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Thread: Rear Wheel Bearings = new (with pics)

  1. #1
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    Rear Wheel Bearings = new (with pics)

    Having just installed a reman'd drive shaft from www.driveshaftspecialist.com and a new, front mount for the Differential, I spent just over two hours yesterday installing new FAG rear wheel bearings http://www.eaceuroparts.com/ for parts.

    I read mmm635's thread as well as cdb3113 over the past year and have been meaning to get to this job. Like all things, it's about the tools! Having access to some high-test, Snap-On tools, a lift and some passion for your car and it's not a difficult job at all.

    1). The rear wheel bearings were surprisngly very easy. Shocker...both sides took 2 hrs 15 minutes. The hubs came off 20-30 slides with a beefy Snap-On Slide/Puller (see pics below).

    2). The bearing races cames off the hub and this is normal...so a notch ground into them with an air grinder...then that notch was used as an area for an Air Chisel to reside with in...and push it off (hub clamped down in a vise) within 15 seconds.

    3). Didn't have to remove theaxles(I just replaced both rear axles a few months ago) to gain access to the 4 bolts which hold the bearing in place (bolt heads are behind the backing plate). Just grab the outer CV boot on the axle and push it aside to remove the 4 bearing bolts.

    4). Then placed new wheel bearings on, Red-Loctite the 4 bolts, torqued them down (surprisingly the torque specs for them is less than you'd expect).

    5). Then put the hub onto the axle splines by hand just a tiny bit (grease the splines first to make it easier for you) and used a 4x4 block of wood and a 5lb. hammer to drive them home. Hold the axle from behind at it's outer CV so the axle is straight and in the same line as the hub which you are pounding in-place.

    6). Place outer axle nut on and tighten it very snug. Once the car is lowered on the ground you can tighten it to torque-spec which is a bearload of torque. Then use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to make to indentations on that axle nut so she can't back-off as you drive.

    Test drove car and it's very, very smooth, compliant and controlled. Quiet, very quiet.

    No more rumbling drive shaft as it is new and now a whipser quiet rear end complete with all-new control arms, ball joints, integral links, differential mount, diff seals, new diff fluid and now wheel bearings.

    The new (forward) rear differential mount is also for-the-win; I truly believe that mount/bushing is a beefier thrust arm bushing...in that it sits there and takes a lot of use, abuse and gives out slowly. I believe this mount is overlooked and should be one of the things all e39'ers look to-do near 100K miles, give or take.

    It was a good day for the car.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 05-18-2011 at 09:43 AM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  2. #2
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    Rear end went from 140K miles to 0 miles.

    More pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 05-18-2011 at 09:37 AM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  3. #3
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    Jason5driver tries sometimes to poke me for not getting suspension stuff done on my car. Meanwhile that mofo has 118K miles on every piece of his entire cooling system! Jason, get to work on your car! It's leaking power steering like Niagra Falls and it's gonna pop/over heat like Mars during the summer.

    Seriously though, I have one more to-do and that's springs and struts/shocks. Going with the less aggressive H&R and the new-style-valved (they are supposed to be less agressive than in the past) Bilstein Sports. Last pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 05-18-2011 at 09:25 AM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  4. #4
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    Hope that cures your issues!!!
    "If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"

  5. #5
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    Nice linesider.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnyost View Post
    Hope that cures your issues!!!
    My right shoulder had a nice workout, 30 reps of trying to throw a fastball within the 24" Snap-On slider.

    The teeny, tiny vibe I have above 70mph is now front strut mounts. I'm certain most would drive the car and say it's perfect. I want the KONI FSD's which currently reside in the rear of my car OUT.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnotherGeezer View Post
    Nice linesider.
    Thanks. That was Memorial Day weekend, last summer. There were five of us fishing and met our quota, 2 keepers per-person. We had Stripped Bass for dinner all summer.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  8. #8
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    george perppard is smoking a cigar saying, ' i love it when a plan comes together.'

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    ...Just grab the outer CV boot on the axle and push it aside to remove the 4 bearing bolts...
    I love this trick! This makes a huge difference.
    However, a warning to all who tries to do this: it does not matter you work on a Honda Accord FWD or E39 RWD, whenever you get near a CV joint rubber boot, take great care NOT to damage it.
    Once the rubber boot is damaged, you are in for something much bigger (replacing the boot is no fun!).
    Place a rag or something to keep the rubber boot away from the tool!

    Again, love this trick!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryb View Post
    george perppard is smoking a cigar saying, ' i love it when a plan comes together.'
    http://www.sitcomsonline.com/photopo...39/ateam27.jpg

    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    Jason5driver tries sometimes to poke me for not getting suspension stuff done on my car. Meanwhile that mofo has 118K miles on every piece of his entire cooling system! Jason, get to work on your car! It's leaking power steering like Niagra Falls and it's gonna pop/over heat like Mars during the summer.

    Seriously though, I have one more to-do and that's springs and struts/shocks. Going with the less aggressive H&R and the new-style-valved (they are supposed to be less aggressive than in the past) Bilstein Sports. Last pics:
    You have got it wrong.
    Stop spreading crap/ rumors...
    My fan clutch and water pump are the only original pieces.
    And, I am waiting for EMP to have more water-pumps in stock.
    My car has been on the back-burner due to personal issues that I prefer you not spreading around as well.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Jason5driver; 05-18-2011 at 12:48 PM.

  12. #12
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    Great write-up Bimmerfiver!! Glad you like the car even better.
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

  13. #13
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    Nothing wrong with getting your money's worth out of your car as long as you are comfortable with the condition of things and are not having problems. For my own car I do things as time and money allow. Sometimes even having the parts does me no good when I can't break away for a day to get them installed. Everyone has their own unique situation, and to me, it's just a car. My fan clutch has 176k miles on it IIRC, although it may have been replaced once when I first got the car but I doubt it. It's pretty low on the to-do list right now too. I've been considering going to an electric setup anyways.

    Good work on the rear wheel bearings Keith. Hopefully the car will keep you happy for a while now!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark@EAC View Post
    Nothing wrong with getting your money's worth out of your car as long as you are comfortable with the condition of things and are not having problems. For my own car I do things as time and money allow. Sometimes even having the parts does me no good when I can't break away for a day to get them installed. Everyone has their own unique situation, and to me, it's just a car. My fan clutch has 176k miles on it IIRC, although it may have been replaced once when I first got the car but I doubt it. It's pretty low on the to-do list right now too. I've been considering going to an electric setup anyways.

    Good work on the rear wheel bearings Keith. Hopefully the car will keep you happy for a while now!
    Thanks Mark...
    I also am thinking electric fan install...
    I already have a new fan shroud from you guys, sitting on my garage shelf (going to do the Alex method install...).
    Just waiting for you guys to have the EMP's in stock to order.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    Having just installed a reman'd drive shaft from www.driveshaftspecialist.com and a new, front mount for the Differential, I spent just over two hours yesterday installing new FAG rear wheel bearings http://www.eaceuroparts.com/ for parts.

    I read mmm635's thread as well as cdb3113 over the past year and have been meaning to get to this job. Like all things, it's about the tools! Having access to some high-test, Snap-On tools, a lift and some passion for your car and it's not a difficult job at all.

    1). The rear wheel bearings were surprisngly very easy. Shocker...both sides took 2 hrs 15 minutes. The hubs came off 20-30 slides with a beefy Snap-On Slide/Puller (see pics below).

    2). The bearing races cames off the hub and this is normal...so a notch ground into them with an air grinder...then that notch was used as an area for an Air Chisel to reside with in...and push it off (hub clamped down in a vise) within 15 seconds.

    3). Didn't have to remove theaxles(I just replaced both rear axles a few months ago) to gain access to the 4 bolts which hold the bearing in place (bolt heads are behind the backing plate). Just grab the outer CV boot on the axle and push it aside to remove the 4 bearing bolts.

    4). Then placed new wheel bearings on, Red-Loctite the 4 bolts, torqued them down (surprisingly the torque specs for them is less than you'd expect).

    5). Then put the hub onto the axle splines by hand just a tiny bit (grease the splines first to make it easier for you) and used a 4x4 block of wood and a 5lb. hammer to drive them home. Hold the axle from behind at it's outer CV so the axle is straight and in the same line as the hub which you are pounding in-place.

    6). Place outer axle nut on and tighten it very snug. Once the car is lowered on the ground you can tighten it to torque-spec which is a bearload of torque. Then use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to make to indentations on that axle nut so she can't back-off as you drive.

    Test drove car and it's very, very smooth, compliant and controlled. Quiet, very quiet.

    No more rumbling drive shaft as it is new and now a whipser quiet rear end complete with all-new control arms, ball joints, integral links, differential mount, diff seals, new diff fluid and now wheel bearings.

    The new (forward) rear differential mount is also for-the-win; I truly believe that mount/bushing is a beefier thrust arm bushing...in that it sits there and takes a lot of use, abuse and gives out slowly. I believe this mount is overlooked and should be one of the things all e39'ers look to-do near 100K miles, give or take.

    It was a good day for the car.
    Where can you get the socket for the collar nut?
    Found it at Sears. $9
    Last edited by occhis; 06-13-2011 at 11:01 PM.

  16. #16
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    Nice write up...I'll be doing this shortly!
    BMWCCA #389756
    e39 Touring SOLD.

  17. #17
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    way Keith , very nice
    +1 on rear differential mount

    Last edited by champaign777; 08-14-2011 at 11:21 AM.

  18. #18
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    so i joined to the club last night !

    1) I took bimmerfimer idea how to remove 4 bolts which hold bearing from the inside ,- excellent i think this is the KEY to all the rest !
    2) I removed parking brakes to have more access
    3) I used LARGE bearing separator , i think it is much easy to use than jaw puller + a lot of WD40

    i used video from 3-series posted by CNN for reference , they have another configuration but the same idea
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=wKYL9_4mXRI






    all failed apart





    now how to install them ...



    what kind of grease do you guys use for axle/bearing installation ?
    Last edited by champaign777; 09-06-2011 at 10:38 PM.

  19. #19
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    During install, just use appropriate large socket to drive the new bearing into the hub.
    - Just drive the INNER Race of the new bearing (with the correct socket).
    - The new bearing does not have to be 100% in, partially in is fine, then once th 36-mm nut is tightened, the bearing will be seated in.

    - Don't know about BMW, but my 1998 Volvo V70 procedure calls for "metal adhesive" (Something like Loctite!) for the spline before tightening the 36-mm.
    Most Volvo gurus recommend against Loctite because at the next removal, it will be very very difficult to remove the hub because the Loctite makes it very sticky.
    Instead the Volvo gurus recommend antiseize for the splines. Glad I listened to these Volvo gurus when I did my Volvo CV Boot in 2008 because I recently removed my Volvo Axle again in 2011 for something else; it was a breeze, very easy to seprate the hub from the Axle Splines.

    - So my 2 cents is: antiseize for the Axle splines.
    Last edited by cnn; 08-14-2011 at 12:12 PM.

  20. #20
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    cool, thank guru i have antiseize

    This rear bearing is NOT a basic job ...



    now i have another task - i need to remove inner part of bearing left on my hub ...
    any idea how to press it out except of heating ?

    Last edited by champaign777; 08-14-2011 at 03:00 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
    ...Now i have another task - i need to remove inner part of bearing left on my hub ...
    Any idea how to press it out except of heating?...
    1. The proper way: Bearing Puller.
    Advance Autoparts has these tools for rent, so it is free.
    Here are the pics from "mmm635" thread:
    http://picasaweb.google.com/mmm525i/...nsionInstall02


    2. The "barbaric" way of using "Angle Grinder":
    - Wear eyes protection.
    - Just about when the Angle Grinder's Cutting Wheel almost cuts through, STOP to avoid damage to the hub. Then use a cold chisel to chisel it out.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=17

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=529396
    Last edited by cnn; 08-14-2011 at 03:38 PM.

  22. #22
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    cool CNN
    looks like I missed this part
    trip to Advance Autoparts

    EDIT :
    harbor freight is the place where i found it

    with the right tool it can be done, thank to Michel and CNN !







    one tip
    go to dealer and buy new design bolts which bolt rear axle to differencial
    they are shorter and twice as lighter, my BMW guru said rear feels much better with them



    now the real question is about a new installation
    how to drive shaft into the hub ?
    dont really want to use any hammer here , no another method ??

    "Bolt in place new bearing , slot hub on to drive shaft splines and gently squarely until you can get the driveshaft nut on use a block of wood so you can tap it on in the centre of the hub"
    WTF The "barbaric" way ?
    Last edited by champaign777; 08-14-2011 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  23. #23
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    Whatever you do, do not damage the inner race.

    #1:
    - Install the bearing and tighten the Torx bolts.
    - Do NOT drive the Hub in as is, first slide the Axle Splines in so it is up against the Inner Race of the bearing.
    - Then slide the Hub in gently over the Inner Race, then STOP. Do not hammer too heavily it in because you will damage the bearing.
    - Then use the 36-mm to tighten it down.

    #2:
    - This is exactly how my 1998 Volvo V70 is done.
    The bearing and Hub is one Unit.
    - So it is OK to use #2 as well. The key thing is to drive the Inner Race onto the Hub using the socket whose diameter is the same as the Inner Race.
    - Then install the Hub/Bearing combo using the 36-mm nut to tighten it down.

    Conceptually, the REAR bearing of the E39 is virtually identical to the FRONT Bearing of the FWD of a 1998 Volvo S/V70.

    - In the Volvo, you don't have a choice to buy the Bearing alone, it comes from factory as a Hub+Bearing Combo pre-installed.
    - In the Volvo situation, the Hub+Bearing Combo is installed first (Same Torx bolts as in BMW E39).
    - Then slide the drive shaft in and tighten it down with the 36-mm nut. Here is the Volvo Link:

    http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_...placement.html

  24. #24
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    just to synchronize

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=522159

    awesome feeling with a new bearings

    many thanks to Cam for support !!
    Last edited by champaign777; 08-18-2011 at 12:48 PM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    ...
    3). Didn't have to remove theaxles(I just replaced both rear axles a few months ago) to gain access to the 4 bolts which hold the bearing in place (bolt heads are behind the backing plate). Just grab the outer CV boot on the axle and push it aside to remove the 4 bearing bolts.
    ...
    Do you have picture of this trick?
    How did you get the E Torx socket in that tight space without removing half-shaft, or pushing the half-shaft inward?

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