did this to my E46 (M54B30 motor, similar to E39 530i). Thank you for the DIY and photos. Too early to say if it helps. My new spring was 1.5mm or 2mm longer than the old spring. I used a deep 32mm impact socket that was full diameter all the way (as opposed to getting narrower at the ratchet connection end) and it made it very difficult because it was hitting one of the A/C lines. Would have been much easier if I'd had a normal 32mm socket or a deep one that necked down at the ratchet end. Also in the end I moved the washer fluid tank out of the way to get more working space because my non-flex ratchet handle kept hitting the washer reservoir. Not sure if A/C lines or washer tank would get in the way on the E39.
I did also see other DIYs or links specifying different socket sizes such as 17mm, 19mm, or 27mm, but it appears those are for other BMW motors, not the M54.
Last edited by LivesNearCostco; 07-23-2013 at 12:33 PM.
Do you have to have the oil emptied from the engine to perform this repair? Would love to do this, but I just changed my oil yesterday and don't want to drain it for a while. Thanks!
No.
1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i
No problemo
1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i
Seems easy enough. Good post, thanks!
So what part actually fails when they do fail? Is it the outer aluminum part or the spring? I'm only asking b/c there's really no point in replacing only the spring and washer if that's not the part that fails first. I'm only asking the question, I am not sure how these fail when they do.
Last edited by bimmerlova; 09-16-2013 at 10:58 AM.
2001 BMW 530i Sport v6 Automatic, 77k miles, Royal Red Metallic
The tensioner keeps tension on the chain guide. As the tension in the tensioner gets softer, less tension on the chain guide means the chain is no slapping against the chaing guide a little more. This can lead to the material that the chain rides against wearing & chipping. Once chipping of the chain guide material starts, it can cause worse chipping & then the chain is really slapping against the aluminum of the rail. Enough of that & the chain can break. On the I6 (from what I've read above) that won't necesarily cause catostraphic engine failure like the V8 (an interference engine = bent valves), but that broken chain can chew up engine covers & such.
So, as the spring in the tensioner gets less "springy", bad things can happen. Especially considering the cost of replacing the spring.
<== Steptronic Sealbeach740
2000 740i sport: 74k Green/Tan chrome MPars, clear corners, quad brake lights, AIC hi-beams, Hoen fogs, 16x9 screen, MKIV, TFT LCD screen in back, license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, iPod audio/video (CDC/iPod audio switching, iPod video on 16x9 screen), Basslink, gauge rings, ///M pedals, switched steptronic +/- shifting mode, E46 paddle shifter steering wheel, Dinan engine & tranny software upgrade, DDEs controlled via Euro fog light switch, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, windows up/sunroof close via remote.
2003 540i sport: 81k, Sterling grey/grey, MKIV Nav, PDC & CWP - Added license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, paddle shift steering wheel, windows up/sunroof close via remote, Akebono's, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, quad brake lights, iPod audio via AUX mode/video via 16x9 screen, BMW TV tuner, ///M pedals & gauge rings.
So this is definitely suggested maintenance for the m62's? Where about on the 4.4 is the spring and housing located?
my signature? hmm...
But now for something a bit different as to what you guys are used to, I have an e39 with the m51 engine... I guess they have a similar setup as the m50/m52/m54?
The car has covered just short of 250.000 miles with the same engine, so I guess the spring isn't doing too much anymore.
'99 e39 530dA T - current
'01 e46 320i 2.2 T - sold | '98 e39 525tds T - R.I.P. | '94 e34 525iA T - sold | '96 e36 323i coupe - sold | '87 e32 735i (manual/m30) - sold | '88 e34 524td - sold
I replaced my spring about 10K ago. Seemed to have better and quieter and less
start up rattle. Just last week I bought another new spring and a new piston.
Interestingly enough, the spring with less than a year service was noticeably shorter.
The new piston was installed along with the new piston.
Removal of the old piston showed some scoring and wear. I did not replace the cylinder.
I had the car out today and was amazed on how smooth the engine was.
Great power and absolute rock steady idle. I had to look down at the tach to see
if the engine was running. I can't absolutely attribute the new spring and piston to the
engine feel, but it sure is running great (today
I will always own a BMW.
Thanks for posting this info about the tensioner spring.
Based on this thread I did the spring replacement on a 528 with 139k miles with great results. Spring was about 4 to 5mm short to the new one. Rock steady idle and no noise at start up
Thx again
Just did my tensioner tonight. The old one was about an inch shorter than the new one and it was seized up and providing no tension. The new one works great and fixed my startup noise. Thanks everyone.
How does this tensioner come apart to replace the spring??
I don't think the spring is available as a separate part - it's included as part of a new tensioner. But to answer your question, it just pulls apart. No tools or special techniques are needed.
1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i
I was able to buy just the spring from the dealership. Like $8 or something.
This sounds amazing because I was quoted $5000 to do the "FIX".
Just did this DIY on my M54B30
For the record, this is what my old spring (left) compared to the new (right) looked like:
Note that the ruler is in centimeter, not inch!
I pretty much followed OPs instruction but also removed the fan housing (just one torx and a clip) and disconnected the outtake magnet valve of the dual Vanos (just unclip the connector to protect it from - possible - damage) to get some additional space.
Furthermore i used a breaker bar instead of a wobble to loosen the tensioner.
From here on unscrew the tensioner by hand (use some paper towels to protect your AC compressor from the oil leaking out of the chain housing, which shouldn't be to much but still)
Once removed, disassemble and clean the tensioner parts, replace the spring, replace the aluminum gasket (IMPORTANT: make sure to remove the old gasket if it sticks to the chain housing, like mine did!)
I also added some engine oil (Motul) in the screwing/upper part of the tensioner prior to assembling it, just enough so it doesn't sip out of the side holes.
This way you won't start with a completely empty tensioner on first engine start.
Then install everything in reverse.
As the new spring is considerably longer you will need too use some force to get the tensioner back in, so push and screw at the same time till the thread bites.
Fasten the tensioner with 70NM (per OP, dunno if its right but the markings i put on the tensioner and chain housing prior to removing it pretty much aligned that way)
Clean up any possible oil, reconnect the magnet valve, reinstall the electric fan and check you oil level (depending on how much you lost during removal, better safe than sorry)
TL;DR: Took roughly 20 mins will taking it slow, and only cost me 4€ for the spring and gasket (from BMW)
Has anyone had trouble with getting the correct size gasket ring? Pn 07119963418. I picked it up from my dealer since it was a buck and in stock. It was smaller than the one I pulled off my tensioner, as in the photo. The parts guy assured me that I had the correct part. He rattled off some measurements that his book told him for that pn, but did not verify it against the actual part. What good was that! I can't remember the size he gave, but I want to say 28 and 32mm. ID and OD. I got home and mic'd it at 24 and 22. So now I have to drive back in with my greasy tensioner and show him, all for him to tell me he doesn't know.
The gasket should be A26X31-AL (inner x outer diameter in millimeter and made of aluminium) per catalog. Just measure it. The part number is right.
This was for an m52 engine correct? The tensioner is tightened to 25nm as well right?
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