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Thread: (Almost) free DIY ADS interface

  1. #501
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    You don't need to edit EDIABAS.ini unless you are using INPA as a basis to support DIS. There is also a lot of misinformation circulating about OBD.ini - this file is not required for INPA v4.4.7(aka v3.01)/EDIABAS v6.4.3, it is only required for later versions of EDIABAS (i.e. v6.4.7 and up). The problem with your car is that it is a pre-EWS model and INPA does not contain the necessary files for these cars, you will have to use DIS v44 in order to get coverage.
    Last edited by David Mc; 11-12-2017 at 02:23 AM.

  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mc View Post
    You don't need to edit EDIABAS.ini unless you are using INPA as a basis to support DIS. There is also a lot of misinformation circulating about OBD.ini - this file is not required for INPA v4.4.7(aka v3.01)/EDIABAS v6.4.3, it is only required for later versions of EDIABAS (i.e. v6.4.7 and up). The problem with your car is that it is a pre-EWS model and INPA does not contain the necessary files for these cars, you will have to use DIS v44 in order to get coverage.
    My car does have EWS. I know 1995 is an odd year for EWS but my master key has a chip and build date is 09/95 so I know it was one of the last 325i's of the E36 generation.

    Edit~~ I just noticed your PM. Thank You

  3. #503
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    OK, obviously a MY1996 (build date actually commenced in 1995). You should be fine with INPA v4.4.7/EDIABAS v6.4.3 (make sure you only have one instance of INPA installed).

  4. #504
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    Thank you so much for posting this DIY! After a lot of struggling getting INPA to run, I managed to connect to my gauge cluster on the workbench

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mc View Post
    You don't need to edit EDIABAS.ini unless you are using INPA as a basis to support DIS. There is also a lot of misinformation circulating about OBD.ini - this file is not required for INPA v4.4.7(aka v3.01)/EDIABAS v6.4.3, it is only required for later versions of EDIABAS (i.e. v6.4.7 and up). The problem with your car is that it is a pre-EWS model and INPA does not contain the necessary files for these cars, you will have to use DIS v44 in order to get coverage.
    This is incorrect, there are some files out there that allow for the lack of EWSII so you can use an ADS interface to connect to the 325 engine with INPA.

    Search for Mistreku.zip
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  6. #506
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    I have those files, which are an edited version of factory INPA files and have limited application. They are designed to run primarily on Tool32 rather than INPA as in order to create them, the usual INPA/EDIABAS job telegram protocol is interrupted.
    Last edited by David Mc; 11-28-2017 at 07:21 PM.

  7. #507
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    I've had INPA+Tiny ADS Interface working perfectly on an old PC of mine since I last posted (Thank You SO Much, David MC). Unfortunately I'm entirely unable to achieve my goal of reading error codes for the GM 4L30 Auto Trans in my 95' E36. Has anyone else successfully done this? Do I need some special files? I've searched forever and have totally hit a wall.

  8. #508
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    Thank You

    Found this thread while i was searching for ads adapter. It is 2018 and i can confirm that the schematic from beneromous works great (post #1) for my RHD 94 E36 MT (m50) i’m able to read all the modules with DME also (MS 40.1)..thanks guys..

    bmw_inpa1.jpg
    bmw_inpa2.jpg
    bmw_inpa3.jpg
    Last edited by lorensiuswlt; 08-07-2023 at 11:16 PM.

  9. #509
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    Im trying to make your stripboard version of the serial<->obd connector:


    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...terface/page21
    post #508


    The problem is I cant figure out where pin 17/20 should go, i think it might be A6.
    But there is no 22kOhm resistor on your stripboard picture.


    Could it be that you linked multiple resistors to mimic a 22kohm with these:?
    1K->1K->10k->pin17/20->10k


    And is it ok to have pin 17/20 in between the resistors instead of after a 22kohm?

  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by klaas View Post
    The problem is I cant figure out where pin 17/20 should go, i think it might be A6.
    Previous post updated.

    (I did link multiple resistors as it was cheaper for the quantity of other I have bought not to buy 20K or 22K. You coulduse a 22k from C3 - H6 I think)
    Last edited by E36328Coupe; 04-17-2018 at 02:12 PM.
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  11. #511
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    Hi,


    I have a question regarding the LED's/diodes you have added:


    The diodes D4 and D5 are connected trough the 1K resistors R2 en R3 as in the original schema of benemorius.


    I would like to also add the diodes D2 for DSR and D3 for DTR to this original schema/circuit.


    I see that you changed the resistors connected to those to different resistance values:




    R4 (connected to D2/DSR) is a 1K resistor instead of a 10K resistor in the original design
    R6 (connected to D3/DTR) is a 1K resistor and there was no resistor in between the 12V line.


    Can i add/change those 2 resistors to 1K resistors in the original design too? Or is this only possible in your design.


    Actually, all resistor you use are 1K and some are not in the original desing, could you explain why those different resistor values work too?


    regards,
    Klaas

  12. #512
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    Let me have a review and get back to you.

    I will say that I derived this from the diagram on page 1 so I have not altered any values from page 1 parts list, merely inserted two LEDs and "hoped" the volt drop did not alter how the circuit worked. Most people saturate (maybe wrong word) transistors to switch them over hard so I expected it would not and did not for me.

    Pleas reference the post and page numbers you are referring to.
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  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by klaas View Post
    Hi,


    I have a question regarding the LED's/diodes you have added:


    The diodes D4 and D5 are connected trough the 1K resistors R2 en R3 as in the original schema of benemorius.


    I would like to also add the diodes D2 for DSR and D3 for DTR to this original schema/circuit.


    I see that you changed the resistors connected to those to different resistance values:




    R4 (connected to D2/DSR) is a 1K resistor instead of a 10K resistor in the original design
    R6 (connected to D3/DTR) is a 1K resistor and there was no resistor in between the 12V line.


    Can i add/change those 2 resistors to 1K resistors in the original design too? Or is this only possible in your design.


    Actually, all resistor you use are 1K and some are not in the original desing, could you explain why those different resistor values work too?


    regards,
    Klaas
    Quote Originally Posted by E36328Coupe View Post
    Let me have a review and get back to you.

    I will say that I derived this from the diagram on page 1 so I have not altered any values from page 1 parts list, merely inserted two LEDs and "hoped" the volt drop did not alter how the circuit worked. Most people saturate (maybe wrong word) transistors to switch them over hard so I expected it would not and did not for me.

    Please reference the post and page numbers you are referring to.
    I think you are getting confused.
    I have not changed any resistor values from the page 1, post 1 diagram, though the 20K and the 22K are made from multiple resistors as mentioned before.
    There are no diodes at all in post 1 page 1, and I have just added 2 LEDs to monitor the K line and L line.
    I do not know where D4 and D5 refs come from.

    From a quick look R4 is still 10K
    If R6 is the 22K we discussed this before on PM

    What I would say is why deviate from the original working pattern that is easy to follow? You may introduce problems and not be able to solve them.

    It would be much easier to take a working pattern, make it and validate it works and then modify it afterwards to avoid errors and confusion and know what introduced those errors and how to remove them.

    I have built 4 from this diagram and pattern of cut tracks and all have worked first time. First 2 without any diodes. If it doesn't work I would say it is because you have done something else.

    Additionally the diodes you describe adding would check the serial port side, you can usually assume that works. Serial 6 DSR just tells you the ignition live is being reported to the COM port. Ignition live is pretty immaterial to whether diags work or not.
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  14. #514
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    Hi!

    Anybody has a board draw for the CHIPLESS version? I would like to build the circuit, but I dont know how i draw the circuit onto the board. Somone pls help! thanks!

  15. #515
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    Hi!

    Could you please show me a pic of your board? Both sides. I would like to build it but I don't have the draw about the circuit for the board :/ thanks!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by lorensiuswlt View Post
    Found this thread while i was searching for ads adapter. It is 2018 and i can confirm that the schematic from beneromous works great (post #1) for my RHD 94 E36 MT (m50) i’m able to read all the modules with DME also (MS 40.1)..thanks guys..



    Hi!

    Could you please show me a pic of your board? Both sides. I would like to build it but I don't have the draw about the circuit for the board :/ thanks!

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36328Coupe View Post
    I think you are getting confused.
    I have not changed any resistor values from the page 1, post 1 diagram, though the 20K and the 22K are made from multiple resistors as mentioned before.
    There are no diodes at all in post 1 page 1, and I have just added 2 LEDs to monitor the K line and L line.
    I do not know where D4 and D5 refs come from.

    From a quick look R4 is still 10K
    If R6 is the 22K we discussed this before on PM

    What I would say is why deviate from the original working pattern that is easy to follow? You may introduce problems and not be able to solve them.

    It would be much easier to take a working pattern, make it and validate it works and then modify it afterwards to avoid errors and confusion and know what introduced those errors and how to remove them.

    I have built 4 from this diagram and pattern of cut tracks and all have worked first time. First 2 without any diodes. If it doesn't work I would say it is because you have done something else.

    Additionally the diodes you describe adding would check the serial port side, you can usually assume that works. Serial 6 DSR just tells you the ignition live is being reported to the COM port. Ignition live is pretty immaterial to whether diags work or not.
    Hi,
    Im sorry, i should have quoted to what i was replying to, i was asking this question to HansV and its referring to the MKII HansV version of the circuit.
    He seems to have replaced the 10K resistor R16 in the original/benemorius design with a 1K transistor at R4 in the MKII design.
    And i suspected if i added a LED there it hardly would light up.

    Also i have asked you in a PM what your 2 led (k/lline) should show when plugging the obd in the car without serial connected (so no laptop and also cable not yet soldered to board).

    When i plug my adapter in with keys out of the car only the LLine led goes on, the Kline stays out (as far as i can see)
    If i switch ignition on then this stays the same, only some slight flickering of the LLine led.

    Is this normal?

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireball1991 View Post
    Hi!

    Could you please show me a pic of your board? Both sides. I would like to build it but I don't have the draw about the circuit for the board :/ thanks!

    - - - Updated - - -



    Hi!

    Could you please show me a pic of your board? Both sides. I would like to build it but I don't have the draw about the circuit for the board :/ thanks!
    You do know I did that in post 508 that I sent you the link for days ago don't you?
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  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by klaas View Post
    Also i have asked you in a PM what your 2 led (k/lline) should show when plugging the obd in the car without serial connected (so no laptop and also cable not yet soldered to board).

    When i plug my adapter in with keys out of the car only the LLine led goes on, the Kline stays out (as far as i can see)
    If i switch ignition on then this stays the same, only some slight flickering of the LLine led.

    Is this normal?


    thisone.JPG
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  19. #519
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    Hi E36328Coupe,

    As you requested in the PM here some pictures of my stripboard and connectors:

    stripboard.jpg
    stripboardbackside.jpg
    On the left the board in front of a lamp so its easier to see the cutouts and also if i did not accidentally bridged the lines on the stripboard. There are 3 possible bridger visible but these are ok, if i hold the board a bit more diagonal its visible there are no bridges.
    serialconnector.jpg
    I included the male/female serial diagram as it seems that the pinouts of the female connector are opposite.
    I have connected the wires of the board to the pinouts numbers as the female serial diagram describes instead of the male.
    So it might be possible i have connected the wires wrong.
    obdconnector.jpg
    On the right side the wirecolors overlayed on a photo the actual obd port of my car

    I have the following symptoms:
    - Only LLine (yellow) LED ever comes on (also without laptop disconnected)
    - When i connect the laptop i get no battery dot, and when i turn on ignition i get no ignition dot
    - The LLine LED goes on and off twice when i try to connect to Engine (DME 3.31 M50 2.5 I), same happens when i try to access the instrument cluster or anything at all.
    - Get an error: IFH-00010 DATATRANSMISSION TO CONTROLUNIT DISTURBED, which also happens when laptop is not connected to car, so this is a very generic error and it seems to me there has no data been sent or received at all.
    - I have put a 9V battery on the serial port of my laptop: + connected to pin 9/RI, - connected to pin5/Ground and then both the battery and ignition dots go ON/black in INPA. Which leads me to believe my INPA with ADS correctly setup and i have no missing pin 9 (reported for Dell D610 or D600 i think, read this somewhere).
    Also the LLine led starting to turn on and off lead me to believe INPA can communicate through the serial connector.
    - I think i might have attached the serial wires exactly the opposite to the board and i think this is why the battery dot is not turning on in INPA. This is due to that fact that i followed the female pinout, can you confirm this?
    - I think i then still will have a problem because the green Kline led should come on when i connect the obd connector without the laptop attached as you showed in the previous post. Can you check my obd port wiring and stripboard for any errors? I have checked that all pins of the serial and obd connector give current to the strip board and i have also checked that all resistors and transistors are making contact with the copper on the stripboard. I have also checked for any short circuits between the copper on the stripboard and there seem to be none.

    My INPA installation is as follows:

    - INPA version: insprog.exe reports 4.4.7 , the INPA.ini file says version 3.02 (so i think this is inpa 4.4.7)
    - EDIABAS 6.4.3
    - Harddisk formatted (full) and fresh installation of Windows XP SP3 32Bit
    - Fresh installation of INPA and EDIABAS
    - Laptop: Dell D430 with docking station that has serial port
    - This whole setup is never used on anything else before, just this board i made

    Installation:
    - execute instprog.exe
    - Installed with rectification program UK and selected ADS (not OBD), and installed just EDIABAS and INPA
    - Set the environment variable PATH: addes C:\EDIABAS\BIN
    - restarted laptop
    - Executed ADSSETUP.exe and restarted again
    - EDIABAS.INI shows: "Interface = ADS"

    So in short, i think i have a serial wires in exact opposite because i used the female pinout
    I have the feeling something else is wrong as the Kline led instead of the LLine LEd is lighting up when connecting the board without the laptop connected.
    Though this might be because my ECU/car hardware is in some other state as yours. Also maybe it could be because i have a european E36 325I from 1994?

    regards,
    Klaas

  20. #520
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    Also, as can be seen on the obd connector i used a cat5e cable. This is aprox 4 meters long, i hope this is not to long but im quite confident this should be ok because this has solid core copper wires and is shielded.

  21. #521
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    Actually, having a better look it seems the serial wires are connected properly..

    This is what the numbers on my serial connector say:

    serialbetter.JPG

  22. #522
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    OK so back to basics, most of the board looks OK.

    Lets start with battery detection

    If you have D19 to S5 (ground)

    And

    D14 to S9

    Bear in mind these are the straight rails top and bottom of the board

    Then you have a basic power / wiring or serial port / INPA issue.

    So, check those pins in the car socket are live and earth as they should be

    THEN check that those pins are live and earth at the serial as they should be.


    That sound right?


    (No idea why you added the black wire to the case of the serial port. This is unneeded.
    Also by soldering in all the wires including unneeded ones it's hard to see clearly what is happening.
    Last edited by E36328Coupe; 06-12-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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  23. #523
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    Hi the black wire was already on there, so i left it.

    I have done one check more.

    If i plug my board in the serial port of the laptop and connect a 9V battery to the obd connector:

    + to pin 14
    - to pin 19 (ground)

    Then the battery dot switches black on INPA.
    And the KLine LED switched on (which i was missing also)
    So that works correctly.

    So i then i must be missing 12V on pin 14 or ground pin 19 in the port of the car right?

    I will measure the port of my car tomorrow.

    Last year i asked an indy garage to read out some stuff of my car, and when i asked about it i kind of got a weird apply.
    I wonder if they might have caused a fuse to break
    Last edited by klaas; 06-12-2018 at 04:09 PM.

  24. #524
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    Also you need to run adssetup from the command prompt and look at the output, not double click it.
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  25. #525
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    Yep i did that

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