FS: Colored urethane bushings

[ilober]

Do you have any 25mm front sway bar bushings?

[Jester323]

I will very likely be able to offer these en mass in the very near future.

[npover72]

Jester,

I was trying to take off the trailing arms this weekend, before dropping the rear subframe. I know that the trailing arms can stay attached when dropping the subframe, but since I'm restoring all the components, I figured it would make sense to separate them now. Anyway, I can't pull the trailing arms until I disconnect the e-brake within the drum assembly. Problem is that both drums are rusted pretty solid to the hub. Any suggestions besides lubricant and beating the crap out of it with a mallet?

I have a great puller, but the arms on it aren't long enough to get around the edges of the drums. Hitting the drum to unseat it from the hub has proved to be unproductive. Considering that this car sat for 10 years, I was expecting this to be a huge PITA and it hasn't disappointed me yet. Everything I do to it takes twice as long because it's hasn't moved in years.

I am going to get those drums off, somehow, and then drop the subframe so I can send you the mounts. I'm ready to buy the lot, so I'll be making payment through Paypal before the week is out.

Thanks!

>Nick

[Turbo 3.8L E21]

PM sent

[jrcook320]

Jester,

I was trying to take off the trailing arms this weekend, before dropping the rear subframe. I know that the trailing arms can stay attached when dropping the subframe, but since I'm restoring all the components, I figured it would make sense to separate them now. Anyway, I can't pull the trailing arms until I disconnect the e-brake within the drum assembly. Problem is that both drums are rusted pretty solid to the hub. Any suggestions besides lubricant and beating the crap out of it with a mallet?

I have a great puller, but the arms on it aren't long enough to get around the edges of the drums. Hitting the drum to unseat it from the hub has proved to be unproductive. Considering that this car sat for 10 years, I was expecting this to be a huge PITA and it hasn't disappointed me yet. Everything I do to it takes twice as long because it's hasn't moved in years.

I am going to get those drums off, somehow, and then drop the subframe so I can send you the mounts. I'm ready to buy the lot, so I'll be making payment through Paypal before the week is out.

Thanks!

>Nick

This is somewhat off topic. You should start a new thread.

ps. buy a torch.

[npover72]

I'll just set the drums on fire; thanks for the advice!

[BoostedE21]

M10 motor mounts?

[jrcook320]

Attila, the m10 mounts could easily be filled in the same way subframe mounts are filled. I've thought about doing mine but don't want to add any more harshness to the drivetrain.

[Jester323]

Jester,

I was trying to take off the trailing arms this weekend, before dropping the rear subframe. I know that the trailing arms can stay attached when dropping the subframe, but since I'm restoring all the components, I figured it would make sense to separate them now. Anyway, I can't pull the trailing arms until I disconnect the e-brake within the drum assembly. Problem is that both drums are rusted pretty solid to the hub. Any suggestions besides lubricant and beating the crap out of it with a mallet?

>Nick

PM sent regarding my solution to this last time I encountered this same exact problem. Without the need of a torch.

M10 motor mounts?

They are in the planning stages. They will be offered soon for the M10, I love them on my M20. The M10 bushings are just a little more complicated than the m20s...

[jrcook320]

PM sent regarding my solution to this last time I encountered this same exact problem. Without the need of a torch.




They are in the planning stages. They will be offered soon for the M10, I love them on my M20. The M10 bushings are just a little more complicated than the m20s...

so you're starting from scratch rather than just filling the stock mounts? the m20 is much more refined than an m10. I wish I could ride in an m10 powered car with urethane mounts before pulling the trigger on them. Wait.. I could "test" set for you! lol

[waferman]

PM sent regarding my solution to this last time I encountered this same exact problem. Without the need of a torch.
..

What? That's crazy! You set everything on fire, Jester! There are still burn marks out in front of my house, mapgas man

[Jester323]

so you're starting from scratch rather than just filling the stock mounts? the m20 is much more refined than an m10. I wish I could ride in an m10 powered car with urethane mounts before pulling the trigger on them. Wait.. I could "test" set for you! lol

yes, I am starting from scratch. Primarily because there is so much rubber mixed in with the steel, and from the mounts I've had to examine, they all look significantly deteriorated. There really isn't a good way to to solve both of the problems of the OEM design with just a filler. The filler will resolve compression, but not tensile loads. Because of this, I believe that the urethane will break the bonds with the steel and rubber and eventually fall out from vibrations.

If I decided not to start from scratch, the easiest thing to do would be to just create an insert for the upper hole. This would significantly reduce my build time and cost.

Maybe I am in left field here, but if you are going to build a urethane motor mount and want it to really make a noticeable difference, I think that the stock design needs to be thrown away and a fresh look taken. Similar to the 2002 mounts that are on the market.

In addition, filling the OEM mounts means cores for me and that is always difficult for both me and the buyer. I think that by a little more than the difference in shipping costs for cores, I can build a completely new mount that will be far superior, and the lack of core hassle will make it worthwhile.

Maybe I will try an insert & send it to you for some R&R...

What? That's crazy! You set everything on fire, Jester! There are still burn marks out in front of my house, mapgas man

John, you're crazy. I catch something on fire one time in your garage with MAP gas & you seem to relate that to every time I have pulled your sorry butt out of a bind. next time we are going to learn about body work with MAP gas

[EBMW21]

Pm'd

[npover72]

Got it, Jester; thanks! Any chance that the M10 OEM engine mounts are vulcanized rubber?
Just curious if the manufacturer used something different than the standard rubber found elsewhere on the bushings of this car.

[Jester323]

I don't think so, it looks & feels very similar to all the other bushings.

[BoostedE21]

Attila, the m10 mounts could easily be filled in the same way subframe mounts are filled. I've thought about doing mine but don't want to add any more harshness to the drivetrain.

Reason I want to do it, is to minimize the movement of the motor when revving. SInce im starting on my new 3in exhaust, the DP will be very close to the strut tower (as it is, i hit it a little here and there).

Thanks Jesse for letting us know.

[waferman]

John, you're crazy. I catch something on fire one time in your garage with MAP gas & you seem to relate that to every time I have pulled your sorry butt out of a bind. next time we are going to learn about body work with MAP gas

Because it's my own running joke I'm always thankful to have my sorry butt pulled out of a bind, as well as watch the good people of the neighborhood cross to the other side of the street when we are out front with a torch!

[kdonn]

Finally got a chance to install the rear sway bar bushings. Love the red. This has got to be good for an additional 5-7% horsepower gain.

[Jester323]

Wow Kevin, that rear running gear looks amazing! POR 15?

The red is probably worth 10HP!

[jjgbmw323]

Got my Old Style control arms in the other day, and Man they look awesome...
Can wait to put all this stuff on.

The only thing now I worry is that I am going to be a much harsher ride than before, but other than that I an running Jesters products all over my car.

I got urethane bushings up the wazoo!!!

[kdonn]

Wow Kevin, that rear running gear looks amazing! POR 15?

Thanks. No Por15. Rear subframe is powdercoated. The trailing arms are done with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black. I just rebuilt the half shafts and Toyotech just shipped me the rebuilt and painted diff. I can't drive it so I figure at least I can take a picture.

[Jester323]

Got my Old Style control arms in the other day, and Man they look awesome...
Can wait to put all this stuff on.

The only thing now I worry is that I am going to be a much harsher ride than before, but other than that I an running Jesters products all over my car.

I got urethane bushings up the wazoo!!!

Joe, you worry too much. Get them installed and go take it for a spin and see what a difference it makes in handling.

Excessive valving in your shocks makes a ride "harsh", urethane bushings in an e21 sharpens the accuracy of the suspension's responsiveness.

[Bovensiepien]

Jester, i´m very interested in some parts, how can i contact you?

[Jester323]

Sorry, I just saw this. You can send me a Private Message through here, or email me at
jln AT wrgd DOT com

or

the_nemecs AT frontier DOT com

[Hatchman]

Just a random question that might fit in this thread.

For those who did the steering rack bushings with c-clamps, roughly what size clamps did you use?