E38 Live data with INPA

[sigtwenty]

Weird, mine were all 60-65 except for cylinder 4 and 5 that were over 100-150.

bump....why would 2 cyls be a bit higher than the rest? i see that they are in range but is there a reason why these 2 are higher than the rest? what would the cause be of these 2 being higher? lazy coil packs? bad crank sensor? my maf is new, and amazingly these readings are the same regardless of new or old maf, so old maf was fine im guessing.

i reset my adaptations, same result overall.

[AquilaBMW]

I am glad this thread was brought back. I need to learn about this too. I am getting misfiring issues on my E38 M62. When I checked these values, the one with the highest range was Cylinder #8 - reading was bouncing up to 187+/-, the lowest reading was about 100+/-.

What can that mean? What should I be looking for? Could this me MAF issues? I did switch out the MAF for a replacement from a trouble free engine.

Could it just be spark plugs, boots, gaskets, vacuum, etc.? Any ideas please?

Cheers!

[purplecty]

As close to Zero as possible. Uniformity.

If one is high, like 80 and the rest oscillate around 3-10, I would look at spark plug. (oily coil boot, etc)

This...

[IcemanBHE]

I have a PDF of how this is calculated...

Basically, its looking at the speed of the crankshaft microseconds after a cylinder fires.

When a cylinder doesnt speed the crank uniformly, it raises the value.

So could be plugs, boots, wiring, fuel injector, etc etc etc

[kimokk]

You know what when i first start her up she does have a little shake to her... i guess she can run smoother... maybe after i cleaned my k&n filter it messed my MAF up? i didnt use too much oil tho... but i did notice the difference a little while after cleaning the k&n air filter a few months ago... to reset adaptive values do i just clear codes in dme then reset values and then clear codes right after to avoid brick mode?

I never saw any confirmation on how to reset adaptations. Is this the correct procedure when using INPA?

[Oday0111]

Lol that's wild my car hits 2000 on cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8 ,

the odd cylinders stay below 500.

But cylinders 1 and 5 stay in the low 100s!!!!

My vanos is bad but like should I be worried ?

The car seems to run "ok" at idle but when thrown ik not reverse it starts to shake really bad.

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[purplecty]

I'd say inspect spark plugs, coils and boots, injectors, wiring or intake manifold gaskets or some sort of vacuum leak somewhere that a smoke should detec...

[Oday0111]

I'd say inspect spark plugs, coils and boots, injectors, wiring or intake manifold gaskets or some sort of vacuum leak somewhere that a smoke should detec...

Lol yeah has to be something like that was funny is I just replaced all the gaskets and o rings on the intake manifold, even injector o rings.

Throttle body gasket,
Replaced ccv and gasket for that.
I even bought a used set of injectors and cleaned them and tested them.

New Ngk spark plugs

New bosch boots

New valve cover gaskets.

I did alot lmao. The car still smokes too but only on start up. (The oil separator under the timing cover probs bad, gonna do catch can install just to see what happens.)

Did have alot of oil inside the manifold before I changed everything but I thought it was the ccv that's why I replaced that.

It did leave a spark plug loose but tightened it up.

Yesterday took car on a short drive to see what would happen. Started missing on cylinder 5. Tested the coil

Seemed finicky so just bought a new one and installed it.

Havnt taken it on a drive yet(misfire happens upon acceleration sounds normal on idle)

But I'm gonna take off the whole intake manifold again today and inspect my injector o rings and that jazz.

Had a code on inpa saying something about a motorlifter code ?? Was in german so cant remember.

Thanks for the fast reply Purplecty.

I'll try out what you said and inspect for vacuum leaks maybe even go pick up a smoke tester today

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[purplecty]

Was the CCV an original bmw part? Aftermarket ones are known to fail immediately...

[Oday0111]

Was the CCV an original bmw part? Aftermarket ones are known to fail immediately...

Yes it is. I only like to buy parts that are oem bmw parts from ecs tuning.

The gaskets are all oem bmw also because that's how deep I go the only thing that's not oem bmw is the plugs , and the valve cover gaskets (victor reins) I even torqued down the intake gaskets to torque specs(Bentley manual specs)to be sure they werent loose but not to tight

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[Oday0111]

Theres only a couple parts that I know I can get away with not using oem bmw parts (OEM so expensive) but most important parts like the ccv is bmw oem

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[Oday0111]

I will note that I also replaced the valve covers like the whole cover on both sides with x5 valve covers. The x5s I know have a external ccv system instead of internal like the 540s and 740s. So theres that little hole on the back side of the driver side valve cover. I plugged it up with a rubber cap that fit perfect.

Could it be possible that the rubber cap isn't tight enough and causing a vaccum leak?


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[purplecty]

Well did you have the issue before the job? If not, Anything during the job is a possible cause...

[clarkitect]

Make sure all the injectors connections are secure. It's easy to have a few loose when you reinstall those electrical boxes.

[Oday0111]

Well did you have the issue before the job? If not, Anything during the job is a possible cause...

Lololol it's a long long long story like long. So basically my car died about a year ago while driving. The car sat and I did a bunch of stuff to revive it. (The valve covers where leaking oil really bad thought fixed all that, didnt fix the crank no start issue I had) rebuilt the manifold and ALL the gaskets ccv all of it (because it was soaked with oil) long story short I ended up replacing the started and the keys (ews and 2 new keys ) because the starter became burnt up (my fault ) and the ews burned up (the original reason why it died on me keys lost connection car freaked out and missed. Trans failsafe and engine failsafe code. Turned car off and tried to start again. Never started again until I replaced the keys) it was a major head ache. (Re sealed up the transmission) but basically before the car died on me it ran fine. A little smoke on start up and would run like a top no issues it seemed besides the vanos knock. Planned on doing the ccv to help with the smoke before the car died.

Then the car died.... and I was like welp might as well do everything I planned on doing while it's not moving.

But yeah no it didnt smoke up like it does now,
It never ever miss fired on me.

It runs the same as it did before on idle.

It's when you accelerate past 3,000 then the CEL flashes then eventually it will go solid , meaning the ECU starts cutting fuel off to the cylinder missing.

It's only cylinder 5 that did it.

Replaced the coil yesterday but havnt gone and drove it yet.

The main thing I'm concerned with is the miss so that's why I pulled out the live data on inpa.



Then found this forum

And was baffled because cylinders 1 and 5 on the data where the only cylinders really close to 0 on the value scale. So I thought those cylinders where needing to be in the 2000's like most of the other cylinders. But seems to be other way around according to this forum

Cylinder 5 and 1 are actin how they should and 2,4,6,8 are way out of wack according to the scale.

Sorry for the long write up and confusing wording.


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[Oday0111]

Make sure all the injectors connections are secure. It's easy to have a few loose when you reinstall those electrical boxes.

See I thought that too. My boxes are a little broken but not terribly broke . I double checked and gave each one a hard firm push. No change.

When I take off the manifold tonight I'll make sure when I go back together to clean up the connectors and the injectors, make sure the o rings are seated in all the way. All that stuff

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[Oday0111]

I did a bore wash thinking I flooded the engine. Only did that after I replaced the VC gaskets, plugs n boots. Just throw that out there to. The bore wash didnt help anything btw (obviously. Keys were the issue)


OH and the motor has like around 170,000 miles on it.

The body however has 260,000 miles and I think the cats are the stock ones that came with the car. I remember reading something about the cats causing misfire if clogged?

My car has the manifold cats then the secondary cats. After that its straight pipes. No Y muffler or tail muffler
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[Oday0111]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

My original forum that I started when the car failed has alot of extra info in there but I'm going to try what was suggested and make sure my injectors and gaskets are all good.

Check for vacuum leaks and that such

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[purplecty]

Always a story

[Oday0111]

Always a story

very true always Is

but thanks purplecty for your responses.

I'll pull the plugs too to see if there f**ked

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[Timm]

I would say you have excess exhaust back-pressure causing the problems - and that means blocked cats. The way forward is to measure the pressure at the Lambda ports.....

[Oday0111]

I would say you have excess exhaust back-pressure causing the problems - and that means blocked cats. The way forward is to measure the pressure at the Lambda ports.....

Tha I you Timm. I'll inspect that also tonight. Appreciate your response

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[purplecty]

Forgot about this too. Timm is probably spot on as usual!

[Oday0111]

Forgot about this too. Timm is probably spot on as usual!

Hes really is !!! Like his knowledge is so valued!!

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[Oday0111]

Update:

Sorry for the lack of updates just always busy.

I was gonna try what Timm said but I dont have the propper tool to measure the pressure properly. I did bang on the cats and look at them visually and they seem to be alright.

No rattles nothing along the lines of that. Looking at getting the right tools to measure the pressure to give yall a factual measurement.

But in the meantime I did install my oil catch can along with other things. Luckily the oil catch can help with a lot of the oil in the intake and now the car smokes a lot less.

The oil catch can didn't change anything in the missfire region. It's still misfires on cylinder 5 When the car is in drive and you accelerate past 2000 rpm. Does not do it while sitting idle you can read the engine as much as you want and it does not trigger the CEL light.

I decided to do a smoothness test on it again since the oil wasnt all over the lifters now.

My results:



I still have the code for cylinder 5 missfire in inpa. On the smoothness test the cylinder that's farthest from zero is cylinder 6. All thr other cylinders will get close to zero but 6 will not get below 500.

I replaced all the spark plugs again just to be safe with no change.

I checked for a vacuum leak around the intake gaskets and o rings for the injectors and didnt get a surge or nothing like that (sprayed starting fluid.)

I proceeded to remove the rail to inspect the injectors and the o rings seem alot bigger then what I remember could just be me.

After swapping out cylinder 6 with a diffrent injector and making sure the o rings were dry I placed the rail back on. It was super super hard to get the rail on this time around vs the first time.

I'm starting to think I didnt seat the rail correctly the first time.

Before I just through the rail on gave it a hard push and put the bolts in. Looked like I had the injectors seated right but who knows.

Now when I tried going in the o rings seemed to fat to want to set into the manifold.

I ended up taking all inextod off the rail and one by one set them into there whole. After that I set the rail down onto the injectors. Clipped the clips all good. Everything seemed seated. But for some reason some injectors are father down into the manifold then others! I'll have to post pic of this.

I'm going to finish up tonight pl putting the electrical all back together , give it a start and see what happens.

P.S. after the oil catch can install I noticed gas shooting out of the exhaust. Car is gargling. Deff to much fuel in the cylinders

The can isnt really catching oil either... its catching water and the milky white stuff. Smells like nastey gas too.

The oil has gas getting into it also. [Magicly getting more oil on dipstick and smells like gas] I'm really thinking the injector was stuck open on 6 or had a vacuum leak on the o ring.

I'll give results tonight

Sorry for the long write up. I just love giving every detail

If you have questions please ask. I took lots of pics of the whole process. thanks yall for responses.

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