1998 BMW 528i Brake Hydraulic System Overhaul (6 Hoses, Caliper Seals/Boot)

[cnn]

cnn, did you eventually end up finding it necessary to cycle the ABS pump solenoids as that article states?

I have replacements for these two in-between hoses in hand, planning to install them this week. I did the rest of the system not so long back, these were the two things I left out.

The 2 in-between hoses:

- They are downstream from the ABS Unit, so no need to cycle the ABS Unit.
The only time to need to cycle the ABS Unit is when air enters the ABS Unit.

- Make sure that the reservoir is close to Max.

[pleiades]

The 2 in-between hoses:

- They are downstream from the ABS Unit, so no need to cycle the ABS Unit.
The only time to need to cycle the ABS Unit is when air enters the ABS Unit.

- Make sure that the reservoir is close to Max.

Many thanks! I am relieved that I -should- be able to avoid a costly trip to the dealer after doing this.

[Only1Balto]

Great write up. I blew out one of my Mid lines and wanted to replace both of them. I got the upper hose off fine- but the bottom one slipped and I ended up bending and puncturing the lower Mid line.... what are my options? Does anyone have a illustrated parts break down w/ the part number of the line?

In this photo- it is the metal line that the wrenches are NOT attached to. I bent it at the bottom- away from the ABS mod.

[cnn]

Great write up. I blew out one of my Mid lines and wanted to replace both of them. I got the upper hose off fine- but the bottom one slipped and I ended up bending and puncturing the lower Mid line.... what are my options? Does anyone have a illustrated parts break down w/ the part number of the line?

In this photo- it is the metal line that the wrenches are NOT attached to. I bent it at the bottom- away from the ABS mod.

Balto,

You have a few options:

1. Get the line from BMW. Use realoem.com to look up PN.
Ask local dealer for help looking it up.

2. Track the line to the rear of the car to see how long it is. If you can remove it, then take the whole length to local autoparts store, they may be able to make a new one for you.

3. Repair it, but you have to learn how to double-flare. If you decide to do this, then the repair should be under the body rather than at the broken point because there is no room there to install the tool to do double-flare.

[Only1Balto]

Thanks so much CNN for your options. I was thinking of taking the car to a brake and muffler shop in hopes that they'd be able to repair it at the break (Where you said the tool wouldn't fit).


I just wanted to make sure I was correct. In this IPB- is whats broken on my car item number 18? Is the price what I should expect to pay when I go to the dealership? Thanks so much for the link. Its an awesome website. I can't believe how easy it is to navigate. I'm loving owning a BMW more and more.

[cnn]

I took this photo from an E39 M5 (see attached pic), which has similar brake lines as the V8 or I6. You can see the brake lines running all the way from the engine to the back near the fuel tank.

As mentioned,

1. Ask your local dealer (bring along photos of the problem) for proper PN.
My guess is around $50, I may be wrong.

2. The other option is to cut the line just about where it leaves the engine compartment to go under the car.
Do the double-flare and buy a short section of new line and bend it to fit.
Don't throw away the existing nut!
Also, before doing the double-flare, insert the nut in the proper orientation first!

3. In the mean time, cap the end with rubber gloves/rubber band etc., you don't want debris to enter the hydraulic system.

[JetBlackE46]

What is the adapter on the air hose? Do you just press that against the hole?

[DennisG01]

[QUOTE=JetBlackE46;29097776]What is the adapter on the air hose? Do you just press that against the hole?
/QUOTE]

Yes, that's just a rubber blow gun tip.