When I bought my 325i the SRS light was blinking - one of several idiot mechanic inflicted problems inherited with the car. I thought resetting it would be pretty easy, but it took me quite a bit of time and effort, as well as some dumb luck trial and error, to get things working. Hopefully this will help others not have to go through the same brain damage.
*** Pseudo-legal disclaimer: This worked for me, it may not work for you. If you follow my instructions and blow up your SIR3 tool, your ECU, your car, your garage, or your house, well, it sucks to be you but I take no responsibility. ***
The only tool I know of that's capable of resetting the airbag light on these older cars is the Zymexx SIR3 tool. Peake won't do it. BF user Shogun sells the tool, and asked me to post my findings to help others. He ships quick and is very reasonably priced.
Basically, the problem is that the E24 and E30 airbag system isn't connected to the main diagnostic port. This is documented in pages 18-19 of this PDF:
http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf
Great. So first question, where is the connector you need to jump wires into? It's just under the dash. I was able to pull it out just by removing the 3 upper phillips head screws that hold the lower dash cover in place, like so:
As you can see, my blue jumper wire is connected to Pin 2 (white and purple) and my yellow jumper wire is connected to Pin 6 (white and yellow).
So far so good. I connected these wires to the SIR3 tool as described in the Baum Tools PDF above. For convenience, here's the relevant section of the doc, but note that this did NOT work for me:
I connected the tool as shown and probably tried resetting the airbag a dozen times - every time I got the blinking red light after reset that designates a communication error. Just when I was about to give up, I noticed that the green power light stayed on even after I disconnected the +12V wire. That seemed odd, so I tried swapping my red (+12V) and yellow (pin 6 on the SRS connector) wires. The pic below shows my connections:
IT WORKED!
My SRS light went out so I can pass safety inspection and my wife will actually ride in the car. Hopefully this will help someone who was getting as frustrated as I was.
Thanks for posting that Jason. I posted it also on the German E30 Talk as we discussed that problem for some years. Here one answer:
So instead of
Pin 14 = +12V
Pin 15 = RxD
Pin 19 = Ground
Pin 20 = TxD
I did
Pin 14 = RxD
Pin 15 = +12V
Pin 19 = Ground
Pin 20 = TxDThe SIR3 respect. BOA tool looks like this http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/BOA.jpgI made the same experience (plus: press the reset button at least 1 minute).
Airbag / SRS Light/Service/Oil and annual inspection (the clock sign) Reset Tool - all in 1 tool
This device is for resetting BMW models built from 1987 - 2003 with a 20 pins plug interface; WITHOUT can bus.
here some more info https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light-Now-what
Last edited by shogun; 01-23-2020 at 09:53 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Resurrecting old thread to let you know about some changes in the late-run of convertibles and how I got the Zymexx SIR3 to reset my airbag.
First, I had to really dig for my connector to tap into. And it's different. Designated as C280 in my 1993 schematics, and it has 8 wire holders in two rows of four. And the wire colors are somewhat different, so that was a little confusing. But it is really just as the tech bulletin that was issued has for the 1992 convertible. Pin 2 is now pin 7 and is blk/wht on one end and yellow/wht on the other. Pin 6 is wht/violet and isn't connected. In other words, there is no wire opposite it in the connector. This is the one that isn't connected to the diagnostic connector, or the tool would just be plug n play like it is in my 1999 M Roadster.
Thanks Shogun for the tool. It works as advertised. I'm really glad to have that SRS light off and working like it should.
1987 325is Zinneberot 5spd totally stock multiple show winner
1992 325iC M-Technic factory appearance package, Diamantschwarz metallic, black nappa leather, black top, Dinan chip, K&N CAI, Remus exhaust
1997 528i Schwartz II, 5spd stick daily driver
1999 M Roadster, Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3, Dinan CAI, Dinan throttle body, Redline driveline, LiquiMoly 5w40 engine, BC Racing BR coilovers, Motion Motorsport under panel, S54 radiator and fan delete, BavSound speakers, Kenwood CD/iPod/aux/Bluetooth
2001 Z3 3.0i coupe, Sapphire Black, auto (dang), suede headliner, LeatherZ sunroof screen
2016 228i, Sapphire Black, 6 speed, M Sport Package
1993 325iC, Schwarz II, custom leather, Bilstein HDs, Ansa sport, Royal Purple engine and driveline SOLD
1997 318ti Active, Bostongruen, daily driver SOLD
Happy to hear it worked for you, maybe we could meet up and do the same for my car...
Last edited by shogun; 01-23-2020 at 09:39 AM.
Just to comment that the same procedure done with the E30, worked at a E31 - 850iA ( 1990 ) ( exchanging cables 14 and 15 )
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...nfo+srs+module
SIR3 tool as well as the BOA is sold out, also the maker does not have any more stock and the qty they ask me for a new production series is by far too much. But here just for info some more hints for the use especially on E30 cars which have no connections to the diagnosis port, just in case you can find a used SIR3 http://s14net.vbulletin.net/forum/s1...ag-light-reset
I just keep 1 BOA for my own use and friends, that is basically the same as the SIR3, but has additionally a OBDII plug, BOA picture http://de.tinypic.com/usermedia.php?...c#.VFyk72ccSUk
Last edited by shogun; 12-15-2015 at 12:44 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
For the record, some e30 SRS systems are connected to the main diagnostic port. I am working on a friend's 1992 BMW e30 Cabriolet. I can read codes from its SRS light above the rear-view mirror by shorting pins 1 and 6 in the under hood "main diagnostic port" (a.k.a. diagnostic connector). For the detailed steps on reading codes when your e30 SRS unit is connected to the diagnostic connector, see https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=173007 .
I found that my friend's 1992 BMW's airbag needed replacement. I was able to reset the SRS light using the following steps:
-- Disconnect the battery.
-- Remove the small cover on the bottom side of the steering column.
-- Disconnect the orange connector that is underneath the small cover.
-- Purchase a resistor rated at 3.6 ohms and 1/4watt from a local electronics shop. I think other sizes between 2 ohms and 5 ohms will work as well.
-- Install the resistor in the connector's female end. This fools the diagnostic module into thinking a working airbag is installed. It clears the fault the diagnostic module was seeing.
-- Reset the SRS System (and so turn off the SRS light) using https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Special-Tools!!!
After the initial six second lamp test, the SRS light stays off. I am now shopping for a new airbag. Or I may try to take the old one apart (carefully) and see if there is anything obvious that I can fix.
Here's a write-up of my successful troubleshooting effort: https://sites.google.com/site/hondal...roubleshooting . I was able to avoid using any of those expensive "BMW Special Tools."
Last edited by honda.lioness; 10-28-2017 at 10:10 AM.
peake readers don't clear e30 codes. there is a key on key off procedure to pull and clear the codes with a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 6 on the diagnostic port.
Yes that's what I was referring to, has never worked for me. I've tried, given up, gone back and tried again, given up, repeat, officially given up. Black electrical tape has proven to be great way to 'clear' the codes. The codes I read from the flashing lights are not serious codes and were caused by an un-hook with battery connected so I'm not worried about the integrity of the system.
Last edited by sienayr; 10-20-2017 at 10:42 AM.
oh i getcha. have you tried disconnecting the battery and grounding pin 6 ? supposed to work on some 90 - 92 cars, verts with airbags etc. sorry i can't recall if it is key on when grounding the pin when doing this or not.
i think there is info buried in the posted r3v thread about it. actually got the info from an independent tech shop yrs ago when a friend was trying to clear an srs code on an airbag car. we had to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for a while before attempting it. it sat overnight but i don't think you have to wait that long.
Or just disconnect battery for a few minutes and bammo, done. SRS light is off
Someone else said to go under the hood and locate the diagnostic connector and connect to pins here. Which is it? I had some work done to the car including a new computer in the glove box and got the car back with the srs light flashing then being solid the whole time while I drive. Would rather not open the dash.
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