Oil consumption after CCV replacement

[forzam]

Is the nipple on the CCV capped? The picture in post 214 looks like it's blocked off. Do you just pull a cap off?

also, is 3/16ths the correct vacuum hose diameter?

[MarcoZandrini]

Is the nipple on the CCV capped? The picture in post 214 looks like it's blocked off. Do you just pull a cap off? also, is 3/16ths the correct vacuum hose diameter?

Yes, the nipple on the ccv body is capped. As noted above, 3/16" hose is a bit too big. Buy a few feet of vacuum hose at the stealer.

[forzam]

Ok, thanks. I have about 27" of hose from the dealer. Do you think this will be long enough?

[MarcoZandrini]

Ok, thanks. I have about 27" of hose from the dealer. Do you think this will be long enough?

Yes, that should be long enough.

[moise]

I did "the mod", or at least I think I did it, but my oil consumation didn't change.
I said that I think I did the mod because I didn't connect the tube from the CCV to the plug that you said and I used the one that in the picture below is called "dummy plug", is that ok? It seemed to me that it goes to the same place and it had a cap on that I removed. The other one, the one that you all used it had another tube conected so that is why I used the one next to it, which is twice as big and I had to use a bigger tube and a reduction.

So to sum it up is the plug that I used OK or is just a dummy plug that goes nowhere?

[02Pilot]

I'd just T into the smaller vent. Did you confirm that there is in fact manifold vacuum at the larger port? Are your connections properly sealed? What is your measured crankcase vacuum before and after?

[Dave1027]

If you did use the large port you need some kind of reducer. Better to use a vauum T on one of the small ports.

[Hirot]

Having replaced a new BMW CCV with a new Febi CCV I hoped my grey smoke problem would go away. It didnt, so I did the mod and it worked perfectly.
I am happy to alter the dipstick tube, maybe by drilling from the side as per the E49 thread, but how quickly do I need to do this as my tube was clear and I had no mayo anywhere.
Has anyone tried putting a restrictor tube in the 1/8 vacuum pipe to reduce the amount of suction....or will that not affect vacuum strength.
As the mod seems to always be producing a vacuum does this mean that the CCV valve no longer functions and is the oil returning to the sump or just getting burnt ?
And if I can measure the vacuum with and without the new vacuum pipe mod are you still collecting data.
Thanks to 02Pilot for all the work. I have now read this whole thread 4 times and it is starting to make sense.

[maxell0405]

I did this mod a few months ago (post 274 above) and have driven 3k miles since then. At 1500 miles I checked the oil and it was down almost a quart. I was disappointed, as that is no improvement at all. I added a quart (Mobil 0w40) and have since put on another 1500 miles. I have just checked the oil and have had a barely noticeable amount of consumption. It's down maybe the width of a finger nail, which indicates that the burn is at a rate of a quart in about 7500 miles, at most, which is my typical change interval. Amazing. I'll keep checking every 1500 miles, but I am pretty confident that my days of adding oil between changes are in the past. The car runs fine, except it now has a little stumble when started from cold. Just for a second, then the idle is perfect, and if the car is even a little warm, it starts without the stumble. Not an issue for me, but thought I'd mention it in the name of full disclosure.

[02Pilot]

Glad to see that others are experiencing similarly positive results from this mod. I've had mine going for quite some time now with no additional issues and virtually zero oil consumption.

The only thing I've noticed over time is that in certain driving situations the brakes may feel slightly overboosted, presumably due to the increased vacuum acting on the booster. Probably not the sort of thing that most people would even notice, but I'm a big fan of very firm (most would say hard) brake pedals, so any sort of squish is instantly recognizable.

[bmwdirtracer]

As an aside, my friend:

Why, exactly, do you think BMW "improved" the system on, say, the E34 M5? A very well-baffled valve cover, a tube that goes to a simple large separator, with drainback? Sure, I'll say they "improved" it for emissions, but someone's going to have to explain why the newer systems do any better of a job, or prevent emission any better. My intake manifold is always pretty damned clean, and there's nothing there that's known to break, um, almost ever. I've replaced one rubber CCV hose. Sure, I do use a quart every 6-7k miles, but the seriously hard-used engine has 191k miles, and gets much track use, so I don't worry a bit about that. Unlike E46s. my oil level sensor works PERFECTLY, lets me know when the engine is 1/2 quart low.Sensor is 25 years old.

Modern BMWs and Minis typically consume many times more than this, without the 200k miles and extreme use. So which is better for emissions?

I have an 07 Mini on my lift, N/A. 101k miles. Car came in with timing codes, vanos codes, and exactly 1/2 a quart of oil in it. Owner said she's been seeing the RED oil can for a week. She thought it meant time to make appointment for a service.

Now, gentlemen, I have nothing but the very highest respect for the ladies which put up with us.

But hey, dammit, it's OUR JOB to teach them WTF a red oil can means! "Shut off the engine immediately, and THEN look for where to pull over. Yes, no sh*t, that's exactly what I said, darling"

To any lady reading this, well, you're one of a kind, I'm not really being sexist, just respectful and protective



Interestingly, the local dealer has five MINI engines in stock, $3800.each. (Car does not have an oil level sensor, duh....)

[02Pilot]

I think there's a lot more going on than just the crankcase ventilation setup. The hunt for incremental efficiency gains has led to a whole host of modifications designed for fuel economy rather than longevity, power, or common sense. As I theorized way back when, I believe the oil consumption problem in the M54 is the result of ring float. Why are those rings fluttering all over the place? I'll bet it has something to do with the idea that they were designed to minimize frictional losses on the cylinder walls, which is great, except when it isn't. CAFE standards are what concern the manufacturers, while increasingly draconian emissions standards and testing are presumed to address problems that crop up later. Who pays for that new catalytic converter or major engine work? Isn't it easier to just go buy a new car?

The quality of a lot of ancillary parts is a different issue, I think. Going cheap with suppliers of this sensor or that control module is bound to result in some things going pear-shaped earlier than on the older cars. Annoying, but not nearly as much so as with compromises in major mechanical systems. Hell, my cars have dipsticks for checking the oil - what do I need a level sensor for?

On the last point, I'll say only this. My girlfriend's father was a heavy equipment mechanic. She drives exclusively manual transmissions and changes her own oil. By choice.

[bmwdirtracer]

Does your girlfriend have a sister?

[02Pilot]

Several, but the mechanical aptitude didn't rub off on them.

[bluebottle]

Feedback after four months since the mod (but still with old dipstick pipe).

2 litres (4 pints) of oil consumed in approx 1600 miles and 1.0 litre in the past month (400 miles). Needless to say, something isn't working, my consumption is increasing!!

I'll check dipstick for blockage, loose pipes and look for leaks tomorrow (although nothing on ground under car). I still drive gently always letting engine warm before exceeding 2500 rpm and when engine is hot I'll take it to 6000rpm for a few seconds each week.

I'm quite concerned!! Should I have noticed an improvement by now?

[02Pilot]

Did you do all of the necessary maintenance items and ensure that the block is not allowing vacuum leaks anywhere? You said you've still got the old dipstick guide tube - does that mean you never checked to see if it was blocked, or that you cleaned it but did not modify or replace it? As I made clear in the post describing the mod, it is essential that all of the preconditions be met if the mod is to work as designed. Just introducing a lot more vacuum to a leaky block or CCV system is bound to make things worse.

[Jason5driver]

Pilot,
Have you seen this thread?
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
Thoughts?

[bluebottle]

Thanks O2Pilot. I'd just like to say that I am in no way unhappy with your advice (or any other info here), although I am very frustrated with this problem of oil consumption.

May I refer you back to my post on this thread 05-11-2015, 01:28 PM and add that since replacing my CCV and pipes the original dipstick tube and adjoining pipe to CCV have remained very clear - I've just checked again now.

What I do have now is a leaky cyl head cover gasket - there is a covering of oil over my air-con compressor. So I guess I'll have to do that again (that must have lasted no more than 6000 miles!!) and speak to someone about welding my dipstick tube.

[02Pilot]

Sorry, I didn't have time to go back through the whole thread to see what you had done. A leaking VCG is definitely an issue, though. I really recommend a smoke test for the block if you want to be sure you've solved the vacuum leaks. Fixing or replacing the dipstick guide tube with the updated part is definitely a good idea.

It is, of course, also possible that your oil consumption is being caused by something else. Are you seeing oil smoke from the tailpipe on deceleration? Any leakage beyond the VCG?

- - - Updated - - -

Pilot,
Have you seen this thread?
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
Thoughts?

Well, I have now. I toyed with similar approaches when I was actively trying to solve the problem; I've still got a bunch of parts in the garage from my experiments. There's no reason that sort of setup shouldn't work - functionally, it's not really much different, in that it is introducing more vacuum to the crankcase via the post-throttle intake manifold. However, given the increased area of the six nozzles of the distribution piece being used as the vacuum source over the single small diameter hose I used, the transitions in vacuum will be much more rapid and probably quite abrupt; I'm not sure how this will affect the sealing of the block over time. That arrangement is probably even more sensitive to vacuum leaks in the block as well. I'd probably at least add a restrictor into the line.

Personally, I prefer the approach I finally took, simply because it 1) keeps things neater (I'm not a big fan of electrical tape in oil-fume evacuation applications, for example), and 2) retains an oil separator and drain in the system.

[bluebottle]

Continuing my post 09-19-2015, 04:41 AM

I have just ordered a genuine Valve cover gasket, I already have the Oil filter Housing gasket, but orderd an aux drive belt while I do the OFHG.

I have spent two hours on forums unsuccessfully trying to find a definitive method to modify my dipstick guide tube, so am hoping someone would be kind enough to point me in the right direction. I have also requested an up to date price on the genuine modified guide tube as RealOEM is currently showing

Guide tube 1 07/2003 11437531258 $40.73

Thanks folks

[MarcoZandrini]

My 2001 330Ci goes though a quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 in about 500 miles. My big concern is that the cats will become fouled and I'll have to put Fritz down.

After reading all the great posts about piston soaking, adding a vacuum line to the CCV body and (my personal fav; hey I'm 2nd gen Italiano) the "Italian method," I've decide to go the oil catch can route. I've received the air distribution rubber rings (mine are 15 years old), and I've been looking for a source of quality braided vacuum hose. I'll mount it in the drug bin.

I think the managers at BMW must have assigned the design of the CCV to a junior engineer from the old East Germany. Or maybe to a former Audi engineer.

[02Pilot]

Bluebottle, the updated dipstick guide tube you want in p/n 11437565437. Modifying the old one involves chopping off the lower portion, removing the inner sleeve, and welding it back up. Probably not worth attempting unless you have a welder.

Marco, have you tried the mod described in this thread? I ask because it's so much less involved than properly setting up a self-draining catch can arrangement.

[bluebottle]

Thanks O2 Pilot,

I'll look into that and report with results.

[MarcoZandrini]

Bluebottle, the updated dipstick guide tube you want in p/n 11437565437. Modifying the old one involves chopping off the lower portion, removing the inner sleeve, and welding it back up. Probably not worth attempting unless you have a welder. Marco, have you tried the mod described in this thread? I ask because it's so much less involved than properly setting up a self-draining catch can arrangement.

Thanks for the inquiry, 02. No, I didn't add the vacuum line to the CCV body. It seems that it works ok, so I decided to go the OOC route. We know it worx well.

[Z3C Tblau]

Bluebottle, the updated dipstick guide tube you want in p/n 11437565437.
...

Hello O2Pilot,

The p/n you gave doesn't match with the parts catalog... ?

I'd like to do the mod on my Z (M54B30) but apparently there hasn't been any upgrade for the dipstick tube.

When I've changed the CCV and hoses a couple years back I cleaned the tube and the bottom end looked exactly like the E46 older version. Nonetheless, I've always had mayonnaise on the dipstick (when the weather isn't nice, not all year round)
Could it be that I have another version of this tube? or maybe some goo can get sloshed out of the external tube back in the inner one?

Well I got to get back to the dealer with a p/n and can't find another one than the one bluebottle provided... where did you find yours?

Thanks for your invaluable help in resolving this oil-guzzling problem