Yeah, I'm not very happy about the fitment of the Professional Products cross-over line that came with the rails. That's how long it was out of the box. Unless I can find a replacement in the exact size, I'll probably let it go since I'm not equipped to make up a new one. . . Hmmm... maybe I'll call/email them in the morning and show them the pic of how ungodly long it is.
Definitely on the fence about it, but thinking I'll let it go for now anyway. I doubt that it's much more of a restriction than the 90 deg. turns leading into and out of it???
Got the clutch MC just about how I want it. Going to try to retain the helper spring, clutch start and cruise release switches. I at least plan on trying out the spring anyway.
Last edited by James39; 08-16-2011 at 12:42 AM.
For the cross over lines, I think all you need to do is rotate the 90* adapters pointing up so they are both about 45* up. It should make a nice uniform arch.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Here's what it looks like without the strange bend. I guess if the hood closes, I'll leave it this way until I get a better fitting hose:
The 'vette filter/regulator was an easy swap. The dorman quick connects are barbed for nylon line, but they seem to grip the hose a lot tighter than the factory barbed lines. No leaks, seems tight. I guess that takes another thing off my list.
Last edited by James39; 08-18-2011 at 02:06 AM.
Can you shorten the steel braided line?
I also have the Pro Products rails. I ran my fuel line up behind the engine, "T" behind the manifold to each rail, plugged front of rails, no front cross over.
Last edited by BRAAP; 08-17-2011 at 02:13 AM.
Get rid of those worm style clamps. They are not suitable for fuel injection.
Use these instead.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...i_sku=89016085
Doug
'97 M3/4
Np!
'97 M3/4
I'm not sure if they are re-useable fittings or not. Never built a braided line.
That would have been a better way to go. I already had to make custom brackets for truck injectors on the rail designed for full length injectors. Not so sure if I'll undo everything to change it, but yours looks like a much cleaner setup.
Last edited by James39; 08-17-2011 at 08:11 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
That was the original plan, but my truck-style (8.1 marine) injectors would require cutting down the mounting perches on the intake for the fuel rail. At least with the aftermarket rails, I was able to mount it where it needed to be to work with my injectors.
There's always something... I considered swapping to car injectors, but then I'm starting over with tuning, buying new car injectors and pigtails, etc... I think I would have been several $$$ into making a car fuel rail fitting without hacking up the manifold.
His clamps are ok, those are the factory BMW clamps for fuel injection, they look bad, but don't cut into the fuel line at all.
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
its not difficult to do braided lines. All you need is some masking tape, or painters tape and a cut off wheel and the required wrenches. those lines should be rebuildable
clint
Hmmmmm.... Sounds easy enough. I think I'll make it a winter project. Although the current setup is a little unsightly, I can see the finish line, and don't really want to go backwards even on something as small as a fuel line at this point. I am a fairly impatient person.
It's alive!
Here's a noisy vid with open headers. It's ear piercing
Still some things left to do before it comes down off the jackstands but engine running is good progress.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIf-qdRE4kU[/ame]
Good stuff James
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Good Job
Viktor Agnar Falk Guðmundsson
-----------------------------
Signature idea, courtesy of 5mall5nails
Super job. I'm glad the project didn't stall.
I'm contemplating the swap and have been accumulating info from the E39 LSn threads. There are couple of huge gaps in my information.
Will you share what you know about integrating the LS ECU into the E39 electricals? I'm particularly curious about ..
* The integration differences between the 1997 cluster and later clusters.
* Tachometer integation.
* Check engine light in the cluster (is this just a 12V light or a smart bus).
Can the BMW DME be removed entirely? or does it serve some function and need to stay?
Thanks and great and speedy job.
Very nice! Congratas!
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Sure feels good to have it running!
The engine moved around a good bit more than I expected on the rubber mounts, but I guess there's not a whole lot that can be done about that.
The DME controls a realy that powers a lot of under-hood circuits, including the fuel pump realy. It turns out that the fuel pump and DME relays are wired up for ground triggers to operate them. I can't think of any reason to keep the DME. I totally removed it.
I used 2 separate relays wired to switch a ground with a 12v+ signal. One switches the ground on the DME relay, the other switches a ground on the fuel pump relay. 12v+, key 12v+, key and start 12v+ are all right in the electrical box, along with the 12v+ in start only.
The only 2 crucial signals I can think of at the moment from the GM ecu that are needed to make things operate are the 12v+ trigger for the fuel pump relay and the 2 ground triggers for electric fans.
I haven't re-wired my cluster yet, but here's what I know... Post 97 (and presumably all the way up to end of production) clusters need to be re-coded to operate on conventional signals rather than can-bus messages to make coolant temp and tachometer work. I'm going to try to make the MPG gauge function too, so I also switched that one to conventional (maybe it won't work right, but a dead gauge will probably annoy me ).
One thing that's puzzling me right now is that the Brake and ABS lights just started illuminating. Not sure what that's all about. I plan to just snip the power wire going to the DSC bulb while I'm in there re-wiring the cluster gauges.
Once you re-code the cluster, you also need to add new pins because the conventional signals go across different circuitry (WDS)
Check engine light appears to be just a 12v light on a switched ground, based on WDS info. So, once the cluster is re-wired and I figure out why my brake and ABS lights are illuminated, I should have as close as I can get to a full functioning cluster.
When I install the A/C, I'm going to use a reed relay to switch across the AC button bulb to power another 12v relay into the GM ECU. Truck ECU's like mine from 2003+ (and maybe ALL vehicles equipped with drive by wire) use serial data to control the AC functions (including electric fans on, idle up, AC compressor relay on, maybe more), but express vans all the way up to 2004? (cable driven TB) still used 12v+ triggers for AC signals to the ECU. To overcome this I had a segment swap done to my ECU to make the AC system accept 12v+ for AC request.
I also plan to make the cruise control work some day. Luckily, GM (trucks anyway) use conventional 12v+ signals for all the various inputs. The problem is the BMW steering wheel buttons don't. There's gotta be a way to turn them into switches though!
Last edited by James39; 09-10-2011 at 11:20 PM.
congrads on the monster!!! i cant wait to start mine...
Congratulations on getting it running!
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
great job, sounds mean with open headers
Bookmarks