5HP24 Transmission Removal Tips and Woes

[djwillis808]

I've spent all day trying to get the trans out and I haven't been able to get the top 2 torx bolts out yet. It definitely requires two people and I'll finish it tomorrow with a friend.

A few things that I haven't found out when I did my beforehand research:

1. You need at least four or five socket wrench extensions, dont remember the lengths, either 1/2 or 3/8 with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for the torx socket thing. You need the leverage with the 1/2 socket wrench to break the bolts loose.

2. You don't need to drop the whole driveshaft; just unbolt the transmission side and place a jackstand under shaft on the rear side of the joint.

3. It was impossible to remove the driveshaft without dropped the transmission brace mount first. Theres a nut behind each of the 3 driveshaft to trans bolts. The only way to reach those nuts is by removing the transmission mount first. Unless maybe I used an impact wrench?

4. When removing the transmission to engine 'reverse torx' bolts, the driver's side had 2 bolts with nuts behind them?! That's gonna be a pain in the butt to reinstall! However, I didn't remove the front oxygen sensors because I didn't have a 21mm wrench but my small hands were able to fit right in between the O2 sensor and trans housing.


Trouble I'm currently having:

1. I broke all 4 exhaust studs that bolt from the header to the rest of the exhaust. The studs snapped at the bolts; the Liquid wrench + 10 minutes of waiting didn't help at all. I've tried to hammer out the broke studs from the header but they aren't budging... I won't be able to reinstall the exhaust! Any tips?

2. I rented a transmission jack from a equipment rental company, but it didn't come with chains or anything like that like I've seen on other jacks. Are they necessary? Can I use a ratchet strap instead? Also, the trans pan doesn't lay flat on the center of the jack because the 'arms' don't slide out far enough. The jack I have is a floor type.

I hope I can get this done by tomorrow night...

[lawdog8234]

I just did this about 2 weeks ago! Lucky for me I have a friend with a lift. This is a difficult job on your back. Once you remove the trans support with your jack under the pan then lower it until you can see them from the rear of the trans. Be careful not to let the weight of the engine and trans onto the steering components. You can place a small block of wood about 8"x2"x3/4 on top of the swaybar under the oil pan to support the engine after the trans is removed. Using a 3/8 x36" extention you will be able to reach the top two. The studs are a problem. You need a welder to weld a nut to the stud that's left then let cool. Then heat the manifold at the side area of the stud and back them out. BE CAREFUL WITH THE HEAT!!!! Or, you can try to drill them out but I have never had good luck with that. I removed my O2 sensors for being afraid I would damage them when I slid the trans back to lower down. I'm a welder so I was able to fabricate a pan attachment for the jack. I also used a tie strap to secure the trans to the attachment plate. Good luck I hope this was helpful!

[BlackonBlackVIP]

I had no issues. Had my trans out in about 45mins.. Then again I had all the tools. The nut and bolts on the bell housing are a pain to get back in for sure a little patience and it will go. As for the exhaust nut I always spray them down overnight then take them loose by hand or heat them if needed.

Chains will be needed but not necessary to hold the trans in place especially when dropping it and putting in in as you have to tilt it to get it in.

[jbriedis]

The trick for the top 2 bolts is once you have the tranny supported, lower the back end and it will tilt the motor with it. You can then use a long extension and get to them very easy. Beware, these top 2 bolts are smaller heads than the other torx so dont strip them by accidentally using the same socket as you did on the others.

Yep, 3 of my 4 exhaust studs were broken. Drill them out using progressively bigger drill bits then replace, or use bolts when reassembling.

[srhite]

The trick for the top 2 bolts is once you have the tranny supported, lower the back end and it will tilt the motor with it. You can then use a long extension and get to them very easy. Beware, these top 2 bolts are smaller heads than the other torx so dont strip them by accidentally using the same socket as you did on the others.

Yep, 3 of my 4 exhaust studs were broken. Drill them out using progressively bigger drill bits then replace, or use bolts when reassembling.

The top two bolts can be removed from the top, at least for a 540i. Just take the cover off the motor. Remove the dipstick and put a piece of cardboard over the engine. Then literally lay on top of the motor and remove the two top bolts in the bell housing. It's also much easier to put the bolts back in from the top. No way would I try it from underneath after seeing how easy it was to do from the top.

[srhite]

The trick for the top 2 bolts is once you have the tranny supported, lower the back end and it will tilt the motor with it. You can then use a long extension and get to them very easy. Beware, these top 2 bolts are smaller heads than the other torx so dont strip them by accidentally using the same socket as you did on the others.

Yep, 3 of my 4 exhaust studs were broken. Drill them out using progressively bigger drill bits then replace, or use bolts when reassembling.

I cut-off all four exhaust studs, because the nuts were impossible to remove. Then I heated the flange with a MAPP gas torch and beat them out with a hammer & punch. I'll be replacing those copper nuts with anti-sieze every year or two while I own the car (or any BMW). They can't be broken off the stud either, because there is a steel threaded insert in the copper nuts.

[kouks]

For the two top bolts, the passenger side can be reached from the top. You'll need a swivel ratchet head to help out. The driver side has to done from the bottom and requires two long extensions and a swivel on the bit. A friend to hold the bit in place while you turn would be great. Just wait until you install the two bolts that also have a nut on the drivers side, those are a PITA.

As far as the exhaust, if this is the first time its coming out, soak the bolts with PB Blaster for 30 min, then try it. If they still break, drill out and replace with tempered steel bolts from a hardware store.

You can use straps, but make sure the trans is balanced before you lower it. This thing weighs close to 150 lbs, don't drop or you wont have any fingers.

Also, it will take longer to install, always does.

[srhite]

For the two top bolts, the passenger side can be reached from the top. You'll need a swivel ratchet head to help out. The driver side has to done from the bottom and requires two long extensions and a swivel on the bit. A friend to hold the bit in place while you turn would be great. Just wait until you install the two bolts that also have a nut on the drivers side, those are a PITA.

As far as the exhaust, if this is the first time its coming out, soak the bolts with PB Blaster for 30 min, then try it. If they still break, drill out and replace with tempered steel bolts from a hardware store.

You can use straps, but make sure the trans is balanced before you lower it. This thing weighs close to 150 lbs, don't drop or you wont have any fingers.

Also, it will take longer to install, always does.

I pulled the plastic cover off of the motor, pulled the dipstick and put a flattened cardboard box on the motor. This allows you to literally lay on top of the motor to get the top two bell housing bolts. These are the bolts that have a smaller head than the other bolts. In less than five minutes, I had the bolts out. They went back in just as easily. There is absolutely no need to take the top bolts out from underneath.

[IcemanBHE]

I dont think you can take them out from below. Youd need rubber orangutan arms.

[jjc034]

What are the tightening torque for reinstall? If someone would be able to share those, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
John

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[shogun]

from page 103, download it http://www.e38.org/bmw_torq.pdf

[jjc034]

from page 103, download it http://www.e38.org/bmw_torq.pdf

Appreciate it @shogun

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[jjc034]

I'm in the process of replacing my transmission and am running into a problem during reinstallation. I measured the torque converter clearance to 25mm and ensured that the screw holes were aligned on install. I've got the bellhousing and wiring bolted, but now I can't spin the crank. It feels like it's jammed in place.

Would someone please help me figure out how to rotate it to get the other 3 screws? I feel helpless and am so close to being done.

Thanks,
John

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[jjc034]

I'm in the process of replacing my transmission and am running into a problem during reinstallation. I measured the torque converter clearance to 25mm and ensured that the screw holes were aligned on install. I've got the bellhousing and wiring bolted, but now I can't spin the crank. It feels like it's jammed in place.

Would someone please help me figure out how to rotate it to get the other 3 screws? I feel helpless and am so close to being done.

Thanks,
John

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Figured it out. Had to remove again and push as hard as I could in, a little past 25mm. My bmw mechanic friend said:
1) push bellhousing into position
2) do a few bolts loosely to make sure converter and flex plate are aligned/you can still turn crank
3) do converter bolts
4) tighten bellhousing


As you tighten the converter bolts, it will self adjust to 25mm

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