I have looked into this quite a bit, called manf and shops, etc but wanted to get some feedback from the guys in trenches actually using these parts
This is a partially stripped, back half cage, rarely but want to drive it on the streets a bit just to do it for now, highly likely to become an all out track car, full caged over the next winter or the one after that.
Moderate power for now, intake, long tube headers, 3" exhaust, chip tune, etc.....I will add power as the car and my driving it progress as needed. I always do power last.
Going near full race in the bushings, etc....sealed monoball on rear uprights, very hard urethane subframe inserts, Delrin RTA bushings, aluminum/delrin diff(3:73 4 disk, ramped LSD) Delrin front control arm bushings, solid engine and trans mounts, etc......
Coilovers, simple is cool but tuning can make a huge difference so looking at DA units from JRZ, Ground control, etc.....I do not really want to spend $4k plus on them so asking for feedback on lessor cost options, GC $3k, JRZ, $4k+, Motons out of the question(had them before, great, to much money)
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Brakes, though I like BBK's for looks like any gear head would I have had great luck with just a great front setup and upgraded stock rears on a couple of builds. I have ran many brands and full front and rears on some cars......I am leaning towards the Wilwood SL6 wide pad version calipers and good two piece rotors, floating preferred but fixed is ok if I must. The car is getting spindle ducts and hoses installed shortly.
I want to be able to upgrade the rears as needed if I get that far into racing the car, maybe just calipers on stock type rotors since most two piece setups do not save much weight and rear brakes mostly just balanced the chassis a bit anyway.
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Aero, I will be building or buying a substantial splitter, looking into real hood venting, going to run the GTC 200 wing I have on another car and considering cutting out the floor of the trunk so I can play with a diffuser later on(I would make the car as flat bottomed as I could for that)
I might run the car awhile without a aero so I can get used to it before adding more grip that way.
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I am open to recommendations from those here that really know, thanks
Rick
!! Running big brakes, crazy aero, but going cheap on suspension?
First of all are you looking to be competitive in a class? All those modifications are going to CRUSH you in Time Trials. Youll most likely have to run TTA/TTS, where that car would get mauled.
Why not be simple? Do simple bushings (sphericals take points), no big brakes (these cars really dont need them unless everything else is 100% optimized), look at the TT rules and optimize before you end up modifying yourself in a class wehre youll get crushed.
what s your budget?
coilovers?
TC KLine single adjust are 1700
http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...Details144.cfm
double adjust are 2500
http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...Details375.cfm
-Rich-
figure out what class you want to build for first, then plan your mods
I have heard great things about TC Kline,
older design, yes
yet still considered bulletproof.
I'm going with single adjustable and 500F 600R spring rates.
Keep the stock brakes like 85% of all racers in E36 M3's and spend that money in the suspension budget. Jrz may be the way to go.
whatchu got
Thanks guys,
I have built many cars to the rules at different levels of racing, etc.....I am building this one for me and will see where it ends up competition wise. I already know it will not be fast enough unless I add more power in the classes it will have to run in, no worries, I might just put my LS6 in it next winter, totally stock crate engine with a set of LG headers, intake and T1 tune made 390 WHP at close to 5k elevation, a very strong LS6! A cam, better tune, some porting, it would be plenty for whatever I had to run it in.
I will look at those TC Klines, I have a few of their parts here for the car already.
Brakes, I like to brake very late, hard, trail brake, etc....I have burned up a few sets over the years so a must for me up front at least. The LSD is being built for my driving style. Usually remove ABS but going to try it as I heard quite good in these cars but a 20-80 ramp LSD works well without it(supposed to at least, first time to try one will be in this car)
Most of my project cars have been very very fast for being the wrong car in class, taking seconds and thirds in a Turbo Matrix, Forester, etc in SM solo events as examples then passing build STIs at HPDE's when I had a full interior, stereo, etc......This will be my first proper car build since the 10 years into 510s, decades ago, not to concerned with winning but I might change my mind
Right now, I just love doing all these mods and want to see just how well I can make this thing go around corners and stop and use what power it has.
Thanks!
Rick
Late braking expert I see. You should have said that up front.
whatchu got
These front calipers stop me just fine: http://www.apracing.com/info/product...+pad_2759_2569. IIRC, they were $1100 for the pair last year. Excellent bang for the buck.
Brake early, brake hard expert here. Threshold braking testing with my car showed just shy of full-ABS stops me quickest. The ABS system is the stock unit.
Last edited by dradernh; 04-22-2011 at 04:40 PM.
Just got off the phone with the TC shop, will be on the way Monday, DA coilovers, camber plates, rear mono ball mounts, etc....
Very helpful in going over my mod list, matching spring rates to my needs, etc.....even were to set a competitor sway bars(much softer than expected)
Thanks
Now I just need to sort out the brakes, I might run stocks for a bit as will have ducts, good pads, SS lines, etc.....
Cool, what disks do you run with those calipers?
And, brackets, pads, etc........?
Interesting bumper cover, aftermarket, EU, etc? I like the bigger opening for more air to the coolers as well as low enough for a simple straight splitter, sweet!
That pisses me awf.Originally Posted by magnetic1
whatchu got
Discs come from Coleman; the shop that looks after the car sent them the specs & they made 'em up. The idea was to keep the cost down. I don't remember how much they cost, but can find out if you'd like.
Brackets were on the car when I got it; IDK if AP sells them or not. An AP dealer should be able to get you squared away. Pads are Hawk HT10s.
The bumper cover, I'm told, is from an E46. Which one, I don't know; as I don't pay too much attention to Bimmers in general, I took that assessment at face value. I went back to an E36 cover this year as the one in the photo had enough openings in it to make a Swiss cheese look plain. One attempt among many to clean up the aero on the car. (Prolly time for an updated photo.)
Thanks, I will look into those brakes a bit more
Looks like and aftermarket bumper, many of which are horribly designed, big gaping holes all over. I did not look closer until now and now see the duct tape over the giant brake ducts or whatever they were originally supposed to be
The center opening might be useful for more air to the radiator, oil cooler, if boosted intercooler, etc.....
I have a couple of sets of mirrors like those, one set in CF, saves some weight, supposed to be less drag as made for race cars, etc....
One thing, if the rules allow, a properly vented hood helps with cooling, drag and adds downforce all at the same time.
I am not sure any of the vented hoods I have seen sold for these cars actually do much good though. At least from what I know about doing this, not much room in these cars but a center vent made to cover as much of the radiator as possible is the way to go. I have a race hood from another car I might see about cutting out the vent and putting it into a stock gutted hood or aftermarket plain CF hood.
I can make one from aluminum as well but not as pretty as a nicely molded one.
I am new to BMW but not modifying cars for real performance
Thanks again, have a great day!
Rick
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