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Thread: cylinder #3 has water, hydro locked..HELP!!

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by waehrik View Post
    1) The spline cups don't unfortunately seat themselves so nicely - they actually try to push out as you turn the crank and engine over. The trouble is that it's impossible to check whether the timing is set correctly because in an unconstrained condition (without the alignment plate bolted up) the camshafts will never return to the correct place. They could be set correctly but without putting everything back together and starting the engine you'll never know (if it's set right you won't get a code). That's another ~4 hours to put it all back together and tear it apart again to the point where you can adjust it. The trouble is that one spline cup isn't *quite* seated and the other isn't *quite* pulled out when the assembly is bolted down.
    The camshaft locking tools are very simple - it's just two metal pieces with a cutout for the square nut at the end of the cam that runs 90 degrees to the top of the head. One important measurement to take (as detailed in the Bentley manual) is after the engine is rotated through 360 degrees and the cam lobes of cylinder 1 are once again pointing one another. The exhaust cam locking block (or substitute) MUST be flush with the top of the head. The intake side of the intake locking block may only have 1mm of spacing between the locking block and head. If this isn't the case your timing is wrong. It's nice and easy to check with these tools. Even with the alignment plate I had to redo it three times because the cams wouldn't return to their proper positions. But it only took me 10 minutes to redo it while I had everything apart.

    2) The VANOS piston positions don't matter. Once the timing sprockets are bolted up properly they won't move relative to one another except when acted upon by the VANOS unit. There's no sensors in the VANOS itself to tell how far the pistons are out, so just slide it on. The little Torx screws in the middle of the pistons will attach each to the splined cup. Everything stays aligned correctly. You can replace the entire VANOS unit without distrubing the timing on the M52TU engine, unlike the single VANOS M50.

    My hose was very tight too, and it is just held in with two o-rings and a hex headed bolt. It seems to get quite hot in that area and the o-rings bond themselves to the aluminum or something. I got mine pried off and replaced the o-rings with Viton versions. The pipe is pretty cheap - for peace of mind I'd just crack it off and replace it while the head is off.

    Have you pulled the head off yet? I'm very curious how you fared trying to get it off with both exhaust manifolds attached. It was far too heavy for me even with someone else's help. I had to take the front exhaust manifold off (an air ratchet helps a lot here) in order to lift it. Just take a lot of care not to scratch the hell out of the head or block on the two locating dowels down there. I rocked my head back and forth and stuffed old (clean) socks in between to provide a cushion. It's inevitable that you'll slide the head around trying to get it off.
    so the cam tool are two separate locking blocks, each lenght has half of the head width? as the 1mm timing off for the intake cam, is this 1mm at the end of the piece?

    for the vanos timing, i know the spline cups themself can move by when cranking, but after the cups attached to the vanso with the lefthand thread torx screws, then the strong exhaust piston preload spring will force the Ex cup to advance the Ex cam to max advance, and the spline slope will force the intake cup to retrack into the vanos fully for a max retard, after cranking for some turns without vanos control. In other word, if I be able to assemble the cam sprockets, spline cups, and vanos such that Ex cup/piston protrude fully out and Intake cup/piston retrack fully in, and the two cam square to the head when crank at TDC, then the timing is done correct. yes or no?

  2. #52
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    Your effort to manually lap the head is probably close to machinist practice but should they have better methods or precision measuring I would consider sending it out. They could recommend the proper replacement gasket thickness. At least cold call qualified rebuilder shops to see what they would use.
    Anything Made can be made Better

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sapote View Post
    I work alone and my weight is 135lbs. I use a ratchet-robe attached to a long 2x4 (on two ladders) to pull it up, slowly inch by inch, and have stacks of wood pieces between the head and block. after the timing chain were disconnected, i turn the crank about 30 deg backward, and rotate both cams such as the #1 lobes were pointing directly at each other, horizontally. This position gives the minimum protrusion for all of the valves, and all pistons are below TDC.

    After the head was up about 4 inches, I found it's impossible to clear the exhaust manifold from the fire-wall -- they were too long, more than 2 ft i think, and the head could not clear forward from the AC and radiator. If the head to be pulled out with the exhaust manifold, i think the only way is to pull the head at a very steep angle, front up. This is too dangerous for one person. At this 4" up position, with little more room around the exhaust, i managed to remove all 16mm nuts from the manifold. Drop the manifolds down, and ratched the head straight up and bought it out.

    after using a brand new plastic credit card to scrap the head clean, I used a straight edge to check for warpage. Lenghtwise end to end, the middle section is about 0.003" higher. There is no cracks i can see. The #3 chamber, valves, and piston are so clean, from the hot steam of leakage cooland. I really think this leakage had been going for some times. I guess the gasket started with some small leak a while ago.

    With 3 thou warpage, I might just remove the cams to retrack the valves in, and place it on top of a big flat machinist granite with fine sand paper taped down, and lap the head down. if lapped down 3 thou, should i buy the 12 thou over size gasket, or just use the standard?

    btw, all the cylinder wall still have the original horning pattern, and my finger could not feel any ridge at the top from the top rings, even after almost 90k miles on it. This engine is still tight -- never have to add a drop of oil during the anual oil change 10k miles/year.

    sapote
    You should really take your head to the machine shop and have it milled and pressure tested. The cost for me was $70 total and I had peace of mind knowing it was done right. You will need the oversized gasket also, .003 is a lot. They took .001 off mine.
    Last edited by BMW330CiEric; 04-26-2011 at 11:18 AM.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW330CiEric View Post
    You should really take your head to the machine shop and have it milled and pressure tested. The cost for me was $70 total and I had peace of mind knowing it was done right. You will need the oversized gasket also, .003 is a lot. They took .001 off mine.
    Great info; any shops around Burbank 91501 do this? Wow even 0.001" is out of spec? I'm sure the cams have to be removed for this, do the valve need to be removed too?

    As for gasket size, they have only either the standard or 0.012" thicker one.

    Sapote

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sapote View Post
    Great info; any shops around Burbank 91501 do this? Wow even 0.001" is out of spec? I'm sure the cams have to be removed for this, do the valve need to be removed too?

    As for gasket size, they have only either the standard or 0.012" thicker one.

    Sapote

    0.001" is pretty darn close to perfect. My head had to be shaved down by 0.020" to restore flatness. Obviously I used the thicker head gasket. I have an increase in compression (and power) now, but no problems at all. The gas out here in the East is always 87-89-93 so with the highest octane I have zero predetonation issues either.
    I wouldn't put the thicker gasket on if you only have to remove a few thousandths from the head.

    You do have to remove the cams for planing but not the valves. When the cams are out all of the pressure on the valves is removed and they retract fully into the head and out of the way.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by waehrik View Post
    0.001" is pretty darn close to perfect. My head had to be shaved down by 0.020" to restore flatness. Obviously I used the thicker head gasket. I have an increase in compression (and power) now, but no problems at all. The gas out here in the East is always 87-89-93 so with the highest octane I have zero predetonation issues either.
    I wouldn't put the thicker gasket on if you only have to remove a few thousandths from the head.

    You do have to remove the cams for planing but not the valves. When the cams are out all of the pressure on the valves is removed and they retract fully into the head and out of the way.
    So your chamber height was reduced by 0.009" (.020 - 0.011 gasket=.009. I think even with this higher compression, the engine automatically detect Knock and retard the timing. In other word, low actane does not damage the engine as in old day.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW330CiEric View Post
    You should really take your head to the machine shop and have it milled and pressure tested. The cost for me was $70 total and I had peace of mind knowing it was done right. You will need the oversized gasket also, .003 is a lot. They took .001 off mine.

    Sorry, I meant .010. I used the standard gasket, not oversized..

  8. #58
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    Kudos to you guys for doing this kind of work yourselves.

    I mean, I'm sitting with 800 posts or so I can't even do my own CABs!

    The story is a great read and learning experience.

    Thanks for sharing.

    "you vill haf goose pimples" Meyle HD CABS, sock mod, and new hoses, pulleys, belts and water pump.
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  9. #59
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    Does anybody know what are the thread pitch of the TimeSert used for the head bolts if I need to use? I guess the id is 1.25mm pitch, and the length is about 1" long. I do have tools so just want to buy insert only.
    Last edited by Sapote; 04-28-2011 at 03:51 PM. Reason: correction

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    cylinder head cracked!!!

    so it's been three weeks since the car broke down, and today she is waking up again!! That is the good news, and the bad news is I had to replace the cracked head. Initially I couldn't see the short hairline crack from the #3 front ex valve seat to the near water jacket, but the next morning with better sun light I found it. I located and bought a used complete head from suppose to be low miles wreck. I received the head 4 days later and initially was so disappointed at first look: it was so dirty in the valve train compartment with something like black tar. I think the PO did not change engine oil, compare to my original 90k miles head which is spotless, except it's useless now. With the cam shafts removed to close all valves, then filled the chambers with gasoline for leak test. I was looking at the exhaust port where one expected the worst if anything -- nothing leaked but soon saw gas was dripping on the intake side; how could it be? #1 and 3 intake leaked but none for the exhaust? i thought might be when they removed the head and the cams, some intake valve shut with material jammed between the valves and seats. ok, some i install the cams back to open the valves for a look. Both valves and seats on the leaked units were rough with material that i could not clean out without using a sharp knife, which should never be used for this task. Bad news -- the valves needed a lapping job. I don't have tool for removing the valve springs for lapping, then i thought how about lapping with the spring!! I carefully rotate the cam so the "bad" valve just barely touch the seat and used my fingers to rotate the valve against its seat. It worked!! After an hour i recheck with gasoline: no leak, not even any gas sweat over the valves!!

    I forgot to mention that no special tools was used for removing the cams from the head. Just rotate the cam to the right position, where there is only one starts open and one starts close and the rest are close, then release the special doweled #1 bearing first, and all bearings for the closed valves. Next, release the last two open valves slowly and equally.

    Head install: I used brake fluid to clean the tough old black silicone stuff of the old head gasket from the head and block. I learned that you cannot install the exhaust manifold after the head was bolted down. Drop both manifolds down first, then lower the head down but don't let it touch the block' two locating dowels, then push the head to the left an inch, then align and bolt the manifolds to the head, then mate the head to block. During the first trial when I mated the head to block, somehow one of the dowel sleeve attached to the head and left the block. I thought no problem -- dowel to the head same as dowel to block. So on the second run when mating the head to block, I used one head bolt to pass thru the dowel and keeping it from falling out into the cylinder. With the manifold bolted to the head, time to torque down those head bolts. Very exciting moment!!! Something went wrong -- I could not thread the front bolts. The head was out of alignment with the block! how could this be with the two dowel sleeves in there??? Could that loose dowel sleeve felt off into the cylinder? I lifted the head up just enough to see the loose dowel was still there, between the head and block. So why the head not center to the block? Well, the head has deep dowel holes, and the dowel sleeve rose too high into the head and did not lock to the block. Shit. I was not going to unintall the bad ass manifolds again to remove the head out again. i went ahead to thread all 14 head bolts and see this helped center the head. not good enough. i then install the three smaller bolts for holding the head to the lower chain front cover. Yes these smaller bolts are much tighter and they center the head well. i was so worry during torquing the head bolts. During the first 90 deg torque, I clocked the torque gauge to around 80 - 90Nm on some bolts. My god, how much on the 2nd 90 deg torque, much be 120 NM. I let the head rest over night before the 2nd 90 deg run.

    BTW, do not use any wood blocks or anythings between head and block during this, since any motion of the heavy head will damage the soft thin silicone coating on the head gasket.

    The head finally bolted down without any obvious thread pulled away from block -- hard to tell and I was not 100% sure.

    VANOS install: I had work out the theory and method to set the timing without the need of using special tool. See my separate article on Double VANOS timing without special tool.

    So everything all put together finally on Sunday night. On Monday I was so exciting ready to fire her up after dead for three weeks. I hand crank her for a few turn to make sure no piston kissing valves. Fire her up. It ran, but with some valve ticking noise. I though it's ok, the valve auto-lifters need to be filled up with fresh oil. I drove to work. I was very gentle on the gas pedal for the first few miles for the new gasket. I stepped on the gas some more just before enter the free way. Oh shit!! it hick up and the service engine and the famous yellow triangle came on the dask board. She was limping. What could go wrong? head bolts pulled thread? water got into combustion again? I nursed her home with my head down. Took my reliable '67 Porsche 912 to work. Dark cloud over my head. Got home that evening and scan the trouble code. P0303 and P1580. #3 misfire and throttle body problem! I could understand #3 misfire -- water got in #3 again, but why throttle body problem now?

    Notice that no VANOS code shown up. It was timed perfect w/o special tool as promised.

    TBC, I need sleep.

    Sapote

    Ok, for the #3 misfire code, which is the same one that had cracked head and water leaked in before, and so either the code was old -- set previously, or a new one if the same cylinder had water leak in again. So to find out, I waited overnight for the next cold early morning to remove the plug for sign of condensation. Woke up at 6 next morning and crossed my fingers, open the plug. It's DRY!!!! and the coolant level was the same as the day before. Great news -- I needed a break.

    For the trouble P1580 throttle, I researched the web for more info, since I didn't know if the vane could be moved by hand or it was driven by motor via a worm-gear -- I didn't want to force it open and broke it. Info told me that it could be forced to open. Great, since during installing the whole intake manifold mess the previous day, I had noticed that I could not open the throttle's vane with light pressure, but I thought that's normal since it's electromechanical driven. So I went in and took it out. This time it took less than 30 minutes compare to hours on the first time. The vane was jammed tight. The input side of the throttle was very clean, but the other side was corroded from the water vapor of the leakage in the cylinder. After cleanning it up really good, installed back in.

    BTW, to make the task super easy, the oil dip stick tube's holding bolt needs to be removed, and swing the tube away from the wiring junction mass, then you have more room to work around the ICV and throttle body.

    I fired up the computer and cleared the P0303 and P1580 codes. Fired her up again. Perfect, no white smog. Dropped all necessary tools into the trunk, drove 20 miles to work. Every thing was perfect, including fresh clean air that I needed in the cabine. Just to let you know that I did not install the cabine air filter and its housing during the drive test the day before, and I was almost passed out during toxic fume from the exhaust manifold burnning the brake fluid residual that I used to loose the exhaust manifold rusty nuts.

    TBC

    Sapote

    Throttle body:
    So if the throttle was seized up for the whole time, then why I was able to drive the car in town for 3 miles but not knowing? It’s a question for you guy detectors out there.

    Sapote
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    Last edited by Sapote; 05-12-2011 at 10:19 PM. Reason: addition

  11. #61
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    that's great. i need to read your vanos install tread. everyone that i read who used the jigs had problems. personally i have done a single vanos without tools , but thought the double to be impossible. good of you.
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  12. #62
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    Wow solid investigating work to DIY the head gasket and cylinder crack, Sapote!
    I recommend that you check the Throttle Body cable for any slack, as it is electro-mechanical. Have someone press the gas pedal all the way down while you tighten the hex nut to rid it of any slack. There is also a wire guide that the cable should be resting on, check to see if it is in the correct position. Then clean and inspect your Throttle Body for dirt and debris and clean the ICV as well.

    After Checking TIS it seems that you just need to reset your adaptations. So you can DIY that or have a friend with the proper equipment to do so, that should solve the issue.
    06/99 328I | 124K MILES | M54B30 MANIFOLD SWAP | MS42 -> MS43 DME CONVERSION | STILL JUST AS SLOW AS EVER

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    I'm not sure if I'd immediately consider the misfire code to mean that the head gasket is leaking.

    Starting with the easiest thing, are you blowing white smoke out the exhaust?

    If you quickly swap coil packs, does the problem follow the coil?
    I'm just thinking that if a cylinder was really filled with water, the spark plug may have had too low of a resistance and caused the coil to fail. It would track to the same cylinder if you were careful and put the coil backs where they came from.

    Does each cylinder have compression?

    For the throttle body problem, I would also check to make sure your throttle cable has seated properly. Since your TB is manually controlled, it could be hanging partially open. Did you also replace the TB gasket while you were in there (if you bought a head gasket kit you'd have it). Just to check, though it seems like you've been really careful, but did you plug the circular connector to the TB back in all the way and rotate it to lock it? I spent almost half an hour getting mine to line up properly and even when I thought I had it on properly, a little tug on the cable in the right direction would loosen it back up again.

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    See new updated long post.

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    new update

  16. #66
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    It probably took a while for it to realize that the TB was stuck shut. It may have been able to travel with just the ICV...Did it run rough before the light came on?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornung418 View Post
    It probably took a while for it to realize that the TB was stuck shut. It may have been able to travel with just the ICV...Did it run rough before the light came on?
    No, it responsed to my pedal command fine up to certain rpm, then when it needed to open the big throttle, then the computer realized it's bad, then hell broke loose. I believe the ICV responsed to the pedal at low rpm, and this is why I did not detect enything wrong until too far from home in deep sh*t.

    sapote

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    See the my long post for more photos.

    The head on tennis ball is to have the valves position verticle so I can place all 12 slipery hyro-lifters balance on top of the valve stems before I can lower the cam bearing housing w/o using the special magnet tool.

    Notice how clean was the head, but sadly damaged. The cam lobes were like new after 90k miles.
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    Last edited by Sapote; 05-12-2011 at 10:43 PM.

  19. #69
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    Me again, same car with cracked head, 2nd time

    On 2/15/18 wife saw the low coolant light, read the User Manual it said check and top up as the soonest, thought no big deal would ask me to do this next day. The ET had long crank line and dumped all water on driveway. Wife drove to get food about 4 miles round trip, overheated and #1 and 4 cracked this time!!

    The 1st head was 6 yrs ago and I was lucky with no pulled thread on the block, but I am prepare for Helicoil insert or Time-sert this time. The Time-sert for BMW kit is too expensive $450 here:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDBYXGU...A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

    I'm thinking this insert https://www.threadkits.com/perma-coi...e/206-m10c-20/ around $18 for 25 units. This might not as strong as Time-sert, but it should be stronger than the block stock aluminum thread. No?

    So after hearing the bad news, yesterday I bought and replaced the ET, filled with water and test the engine, hoping no cracked head. Initial idle had some weird tapping noise, sounded like one cylinder only. I was concerned piston slapping due to enlarged cylinder wall from overheated with zero coolant for 4 miles. Noise still there at operating temperature, but after I rev it to 4000rpm to see any white water smog out the tail pipe, then the noise gone and it ran smooth as normal. Great, no damages to the bottom end. After running for about 40 minutes ( I didn't drive test it because my other cars blocked the driveway, and I should had done this), I shut it off waiting to check the spark plugs for condensation, if any, the next morning.
    This morning I removed all plugs and none had any water. I was so happy ready to drive it to work for testing. Started the cold engine and it's shaking. Oh no, WTF. Soon SES light shown up. Codes say #1 and 4 misfire. Why this didn't happen yesterday? I drove it around for a miles and nothing changed. Shut off and pull #1 and 4 plug, and no sign of water. Cleared the code and fired her up again and it ran smooth, no codes. I felt the coolant hose and it was too firm -- combustion gas leaked in. Why no more code? When started cold the combustion pulled in water and caused misfire codes, but after warmed up the metal expansion sealed the leak and it ran perfect. Head cracked at #1 and 4 or gasket damaged. I bought a used head right after that for $320 and it looked very nice with clean oil color. The first used head 6 yrs ago costed around $900 and I had to lap couple valve seats.


    Car hell and wish me luck.
    Last edited by Sapote; 03-09-2018 at 10:21 PM.

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    This Time-sert is the one in the BMW kit $1.90 each. I will grind away the big end and use red Loctite to hold it to the block. Why the whole kit sold for $450?
    Same drill size as the helicoil insert -- 13/32, so I will buy the drill and tap. This time-sert is 24.5mm long vs the 20mm long helicoil.

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    I'm back after 8 days working on this. Here is the story and hopefully this will help someone with a similar problem. I'm so glad I post the first event 6 years ago because reading it had helped me saved tons of time on this 2nd time.

    2/14/18 ET ruptured at rear right corner and lost all coolant on our driveway. Wife saw the low coolant light and thought it’s no urgent; would let me know when I got home from work. Drove 4 miles to food store and overheated the engine. I was worried for the wost; Could head and block survived driving 4 miles with zero coolant? I expected a cracked head and hoped the block was OK.

    2/15/18 I replaced the ET with new unit, fired the engine up and it shaking with multiple misfire codes. After up to normal operating temperature, I cleared the codes and it run normal but the radiator hoses were pressurized too firm – must be combustion gas leaked in. Head must be out for examined.

    2/16/18 bought a used M52TU complete head for $320 on ebay

    2/17/18 Picked up the head at the yard. It looked clean, a sign of good oil change maintenance. Bought Time-sert kit and 14 24.5 M10 x 1.5 time-serts from Amazone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Kevlar string for ET tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Bought 1 Ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight for less than $100 with coupon. The whole thing fitted into the small 2010 Kia Rio. (This little cheap rental car ran very well. I checked the engine and saw the plastic coolant overflow tank -- no stupid plastic pressurized tank as BMW). I don’t understand why the Asian cars used the welll proven Recovery tank while European cars go with the venerable plastic pressurized tank. The $40 tank broke and could destroy the expensive engine. I think this is a stupid mistake to use pressurized tank. The ET ruptured twice in 17 years and this time it killed the engine. The first time it ruptured with me driving on freeway 8 years ago and I towed it home safely. The 2nd time on my wife and she didn’t stop the engine with temperature gauge going hot. What can we do to avoid the tank ruptured? I had read someone made aluminum ET but don’t know much. I came up with an idea – wrap the tank outside with Kevlar string. Bought a 150’ Kevlar string roll and Time-sert kits from Amazon in case the engine block threads were pulled from overheat. Anyone can find one advantage of pressurized ET tank over the Recovery tank?

    2/19/18 spent 5 hrs removing the Intake box off the car. Disconnect the big 12V cable from the starter to the jumper point on the right fender. Removed air filter box, the manifold Adjuster Unit (could be under different name here), throttle rubber hose, throttle unit, the two big power cables connected to the starter, then the big 16mm nut holding the Intake box to the block. I removed the fuel injector rail off the box in order to get the box off the car. I see the two fuel lines have the special connectors that seems to be snapped in. If the connectors could be disconnected then the box could be removed with the fuel rail. The injector electrical connector rail must be removed before removing the fuel rail with the injectors. Removed valve cover, water pump, thermostat, fan, VANOS, washer tank, Secondary Air pump, coolant drain bolt (8mm hex) right side of block near #2 cylinder to drain coolant off the head/block. Soaked exhaust manifold and muffler-to-manifold nuts/bolts with used brake fluid.

    2/20/18 Got under the car, removed manifold/muffler 4 nut/bolts, removed mid-section muffler support bracket to floor nuts, removed muffler tail support nuts. Pulled the whole muffler off the manifold studs and support the tail end with some object. (This should be done before attempt to remove the head to avoid breaking the chain guide when try to pull the muffler off the EX manifold with a loosen head.) Turned crank to TDC. Removed chain tensioner. Removed all head bolts but used two bolts temporary to keep the head from slide off the block. I found 5 bolts could be turned by hand (pulled thread from block) and the rest still needed big torque to loosen. Those 5 bolts were located in the middle of the block. On the engine hoist, I replace the last piece of the square telescopic tube with a big metal pipe. Tied a rope near EX cam #6, looped around the hoist pipe, then tied the other end to near IN cam #6. This rope will be used to change the roll angle of the head to match the angled block. At the #1 end of the head, used a ratchet rope tied to both cams. The ratchet rope is used to control the tilt angle of the head to keep it parallel with block. Lifted the head off the block about 2”, placed some wood between to protect the valves and block. With 11mm socket removed all 8 nuts off the front EX manifold working from above (right hand reached down and LH around remove the 4 bottom nuts). Removed front manifold from head and set it down in place. With front manifold off this gives more room to remove the 8 nuts on rear manifold. Pulled manifold off the head and lowered it down in place. Lifted the head out. I saw threads pulled out off block on those 5 bolts.

    2/21/18 spent 6 hrs just to drill out the old threads on the block. The hand drill kept jamming every second with the threads. There is no easy way.

    2/22/18 Continued on drilling out old threads but the last two near the firewall. Spent some time to measure and locate the area on the fiberglass cabin air filter housing needed to be nipped off to clear the hand drill for #14 threaded hole (number counting CCW starting at the right rear hole as #1 and 7 at right front, 8 at left front). No interference at #1 hole. Total about 10 hrs to finish drilling all 14 holes. Cleaned out the holes with Q-tip and ready for thread tapping. This was my first ever tapping job on a tough condition of a inclining surface. I was very careful and didn’t know how to ensure to keep the tap bit center, and operated by sighing. The first one went very good and so I thought the tapping process was self-center. Bad mistake. Finished 4 more threaded holes and was more confident. On the next hole the tap bit started getting harder to turn, and I finally worried it might snap. Backed it out and looked down the hole with flashlight – saw a piece of shiny aluminum protruded out from the wall. I used the same drill bit to clean it out but it still there. Finally realized that strange piece was pushed out by the tap bit when it was off center. OMG, I’m screwed. I re-centered the tap and finished the threaded hole smoothly, but the off-center now causing a portion of the threaded hole too large, and this would not secure the Time-sert when torqueing the head. Major headache. I finished 14 holes tapping with no more issue. I would say the whole process of drilling/tapping took 14 hrs. I was thinking using JBweld to fill the enlarged hole. I reasoned it still had 270* good threads and about 90* with extra space, which I will try to fill in with JBweld between the timesert and the block. I used alcohol and acetone to clean all holes and red Loctite all 13 time-sert except the bad one. I spent extra 30 minutes to clean the to be JBwelded hole with acetone to ensure a good bond. Mixed a small patch, waited for it thicken as toothpaste to avoid run-off, and applied to the threaded hole and insert. I planned to use a head bolt to jack unbonded p and preload the time-sert up in order to have metal to metal thread contact instead of JBweld. I made sure not letting the bolt head bonded to excess JBweld that might fall into the bottom because then the bolt bonded with a piece of JBweld and could not be got out. I greased the bolt threads. All done and I gave the JBweld set for 24 hrs before tried to remove the head bolt.

    2/23/18 Friday. The bolt was partially bonded to JBwell at the bottom but I got it out OK. If the bolt bonded with a chunk of JBweld on the tip then I really don’t know how to get it out the cemented time-sert on the block. Time to clean up the new used head and lower into the block. I head looked great; all valves and seats looked smooth but I used Q-tips to clean small debris that might had fell into via the intake ports. Turned the head with chambers up for a leak test with gasoline. I heard the head bolt washers fell down. Damn, I thought they all had been removed. I tried to look for them under the sun but couldn’t find any more, then when I lifted the head up and shook it around another washer fell down. Was this the last one? I couldn’t spend all the time looking for washers in the head. Turned the cams and had 3 or 4 chambers with all valves closed, added gasoline and looked for leak. All leaked to the Intake ports. Sheesh! Opened the valves up again and cleaned with gasoline. Tested again and no more leak; head was ready. I took the opportunity to remove the 5mm hex oil plug at the rear of the head – read somewhere that people had oil leak at the plug. I was surprised it came out with little torque. I cleaned then used Loctite and screwed it back for peace of mind.

    When removed the old head off the block, two dowel sleeves left the block and attached to the head. It’s time to transfer them to the new head. I got one out but the other refused to go. I called BMA parts around 4pm for the dowel and they had to order it, and pick up on Monday for $3 each. Oh no, I need it to finish the job this weekend. Called dealers and luckily one of them had in stock for $8 each. I didn’t want the dowel sleeves to move from block and got into the head again as 6 yrs ago during lowering the head down, because if they moved into the head then they went in too deep and the head could not lock to the block and they could be misaligned – this is bad for the long timing chain. I cleaned the surfaces really good and Red-Loctite them to the block.

    2/24/18
    Prepare the engine hoist. I replaced the square cross-section tip of the telescope arm piece with a large round steel pipe. With a rope looped around the round pipe and the rope two ends tied to the rear ends of two cams, I could control the head roll angle to match with the angled block by rotating the pipe. To control the head pitch to match the block, I used a retches rope at the front of the cams. With the two EX manifolds laid next to the block, I lowered the head down and in parallel with the block by adjusting the roll and pitch angles, without the head gasket. Added some sealer at the block and timing chain cover joint then installed the head gasket. Pulled the chain through the head and hung it up to the car hood with shoe string, then lowered the head down and watched the for the chain guide not crushed by the head. With the head about 2” off the block, I installed the rear EX manifold first and torqued all eight 11mm nuts. Repeat with the front manifold. No need to get under the car for this, but needed flexible hands. 6 yrs ago replacing a cracked head I coated all manifold nut/bolts with anti-seize compound and it paid off this time. The hardest part was done. Now I just need to torque the head bolts.


    2/24/18
    Greased all 14 washers and head bolts ready to torqueing. Painted a white dot on each bolt with lady nail paint (ensure the paint is outside of the Torx socket). Torqued them in pattern to 40NM or 30ft-lbs in stages. Placed a reference mark on the head for each bolt paint dot. After the final torque the bolt white dot should be 180* away from the reference mark on the head. I done this in many stages, not just 90*, delay, then 90*. This took me many hours because I used a rope tied to the cams for anchoring the Torx socket/wrench by twisting the rope tight over the wrench. I moved the rope each time from one bolt to the next. Every bolts held up fine.

    The rest of the day installed the intake manifold, cooling system etc.

    2/25/18
    Finished the two chains and VANOS timing as shown in my other instruction. VANOS oil line connected, IN and EX cam sensors connected. Make sure to turn the crank 4 turns minimum by hand to ensure the new hydraulic lifters were not too full and causing valves pistons interference. With crank at TDC, verify the cams square ends are 90* with the head surface. Filled up with tap water and ready to fire her up. She was fired up but ran rough; not a good sight. Then soon I heard loud high pitch short noise, twice in 2 minutes apart. WTF, valves kissed the pistons? The same noise never happened again, but it ran rough, then SES warning light. Codes said #2 and 6 misfired and something about the injectors. Misfired could mean water in combustion chambers. I didn’t feel OK. Damn it all the hard work! But what’s about the injector codes? Hmm, might be the injectors electrical connectors were loose. With engine still running, I tried to push the connector rail down to the injectors again, from #1 to 6, then heard #6 snapped in, then the engine was like having its soul back. Cleared all the codes and it was running smooth but still with a clicking tapping noise near the head. Hydraulic lifter valve lash I thought. Bled the coolant while it idling to operating temp. The clicking noise still there at normal operating temp. Decided to drive it to work to see what happens. About 1.5 miles later local street, the clicking noise disappeared completely.

    Got home after work and changed oil and filled up with proper coolant. The old oil looked bad with water mixed from the damaging event.

    3/9/18
    Latest update: engine runs smooth as new. It is amazing how it survived with such abuse. I love the metal parts of this great engine, but hate all those plastic parts.


    First pic is the two cracked heads; block with drill on #1 thread hole; head was pulled out (during installation I looped the rear rope around the hoist pipe and used retches rope at front, better than this pic); 4th pic shows Time-sert and the JBweld jack bolt still there; head was out ready to lower on top the plastic trash bin safely.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Sapote; 10-09-2018 at 07:26 PM.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    SOUTHERN CAL
    Posts
    206
    My Cars
    2000 323i E46 wagon, '743.0Csi, '733.0CS, '67 912,
    The bullet proof ET tank
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Sapote; 03-10-2018 at 01:37 PM.

  23. #73
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    33149
    Posts
    83
    My Cars
    2009 BMW 328i E90 N52B30
    Hello guys:
    i am new here, I am not sure if it is allowed to ask similar situation casas from the original posters. Please confirm to me if that is ok.

    When replacing my valve cover gasket, I pulled the only stud that has a hole through on the cilindro head. The center one on the lower ( non driver side), beside the secondary air inlet.
    I just placed a stainless steel bolt and nut.

    After replacing my 2009 E90 328i N52 is runing at 112 F / 99 C.
    Ambient temperature is 75 F / 24 C.

    Isn’t that hat too much?

    DTC Fault Codes after replacing valve cover.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2372252-Many-DTC-Fault-codes-after-replacing-valve-cover
    Rod Lequerica. - Miami FL
    2009 BMW 328i E90 LCI Sedan Type PH77
    Engine: 6cyl 3lt N52B30A - Auto Trans: GM GA6L45R
    VIN WBAPH775X9NM Plus 5 last serial numbers
    EL_LEQUE_DELAE@YAHOO.COM
    +1 (786) 239 1329)

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lancaster CA
    Posts
    5,051
    My Cars
    e34,e38,e39,e46,e70,e90
    For Sapote,

    In general, when a car has a slight crack or failed gasket, it will run fine with sometimes no codes when hot because the metal heats up, closes the cracks and or tightens the gasket surface. When it sits overnight and cools, the cracks open up, allow water into the cylinder, which causes rough idle or misfires at start. This will continue until you either get a hydrolock or the crack/gasket finally fails bad and you start pouring steam out the back end.

    And yes, the M5x engines are great motors. I have a M50TU with the cast iron block at 246k miles in my e34, rebuilt the head 2 years ago, and still going great.
    Last edited by kouks; 04-02-2018 at 11:23 AM.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    SOUTHERN CAL
    Posts
    206
    My Cars
    2000 323i E46 wagon, '743.0Csi, '733.0CS, '67 912,
    KouKs, great photo. Where is the Black Bird located? My '74 midnight blue 3.0 CSi would look good next to the bird.

    the wagon with 2nd replacement heart is running great still.

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