Thank you. Very helpful information.
Out of all the E39 conversion threads, you were the only person I found that explained how to recode the instrument cluster. A real benefit to us following the path.
In hopes of similarities, I've pulled info from E36-LS conversion threads. One very detailed thread discussed cruise control, though with stalk controls. Here's the info from the post..
QUOTE...
In finishing up the GM Cruise Control module wiring to the BMW, learned a few things that I thought I'd pass on.
You can retain the BMW cruise stalk with the GM cruise control. I close to wire mine as close as possible to the BMW depictions of the stalk. Pull towards the drives is decel, (and also is cruise set), Push away is accel, up or down is disengage cruise, (wired in series with the clutch and brake switches that directly disengage cruise), push the stalk into the steering column is resume.
Pedal switches. This is where the GM and BMW don't plug and play. GM utilizes 2 brake switches and 2 clutch switches for its cruise, BMW uses one brake and one clutch, (one of the BMW brake switches is for the OBC and other stuff). It is STRONGLY suggested that you mimic the switches/positions as GM intended. I end e up using a another brake switch on the BMW clutch pedal, (open and closed differently) and with the helped of coupe relays, was abel to mimic the GM pedal switches/positions perfectly without affecting the BMW brake switch and its function.
One of the clutch switches is for the Cruise control module to disengage the cruise, the other is for the PCM which makes decisions such as;
(courtesy of swingtan)
Clutch Fuel Cutoff
Clutch spark timing
Exit of DFCO on clutch engagement
Exit of coast down mode ( maybe.... )
Exit of Cruise Control
Change of the rolling idle control
and more...
Hope that helps for anyone wanting to utilize the GM Cruise control.
End QUOTE....
Unfortunately I didn't keep the author's name. If you have the source link or author, I'd like to edit my post and give credit where it's due.
Wish there were a single thread that captured all this E39-LS tribal knowledge.
I posted several times what needs to be done, here is a sample:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3&postcount=15
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=19
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
rao, thanks for the links. I've been very keen on your swap threads. From my reads, you seem to have a whole lot of BMW-LS swap experience. Love the stealth car with a blower!
Schitzo's thread is another good read, as is Quicksilver328i.
For the recoding thread. I liked James' detail. Lost the link but here's some of the text ... Doh, he answered my check engine light question in this thread. Too many threads, and my memory isn't all there.
Quote..
The equipment I used is here: http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....in-with-K-DCAN
There is supposedly a more direct connection you can make without all the adapters (someone links to the less cumbersome setup in the thread linked above), but I already mis-guided myself into buying the one I started with, so I figured what the hell, might as well try it and see if it worked. Well, it did It seems that with the new hardware I bought, I can code just about any e39 to present BMW's. Seems better to me than buying an interface made specifically for later model 20-pin equipped cars.
The software is called NCS Expert, I followed the walkthrough in the PDF posted here to actually do the work: http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....oding-your-car
The re-code procedure tells the instrument cluster to look for analog signals instead of can-bus messages, so I am going to add 2 new pins to the back of my instrument cluster in the same place they go for a 1996-1997. What could possibly go wrong?
These are all on 26-pin blue on 96-97 WDS:
#3 tach
#18 BR/GE and #19 BR/VI coolant temp (was hoping to use a second 1-wire coolant temp sensor, looks like that won't work will probably splice into GM sensor)
#13 injection signal (I wonder if setting that to analog and tying in one of the GM injector signals will make the gauge move?)
Check engine light on the early models is power through X16 #17, ground is X16 #2 Not sure if the bulb/circuitry is in the newer clusters or not.
Last edited by zr6sbc; 09-11-2011 at 05:58 PM.
Exhaust will be 3" duals with an X pipe and 2x 14x9 Magnaflow mufflers. I don't see many options under the car for duals through the center support bearing area, so this is what I'll use. Snaking under the rear suspension will be the hardest part. Going to try to keep the tips stealth-like, but I want to make sure they exit behind the rear bumper to help with noise. I have a feeling I'll end up needing 2 resonators, but we'll see how it goes. Shouldn't be too hard to add those in later if it's too loud inside the car.
That thing sounds mean with open headers. You are getting me discouraged that yours will be on the road very soon and mine is collecting leaves in the backyard .
E53 LSX Swap Coming Soon!
Looking forward to seeing the results! If you get in a space bind, these guys http://www.drgas.com/ have some oval pipes.
Can you post photos of the space between the back half of the engine and the frame rails especially around the steering shaft and box? Curious about the space as compared with the six cylinder chassis.
Well, it isn't easy to get good pics, but here you go:
Thank you. Excellent job on the photos. Great fit on the headers.
Very nice build, I don't know how I missed it!
This:
Isn't going to work, unless I want to worry about the exhaust dragging on everything going down the road. I don't know what I was thinking when I thought I could run 2x 3" pipes through the one side.
Exhaust has been my life for 3+ hours for 4 days straight. If it clanks and bangs around under acceleration/deceleration, I am going to be pissed! I think it will be finished up by the weekend. With a little luck I'll be able to get the gas pedal mounted and will be driving it sometime next week.
Last edited by James39; 09-16-2011 at 10:33 AM.
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
These forum servers are crazy!
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
nice and congrats on the firing
nice and congrats on the firing
Thanks man!
Sounds much quieter now, here's what I came up with for a homebrewed exhaust. Taken from my old project + a few more bends and some extra 3" pipe I had leftover.
Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it works
Here's another boring video
Is it throttle cracker, throttle follower, decay, or something else that's causing the revs to fall back down so slowly on this? I worked on the old swap chassis for several months trying to work on VE, I haven't done much of anything else.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7Chq0sBzXY[/ame]
Last edited by James39; 09-21-2011 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
See if any of these threads help you. I couldn't tell by your video, but it could be somewhat normal. You could also have a vacuum leak and or modify your tune to help.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagno...st-i-like.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-ma...lp-please.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ml#post6407425
Doug
'97 M3/4
Those are good ones, sounds like what I need to be looking into.
In the video at 1:20, when I give it some throttle, I immediately let my foot off the gas, and you can hear it just comes down way too slowly (IMO anyway)
This project isn't done, but it runs and drives. All I can say is holy shit! What a ride.
Traction is better than I expected (better than the same engine in a '68 Chevy C10 picup with a LSD rear anyway...)
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
Nice!!
You may want to rule out the simple things on your slow return to idle: sticking gas pedal from binding, good, floor mat, etc. Don't ask...
Awesome swap! Does your AC work?
There is alot of idle and tuning info on this site:
http://ls1tuningguide.com/index.php
I used the info found there to get my stuff up and running.
I got the RPM to come down more reasonably by reducing throttle follower airflow by 50%.
The other issue I'm having is that if driving and I push in the clutch, the engine dies! Been that way for a while, I think I'll try increasing idle airflow. I need to get that worked out because it's a real pain trying to use the gas and brake pedal at the same time.
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
Did wire in the "clutch anticipate" to the PCM? PCM uses that for some of the fueling and IAC strategies.
more info on "clutch anticipate" please
This tells you a little about the trouble code and it's use for an ls1 camaro.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20...TC%20P0704.htm
Doug
'97 M3/4
Ok, everything above works, but I'm confused on the temp gauge. It says coolant temp is transmitted by can bus after 97, but it looks like my cluster is already wired on pins 18 and 19?
Does that mean the wires are already in place?
How did you connect your temp sensor? Splice in from the GM sensor? I have both a GM sensor and an autometer sensor installed. Autometer is one wire, GM is 2.
MPG gauge is way off, I hope anyway. Will eventually try this procedure:
If too far out of range, this is always an option where they talk about a signal converter http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1280417 A very strange thing to be concerned about, but I'd like to make it work right!
TEST-NR. 20
KVBR: 1000
This "test" is actually a way to adjust the OBC's fuel consumption factor. There's a sensor in the fuel injector system that indicates fuel consumption back to the OBC. This "KVBR" value is used to calibrate that sensor using the following process:You now have your fuel consumption factor. To enter the factor into the OBC, get into Test 20 and press Reset. This will start the KVBR value counting down. It will count down to 750, then start over at 1250. A crude user interface to be sure, but it works.
- Reset one of the OBC mileage indicators and the trip odometer, and fill your tank.
- Record the actual fuel consumption for your car over a long period (one to two months at least).
- Divide this reading into the trip odometer value to calculate your actual mileage.
- Divide this result by the OBC indicated mileage over the same period and multiply by 1000.
You probably don't need to change the KVBR value; the default value of 1000 should be accurate. And if your calculated fuel consumption factor is outside the 750–1250 range, there's probably something wrong.
Last edited by James39; 09-28-2011 at 02:06 AM.
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
What are you using for your drive shaft? Will be going your route shortly. Hoping to pick-up motor and tranny next week. Intend to keep the stock exhaust.
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