LM7 with a 4l80e into an E39

[kenndoggy]

It's going to be a 2 piece steel 3" shaft. Same as what most stock cars end up running. Critical speed on the shaft will be around 260 mph (just above 12k RPM's) so I'm not too concerned I'll make it there. I do hear what you are saying, the trouble is that the E39 shaft is different than the E39. With only the 1 U-joint stock it becomes difficult to get the angles right, I'd have to get the CL of the tranny perfectly aimed at the center of the support bearing, which I just couldn't do in this case (I played with it a lot). The engine sits too high, but I can easily raise the tailshaft a bit and make the engine/tranny level with the diff input, so the U-joints will oppose and no vibration.


The shop told me the slip is fine, they have ZERO issues. Guy assured me. Driveshaftshop (company that makes BMW stuff and sells it on here) has had a ton of known issues.

The blame of the slip came from driveshaftshop.com, and I think they are just wrong on that.

Agreed. None of their stuff seems to work worth a damn, I don't think I know 1 single person with a BMW driveshaft from them thats happy, and vibration free. Good luck, lets see pics when this beast of a driveshaft is complete!

[Quicksilver328i]

Agreed. None of their stuff seems to work worth a damn, I don't think I know 1 single person with a BMW driveshaft from them thats happy, and vibration free. Good luck, lets see pics when this beast of a driveshaft is complete!

Multiweek process, but as soon as the input flange gets back I'll be posting up the diff build.

[James39]

What are you using for a diff?

I'm thinking about just a gear swap, but I can't even figure out what gears would work (if any) in a '99 540i

I know I need limited slip, but that will have to come another day $$$$

[kenndoggy]

What size diff is a 540i, 188mm or 210mm?

[James39]

Are you mocking me? :

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674001

I need 10 or so posts before I can send/receive PMs, give me a break

In all seriousness, I've searched here and google for about 6 hours, and I can't figure it out.

Some say all e39's are the same, some say the 540i's have the larger 210...

[Quicksilver328i]

What are you using for a diff?

I'm thinking about just a gear swap, but I can't even figure out what gears would work (if any) in a '99 540i

I know I need limited slip, but that will have to come another day $$$$

I'm using a ring and pinion from an E46 M3 with the E46 M3 center section, and an E39 M5 housing, with some frankenstein parts for input/output flanges.

What size diff is a 540i, 188mm or 210mm?

The 528 is a 188k, the 540 is a 210k, and the M5 is a 215 (E46 and E39 M cars share internal parts). Do no confuse the 188k and 210k with the older diffs, the spider gear/LSD section is different.

Are you mocking me? :

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674001

I need 10 or so posts before I can send/receive PMs, give me a break

In all seriousness, I've searched here and google for about 6 hours, and I can't figure it out.

Some say all e39's are the same, some say the 540i's have the larger 210...

The E39's all have the same subframe and diff mount points. So you can bolt in an M5 diff, but need driveshaft and axles. Driveshaft is no big deal since I'm going fully custom, the axles I think I have solved, but I might have to get a bit of modification done, we'll see.

I needed something steeper than 3.15 since my first gear will be 2.49, the 3.62 is perfect, and the M5 housing bolts in.

I'm looking into solid aluminum diff bushings (easy to make myself) so that I can lower the diff about 1/2" (get driveshaft clearance). I want to keep the subframe on rubber for a while and see how it holds up, and with it being able to rock around a bit I want more clearance from the DS to the fuel tank.

[tonytone4143]

sweet!!

[Quicksilver328i]

Its been raining everyday and I'm working on my car in basically a giant car-port (stilt house) so I haven't been super motivated to be outside. After work today I had time to play with a few things.

First, heres the adapter Advanced Driveline in Orlando made for me. This is E36 6-bolt diff bolt pattern to a standard Spicer 4-bolt 1350 U-joint flange bolt pattern, made from mild steel. Fits perfect and both parts are centered by hubs.




I also bought a 32 spline slip yoke while I was there. There are apparently a number of TH400 / 4l80e output shafts and tailsections available. The 2wd truck transmission has a bolt on yoke (I'm ditching) and an output shaft with a raised shoulder and O-ring to seal the center of the on yoke from leaking fluid. A new yoke (slip style) can either be cut short of this shoulder, or counter bored to slide over the shoulder in order to fit. The O-ring is on the first shoulder left (past) the splining on the output shaft.

Some pictures:






There is a company online that sells counterbored yokes, but I'm just going to get the shop to make it all work for me (looks like cutting it short will work fine, but I might have it counterbored anyway).

[ccreddell]

Any updates?

[Quicksilver328i]

Any updates?

Lots going on, but not as much on my E39 as I'd like.

I've ordered a whole slew of parts, AC compressor, Alternator, AC bracket, but I haven't put the diff together yet or put the motor back in to start running the harness out yet.


I promise I'll post updates once I get all the parts I need.

[nitrosobmw]

wow, good work

[Quicksilver328i]

Thanks, I ran out of money and got burned out from the heat over the summer.

That said, I'm starting to get motivated again (and have a house under contract, woot!).

I'm getting down to a list of "major/minor" items left to complete:

Splice GM harness into BMW harness
Make power steering lines
Make oil lines
Make AC lines
Finish headers (bungs,coating, and connection to exhaust - have parts for this, just need the engine back in)
Fuel lines (have the intake manifold, injectors, rails, and a plan, more on this in a later post)
Driveshaft (just have to take them a dimension and $$)
Build Differential - I keep finding new specialty tools to buy, but I think it will be done by next week (whether I do it or just pay someone).
I'm going to get bushings to lower the diff 1/2" so my driveshaft clears the gas tank (sorry no pics of the issue).
Coolant lines/rad. mounts
Tranny cooler lines

There are a lot of little things beyond this, but these are the big ones.

I ordered hardware today:
http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/chevrolet.htm

That will be here by Monday (hopefully Friday, but the girl said she wasn't sure if they had all of the bolts for the brackets in stock)

I also have a few other things I've changed from the original plan, but I'll show pictures as I finish each project.

[PJ325i]

Strong work!!

[boosted 528]

Wow this is awesome! Car is gonna be sick. For the power steering, ive looked at this kit before for my car. Maybe you should look into something similar.

[James39]

I want to keep the subframe on rubber for a while and see how it holds up, and with it being able to rock around a bit I want more clearance from the DS to the fuel tank.

I was just re-reading your whole thread, and have just replaced my front diff bushing... It sure would be nice if there were poly mounts for the diff and engine, wouldn't it?

The rubber stuff just seems so failure prone with extra horses.

[Schitzo]

Luckily with the E39 6 cylinder subframe, there are number of motor mounts that can be used. I use mounts out of a Z8 which are stiffer than the stock 528i mounts but dont creat any NVH issues. If you want poly mounts, UUC or Voshlag mounts made for the E46 and E36 should bolt right up to the subframe.

However I think a bigger problem lies in the differential mounts. They are just to soft for putting power down. I have been chasing bad wheel hop in my car. Replacing the bushings,shocks,springs,control arms and ball joints helped some but it is still there.

[E36LUVA]

Subscribed!

[James39]

I have been chasing bad wheel hop in my car. Replacing the bushings,shocks,springs,control arms and ball joints helped some but it is still there.

I wonder if we could get some larger axles. Seems to be some GTO axles that eliminate it for them

http://shop.gforce1320.com/product.sc?productId=54

[Pzary3233]

I think that is over thinking the situation. Many people report that with simple subframe stiffening that they can eliminate the wheel hop. I also don't see how axles can eliminate wheel hop if they are properly built...?

[Schitzo]

I wonder if we could get some larger axles. Seems to be some GTO axles that eliminate it for them

http://shop.gforce1320.com/product.sc?productId=54

I don't think larger axles would help much. The idea behind using axles to reduce wheel hop stems from GM engineers when they built the newer CTSV. The earlier CTSV was severely plagued with wheel hop. As such, GM elected to use different size axles left and right to help curb the issue. This is the premise behind Gforce's anti hop axles. I have heard it works.

With the E39 I think the issue lies in the way the diff is mounted (single front mount and dual rear mounts) I think this allows the diff to twist up quite a bit under load. I believe this is the reason BMW switched to dual front mount and a single rear with the E60.

I made my diff mounts as rigid as I could and even used a bracket the puts the front mount bolt in double shear. I also freshened up the rear as much as I could but wheel hop is still there. I hope to remedy it with the way I mount the Ford diff.

[James39]

I think that is over thinking the situation. Many people report that with simple subframe stiffening that they can eliminate the wheel hop. I also don't see how axles can eliminate wheel hop if they are properly built...?

Are the stock axles are flexing and releasing causing the wheel hop action to start? Stronger axles, less flexing/loading on the axle shaft???

I don't think larger axles would help much. The idea behind using axles to reduce wheel hop stems from GM engineers when they built the newer CTSV. The earlier CTSV was severely plagued with wheel hop. As such, GM elected to use different size axles left and right to help curb the issue. This is the premise behind Gforce's anti hop axles. I have heard it works.

2 different axle sizes... certainly interesting. Wonder what black magic is behind that?

[Pzary3233]

I doubt that is the case with the OEM BMW axles...

[rao]

The issue wasn't the strength of the axles. Differently sized axles resonate and different frequencies. GM used this same solution on the ZR1.

[James39]

Here's an interesting read on the subject. Ok, done hijacking your thread now

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=286119&page=1

[James39]

Here's an interesting read on the subject. Ok, done hijacking your thread now

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=286119&page=1