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Thread: Oil consumption after CCV replacement

  1. #426
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    Dave1027, it's difficult to say why your idle quality changed when removing the mod, but it may simply be that you're pulling more oil into the combustion chambers without the vacuum equalization and it's affecting combustion efficiency.





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  2. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
    Dave1027, it's difficult to say why your idle quality changed when removing the mod, but it may simply be that you're pulling more oil into the combustion chambers without the vacuum equalization and it's affecting combustion efficiency.
    True as the DME has adjusted for it. If the Adaptation get cleared, it would go back to the base again, or perhaps you disturbed something and that caused a vacuum leak?
    Darin
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  3. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
    Dave1027, it's difficult to say why your idle quality changed when removing the mod, but it may simply be that you're pulling more oil into the combustion chambers without the vacuum equalization and it's affecting combustion efficiency.
    Hi O2Pilot,

    Thanks for responding. I have to point out that I do not have any oil burning issue. Never had it. The insides of my exhaust pipes are clean as a whistle.

    My theory about the rough idle is that your mod increases vacuum in the crankcase which helps the piston rings to seal better. Without that help sealing the cold idle is rough. When the engine warms the pistons and rings expand and the engine then idles better.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    True as the DME has adjusted for it. If the Adaptation get cleared, it would go back to the base again, or perhaps you disturbed something and that caused a vacuum leak?
    I would also think that I might have caused a vacuum leak BUT... I remember before I originally installed the mod I had rough cold idle then. It even threw misfire codes sometimes. Installing the mod fixed that. Then the rough idle came back after I removed the mod.

  4. #429
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    Well for me, the mod really didn't do much for my oil consumption. So instead of adding a quart every 2-3k miles, now I only add a quart every 3-4k miles. I have also tried the upper cylinder cleaning method to see if the rings were sticking/dirty. Soaked it in overnight on a hot engine, even turned the motor over by hand to see about it getting down into the rings too, still didn't help. CCV was replaced 5 years ago with the cold weather kit from BMW, and it works properly as I do have a slack tube manometer.

    I have ZERO oil leaks, and there should be oil soot on the back of the car, which I also don't have. So what I have left is it's going into the coolant, but changed the coolant last year and ZERO milk there either. So I am thinking that it's getting burned, but not past the rings, but the valve stems. At high RPM's shifting, I don't see any smoke either so again another head scratcher for me.

    BTW the wagon just turned over 155k miles, and the mod has been in place for about 2 years now.
    Last edited by dworthy; 10-14-2020 at 02:44 AM.
    Darin
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  5. #430
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    dworthy,

    Turns out I owe you an apology. You nailed it. I do have a vacuum leak and something I probably did cause. It's either the CCV hose to the dipstick tube or it's the dipstick tube o-ring. When I removed the mod it was in conjunction with a couple of other jobs I did. I replaced the valve cover gasket and the dipstick o-ring. My poor idle was getting progressively worse and finally it kicked up lean codes p0171 and p0174. I just now used OBD Fusion and a can of carb cleaner to identify the leak.

  6. #431
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    No worries, we all learn from each other around here, glad to hear you fixed the issue.

    As these cars age, the rubber will turn to plastic and get brittle, and plastic will crack and get brittle too. I have gotten into the habit that whatever I remove that's original, it gets replaced now.

    BTW, it's not advisable to use a flamable around the engine unless you have a fire extinguisher close at hand. Also it will only find gross vacuum leaks, and unlikely to find the small leaks. This is the main reason why I always recommend getting the intake smoke tested.
    Last edited by dworthy; 10-28-2020 at 04:47 AM.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  7. #432
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    Hi, I just registered for this thread to ask question if I may. beware it's long post, please do not make me pay $5000 admins

    I read whole thread and I think I do understand 02Pilot solution clearly, actual oil consumption is still mystical but solution is clear and proved to be working, no matter it is ring flutter or valve seals. matters that many users reported substantial reduction in oil consumption...my current situation is ideal for this mod, I replaced whole CCV with genuine parts with Cold Climate version and after some time I noticed increased oil consumption, which was making my head scratch. (I opened old CCV and was looking good inside, no sludge what so ever, no torn rubber) I just replaced as preventive maintenance since whole internets screams old CCV is cause of oil burn problem and needs replacing, so I did but Hell, I get about 1L on 1000km burn...that's just beyond me, previously it was half of that on old non cold CCV...(climate is mostly warm, temps go -0 rarely, week or two max maybe)

    I have tested system on smoke machine, nothing is leaking, Vacuum is prefect since I replaced everything on intake over time. I tested it with my friends shop and they almost boosted my intake, anyhow, intake has no vacuum leaks. also when I was replacing CCV I removed oil dipstick tube and cleaned with brake clean, it was sludge free anyways, but YES it is old design with small drain.

    so I think all this makes me perfect candidate for 02Pilot Mod...I searched for updated tube 11437565437 and it's not exactly cheap + I live in forgotten country and to purchase and import I am close to $200, this kind money I can buy M3 seats locally damn it.

    Question starts from here:

    I watched 50skid and he is using Check Valve/One Way Valve to prevent possible oil suction from sump and all seems fine. Check Valve he linked and used is with spring mechanism that requires some minimum opening pressure(not specified in items description) to check valve open and let oil drain into sump, I also asked M539 Restorations about his e46 and he answered that he did as 50skid. I like and respect both channels but here is caveat, I purchased Check Valve (description says: Opening pressure: >0.015MPA) and before I go install I tested it with my precise lungs and this is where my concern is coming. I do not know how much is >0.015MPA but it requires effort to open it, like when you whistle somewhat medium to strong. it's all relative, but it will not open under just accumulated oil over this valve, I am sure of it. it will open and drain oil in sump ONLY and ONLY if blow-by from engine to ccv to check valve or vacuum from sump side is somewhat equal or more than someone whistles, like medium strength. I know someone asked in midtread about check valve but it was very casual and answer from 02 was yes no problem, but there was not any kind data of in depth understanding behind it, I think we need to debug more about this.

    question is: is there any chance that check valve will get enough opening pressure to drain oil in sump?..it is clear that this check valve will not let suction from sump, but my concern is that will it drain? if someone can relate please help me understand how it will or will not work, I am ready to make this mod, but not 100% on check valve solution. only assuring thing I know is that 50skid and M539 Restorations using check valve and it seems to work for them as none of them reported other ways.

    thank u for reading this much

  8. #433
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    I can't give you a definitive answer, since I never put a one-way valve in mine. In your situation, my suggestion would be to pull the original dipstick guide tube, cut it open below the drain, remove the inner portion, and weld it back together (or have someone else do it). That's what I did and it was fine for tens of thousands of miles, including NY winters. As long as everything is clean and unobstructed there should be no issue.





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  9. #434
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    Hi 4 years ago I had a320i that I changed the CCV with all Febi parts and it started using oil, which it hadn't done before. So I tried just a BMW CCV and still had the problem. Also have a 330ci so I got a low vacuum gauge and monitored both cars. Then changed the springs in the CCV and achieved nothing. Used O2Pilot tube and hey presto much better oil consumption. Then fitted oil catch can and it improved even more.
    The reason for the post is that I just changed the CCV on my 330 as I was changing the starter motor. Used Febi parts. Big mistake as the 330i had just done 5000 miles and used very little oil. New CCV car starts burning oil on overrun. So, thinking this can't be coincidence as it had happened twice now, I bought a complete BMW CCV kit and immediately you could see that it fitted together tightly. So just replaced the Febi CCV kit with BMW bits and low and behold no more smoke. From what I can see whilst the Febi kit looks the same it just doesn't seal at the connections especially the difficult pipe that goes up through the manifold. So basically I had introduced vacuum leaks which I guess on my 320i was fixed by the O2Pilot tube and catch can.

  10. #435
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    Febi's quality is not what it once was, sadly. I suspect they are more inconsistent than always ill-fitting, but that's conjecture, and certainly doesn't make them any more appealing. Thanks for posting your experience.





    Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid.
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  11. #436
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    I agree, Febi seems to be on the lower end in quality from my observations.

  12. #437
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    I tried the BMW parts before fitting them and they seemed to properly click together and hold tight. Whereas the Febi ones were loose ie there was a little movement in them especially the manifold one. I have to say I had no confidence in the Febi parts and thought I was going to have a problem when I fitted them.
    Annoying thing is I fixed something that wasn't broke and it cost me £80.
    I guess I had nothing better to do in the current climate.
    Just gotta monitor my Torque Converter now as it threw a slipping code after I replaced the starter which I am hoping was a glitch when I reconnected the power.

  13. #438
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    so, after thinking about Check Valve solution I realized that Oil Dipstick Guide Tube is submerged into oil in oil sump. this means blowby from sump side will not enter into oil return hose and so it will not create junction for Check Valve to drain oil into sump...only possible pressure on Check Valve will occur from Valve Cover/CCV side and making it work, open valve and drain oil in sump. so this Check Valve solution seems valid to me finally, and it's also cheapest option plus I think it's even safer than only Cold Climate Guide Tube without check valve...

    so I did it, today I officially pimped my ride with 02 mod. I hope I will see improvement, as for now my engine with all New Genuine BMW CCV drinks somewhat more than 1L oil on 1000km, will report results after.

    ***I will note one odd/disturbing thing I encountered when making this modification. when I sliced oil return hose from CCV to Sump to install Check Valve in middle I found out that it was completely dry and I mean dry, not a single drop of oil inside that OIL RETUN TUBE, how is that even possible??...I installed New CCV with all new parts more than Year AGO. if this is not evidence how much Original CCV does not do its job separating oil from air, than I do not know what is. this is why my oil consumption increased when I installed new CCV because it is feeding all blowby from valve cover directly to intake...

    I am attaching some infographic I made and also some pics.
    o2_pilot_diagram.jpgIMG_5757.jpgIMG_5760.jpgIMG_5764.jpgIMG_5765.jpg

  14. #439
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    Based on the dry CCV drain, you may have an obstruction somewhere downstream of the valve. Did you pull the distribution piece to confirm that it is not obstructed? Did you measure vacuum in the crankcase?





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  15. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
    Based on the dry CCV drain, you may have an obstruction somewhere downstream of the valve. Did you pull the distribution piece to confirm that it is not obstructed? Did you measure vacuum in the crankcase?
    well I honestly do not know, it might be somehow obstructed or CCV does not do anything at all...I did not take pictures but I remember Original CCV that came from factory when I removed it was also clean, not dry but not as oil as I was expecting it to be. I never checked crankcase vacuum, but it might be a good idea now when mod is done, 50s kid measured before and after and if am lucky now at least there will be vacuum.

    as for inspection, when I was doing this mod I did not removed actual distribution piece, I just removed Throttle body and all surroundings to get to CCV and I just slipped on rubber tube. I will also note that this CCV to Sump tube was dry inside but tip was oily, where it connects to CCV (yellowish oil).

    year ago when I purchased full CCV it came half assembled, than I removed hoses to kinda inspect visually and it seemed OK, after all it was Original BMW part and I was not expecting some poor quality junk, I have pictures and I'll attach how it came and when I inspected.

    IMG_3876.jpgIMG_3879.jpgIMG_3883.jpg

  16. #441
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    Those six O-rings are for the distribution piece. Pop it out and blow it out with solvent and compressed air. It's very easy for those small ports to get blocked, and if they do you're not going to see any vacuum at all in the CCV (without the mod; with the mod you introduce another source). Definitely measure the vacuum in the crankcase, though. Doing the mod without knowing the before and after vacuum states is silly - you want to know what's going on in there, and measuring the vacuum is easy.





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  17. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
    Those six O-rings are for the distribution piece. Pop it out and blow it out with solvent and compressed air. It's very easy for those small ports to get blocked, and if they do you're not going to see any vacuum at all in the CCV (without the mod; with the mod you introduce another source). Definitely measure the vacuum in the crankcase, though. Doing the mod without knowing the before and after vacuum states is silly - you want to know what's going on in there, and measuring the vacuum is easy.
    sry I have to correct myself, I thought ccv itself when u mentioned distribution peace and asked me if it was obstructed. sry for my inattentive.

    when I replaced CCV I removed that Distribution Peace, I cleaned it with solvent and replaced all O-rings...it was clean and free, no sign of obstruction of any kind. I replaced everything that even close to CCV, every single thing is new and without vacuum leaks(that I know because I tested). so we can rule out obstruction, that's I am sure now. I do think that I have fully functional CCV as BMW intended it to be at least. not measuring vacuum before and after is probably silly, but I was sure that my intake was not leaking and CCV was all new.


    I will test it in near future, I can remove rubber tube at the back of intake and do proper before and after tests perhaps. meanwhile I will keep an eye on oil level.

    **Note: after mod I drove it and engine was pulling stronger than ever, it was spinning wheels on just kickdown in first gear(and I have good tires) dry conditions. I had blast driving it. I do not know if it's somehow related to mod, I had moments like that when engine behaves like crazy couple times. maybe it has some effect removing pressure from engine block (kinda what dry sump does). just saying, more driving will tell.


    IMG_3937.jpgIMG_3941.jpgIMG_3954.jpgIMG_3955.jpg

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    Last edited by bbom; 01-19-2021 at 04:26 PM.

  18. #443
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    Hi, good day to you and thank you for the time you put into this mod. I'd like to know which post you have the complete parts list as I am doing this mod on my X M54 engine. Hope to hear from you soon and once again, thank you.

  19. #444
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  20. #445
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    Besides the CCV parts linked above, the only thing you need is a few feet of oil-resistant flexible tubing. I don't recall the diameter - just measure the small nipple on the CCV and use that.





    Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid.
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  21. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by arnie66 View Post
    Hi, good day to you and thank you for the time you put into this mod. I'd like to know which post you have the complete parts list as I am doing this mod on my X M54 engine. Hope to hear from you soon and once again, thank you.
    hi, I purchased exactly those parts for me, it's cheapest option even now I think. some regular hoses are not OE or Genuine, but fitment is good. most importantly CCV itself is Genuine BMW part. after installment I checked on leaks and there was none.

    this is main parts u need for CCV replacement.
    $47.57 - "Cold Climate" Oil Separator Kit
    $15.63 - Breather Hose
    $8.67 - Dipstick Hose

    also highly recommend to replace those parts, which I did.
    11617502761 - 6x Distribution Peace O-rings
    13641437486 - 6x Fuel Injector O-Ring
    11431717666 - 2x Dipstick O-Ring Upper
    11431740045 - Dipstick O-Ring Lower
    13547504729 - Throttle Body Gasket

    helps installation.
    $1.69 - Silicone Grease

    for this mod, you need.
    11727545323 - Rubber Hose (3,5X1,8)
    11437565437 - Cold Climate Dipstick Tube Guide oooooooooooorrr install $10 one way valve(check valve) in middle of Dipstick Hose. search 50skid CCV video for more visual content. check post #438 as well
    $10 Rubber Caps (for plugging probably cracked ports at back of int. manifold)

    I think it is all parts. if you decide to change more parts while u doing all this, better, it's up to u. also check RealOEM
    Last edited by bbom; 03-24-2021 at 07:32 PM.

  22. #447
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    I do have that item from fcpeuro but the CCV don't have the small nipple for the vacuum line on the intake or distribution panel. It is wrapped with an insulation like foam...

  23. #448
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    I do have those parts including the dipstick guide tube o'ring seal, I'd like to order the cold climate version of the dipstick guide tube but even BMW North America don't recognize those item and even local BMW. What they give is the basic guide tube part number since they based their search on vehicle's VIN..Screen Shot 2021-03-24 at 11.02.39 PM.png
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #449
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    I do have those parts including the dipstick guide tube o'ring seal, I'd like to order the cold climate version of the dipstick guide tube but even BMW North America don't recognize those item and even local BMW. What they give is the basic guide tube part number since they based their search on vehicle's VIN..<img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=688163&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="688163" alt="" id="vbattach_688163" class="previewthumb">

  25. #450
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    02Pilot...Besides the CCV parts linked above, the only thing you need is a few feet of oil-resistant flexible tubing. I don't recall the diameter - just measure the small nipple on the CCV and use that.

    I purchased that part mentioned above from FCPEuro which is cold climate version but that particular PRV don't have that small nipple located in the middle of the assembly which is where the tubing inserted and hooked up in the vacuum line in the intake manifold or distribution assembly. Since I already have that PRV that don't have the middle nipple for the vacuum line then where I could get that vacuum pressure for the intake manifold. Once again, thank you to all..
    Last edited by arnie66; 03-25-2021 at 03:23 AM.

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