E39 Jackpads & Installation

[BlackBMWs]

An important safety part on our E39s is the Jackpad or Emergency Jack lift point. This is the designated lift point for the factory jack. Often overlooked until you need them, they are easy to check once you know what you are looking for and simple to replace.

The first time I tried to use my factory supplied emergency jack on my 540it, I could not figure out how the jack arm was going to be stable on flat jack points under the car. It was then I realized something was missing. All four original jackpads were missing off the bottom floorpan of my Tour. I read that the original jackpads did not have the retaining pin, therefore, over time, they just fell out.

Without the jackpads, it it fairly difficult, if not dangerious to use the factory jack to lift the car. What usually happens, is the car slips off the jack, denting the side floor sheet metal and hopefully not fall on you or damaging the car further. I now know what caused the dent on my drivers side rear lower panel.



Additionally, people have mentioned of wind noise and/or headliner damage as air pressure builds up in the wrong places via airflow up the vacant Jackpad holes.

Easy enough to fix.

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Installation time: 15 seconds per jackpad
Tools required: Forefinger or thumb to press Jackpad retaining pin in place
Cost: $13 or so for each missing Jackpad (I got mine from Jared@EACTuning)

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There are normally four installed Jackpads under the E39. If your jackpad is missing, this is what you will see under the front or rear door under the car.




Top and bottom pictures of the replacement jack pad and the retaining pin.




Insert the jack pad into the pad location under the door sills under the car. Press the pad firmly into place till it slides in flush with the underside of the car.



Press the retaining pin up into place. You can press the retaining pin in place with your thumb or forefinger. Your Jackpad is ready for the use.



(The Emergency Jack head is shown for fitment illustration .)


Don't forget to use the wheel chock when using this jack at the appropriate corner for safety.

Also, if you use a floor jack to lift up just a corner of the car, you can lift directly on the jackpad, use filler block of wood inside the jack pad to give it a bit of support or use a garage toy like this aluminum jackpad support.



While this Jackpad filler not really required, it is kind of cool...

Check your Jackpads, do this DIY if they're missing and jack up your cars safely my brothers... Cheers!

[cpatstone]

One bit I'll add: pushing the center rivets into place can be tough. Obviously it needs to be a tight fit, or they'd fall off. So, if need be, how do you press the center post the rest of the way in? why not the emergency jack? done-

btw, if anyone's just too damn cheap to buy all four of these, or thinks they're ugly or whatever, you can cut off the two outward-facing barbs so that the jack pad (without separate, press-in center pin) slides easily in and out of the body hole (now doesn't that sound like something it's not). So, you'd use this adapter in conjunction with the jack, and remove it when finished.

[Orxan4ik]

I saw the jackpad filler on ebay, kinda cool it is, but Id rather have the cup of my jack surround the pads rather than jack up on the flat slipper surface

[FP5241]

I saw the jackpad filler on ebay, kinda cool it is, but Id rather have the cup of my jack surround the pads rather than jack up on the flat slipper surface

+1...

They do look cool.. but..

[Constructo003]

I like that metal jack pad but i believe i would need a better jack seeing how my jack would slip right off that.

[boomer5]

Good info.Thanks for the post.

[BlackBMWs]

I like that metal jack pad but i believe i would need a better jack seeing how my jack would slip right off that.

Yup! My floor jack has a silicone pad in it and it's cup is larger than the pad support itself so it dosent slip. With the various lifting I'd been doing on the Tour these last two months, I noticed the edges of the new Jackpads were starting to crack, so, maybe this will help extend the life of the part.

I think my jackstands actually do more damage under the weight of the car than does the floor jack. Anyway, I have a spare jackpad if I break one...

Good info.Thanks for the post.

You're welcome! Simple, but supprizing how many folks don't know about these before they need them.

[siny528i]

Cool write-up!

Thanks for your post! Now I know that there must be Retaining Pins, because none of my 3 Jackpads (P/N 51717001650) have them.

About couple weeks ago I noticed a noise from the left side. It was like I am inside of jet. First, I thought it was coming from recently installed windshield glass. I look underneath and found out that my front left Jackpad is missing. I put rear one in front and noise was gone, but still...

Also, my front Jack Fixture (P/N 31111093712) just came off when I jacked my car down:




Is it something that happens often? Maybe that's because I had chocks on rear? Btw can I buy just pins for Jackpads?

Thank you in advance,
siny528i

[I Shield I]

Just a random fact, if you own a floor jack like I do the factory jack pads will JUST fit inside the lifting point for your jack, making any filler-wood or anything unnecessary.

[Shawn C]

I got a floor jack and I use 2 layers of carpet pieces and jack it just next to the jack pad.

[jamesdc4]

Interesting this thread pops up just when i need a replacement pad. Might as well do all four. EACTuning!!!!!!!!

[doc540]

note: cool-looking, aluminum, low profile jacks sold as "racing jacks" are a high ratio/high effort tool.

That means they jack to full height in four pumps, but the pumps become much harder.

To overcome this the jack handles are super long.

Had I realized it was a "racing" jack, I would've never bought it.

Thought it was just lightweight and low profile.

BEWARE: They do cup the jacking pads, but their cups are aluminum and break easily.

[Shawn C]

note: cool-looking, aluminum, low profile jacks sold as "racing jacks" are a high ratio/high effort tool.

That means they jack to full height in four pumps, but the pumps become much harder.

To overcome this the jack handles are super long.

Had I realized it was a "racing" jack, I would've never bought it.

Thought it was just lightweight and low profile.

BEWARE: They do cup the jacking pads, but their cups are aluminum and break easily.

Sell the racing jack and get this low profile one. I have one and it's awesome.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ack-67022.html

[doc540]

Sell the racing jack and get this low profile one. I have one and it's awesome.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ack-67022.html

That's the one I looked at and didn't buy.

It's low profile, right? (like for slammed E39's)

[Shawn C]

It's very heavy duty built but low profile and can go up to 20" high not as flamboyant as the racing ones. I was looking at the racing ones because they look nice but they are not heavy duty and don't go as high plus the effort is high.

[jamesdc4]

Interesting this thread pops up just when i need a replacement pad. Might as well do all four. EACTuning!!!!!!!!

Now all that is left is to install the missing one and store the spares after I have a chance to inspect the remaining three originals.

[h82crash]

The low profile jack at Costco has two pistons. It raises quickly under no load and with a load it changes to slow rise. 3.5 ton capacity too. Nice jack for $85.

[cnn]

Some people add a bead of caulk so the jack pad bonds to the chassis, just a small bead around the very edge of the rubber pad.

A product that remains rubberized even under extreme weather is either:

- Permatex Black RTV sealant (same stuff used for gasket)

- Butyl rope (the stuff you use for Door Vapor Barrier DIY)

- Or "Vulkem" caulking product. Roofers use this stuff around chimney.
I use it myself, amazing stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Tremco-Vu.../dp/B000WTXMR2

[jamesdc4]

Some people add a bead of caulk so the jack pad bonds to the chassis, just a small bead around the very edge of the rubber pad.

A product that remains rubberized even under extreme weather is either:

- Permatex Black RTV sealant (same stuff used for gasket)

- Butyl rope (the stuff you use for Door Vapor Barrier DIY)

- Or "Vulkem" caulking product. Roofers use this stuff around chimney.
I use it myself, amazing stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Tremco-Vu.../dp/B000WTXMR2

Thanks for the tip, Cam.
I already installed the missing one. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to try to pry it away from the body to add the caulk at this point wouldn't you agree?

[kashill]

Ok, I need to pick up a set for all four corners...

[Goodtohave]

I think I am missing all of mine, I use Hockey pucks under my BMW's when I use a lift...

Must be a Canadian thing but the fit perfectly.

I had not though of the car jack though if I get stuck on the side of the road without my floor jack.

I will pick up at least one to keep with my jack and spare!

[shlalaw]

On a related note, I keep a 17mm socket and breaker bar in the trunk of both my cars. Have you ever tried to get a frozen wheel lug off your car with the standard "lug wrench" while stranded on the side of the Interstate twenty miles from the next exit? You can thank me later.