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Thread: Hard Shifting into 1st gear

  1. #1
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    95 //M3, 91 1/2 SHO, 00 B5 PASSAT 1.8T, 71 Nova SS

    Hard Shifting into 1st gear

    I have a 95 M3. When I stop at a light and put the car in neutral, when the light changes and I try to put the car in first it does not want to go with out force. If I push the clutch in a wait about 8 seconds it goes much easier. I changed to redline syn. about 6 month ago. This has made no difference. I also have a UUC short shifter; I had the same problem prior to the short shifter. Any Ideas would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I forgot to say the car only has 50,000 miles.

  3. #3
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    i can't really help other than to affirm mine does this from time to time. i find it easier to slip it into first if you slip in/out of 3rd and 4rth a couple times really quick (all with the clutch in of course...this is at that moment when you're like "oh shit im not moving" and there are people behind you and stuff, im sure you know the feeling).

  4. #4
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    Thanks I will give that a try. I do know the feeling. I always try to watch the opposite directions traffic light to see when it turns yellow so I can push the clutch in and by the time it my directions turns green I can put the car in first with out to much trouble.

  5. #5
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    My car is like this too. Seems worse when it's cold. I'm hoping that it is clutch slave cylinder not disengaging the clutch all the way. I meant to check by pumping the clutch before attempting to put it in gear and see if that made a difference.

  6. #6
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    it's because your at a dead stop, gears are not moving so if it hits the gear right, it wont go in.

    Hard to syncro a non rotating transmission
    The term badge whores is not allowed on bimmerforums, because badge whores don't like it

  7. #7
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    I would second what Jmazz said.

  8. #8
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    I use to have the same problem. After I threw in some MT-90 it goes in a lot easier. I don't have to clutch it twice or blip the throttle before engaging first. Sometimes I wiggle the lever left to right a couple times before throwing it into first.

  9. #9
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    I have this same problem with my 95 M3, and with my previous Subaru Impreza. With the shifter in neutral, let out the cluch, then push it back in and try selecting 1st gear. It should be much easier this time.
    While the clutch pedal is out, the tranny input shaft is rotating with engine. Push in the clutch to stop the rotation of the input shaft, and hopefully the gears will line up better this time.
    Once you get used to it, you'll start doing it every time you select 1st gear, and it takes only a split second.

  10. #10
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    Originally posted by johnb
    I have this same problem with my 95 M3, and with my previous Subaru Impreza. With the shifter in neutral, let out the cluch, then push it back in and try selecting 1st gear. It should be much easier this time.
    While the clutch pedal is out, the tranny input shaft is rotating with engine. Push in the clutch to stop the rotation of the input shaft, and hopefully the gears will line up better this time.
    Once you get used to it, you'll start doing it every time you select 1st gear, and it takes only a split second.
    This is an excellent explanation.

    I've experience the same prob on my '96 M3. It doesn't really bother me anymore. I either put it in 1st gear just when I come to a stop, (safer to keep it in gear with the clutch in. You dont want to get rear ended) or just 'double tap' 1st when putting it in gear.

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  11. #11
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    go to www.understeer.com. look under tech/WSR. there is a solution that a guy made up if you are pretty handy with tools.

  12. #12
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    fuck you
    just slip it in, it'll eventually go. common sense says bmw made it hard to shift into 1st to prevent a catastrophic money shift

  13. #13
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    Originally posted by jsn117
    just slip it in, it'll eventually go. common sense says bmw made it hard to shift into 1st to prevent a catastrophic money shift
    Uncommon sense would indicate this has nothing to do with it.

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  14. #14
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    fuck you
    Originally posted by dragonm3
    Uncommon sense would indicate this has nothing to do with it.
    dont post while drunk kids...you'll get owned

  15. #15
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    Originally posted by jsn117
    just slip it in, it'll eventually go. common sense says bmw made it hard to shift into 1st to prevent a catastrophic money shift
    Thanks god for that !

    When it happenes to me, I just push harder? I guess my problem is not so bad as yours.

  16. #16
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    Originally posted by jsn117
    dont post while drunk kids...you'll get owned
    Though inadéquat.... Thanks for the public service message.

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  17. #17
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    your pressure plate may not be disengaged enough to allow easy shifting into first.

    where in the pedal travel does the clutch engage? need the bottom/floor?

    have you added a clutch stop? it maybe adjusted too high.

    check the hydro cylinders too. bleed it.
    Alan


    2006 325i
    2015 M3

  18. #18
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    My clutch engages about an inch or two off the floor. I don't have the clutch stop. I will try bleeding the slave cylinder. One other thing I have found is when I try to put the shifter into 1st the car sometimes moves forward very slightly. Thanks for all the info

  19. #19
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    clutch is not disengaging all the way. OR its worn out. i had the same symptoms, and my clutch disk was worn out. the clutch still grabbed very well though (it was aftermarket).


    james

  20. #20
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    Originally posted by dragonm3
    I either put it in 1st gear just when I come to a stop, (safer to keep it in gear with the clutch in. You dont want to get rear ended) or just 'double tap' 1st when putting it in gear.
    I don't understand this advice. I've always been taught to keep the car in neutral at a stop, and keep my foot off the clutch pedal. I vaguely remember a tech saying constant application on the pedal puts undue pressure on the clutch throw-out bearing, though I could be wrong. Anyhow, I don't think it's wise to follow a course of action based on the slim chance that a rear-ending might occur.

    Sometimes I have trouble getting into first as well; maybe 3-4 times a year. But it never lasts for long. And it has always been an extremely rare -- though nonetheless real -- issue, even after I had a new clutch installed. It's just the way the car... is.
    • 2006 E46 M3 ZCP
    • 2005 Lotus Elise

  21. #21
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    Originally posted by Jon97
    I don't understand this advice. I've always been taught to keep the car in neutral at a stop, and keep my foot off the clutch pedal. I vaguely remember a tech saying constant application on the pedal puts undue pressure on the clutch throw-out bearing, though I could be wrong.
    It certainly uses the throwout bearing more than would otherwise be the case, but depending on your driving style, and clutch type, you're clutch may wear out in only 50k miles.

    I don't know how good BMW throwout bearings are, but I did this on my 89 Rx-7 TII and never had a problem with the throwout bearing.

    Anyhow, I don't think it's wise to follow a course of action based on the slim chance that a rear-ending might occur.
    Isn't that abit like saying that you don't believe in insurance based on the slim chance an accident might occur?

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  22. #22
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    Ai-yai-yai!... OK, how about this: The clutch is sufficiently heavy to the point where I don't want to hold it in the whole time, waiting for a long light. <grin>

    But seriously, I do have a counter-argument: My friend was stopped at an intersection in an Isuzu stylus. He was the first car in line, so to speak. In his rear view, he sees a car SCREAMING toward him. He had had the clutch in, in anticipation for the light to change, but he instinctively let the clutch out and put the car in neutral. The approaching car slammed into him; totaling both cars. Paramedics came (the other car was doing like 40-50). Anyhow, the paramedic said it was a great instinctive move to quickly go into neutral -- it's better not to brace yourself against any pedals (clutch or brake) in this type of situation, because that's how hips and knees and legs get broken.

    That said, if you can accelerate to safety before you get hit, more power to you! (Or am I reading your strategy wrong)
    • 2006 E46 M3 ZCP
    • 2005 Lotus Elise

  23. #23
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    Former 330ti pilot.
    I think it might be a little bushing called the selecting rod stablizer bushing. It holds the stabilizing arm against the frame of the car.

    ****There is a picture of it from bimmer95's site under the same "tech: WSR" page. Look at the top 4 pictures (well the second one from the top on the left is obscured, but the top two, and the second on on the right show it). It is the bushing at the end of the stabiling arm that holds it to the frame.****

    I , too, have had the same problem, not just with my current bimmer, but my last one too.

    I was installing an SSK thinking that maybe the bearing upgrade would give me the smoother shift since I already changed my slave cylinder and bled it a thousand times without results.

    Well, as some of you would suspect the SSK made it even more impossible to shift into 1st (with 2nd gear being even worse).

    I ripped the SSK back out and took a look at my linkage. I noticed that the stabilizing arm was sitting a little low in the busing because the rubber was worn almost completly out. I shoved some peices of rubber in the bushing supporting the end of the stabilizng arm completly centering it in the bushing.

    WOW!!!! It made the biggest difference. It shifted and felt like a shifter should . I have no doubt that it was the problem since it was the only thing a messed with hile it was on the lift (this after about 10-15 different changes without avail). Ofcourse the rubber fell out after about ~50 miles, the problem came back, and now I ordered the bushing, so I am just waiting to install it.

    I am convinced that that small amount of off-center placement of the stabilizing arm in the bushing reduces enough angle and leverage that it makes it difficult to shift. I believe that is why when you rev the engine a little bit, it inturn moves the tranny upwards in it's mounts and makes it easier to shift due to the angle and leverage being restored for a moment. I can feel my stabilizer moving up and down with the revs of the engine, so no doubt that has something to do with it wearing out.

    I have driven another M3, and it has the same problems.
    I did a tranny swap on my old 318is and had to home-make that bushing and it worked "ok" but eventually it was impossibile to shift into 1st. And this is with a new clutch kit, slave & master cylinder, etc. So it is no doubt the bushing I made that was causing this problem.

    Give me about a week, and I will come back on this thread and tell you for sure, 100%, that this bushing is causing the problems and get the part#. It cost 28$ at the $tealer, or like 19$ with the discount. I just need to get to a lift in the mean time so I can toss this little bad boy in..

    Anyways, blah..blah...blah... Take this post with a grain of salt. I am no master mechanic, but I have had nothing but problems with cooling systems and driveline and am getting good at narrowing the problems down.

    Kiley
    Last edited by kiley_sean; 01-15-2004 at 09:29 PM.
    Kiley- '05 MR

  24. #24
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    Originally posted by Jon97
    That said, if you can accelerate to safety before you get hit, more power to you! (Or am I reading your strategy wrong)
    You've got it exactly right. And yeah, at very long lights I usually just 'neutral it' myself.

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  25. #25
    Join Date
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    Originally posted by kiley_sean
    I think it might be a little bushing called the selecting rod stablizer bushing. It holds the stabilizing arm against the frame of the car. ...
    Give me about a week, and I will come back on this thread and tell you for sure, 100%, that this bushing is causing the problems and get the part#. It cost 28$ at the $tealer, or like 19$ with the discount. I just need to get to a lift in the mean time so I can toss this little bad boy in..
    Take this post with a grain of salt. I am no master mechanic, ...
    Kiley
    Find out! I need to replace my Guibo and ballance my propeller shaft so I'll be right in there in the next few months. It would be nice to make the reason for this thread nothing but a memory.

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