I just did this vac line mod to the wife's x5 2003 3.0. I gained access during a Long overdue ofh gasket change. Initial test drive was about 20 minutes of country driving which seemed to fully remove all of the oil moisture gunk! I will be monitoring oil consumption, which is 1qt/1000 miles.
02Pilot,
Greatly appreciate you starting this thread. I was burning about 1 quart every 800 miles with a brand new cold weather CCV (in San Diego, CA). I added the vacuum line 1 week ago and have driven 200+ miles and no noticeable burn.
I was also burning gas on deceleration. And the rate of consumption was considerably worse when I downshifted, I started coasting in neutral instead of downshifting and the consumption greatly decreased, this is what prompted me to try the vacuum line addition. I was able to add mine by just removing the intake box, air boot and unscrewing the housing that all the sensors come into. I also ripped all the insulation off the bottom of the CCV so I could access the vacuum port easily. Will update this as I put on more miles. Also I am running Castrol 5-30 BMW spec LL-01.
Thank you!
Travis
2.5 weeks and 1000 miles later it seems I've reduced my oil consumption. Was 1qt every 1000 miles. I might be a 1/4 qt low after this first 1000 miles since the mod, but I also fixed a huge OFH gasket leak at same time as access was gained. She still "honks" at startup after being parked outside in this cold weather we've been having here in N IL.
As I said in reply to your PM, just reach in to the back of intake and pull off the smaller of the two vacuum caps (actually you should probably pull them both and get new replacements, as they are likely disintegrating) - access is easy, no disassembly required. The smaller port on the back of the intake is the same diameter as the port on the CCV. Measure the cap ID and purchase appropriate hose.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Ahhhh! I see now. There's one behind the bigger one. Didn't catch that initially. And you are correct, the larger one that I pulled off was very very cracked and dry rotted. A likely suspect for these 171 and 174 codes I have been chasing to no avail for a year+.
Thanks much.
- - - Updated - - -
Annnd no. P0171 and 174 on the way to the store this evening.
I did the vacuum line fix on my m54, only 500 miles in but have used a minimal amount of oil, previously would have been 1/2 of a quart. Running castrol 5-30. Exhaust is noticeably cleaner, exhaust tips take a lot longer for carbon to build up.
Anyone else have an update/success story? I'll probably do it in the next week or two.
I tried the mod. Thanks 02Pilot for engineering and posting the mod. Seems to idle better on cold start.
I found the back of the manifold actually had three vacuum ports. One large and two small. The large port cap was badly cracked. I had a hell of a time getting the vacuum hose on the CCV vacuum port. The vacuum hose required is 3/16 size and you need two feet of it. The large cap is a 1/4 inch size.
BTW, I thought I post that I was able to do the mod with only removing the air filter box, intake boot and plastic shield near the brake booster. Have to admit it was not easy getting the hose onto the CCV nipple. Got to do it by feel at a very awkward angle. There's probably something that can be removed down there to make it easier but I just toughed it out.
The insulation on the winter version is just a two-piece molded outer layer; it is not bonded to the CCV itself at all. Just find a seam near where the port it and open it up.
As to the two small ports on the intake, I doubt there's any difference at all. Given their proximity to each other, I suspect they draw vacuum from exactly the same area of the manifold, and are thus interchangeable. Cover one, use the other, and you should be fine.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
O2pilot, my friend, I want to praise you again, for your dedication, research, explorations....and above all, for sharing your discoveries and testing results with everyone here!
Interestingly, a fellow tech, who was an instructor for BMW tech schools, pointed out that recent Mercedes engines have a true "centrifugal separator", driven by the camshaft, at the rear of the cylinder head.....and their intake manifolds are never wet with oil.
I'm hoping that every single owner of the new generation of turbo BMWs will install an oil catch can on their engines. Because I really hate seeing the nasty, intake-clogging mess that happens in a direct-injection motor!
But back to the point: For anyone reading this thread: YES, THIS WORKS! Yes, O2 pilot has found and shared a fix for a major issue which BMW's engineers have never been able to fix. It's EASY, and proven, over and over again, by all the contributors to this thread. If you have an M54 or M52TU with oil consumption issues, follow the above directions. This thread deserves to be on the sticky list, absolutely.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I tried Pilot's method.
I noticed no difference.
Regardless, the valve still clogs and freezes/ fails.
Using an oil catch can is truly the way to go IMO.
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Jason5driver, I'm interested to know the details of your attempt at this mod, since you seem to be a statistical outlier here. Did you do it in conjunction with a new CCV system? Did you modify or replace the guide tube to prevent blockage? Did you ensure that the crankcase was properly sealed? If you still saw lots of moisture/emulsion accumulation in the CCV, it had to coming from somewhere - my first guess would be a leak in the crankcase sealing somewhere. I've checked mine repeatedly, and even in this brutal NE winter the vent line from the valve cover to the CCV is clear of emulsion; I've had no problems with cold starts down to -5F or so.
Chris, thanks again for your kind words and support. I'm just happy to have stumbled onto something that appears to help deal with what seems to be a fairly common issue.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Here, here!
One last question to 02Pilot. Was it ever determined what the crankcase vacuum increase with the mod was? Did you or somebody else ever take a before and after mod reading? I tried taking the oil cap off and putting my hand over the opening. Seems like before I had almost no suction and now I have some.
There are numbers buried in the thread somewhere. IIRC it peaked around 10inHg, which is way more than the spec of 4-6inH2O. The way I did it was to take an old oil cap, drill it and tap in a barbed fitting, and ran a hose to a vacuum gauge that I stuck up at the base of the windshield so I could monitor it while driving. It's a lot more vacuum, which makes it all the more important that the crankcase is properly sealed; if there are leaks or weak points, this mod will expose them.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Hi...
Yes, I connected the vacuum hose from a new OEM dealer CCV to the back of the Intake Manifold, with new hoses.
Also had the system smoke checked and pressure checked from my local BMW mechanic as well.
There was no difference in the system.
However, I did find the precat O2's to be heavily caked with a white film, which I replaced with new O2's.
And, same thing found on the spark plugs as well, which were also replaced with new OEM NGK 4-prong plugs.
I also did the Disa repair with the kit from GermanAutoSolutions, which is great IMO, highly recommend...
Also had my stock OEM oil dipstick tube modified/ drilled-out by my local mechanic, as a more affordable alternative to the new BMW modified dipstick tube.
My car is on it's 4th CCV.
And, I found the valve frozen this winter, with clogged hoses, sourcing directly from the valve.
I had to remove the entire CCV system and Air Distribution Piece completely and clean it all throughtout in the cold (not fun).
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Jason, out of curiousity, does your commute consist of only short drives? Certainly, the CCV seems to "store" water, when the system is never brought up to temperature, to allow condensation to burn off. The insulated cold weather package seems to somewhat alleviate the freezing of water vapor.
However, the focus of this thread was to address the propensity of the M54 to consume oil, through the CCV system. Certainly, the system can still freeze, given short drives, frozen condensation, non cold-weather packages, and extreme conditions. I've noted that the N-generation engines have electrically heated CCV tubes,
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Morning drive to work is ~15 minutes.
On the way home, I pick up the kids, so the drive time is longer/varies.
My guess as to why my car's CCV is failing so rapidliy is because it has gunked up the piston rings and valve stems seals/ valves significantly over the years.
When I last replaced the spark plugs recently, I could see massive carbon build-up down inside the spark plug ports.
The last 2-3 oil changes, I have been using Amsoil Engine/Transmission Flush to help clean out the system.
I also use Amsoil Performance Improver Gasoline additive at each oil change to also help clean out the system as well.
However, neither has really done much from what I have seen unfortunately.
I am thinking about trying some Sea Foam next, or some Rislone Piston Ring Cleaner.
Oh, and the last 2 CCV kits have been the Cold Weather CCV kits.
Here is a recent thread by BimmerFiver installing an oil catch can on his 525i.
He was also on his 4th CCV.
Thread:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ch-Can-Install
Here is another thread by BavarianE39 bypassing the CCV, and installing an Auto Zone pcv and pathing it directly into the Intake Manifold/ Air Distribution Piece.
Thread:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
Thanks,
Jason
Last edited by Jason5driver; 03-01-2015 at 08:10 PM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
I am certainly in favor of oil catch cans, appropriately installed, with correct vacuum on the system.
To remove carbon deposits,for those who understand technical operations, I recommend:
Bring engine to operating temp.
Attach a small hose to the intake tract, likely at the intake elbow.Attach the other end of that hose to a coke bottle full of plain water.
Rev engine, and at the same time allow water into the intake tract, in CAREFULLY MEASURED amounts! Do NOT allow engine to stall !!!
Cold water in careful amounts on hot valves and pistons makes carbon deposits go away instantly.
Please note that this is dangerous, if you do not understand hydrolock.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thank you for the reply and awesome information!
Do you think my commute time is too short, which is causing the CCV to freeze/ fail?
I mentioned to my local speed-shop that I was looking into installing an oil catch can, but after I described about the stock CCV on the M54, the guy recommended against it, because of the required vacuum through the M54, which would throw a check engine light.
Is the vacuum through the M54 that much more significant than the M50 and M52?
The M50 has a t-fitting (at the valve cover) that connects to the intake elbow (larger hose), and the other to the ICV (smaller hose), and that is it.
Why can't the M54 be that simple...?
LOL...
Also, I have read about connecting to the intake to cleanout carbon build-up, but with guys using Sea Foam, sometimes connecting to the hose at the brake booster.
Last edited by Jason5driver; 03-01-2015 at 09:29 PM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
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