Came off with a 2 jaw puller for anyone interested
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Anyone have cliffs notes on how to do this?
i have a e46 4 bolt 188 that I’m looking to swap to a 6 bolt 188. I at least want the 3.38 gears out of the e46 188
I’m going to put my lsd “kit” in and use the 3.38 gears. Does anyone know if I can just transfer the internals from the 3.38 diff to my stock 4 bolt diff?
Pretty sure you are going to have to set up the entire diff. Set pinion depth, preload, backlash... replace all the bearings and crush sleeve... might as well add another clutch for 40% lock...
if you have micrometers, and shimms, a dial indicator, you can do it.
No matter where you go, there you are...
You have to replace the ring and pinion. That means a new crush sleeve. You have to build the diff. See
https://www.thayermotorsports.com/ap...a-differential
No matter where you go, there you are...
Done right, swapping input flanges is much easier. Adding a clutch is also relatively easy. There are even DIYs. But setting up a diff is on another level. I have never done one but would like to.
If you are removing the ring and pinion and putting it in another case, you are setting up a diff. There is ZERO chance of installing it correctly with no setup.
Yes, you can swap an input flange, and that is pretty simple, although you have to watch the preload.
Last edited by RRSperry; 10-24-2019 at 09:12 AM.
No matter where you go, there you are...
2020 Bump.
Thayer Motorsports only sells through Amazon and hasn't responded to any of my inquiries over nearly two weeks. No phone number. No way to contact them whatsoever. I'm not keen on sending $300 to a faceless company if I have a problem with the product.
Racing Diffs makes a kit but has to come from across the pond, would rather not wait 3-4 weeks to get the parts if I don't have to.
Diffsonline wants over double the price for 3 clutches, dog plates and new bolts.
Are there any other viable cost/time effective options other than using the Porsche parts?
Past: '99 Hellrot/Dove M3 | '97 S14 1JZ | '06 Triumph Daytona 675 | '01 330I M-Tech I | '99 Silvia S15 | Current: '96 Estoril/Black M3
When I went down this path I thought I could do it. Got parts and all sorts of other stuff. When push came to shove I had Wanganstyle build me what I wanted and have been super pleased with the work as well as the price. What is your issue with the Porsche parts. Think they are from the same supplier.
ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"
I bought from racingdiffs thru eBay twice and it was delivered within 7 days...
Bought a 2.93 off of Craigslist and a 3 disk kit from Thayer about 6 years ago which I am finally getting around to installing.
IÂ’ve got the carrier dismantled and cleaned and seems to look OK (I have virtually no automotive/mechanical experience so if itÂ’s not googleable IÂ’m pretty much useless) no metal bits or rust etcÂ…. But IÂ’m stalled on a few points I havenÂ’t been able to figure out.
Using this as my guide: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...82601360695900
Also this YouTube vid: https://youtu.be/pVG-RUfXo4Q
Both mention measuring the housing and depth. My housing is approx 104 and cover is 21. Difference is the same 83mm for internals so IÂ’m assuming this is OK?
Two of the dog ear plates from Thayer are 1.90mm but the third is only 1.54 and seems significantly lighter even when factoring in the thinner metal. Question is should I re-use one of the old dog ears or put this smaller one inÂ… and maybe make up the difference with another shim somewhere? Old dogs measure 1.99 and 2.08 respectively. The 2.08 seems to be 1.94 where it is warm closer to the centre. This is my first time using a micrometer so might be a bit of user error🤷
Old friction plates are 1.97, out of curiosity how much life do you figure is left given those friction plate numbers?
I also have another carrier (with a bent Speedo sensor tab) and a bit of rust on the main ring. Poked in far enough to check the first friction plateÂ… also appears to be 1.97mm. Once I sort out my keeper diff IÂ’ll be looking to move this carrier onto a new home.
Have lots of pics can upload some when I get back to the laptop.
It should be very straight forward, I'm not sure why all the different measurements on the thayer parts. The OE clutch discs and dog ears are 2.0mm each. The spacer at the bottom is 4mm. So if you're installing a third clutch you should just be replacing the bottom 4mm spacer w/ another 2.0mm clutch disc and 2.0mm dog ear. All you should need is three new 2.0 clutch discs and three new 2.0mm dog ears, such as these:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...m/92833255100/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/91733255211/
or these
https://racingdiffs.com/collections/...d-clutch-packs
you could also buy custom pressure plate set from racingdiffs or diffsonline if want the lockup on decel to be less w/ the added 3rd clutch. I used the 30/60 ramp.
https://racingdiffs.com/collections/...33487995732103
https://diffsonline.com/custom-ramps...l#.YWjO8drMKUk
Yes with the emphasis on “should” the big spacer is 4mm but with the undersized dog ear I only have 3.5mm of material to replace it with. So is it better to match a new (undersized) dog ear with a new plate or an old dog ear with the new plate. Maybe an inbetween would be machine down the old dog ear so it’s more flat? I guess the best answer is order a new plate but I’m Canada and was hoping to get this done sooner than later🤷
Interesting on the pressure plate for a different decel lock up…. It’s probably out of the budget though. I’m strictly driving street with the emphasis on winter traction. If it gave me better performance in snow I may consider it.
I see.. that's a bit of a dilemma. Obviously would be best to get all new correct parts but they aren't cheap for what they are. One thing I will note is once you get all the parts and start to put the LSD back together you'll probably think you did something wrong because it's very hard to get the cap back on w/ all the tension stacked up. Just take is slow and walk it in and it'll squash.
One other thing of note is there is a small chance I mixed up the retainers and thus the spacers on the output flanges. I'd hate to go through all this effort and mess the whole thing up from something that silly. What is it that I have to measure to make sure the spacers are correct. I've narrowed it down to either carrier preload and/or backlash. Talked to a local transmission shop and they should be able to help me out but would be great to know what I should prioritize they check... maybe just give them all these? I'm assuming the pinion preload is the least likely to have changed.
Ring and Pinion Backlash = 0.06mm to 0.14mm (0.0024in to 0.0055in - Metric Mechanic believes ideal backlash is 0.003in to 0.0035in, which falls well within the BMW TIS limits)
Pinion Preload = ~12in-lbs to 23in-lbs according to TIS (Metric Mechanic claims 14in-lbs to 16in-lbs)
Carrier Preload = ~11in-lbs to 23in-lbs according to TIS (Metric Mechanic claims 9in-lbs to 11in-lbs)
So I ordered this kit: BMW E30 325e M20 2.7L Drivetrain Differential - 33101210518KT - Differential Gasket Set (ecstuning.com) seems kinda pricey for what it is... is there any reason to change anything other than the main output flange O-rings? maybe I should try to return it as I already have the O-rings from my original thayer order. What is the failure rate on those other gaskets? Is it an if it ain't broke don't fix it kind of thing?
Last edited by iski123; 10-20-2021 at 05:22 PM.
So the plot thickens a little!
I've reassembled the carrier using Thayers detailed instructions and they INTENTIONALLY included a thinner outside dog ear spacer. Anyone else use one of these kits before or can speak to why they made the kits to take up a little less space than the stock 4mm spacer? Seems like they knew what they were doing but I'm still a little nervous just throwing this thing in and using it as is. Also noticed the disks and dog ears are different than the stock parts, they must have had them custom machined. Don't have the MuB lettering stamp and have sharper edges.
edit: not sure why my photos aren't linking properly
https://i.imgur.com/uaIqlmf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SmaAHAv.png
Last edited by iski123; 10-20-2021 at 06:07 PM.
The thread that won't die....a detailed question.
Short version: 2 clutch to 3 clutch conversion; does the stack of friction/dogplates on each side of the LSD carrier have to be exactly same thickness? Is 1.5mm difference a problem?
Long version: My previous rebuilt diff was a 3 clutch. But the builder seems to have used 1.5mm thick friction and dogear plates on the side of the diff where one removes the 4mm spacer to add the 3rd clutch. Which would reduce pre-load from the OEM of 4mm to 2.5mm. That's fine. But, it would also move the carrier (and thus spider gears) off center by 1.5mm. This would seem to be fine to me (as long as the axle end and spider gear overlap enough). Correct?
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