I'm confused as to how the lollipop bushing orientation will determine caster.
I'm also forgetting that the WHOLE control arms are different geometry from 1995
to 96-99. Dang puzzles.
Hey fenderbender, I am doing a build on a 95 325I soon, how did you route the turbo inlet pipe without deleting the a/c lines? Could anyone else point me out in the right direction? Thanks!
If you could pm me a picture of this that would be greatly appreciated! I am about to tackle my budget build and the a/c tubes feel pretty damn strong and cost a lot to replace haha. Nice build though, great example of how someone can do a lot with their own sweat, blood, and a little bit of money.
loving this car !!! mi m3 grow model
Thanks! M50325, here is a quick crappy picture of the intake piping. It was taken to see the camber plates, not the pipe so bear with.
Have the front setup almost done-
Not sure how low it's going to be yet, I'm pretty sure I'll be raising it up from where my settings are now though. I went 1" lower than TRM suggests (I think their settings make it sit a little high in the front) but followed their 1/2" preload setting.
I finished the other hub wheel studs and all, installed both knuckles, control arms, tie rods, wheel speed sensors (they were very very dirty, may be causing ABS light) strut assemblies, stainless brake lines, and such. It's starting to come together. I am now waiting on my AKG control arm bushings so I can finish the front end up.
Tomorrow I should have my Wilwood calipers on with the E46 M3 rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads. I have to trim the brake/backing shield plate first to fit the calipers.
Then I can figure out what size spacers I will need.
Very Sexy.
Goo Gone to get those beautifully adhering Alemanian stickers off your parts.
It's strange to see the MAF over there.
Sorry if I missed it. What BBK did you go with or did you DIY it?
Thanks for the picture, looks like ill just have to pray, jimmy it a bit and hope for the best. Once I start my build I may be PMing you with questions as you have a very good looking build if that'd be alright with you?
Picked some things up from the blaster today:
Went to town:
Started on the Wilwood install:
Trimmed backing plate:
Installed:
Gonna press these in tomorrow and the front will be done minus bleeding the brakes and alignment.
Anyone know if the fat end of the bushing goes towards the front or rear of the car?
I'd say the large end toward the front
as the lower control arm will be HOLDING it into the lollipop (against the bushing's flanges (large part),
rather than gently pushing it (or helping it to slip/slide out of the rear.
Front control arm bushings in, rear wishbone bushings pressed in.
Front end is finished up save bleeding the brakes. Was going to finish it buttt.......I realize I need spacers, my wheels touch the coilovers. Doh!
Progress made today:
Homebrew spacers, cut down the old rotors then lath them. Walah!
Rear setup is ready, minus camber arms (not pictured)
Rear end torn apart and ready for install:
Two of my homebrew 6mm spacers was enough to clear the wheel from the strut, so I'm going to purchase 2 12mm for the fronts. The 6mm will work perfect for the rear.
Ran into a moment, I forgot my 325 axles won't work in these hubs! Anyone have a spare set of the bigger ones? Not sure if it's just M3 or 328 as well.
Last edited by Fender13Bender; 03-24-2012 at 12:25 PM.
I believe they have different input flanges for the diff.
-sold...replaced by turbo e36
Correct...the outer SPLINED end of the axles that moves thru the HUBS are different diameter. If you use M3 hubs, use M3 axles.
I believe the output flanges one the diff ARE the same.
The input flange on the diff is where the drive shaft attaches.
The outputs would be the six (6) Torx bolt flanges.
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