Are my smoothness readings that are kinda high, bank 2? Cylinders 5 6 7 8???
Last edited by purplecty; 01-26-2012 at 12:51 PM.
I think, fuel pressure effects on all cylinders, not only on one bank. I find one guy with the same problem like mine. The problem was in camshaft timing. He did adjusting camshaft timing two times, but he didn't use special tool for chain tension (tools for crankshaft and camshaft he has). Only on third truying and only with tool for chain tension he has fixed his problem... I made my timing exactly the same (without tool for chain). v8 motor is very sensetive to right timing. Sometimes the bucket tappets are the reason of the problem with shaked idle
Last edited by camobap; 01-26-2012 at 02:24 PM.
Same as i was thinking. My problem was only on driver side mainly on sylinder 6 if i remember correctly.
When I was pulling my injectors out I removed vacuum hose from fuel regulator and fuel came pouring out.
After replacing regulator car runs smoothly and emissions dropped to normal.
Pulled the vacuum from osv to fuel pressure regulator and no change in idle... Is idle supposed to go up or down?
Last edited by purplecty; 02-09-2012 at 06:01 PM.
It's meant to change that's for sure! To check if it was the PCV or the regulator that was faulty, I used a syringe that fitted the vacuum pipe. Pulling the plunger OUT should make the engine drop in revs - if there is no change then the regulator is not working:
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Well the short thicker vacuum hose connects to another smaller/thinner one that runs under the car on passenger side to pressure regulator... I will have to get under there to check the regulator. I can feel the air coming out of PCV/OSV, but did not notice any change in idle. Is it a really noticeable change?
i think, you can see result of this method using inpa, in live data of lambdas.
Purplecty, did you end up replacing your fuel pressure regulator? If so, did it correct the "needed air i.s. controler" reading?
I'm pretty sure I'm having the same problem; INPA screen images attached. I'd really like to think I'm finally at the end of a long-string of problems that were causing codes 40/45 (cats) (P0420/P0430).
So far...the cats are both new (Magnaflow direct fit-OEM too expensive)...the O2 sensors, all four, are new Bosch heated units, the CCV/intake cover is new, and the little hose connecting my fuel pressure regulator to the CCV is new. There are no vacuum leaks in the CCV; checked using brake c;eaner spray.
The screen images attached show the following:
All connected means that both the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the vacuum cap on the driver's side top port of the CCV are connected (no vacuum leaks).
The FPR disconnected image shows the MAF and "needed air i.s. controler" reading with BOTH the fuel pressure regulator AND the vacuum cap off the CCV. Funny, that with a big vacuum leak at the back of the engine, both the MAF and needed air reading go DOWN.
The A1 FPR disconnected one cap document shows the numbers with a vacuum cap on one port of the CCV and the fuel pressure regulator disconnected.
I also attached the image with the analog readings #2. It appears as though the O2 sensors are operating completely normally!
Well over $2K already spent trying to STOP the P0420/P0430....hoping I'm almost there.
Many thanks
b52murph
Last edited by b52murph; 08-22-2012 at 10:41 PM.
I see no pics...
Yes
Hi everybody,
could you please take a look at my INPA readings and tell me what am I dealing with?
Lambda going UP and DOWN:
//imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/50045678.jpg/
//imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/95541393.jpg/
Cylinders:
//imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/67069535.jpg/
maybe I should swap coils? Because replacing spark plugs is not an option for me, heard lots of horror stories about broken spark plugs, debris falling in to the engine, 4k repair etc. Especially if your car has a high millage like mine 115k and spark plugs have never been changed there is a big chance that they are going to break but changing coil won't hurt. How do it figure out which cylinder is the one by the way if I'm sitting behind steering wheel for example? Is it like 8 (closest to me), 7, 6, 5 (headlight), then to the right headlight 4, 3, 2, 1 passenger side?
And is it ok if AIR INTAKE TEMP is 99.5 and Coolant Temp is 156.2?
P.S. Couldn't post images the right way because I'm a new member... Thanks
Last edited by David38; 09-17-2012 at 12:36 AM.
Hi David,
What exactly is the problem?
Lambda's should go up and down constantly and I think it's the speed at which they do that to give you an idea if they're worn out or not. The faster the better.
Thank you, will try!
Guys, i hope that i've fixed the problem. The problem is in timing chains. I've turn the exaust camshaft a little in the second head, and values now looks much better. But not ideal. I think after replacing timing units it will work pretty.
So was the fuel pressure regulator the culprit here?
In the beginning was the decision to be.....
Not for me
No since then my engine has started makind noise upon accelerating so im not chasing that anymore...
Any updates?
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
Damn. I can not adjust my fuel ratio.
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
anyone know a guide where i can learn how to do these tests to find these values? so far i have only gotten how to read and clear my codes with inpa
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