Would it be something like this sexy part?
http://www.revshift.com/shop/index.p...ewCat&catId=40
Seen it in this build thread (great build thread btw):
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthr...=51098&page=20
.
Those do look great Jesse.
Man, I may just have to add a splash of color before dropping her down off the stands.
Great work as always.
If you can buy that for $120, I don't know if I will even bother to try to make them. My goal is to either make parts for the e21 that no one else does, or to make them less expensive than they are available elsewhere. If I made a guibo, it would be solid urethane with steel sleeves, not mostly metal with urethane inserts & steel sleeves.
I don't know, we'll see.
Jesse, how about a shift bracket bushing?
For second and 4th gear slams
I put this together for another member that lost the bracket. It's from an old shock bushing.
He said it stiffened up the shifting a tad. The steel washer will not need to be there, I added it because the bushing was not tall enough.
It's small enough to use left-over urethane on
Just something to ponder on...
Last edited by epmedia; 04-24-2011 at 07:17 PM.
Tbd
Do you have a package price for everything? I like to have the parts on hand when I have time to do a little work.
Woot! definitely getting red rear subframe mounts sometime soon. I feel like I kinda pushed you to make a poll about it after our messages regarding the cost of making these hah. well glad to see it came through
I forsee much much potential for Jesse with these bushings
I got a rack set from him awhile back, and they rock.
Go Jesse, go!
As Jesse has stated: Urethane is impervious to oil.
So - Oil will not make them swell or deteriorate which is especially important for rack bushings.
OE (my old ones) rubber rack bushings that fell apart from oil over the years:
Last edited by epmedia; 04-25-2011 at 03:56 AM.
Tbd
Thnx Jester!!!!!! Love it....
Bump! Just placed order!
"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed. The test of the machine's always your own mind. There isn't any other test."
Robert M. Pirsig
Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance
I will need some blue ones in the near future. Steering is currently way too loose.
Currently for the '79, the only thing I can offer for the front end are the steering rack bushings. These will definately tighten up the steering.
However, I just about have a process down and will be selling complete modified early style front control arms. These will be forthcoming in the future, as well as 22mm front sway bar bushings.
My rear subframe mounts will also work on the '79. 16mm & 19mm rear sway bar bushings will also be available in about a week or so...
I've recently installed some oem Control arm to sway bar bushings, wondering if it'd be worth upgrading to yours.
If it's the rack bushings you may see the rack move with a helper jiggling the steering wheel while you peek. Mine moved about a 1/2" (pic above). I have a stabilizer too, which was rubbing metal to metal because the OLD rack bushes were so worn. Check everything under there...
Tbd
Jester ... would some green ones cost the same?
The PO owner (metalsoul) already put your steering rack bushings on and the "Alpina" bar you make, but I need a set of rear subframe bushings and control arm bushings. I'd take a set of small sway bar bushings, but I take it you haven't made any of those yet? Any chance you'd give out some pricing love for getting both the subframe and control arm bushings?
If you are intersted in improving the effectiveness of the sway bar, more responsive steering and a better connection to the road, then YES.
Yup, color shouldn't make any difference. The three primary colors are easiest, blending colors (Yellow & blue in this case) is something that I haven't experimented with yet, but I have been planning on it, but have been waiting to get an actual order for it before I make something that someone may or may not want.
What exactly do you mean by "small"? currently I am only making the front sway bar in the 23.5mm size. I have started the mold fot 19mm rear sway bar bushings & 16mm rear sway bar bushings will be next.
Jester, you are too frickin cool....
Once I get my car fired and driving again, I'll pick up the rsm and rack bushings (getting the distributor set, see if I can get it turned over and running tonight...).
Excellent points Josh.
I've done one-off 25mm & 29mm bushings before. In fact I've got a set of 25mm bushings waiting to go to Joel right now. However, since I just bought a 25mm front bar for myself, I foresee this happening sooner. 29mm is really tough. There is very little material left between the bar & the bracket.
I am still waiting for parts, I will be useing them soon. Jester how much stiffer does it make the car if I have everything urethane....
steering rack,
engine and tranny mount,
diff mounts....
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
Joe, that's a difficult question to quantify, it's not like switching to higher spring rates with your suspension, but it enables your suspension to act & react more quickly.
Motor mounts & transmission mounts, steering rack bushings do not affect the "ride" at all. One of the main features of the m20 motor mounts that I make is that the OEM mount bushings will delaminate. Once they delaminate and seperate, the engine's own torque will allow it to twist freely in the engine bay with only gravity holding it in place! The engine will twist and the intake manifold will slam into the strut tower bar (or bottom side of the hood if you don't have a strut bar) every time you accelerate rapidly.
I'll try to find my old OEM M20 mounts when I get home and take a pic for you to see what I mean.
My mounts are designed specifically to prevent this. While they do provide some cushion in the compressive direction, however, they are completely solid in the tensile (pulling) direction and will withstand several times more force than OEM bushings to fail. For this reason, it is very important that you do not over tighten the nuts. Nylok nuts have been provided, and litterally just need to be "snugged".
Any chance you will have trailing arm bushings soon?
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