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Thread: Timing Chain Tensioner Spring Replacement for i6

  1. #1
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    Timing Chain Tensioner Spring Replacement for i6

    So, after 8 years and reading some pretty nasty stories about the cousin v8 chain tensioner and related guide rails, I decided to change the spring of the chain tensioner.



    You need the coil spring p/n 11411706809 and the aluminum crush washer p/n 07119963418 (gasket ring).
    The procedure is trivial at best. I did it while doing the oil change. The Chain tensioner is located on the passenger side, in front of the engine behind the air check valve:



    Stuff some paper towel and rags - there are electrical wires underneath, and oil will come out:



    You need a 32mm socket or a 1 1/4" socket. They will both fit. The tensioner is at an angle, and you might not be able to remove it with a straight extension (a wrench "might" work, but bear in mind you deal with aluminum here), so here is what I used:



    Out it comes:







    The gasket might get stuck on the engine. Make sure you don't leave it there.
    Here is a side-by-side of the old vs the new spring. You can see the old one is slightly compressed:



    Buttoned everything up, and tightened it with 25 Nm. EDIT: tightening torque for M54 engines is 70 Nm as per TIS
    After starting the car, the assembly will need to be filled with engine oil. I was actually amazed how quiet the car is now. As mentioned, I had no codes and no driveability issues, but the car sure sounds like new now!!!
    Last edited by Doru; 07-04-2011 at 01:55 PM.
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Great news! Or is it placebo effect? JK. Thanks Doru, I will be doing both mine and the wife's next week, if the parts ever get here from Autohaus of AZ.

  4. #4
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    So all you need to replace is the spring and washer?
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  5. #5
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    So all you need to replace is the spring and washer?
    It comes as a complete unit. He just took it apart to show what the guts look like. I did this and the upper tensioner on my E36 M3 when I rebuilt the VANOS. It really is as simple as it looks.

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
    It comes as a complete unit. He just took it apart to show what the guts look like. I did this and the upper tensioner on my E36 M3 when I rebuilt the VANOS. It really is as simple as it looks.

    Are you sure? The spring listed as a separate part and can be ordered as such.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaltimoreBimmer View Post
    So all you need to replace is the spring and washer?
    That's all I did. I posted the p/n also to make sure it's clear. You don't need anything else.
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

  8. #8
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    I've never seen a thread where the tensioner failed on the 6-cylinders. Not saying it isn't good to do preventive maintenance, but...

  9. #9
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    Are you sure? The spring listed as a separate part and can be ordered as such.
    It must be available both ways. I ordered part #11317838675 which is the complete assembly.

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by newton22 View Post
    I've never seen a thread where the tensioner failed on the 6-cylinders. Not saying it isn't good to do preventive maintenance, but...
    Yes it has failed, however, these I6s are not interference engines and when the tensioner fails normally it just snaps and you have to tow the car. Not "my engine is destroyed" as in M62s.

    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
    It must be available both ways. I ordered part #11317838675 which is the complete assembly.
    This is what is listed at realoem.com with that part #. Are you sure it is for E39s?? From the picture it also looks substantially different. I think you ordered the wrong part pal:

    E36 M3 Convertible, S52, USA, AUTO (BK03) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    E36 M3 Convertible, S52, USA, MANUAL (BK93) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    E36 M3 Coupe, S52, USA, MANUAL (BG93) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    E36 M3 Sedan, S52, USA, AUTO (CD03) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    E36 M3 Sedan, S52, USA, MANUAL (CD93) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    E46 M3 Convertible, S54, USA (BR93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 Coupe, S54, USA (BL93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 Convertible, S54, Europe (BR91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 Convertible, S54, Europe, RHD (BR92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 Coupe, S54, Europe (BL91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 Coupe, S54, Europe, RHD (BL92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 CSL Coupe, S54, Europe (BL95) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E46 M3 CSL Coupe, S54, Europe, RHD (BL96) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E85 Z4 M3.2 Roadster, S54, USA (BT93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E85 Z4 M3.2 Roadster, S54, Europe (BT91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E85 Z4 M3.2 Roadster, S54, Europe, RHD (BT92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E86 Z4 M3.2 Coupe, S54, USA (DU93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E86 Z4 M3.2 Coupe, S54, Europe (DU91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    E86 Z4 M3.2 Coupe, S54, Europe, RHD (DU92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Coupe, S52, USA (CM93) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    Z3 Z3 M Roadster, S52, USA (CK93) : Timing - Timing Chain Lower P
    Z3 Z3 M Coupe, S54, USA (CN93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Roadster, S54, USA (CL93) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Coupe, S54, Europe (CN91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Coupe, S54, Europe, RHD (CN92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Roadster, S54, Europe (CL91) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Z3 Z3 M Roadster, S54, Europe, RHD (CL92) : Timing and valve train-timing chain
    Last edited by crdiscoverer; 07-04-2011 at 01:37 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by crdiscoverer View Post
    Yes it has failed, however, these I6s are not interference engines and when the tensioner fails normally it just snaps and you have to tow the car. Not "my engine is destroyed" as in M62s.
    A failed tensioner won't destroy an M62, my tensioner failed in the compressed state and was barely noticeable. I think m62's only have a problem if it's left in place for extended periods of time, allowing the chain to slap around at start up and break off pieces of the guides. I replaced it fairly quickly and the engine runs perfect with very little valve train noise and zero startup rattle.
    M62L76

  12. #12
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    this guy is genius

    today replaced chain tensioners on 2 I6 cars, with right tool its 20 min for both , dealer price is 2.50 each
    my springs were shorter on 2MM

    no more "gzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" on a cold start
    better idle
    engine is more quiet !

    good job Doru !

    Last edited by champaign777; 03-13-2012 at 12:52 AM.

  13. #13
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    I'm seeing #11411706809 for the spring. Is this correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by newton22 View Post
    I'm seeing #11411706809 for the spring. Is this correct?
    Should be. That's the one for my M52.
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  15. #15
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    All right, I just ordered the parts for my M52! I can confirm it's even easier to replace since you don't need all those angled extensions for the wrench. There is plenty of room around the nut. I will report back since I occasionally get the tapping noise at startup.
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  16. #16
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    Did it over the weekend. Took all of five min. A but more quiet.
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  17. #17
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    Where can I find these parts?

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    Why not replace the piston as well (item #12). There's bound to be a little slop after, say, 75000 miles.

    What say you, Doru?




  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham E39 528i View Post
    Why not replace the piston as well (item #12). There's bound to be a little slop after, say, 75000 miles.

    What say you, Doru?
    I thought so too. But I couldn't tell the difference between old and new slop, of course I left the new one in there.

  21. #21
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    Replaced my spring yesterday. Boy was the old one compressed: about 5mm shorter.

    I already notice a reduced clatter in cold starts. Also replaced the plugs.
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  22. #22
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    I did mine about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice any change whatsoever.

    I didn't even feel a placebo improvement.





  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham E39 528i View Post
    I did mine about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice any change whatsoever.

    I didn't even feel a placebo improvement.

    We can fix this.
    Now.
    Pretend you didn't do it.
    Pretend it never happened.
    Now.
    Bam.
    Your car will feel a change, quieter and smoother.
    Done.
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    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  24. #24
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    Just installed new spring today and there is definitely a noticeable difference . Crush gasket and spring was $6.91 from the local dealer including taxes.

  25. #25
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    Did you guys fill it up with oil and then install it, or just install it w/o adding oil?

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