Hey all,
My compressor has been dripping oil since I recharged my AC. I think I might have over-charged it leading to a blown seal inside the compressor. The oil has been leaking from the bottom plate (not from the clutch input shaft.) Recently, the AC has been struggling to produce cold air, I can feel it in the car when I turn it on, therefore, I'm no longer using it. The question is, how hard is it to tear apart the compressor and replace o-rings? Should I just throw down a couple hundred on a reconditioned compressor? I'm guessing that pulling the compressor apart (even just the bottom plate) will require purging the system and then starting over.
Thoughts? It's getting DAMN hot in New Mexico!
Steve
Worst case I have 2 old '78 compressors that may, or may not work
The externals are not the same as yours, so they'd have to be swapped.
Tbd
If it's the Mini York compressor then it's gravy to re-seal and they're built like brick shit-houses so you shouldn't really have to worry about pistons or rings. I think the onlt SST you'll need is a clutch puller which you can probably rent at vatozone or bring the compressor and a 6 pack to your local mechanic and I'm sure he'd be happy to pull it off for you.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...ry_Code=YorkGS
If it is just the gasket/seal at the bottom of the compressor, do I need to purge the system of refrigerant before cracking the compressor open? I've seen r134 conversion kits at rockauto, but those are mostly o-rings. I'm running ES-12 now and don't want to mess around with a full conversion.
UPDATE!
Thanks Toyotech, ordered the gasket/seal set... also found the Climate Control Inc. Service Manual for York Compressors... it's here http://www.scribd.com/doc/47575235/Y...service-manual
That's gonna come in handy... I'm pretty sure I just blew the baseplate gasket. $40 shipping included for the new gaskets... will report back once I get them in.
Update 2:
Unless I'm reading this manual wrong, it says to check the compressor oil level after charging the system and running the A/C to the desired cabin temp... from this I infer that the system pressure doesn't need to be released prior to opening the oil fill bolt, and further, I infer that if the former is true, then I don't need to vent my system before removing the baseplate and replacing the suspect gasket... thoughts?
I've only ever bench built a compressor but as far as I know, the crankcase is somewhat pressurized from the rest of the system so I think you're best off having it evacuated and replace all the seals at once. If the bottom plate seal is leaking and you replace only that, chances are what will happen is that the next weakest seal will go now that it's holding proper pressure again. I'm not sure exactly the oil level requirements off the top of my head, but I'll check in the morning when I get to the shop and get back to you.
Before I go cramming my head between the wheel well and exhaust manifold, how do the york compressors mount anyway? Can't see anything obvious from the top...
You have to unbolt the bracket from the engine with the compressor attached, on the engine side of the bracket are 3 bolts that connect the compressor to the bracket and then 3 or 4 that go up from the bottom. You'll need to put the front up on jackstands to drop the whole shootin match out the bottom. The bracket bolts to the engine with 5 bolts and a brace going to the passenger side engine mount. 2 bolt just below the #1 exhaust port (you can get to these from up top if you feel for them), 1 on the bottom towards the back of the motor going into the side of the block (get to this one from below), 1 going through the water pump/timing cover (it'll be a longish one, about 5-6 inches) which you can access from above and 1 behind the a/c belt tensioner pulley that goes through the timing cover as well. You'll have to remove the tensioner pulley (19 mm bolt from behind) and use a deep socket or a 3 in extension to get to it as it's somewhat recessed. Oh, don't forget to remove the ground strap for the compressor and wire going to the clutch. I need to pull my a/c belt off to match up a shorter one today, I'll snap a few pictures while I'm there.
Here's a pic of all the bracket mounting holes (6) for a '78.
For the bolt behind the small pulley, have to partially remove the pulley...
Yours may be a little different
They weigh about 2 tons, tie it up with a piece of rope before removing the last bolt.
Last edited by epmedia; 05-27-2011 at 05:22 PM.
Tbd
sounds like it's gonna be fun
i'm guess it's easier to disconnect the high and low pressure lines to the back of the compressor at the compressor BEFORE it's dropped? Looks like a tight fit to get a wrench in there while it's up, but I'm guessing it'd be even harder to get them disconnected with it hangin there
Try removing the lines before dropping it. They may be VERY tight, so be careful not to break anything. If you have hose clamps on the ends, and the hose is long enough, you may opt to just cutting the hoses near the fittings.
Or just rebuild it under the hood, with the hoses still attached (if possible)
Last edited by epmedia; 05-27-2011 at 06:57 PM.
Tbd
only one bolt left... not as hard as i thought... def not going to cut any lines... will try to get the lines off before pulling the last bolt, fingers crossed...
she's out... disconnected the high side pressure from the top, disconnected the low side before the fill port near the strut tower... overall MUCH easier than I thought... event the A/C lines disconnected pretty easy... now i just have to wait until the new seals come in!
Last month i pulled my compressor out and am considering fronting a couple hundred for a refurbished compressor off bavauto but im also concerned about those vibration bushings. Mine are falling apart and would need to be replaced to look better. what do your new shock bushings look like and where did you get them from?
I keep a bunch in my tool box for chucking at the other unsuspecting techs! The ones I used this last time I hadt it out were strut bushings from a Tacoma/4Runner I believe. Had to cut them in half so they'd fit, but can't beat the price.
Just cut along the dotted line-
Last edited by Toyotech; 05-28-2011 at 12:11 PM.
Borrowed a tool kit from O'Reilly... got the clutch off in a jiffy. A little oil evident at the input shaft, but certainly not the source... confirmed a leaking baseplate gasket. Now just waiting for the gasket/seal set to come in as well as a new supply of ES-12 and we should be in business!
Last edited by steide; 05-28-2011 at 07:28 PM.
Has anyone rebuilt the idler pulley for the AC unit? I think i will need bearings soon. I just updated my ac system and then the bearings start to make noise.
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