E39 Electrical Problem - An Yes Searched and Read Past Posts

[ronfrohock]

So here’s the deal. Yes I did a fair amount of searching on this wonderful forum and I think I have narrowed my problem down to two possible solutions.
Either the Ignition Switch of the Instrument Panel.

Please offer your opinion.

2003 E39 Auto 95K Miles

Car started and ran no problem. While driving, I put the gear selector into the sport side and the IP did not change. Hmmmmm..
Next, I stopped and shut the car off. Engine not running and key out. Tach needle remained at 3K, random lights remained on in the IP.
The daytime running lights would not shut off. The remote leys lock would not unlock the doors or open the doors, etc…….
Biggest problem was that the car would not re-start. (Keep in mind, the IP indicator showed that the car was in drive – even with the key removed…..)

I ended up disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnected it. Problem solved.

I drove home, scoured the section and found many threads about faulty ignition switches. I did the visor trick and did not see any weird results.

I also read on the BBA- Reman website that it could be the instrument panel.

What do you experts think?

Should I just go ahead and replace the Ignition SW?

Any firsthand knowledge out there?

Thanks
- Ron

[edjack]

The visor trick is to be used at the time of the weird behavior. I'd wait until it happens again, and then try the visor. That will confirm the ignition switch.

I always like to have a little more validation before throwing parts at a problem.

Measure the battery voltage after a night's rest. S/b 12.5+. These cars are sensitive to battery voltage, and do strange things when it dips below 11V.

While you're at it, measure the voltage when the engine is running at a fast idle. S/b 14+.

[jfmjr442]

How old is your battery? These cars will do crazy things when there isn't enough juice. Search unlock OBC and run Test 9 to see how your battery and alternator charging systems are working. That is where I would begin.

As for the locks, check fuse 54 IIRC in the trunk on the battery side. Does the fuel door lock when the car is locked. There are known issues with furl door actuator that will malfunction and then cause the remote not to work because fuel door actuator blew fuse 54.

after that, i would look into the ignition switch BTDT

HTH

John

PS Edjack beat me to it

[ronfrohock]

Charging system is fine.
I ended up removing the ignition switch this evening. Took it apart and found that there was some evidence of thermal failure.
I replaced it with an oem part from the dealer and fingers are crossed.
I have to say that I am so impressed with this forum and want to thank you both for the time it took to respond to my request.
I will update this if I have any problems going forward.
Thanks so much!
- Ron