VANOS timing without special tool?

[White Knuckles2]

Oh man, I thought you guys were discussing your basic vanos procedure. OP talked about removing the piston from the vanos with "Vanos timing ..." as the tittle. I was thinking, wow, I've never spotted this reading about vanos seal swaps, this looks tricky. I imagined having to drop the cam chain to access something vanos-ish. Yikes! I'm simply replacing seals or unit per Dr.Vanos.

oops! I should have caught he was the hydro-locked guy going deep. Back to easy street for me. Appreciate clarification for the inept.

[dmeEngeNeer]

[jwoodman]

I'm having trouble getting my cams timed correct. I have read several threads, but I feel there seems to be something missing. I'm having trouble after getting everything in place and using the vanos as an adjustment tool when I start to turn the engine over 2 times the primary chain moves first about 1/2" or so before the other chain moves therefore when I stop at TDC the cams are not where they are supposed to be. I know this is incorrect however I dont know where to go from here.
Please Help
Thanks in advance

[marlo086]

Tools:

Two small common vise blocks for clamping the cam square ends; not too long since the EX side does not have much room by the left wall, and not too short since this loose accuracy.

To make a solid primary chain tensioner, pull the spring loaded piston and spring off the unit, and insert an appropriate length cigar into the cylinder and replace the piston, then you have it – a special solid tensioner!! I don’t smoke so I used a right size socket for the cigar spacer.

Torx external sockets and internal drive bits.

Rotate the crank pulley to TDC – my California clean car still have the red TDC line on the pulley clear, so it’s very easy to set. No need to have the TDC locking pin on the fly wheel.

Assuming the head is already bolted to the block, with the cam shafts installed with the #1 cam lobe on both shafts pointing to each other. If not then you need to learn how to do this without damaging the valves. Rotate the cam square ends such that their edges are right angle to the top of the head. You can use a square to check this, and then clamp the square ends down with the vises resting FLAT on the head. This is cam TDC position.

Timing the VANOS:
Have the EX primary sprocket with chain mount on the cam end with the bolts hand tight so it won’t drop. Make sure the little triangle sign on the sprocket line up with the head top surface – the triangle should be around 8 o’clock at this point. At this point the special Cigar chain tensioner should be screwed in hand tight to lock the chain, and double check the sprocket triangle position. Bolt down the three studs to spec on the EX cam.

Assuming the secondary sprockets and chain were tied together with string during removal, and so their relative position to each other is not changed. If not, it’s not the end of the world, but just needs more trial error to set them in the correct position so the mounting holes are sort of centered to the studs or thread. On the EX 2nd sprocket, line up the double spline to the same on the cam’s spline, then insert the spline cup in -- which will force the sprocket to rotate CCW – until the mounting slots of the sprocket center to the corresponding thread holes (or studs I forgot). On the IN sprocket, line up the double spline and insert the spline cup in (this rotates the IN sprocket CCW) until there is about 2mm of cup’s spline visible. The Bentley said 1mm, but I think 2mm protruded out is better. You want more rather than less so later the VANOS piston can apply positive force on the cups during bolting it down.

On the VANOS unit, make sure to push the IN piston completely in – the piston can be moved fairly easy. For the EX piston, make sure it’s all the way out and can’t be pushed in. The built in spring does not guarantee this during bolting it down, so get an appropriate length socket and use it as a spacer between the piston and the big cover HEX nut (?). Lightly tight down the hex nut, which lock the piston solid in the advance position. There you have it: the inexpensive VANOS timing depth gauge.

With the rest of the hardware install and hand tight to the cam ends, with the cam position sensing wheel’s little triangles line up to the head top surface. Install the steel gasket and bolt down the VANOS unit evenly snug. You have timed the VANOS!!! With the 10mm wrench, reach in and tighten down as many nuts and bolts as you can to hold the pieces together at this important position. Remove the VANOS and finish up all the fasteners to spec. Install the VANOS and drive (without the valve cover of course just for fun for once!!!).

I did once and it worked the first time without having to try again.

I don’t know why the Bentley Manual doesn’t show this way.

Sapote

P.S. A very bad mistake that I made, and will not repeat again: During the process I used a small short 12 inch steel ruler for quickly check the cam timing position by using the ruler edge checking the parallel of the two square ends of the cam, then just place the ruler along the top of the cam bearing caps -- just a nice clean convenience place for keeping the ruler clean for repeated use. Big mistake!!! The thin small and overzealous ruler slided down hiding along the little nice gap between the cam's bearing housing when I didn't pay much attention to it. I closed the valve cover and bolt it down with the steel ruler inside, waiting to creep forward to its new neighbor intake sprocket and chain, for a nice welcome intro. For some reason -- the big Man was watching me --the next day I had a feeling that I need to double check those 10mm nuts on the timing sprocket, and so I open the valve cover again, rechecked the final torque on the nuts, rotated the crank to TDC and checked the cam timing square ends one more time. I was looking for the nice steel ruler. Where were you??

It's scary to think about how the intake sprocket and the chain are going to eat up the nice high quality stainless steel when I decelerate the car....

What about the compressed air?? What does it do and do I really need to connect it up??

Can anyone tell me what size the tensioner nut is as I have to go buy a socket big enough but cant get in there to measure it.

[Sapote]

I'm having trouble getting my cams timed correct. I have read several threads, but I feel there seems to be something missing. I'm having trouble after getting everything in place and using the vanos as an adjustment tool when I start to turn the engine over 2 times the primary chain moves first about 1/2" or so before the other chain moves therefore when I stop at TDC the cams are not where they are supposed to be. I know this is incorrect however I dont know where to go from here.
Please Help
Thanks in advance

I'm sorry it's too late for you, but I have not checked this thread for a long time.

If the primary (long) chain moves but the 2nd (short)chain doesn't move then the sprocket was not bolted down tight.

Sapote

What about the compressed air?? What does it do and do I really need to connect it up??

Can anyone tell me what size the tensioner nut is as I have to go buy a socket big enough but cant get in there to measure it.

You don't need compressed air to lock the EX vanos piston. In my post, I used a small socket to lock the EX piston in its out-most position.

Size of the tensioner nut? Just remove it and measure. How hard is it?

Sapote

I want to help if people need when reading this instruction, but I don't have time to check this thread. How do I subcribe for an auto notification via email when someone ask a question?

Sapote

[cesco]

what socket is the correct size for the spacer?

[Nufuns]

Do you still have the set and if so would you sell it? And for how much?

[Sultanofpa]

Is anyone still monitoring this thread? I just got done doing some major work on my 2001 330i (new piston rings, lower bearings etc...) and now am trying to time the engine. I've tried 4 times without the special tools, making jigs and such to try to do what the tools are supposed to do but i guess it isn't working. The engine sounds like a diesel when idling and there is a popcorn sounding pop which I believe is backfire into the intake manifold.

Not sure what to do next. I've read people having trouble timing the engine with the special tool kit. I would hate to rent the kit only to end up in the same place.

The only thingi can think of that I didn't do is use compressed air when putting the vanos on. Guess I could try one more time using the socket behind the vanos cap trick.

Anyone near Doylestown pa who has the timing kit? I'd be happy to rent it from you. If you've successfully timed one of these engines heck, I'd pay you to help me :o)

Thanks

[likwidmonster]

Tools:

Two small common vise blocks for clamping the cam square ends; not too long since the EX side does not have much room by the left wall, and not too short since this loose accuracy.

To make a solid primary chain tensioner, pull the spring loaded piston and spring off the unit, and insert an appropriate length cigar into the cylinder and replace the piston, then you have it – a special solid tensioner!! I don’t smoke so I used a right size socket for the cigar spacer.

Torx external sockets and internal drive bits.

Rotate the crank pulley to TDC – my California clean car still have the red TDC line on the pulley clear, so it’s very easy to set. No need to have the TDC locking pin on the fly wheel.

Assuming the head is already bolted to the block, with the cam shafts installed with the #1 cam lobe on both shafts pointing to each other. If not then you need to learn how to do this without damaging the valves. Rotate the cam square ends such that their edges are right angle to the top of the head. You can use a square to check this, and then clamp the square ends down with the vises resting FLAT on the head. This is cam TDC position.

Timing the VANOS:
Have the EX primary sprocket with chain mount on the cam end with the bolts hand tight so it won’t drop. Make sure the little triangle sign on the sprocket line up with the head top surface – the triangle should be around 8 o’clock at this point. At this point the special Cigar chain tensioner should be screwed in hand tight to lock the chain, and double check the sprocket triangle position. Bolt down the three studs to spec on the EX cam.

Assuming the secondary sprockets and chain were tied together with string during removal, and so their relative position to each other is not changed. If not, it’s not the end of the world, but just needs more trial error to set them in the correct position so the mounting holes are sort of centered to the studs or thread. On the EX 2nd sprocket, line up the double spline to the same on the cam’s spline, then insert the spline cup in -- which will force the sprocket to rotate CCW – until the mounting slots of the sprocket center to the corresponding thread holes (or studs I forgot). On the IN sprocket, line up the double spline and insert the spline cup in (this rotates the IN sprocket CCW) until there is about 2mm of cup’s spline visible. The Bentley said 1mm, but I think 2mm protruded out is better. You want more rather than less so later the VANOS piston can apply positive force on the cups during bolting it down.

On the VANOS unit, make sure to push the IN piston completely in – the piston can be moved fairly easy. For the EX piston, make sure it’s all the way out and can’t be pushed in. The built in spring does not guarantee this during bolting it down, so get an appropriate length socket and use it as a spacer between the piston and the big cover HEX nut (?). Lightly tight down the hex nut, which lock the piston solid in the advance position. There you have it: the inexpensive VANOS timing depth gauge.

With the rest of the hardware install and hand tight to the cam ends, with the cam position sensing wheel’s little triangles line up to the head top surface. Install the steel gasket and bolt down the VANOS unit evenly snug. You have timed the VANOS!!! With the 10mm wrench, reach in and tighten down as many nuts and bolts as you can to hold the pieces together at this important position. Remove the VANOS and finish up all the fasteners to spec. Install the VANOS and drive (without the valve cover of course just for fun for once!!!).

I did once and it worked the first time without having to try again.

I don’t know why the Bentley Manual doesn’t show this way.

Sapote

P.S. A very bad mistake that I made, and will not repeat again: During the process I used a small short 12 inch steel ruler for quickly check the cam timing position by using the ruler edge checking the parallel of the two square ends of the cam, then just place the ruler along the top of the cam bearing caps -- just a nice clean convenience place for keeping the ruler clean for repeated use. Big mistake!!! The thin small and overzealous ruler slided down hiding along the little nice gap between the cam's bearing housing when I didn't pay much attention to it. I closed the valve cover and bolt it down with the steel ruler inside, waiting to creep forward to its new neighbor intake sprocket and chain, for a nice welcome intro. For some reason -- the big Man was watching me --the next day I had a feeling that I need to double check those 10mm nuts on the timing sprocket, and so I open the valve cover again, rechecked the final torque on the nuts, rotated the crank to TDC and checked the cam timing square ends one more time. I was looking for the nice steel ruler. Where were you??

It's scary to think about how the intake sprocket and the chain are going to eat up the nice high quality stainless steel when I decelerate the car....

Does this process work? Has anyone had success timing VANOS this way?

Thanks!

[kigol]

Does this process work? Has anyone had success timing VANOS this way?

Thanks!

I am going to try this process this week. I've done many heads and like Sapote is saying it's just 2 camshafts and a crank. If you line everything up correctly and set the VANOS pistons in their proper resting positions I don't see why you would need any special tools.

Were you ever able to get it done or did you get tools?

[M3AN]

Any update on this, I'm interested. I've removed my VANOS and the exhaust cam (for Beisan rattle kit) and have reinstalled. My remaining doubt is whether l picked the "correct" mesh for the splined shafts. Everything went back on easily enough but some instructions say it must be a precise mesh whereas I needed to rotate the exhaust and intake cam hubs by a few mm counter clockwise to get them to mesh... is this bad? Would it through off VANOS timing?

[kigol]

Any update on this, I'm interested. I've removed my VANOS and the exhaust cam (for Beisan rattle kit) and have reinstalled. My remaining doubt is whether l picked the "correct" mesh for the splined shafts. Everything went back on easily enough but some instructions say it must be a precise mesh whereas I needed to rotate the exhaust and intake cam hubs by a few mm counter clockwise to get them to mesh... is this bad? Would it through off VANOS timing?

It's been a few months since I did this but i believe that is how it has to be done. Because they are splined they physically cannot go on straight. As long as you follow the procedure for installation without tools you should be ok.

For the record I did the entire head including removing the cams and lifters with ZERO special tools. I followed instructions here and on another DIY thread and everything went smoothly. Good luck.

[Thaniel]

I also did a head gasket (with removing and reinstalling the cams) with no special tools or jigs etc. Just marked the position of the chain and sprockets to each other etc. It is not as complicated as everyone makes it out. But of course there are plenty of new mechanics trying this. Doing it without special tools is not for everyone I guess.

[kigol]

I also did a head gasket (with removing and reinstalling the cams) with no special tools or jigs etc. Just marked the position of the chain and sprockets to each other etc. It is not as complicated as everyone makes it out. But of course there are plenty of new mechanics trying this. Doing it without special tools is not for everyone I guess.

Agreed it's really no different than any other timing system with the exception of the variable timing controls being on the cams instead of some type of solenoid. I could see how it would seem daunting to newer techs who haven't done this on other vehicles before. I forgot to mention I used whiteout to mark everything as well, it def helps with orientation and is good practice in any shop.

[yoziyo]

For the VANOS system, the short spline shaft has two opposing helical spline cuts on inside and outside. I’m curious why BMW did not use one straight spline and the other with twice the helical angle slope spline, and this should be easier cheaper to make.

Sapote

do you have any pictures taken while installing the vanos?

[rocketnut]

i know this thread is kinda dated but I wanted to express my many thanks to Sapote for figuring this out and posting it here for the rest of us. I just finished replacing my head gasket this last weekend and this thread saved me much time and money being able to finish putting the car together without the hassle of renting and waiting for tools. I did this exactly how Sapote said to and it work the first time. Car runs great!

[rluser]

Props to Sapote for the write-up. I, too, had to replace a head gasket and balked at purchasing a bunch of one use tools. I got a loaner 11-2-300 ( flywheel pin) and 11-3-240 (camshaft to head jig) so I did not need to fashion or fabricate those. On disassembly the intake was up a hair (chain stretch?) but on reassembly it was spot on.

Since I dropped the secondary chain/gears while cleaning I had to take a couple passes to find the right tooth (and then a third because I forget to install the two screws to the block at the front of the head), but the engine runs strong under all conditions (very cold untested) and the computer
is happy to not reach any limits.

I wrestled with 'vanos gasket or no gasket' for a couple beers before deciding Sapote's "with gasket" must be right.

A note on tool 00-9-250: with a bit of practice you can probably do this with your fingers (and Sapote's hard "cigar"). You want 6.2 inch pounds, which is reduced to about 5 pounds by the diameter of the tensioner nut faces (and split in two because you will almost certainly use two fingers).

Many thanks, Sapote. You saved me a bundle. I owe you a cigar or a beer or something.

[Billymc38]

I'm new to this site and have been reading until I'm cross eyed , I hope I haven't over looked the answer to my question which is, on a 2002 330i, I'm gong to remove cam shaft and replace valve stem seals using compressed air to hold valves up to do this , worst case scenario ,if I don't use the jig and line up all timing marks and turn over by hand and nothing hits, it's just going to run rough and I can drive it to a shop that has a jig to reset timing. Is this accurate. I'm an old school mechanic and my last BMW was a 1982 325i so a lot has changed since then .
I purchased this problem not knowing about the vanos type system in these cars.
Any help would be aopreciated in setting my mind at ease !
Thank you
Billy
Carolina Beach NC

[uniqu31121129]

hello all !!i know this is an old thread but after reading all posts i think here is the place to ask about a problem i have on my 1999 740il ..my car is very difficult to start n if does will idel horribly nowhere near drivable i think i found why its doing this i took off camshaft position sensor and noticed that the sensor plate inside had come lose so isnt spinning as it should ...my question is how can i tighten the sensor plate back up in correct postion that it should be in ? any help would be great thankyou

[newbederf]

Hi everyone.let me start by saying this is my first bmw and it has blown head gasket i went and pulled head at junkyard bought gasket set then learned u need special tools! Its a 1997 528i and i was reading post about doing the timing and all w/o special tools ...my question is if i havent pulled the cams off the head that i got from the junkyard (i pulled it)do i need to remove them to set the timing or can i position the lobes and bolt it down and go from there with the next step of the process??thanks in advance for any input

[newbederf]

my first bmw and it has blown head gasket i went and pulled head at junkyard bought gasket set then learned u need special tools! Its a 1997 528i and i was reading post about doing the timing and all w/o special tools ...my question is if i havent pulled the cams off the head that i got from the junkyard (i pulled it)do i need to remove them to set the timing or can i position the lobes and bolt it down and go from there with the next step of the process??thanks in advan

[Sapote]

The Rev. 2 update, just in case you want more photots:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ial-tool-rev-2

[bmw440]

[QUOTE=Sapote;21964977]Tools:

Two small common vise blocks for clamping the cam square ends; not too long since the EX side does not have much room by the left wall, and not too short since this loose accuracy.

To make a solid primary chain tensioner, pull the spring loaded piston and spring off the unit, and insert an appropriate length cigar into the cylinder and replace the piston, then you have it – a special solid tensioner!! I don’t smoke so I used a right size socket for the cigar spacer.

Torx external sockets and internal drive bits.

Rotate the crank pulley to TDC – my California clean car still have the red TDC line on the pulley clear, so it’s very easy to set. No need to have the TDC locking pin on the fly wheel.

Assuming the head is already bolted to the block, with the cam shafts installed with the #1 cam lobe on both shafts pointing to each other. If not then you need to learn how to do this without damaging the valves. Rotate the cam square ends such that their edges are right angle to the top of the head. You can use a square to check this, and then clamp the square ends down with the vises resting FLAT on the head. This is cam TDC position.

Timing the VANOS:
Have the EX primary sprocket with chain mount on the cam end with the bolts hand tight so it won’t drop. Make sure the little triangle sign on the sprocket line up with the head top surface – the triangle should be around 8 o’clock at this point. At this point the special Cigar chain tensioner should be screwed in hand tight to lock the chain, and double check the sprocket triangle position. Bolt down the three studs to spec on the EX cam.

Assuming the secondary sprockets and chain were tied together with string during removal, and so their relative position to each other is not changed. If not, it’s not the end of the world, but just needs more trial error to set them in the correct position so the mounting holes are sort of centered to the studs or thread. On the EX 2nd sprocket, line up the double spline to the same on the cam’s spline, then insert the spline cup in -- which will force the sprocket to rotate CCW – until the mounting slots of the sprocket center to the corresponding thread holes (or studs I forgot). On the IN sprocket, line up the double spline and insert the spline cup in (this rotates the IN sprocket CCW) until there is about 2mm of cup’s spline visible. The Bentley said 1mm, but I think 2mm protruded out is better. You want more rather than less so later the VANOS piston can apply positive force on the cups during bolting it down.

On the VANOS unit, make sure to push the IN piston completely in – the piston can be moved fairly easy. For the EX piston, make sure it’s all the way out and can’t be pushed in. The built in spring does not guarantee this during bolting it down, so get an appropriate length socket and use it as a spacer between the piston and the big cover HEX nut (?). Lightly tight down the hex nut, which lock the piston solid in the advance position. There you have it: the inexpensive VANOS timing depth gauge.

With the rest of the hardware install and hand tight to the cam ends, with the cam position sensing wheel’s little triangles line up to the head top surface. Install the steel gasket and bolt down the VANOS unit evenly snug. You have timed the VANOS!!! With the 10mm wrench, reach in and tighten down as many nuts and bolts as you can to hold the pieces together at this important position. Remove the VANOS and finish up all the fasteners to spec. Install the VANOS and drive (without the valve cover of course just for fun for once!!!).

I did once and it worked the first time without having to try again.

I don’t know why the Bentley Manual doesn’t show this way.

Sapote

P.S. A very bad mistake that I made, and will not repeat again: During the process I used a small short 12 inch steel ruler for quickly check the cam timing position by using the ruler edge checking the parallel of the two square ends of the cam, then just place the ruler along the top of the cam bearing caps -- just a nice clean convenience place for keeping the ruler clean for repeated use. Big mistake!!! The thin small and overzealous ruler slided down hiding along the little nice gap between the cam's bearing housing when I didn't pay much attention to it. I closed the valve cover and bolt it down with the steel ruler inside, waiting to creep forward to its new neighbor intake sprocket and chain, for a nice welcome intro. For some reason -- the big Man was watching me --the next day I had a feeling that I need to double check those 10mm nuts on the timing sprocket, and so I open the valve cover again, rechecked the final torque on the nuts, rotated the crank to TDC and checked the cam timing square ends one more time. I was looking for the nice steel ruler. Where were you??

It's scary to think about how the intake sprocket and the chain are going to eat up the nice high quality stainless steel when I decelerate the car....
I took a 1/4 socket(semi deep)installed it into the exhaust side of the vanos and snug the torx cap,just like SAPOTE described. Just follow his instructions,worked great on my first try.
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...370&fit=bounds
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...370&fit=bounds
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...370&fit=bounds
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...370&fit=bounds

[Don52]

Hi
I followed these steps
Car Started Perfect And Drove well
Till About half hour then picked up fault
And Started To Missfire
Next
Generic code p1315 cmp Secor bank 1A

[Boom7634]

Hi. First let me start by saying thanks for all the diy help. I was actually wondering where can i purchase the small square comon vise blocks to lock the camshafts