Going back to my swap.
I got my new 7.325 pushrods. Got the valvetrain assembled, valve covers back on the motor.
Just picked up my resurfaced flywheel. New Slave Cylinder from Autozone (Thanks Tongboy)
Waiting for my Braap Modified clutch line.
Going to remove the subframe next and weld reinforcement plates for the motor mounts.
Got my new walbro fuel pump, going to install it this week and finish the fuel lines.
Last edited by Kaane; 06-07-2011 at 12:26 PM.
thanks for the info, good luck with the rest of the build. I would like to check it out when its done, I am in south OC often... and sorry about kind of thread jackin'
Finally got the motor installed. Still waiting for the headers and driveshaft, but at least I can get the rest of the stuff done. I am very happy with the new age hotrods mounting kit. Everything lines up great, good clearances all around.
New ACT clutch and new chromoly flywheel being installed.
Ready to go in!, yes the motor mount bracket is in the wrong position! It was fixed before proceeding
New Age Hotrods motor mounts.
Last edited by Kaane; 06-20-2011 at 06:30 PM.
looking good!!!
Those mounts look nice. My car is finally running. I think. Just need to get it aligned, and I'll be able to drive it daily.
You're smart, and did the clutch before putting it in the car. I did it with the engine already in the car. Not fun, to say the least, haha.
Bring your car over! I'd love to get a ride in it
PM me your address and number. I can drop by on my way to get gas later. I don't have a passenger seat belt installed yet, but you can check out the car.
-Don
Last edited by Don Nguyen; 06-20-2011 at 08:05 PM.
Im in the area, can i come by and check it out? I have a turbo car that im very much considering putting a V8 in.
Sure, PM me.
Looks good! Is there room to mount the stock A/C compressor with the NAHR mounts?
yes, but not much clearance. Would have to pull the engine to remove the AC compressor.
I am about as far along as you are with the swap. Just wondering what you did for heater core hoses. I just bougt some line from autozone, but its the stuff off the roll. Where the line makes the 90ish degree bends comming out of the fire wall are you able to use universal hose? or should i look for prebent pieces?
I used the stock bends and used a coupler to connect the heater hose to it.
I went to the back of either Advanced or PepBoys and found prebent hoses. Ask them to let you go in the back to find a hose and they have no problems with it.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
I stole Tongboy's idea and used his part numbers to order prebent hose from rockauto.
I ordered 4 of them.
GATES 28472 Heater Hose $ 12.03 $ 0.00 2 $ 24.06
GATES 28480 Heater Hose $ 12.95 $ 0.00 2 $ 25.90
So much easier and you don't have to use any couplers.
Btw what kind of hoses did you guys use for the low pressure brake reservoir to the ABS pump?
Last edited by Kaane; 06-24-2011 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The low pres brake line must be something that can handle brake fluid otherwise it will eat it through very quickly. I found some locally that was intended for VW
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
I cut the hose in half and used hard line to connect them
i am unsure if the line i bought is up for the job. but i found trans cooler line. the salesmen at the hose supplier i use for hydraulic equipment said it is up to the task as it is very low pressure. Still unsure if the line is dot compatible
use low pressure power steering line or hydraulic fluid return hose, transmission cooler also works - basically anything oil approved low pressure and you'll be fine.
I still need to order the longer coolant hoses so I don't have the couplers in the lines unneccessarily
Got headers finally They look pretty nice! Should have them on the car this weekend.
Driveshaft arrived today
Last edited by Kaane; 07-01-2011 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
OK, this weekend I was going to install the headers and the engine for the final time. Run into some clearance issues.
The nahr headers are a total pain in the ass, they can only be installed with engine out of the car and even then i am having clearance issues with passenger header and oil pan.
I was hoping to use a GM ac compressor, but it's hitting the frame rail. I am most likely going to hammer it in a bit to create some space.
AC Clearance
Header hitting the oil pan.
I thought it looked a little tight for the A/C in there. I dont think there are any headers that will fit the drivers side and go in and out with the motor in. I am disapointed to see the oil pan clearence issue. I would have them take care of that if it was part of thier kit.
How are you guys putting your headers on?
I put the motor in then the headers then the steering rod/shaft...I thought that was normal...
I thought the nahr guys always called for the 318 compressor, which is of course smaller.
They do use the smaller compressor, but I did ask if I could use the GM one, he said there should be some space. Some = none.
It's not the end of the world, not the last time I will use a BFH on the car lol
Nahr headers go around the motor mount, they are impossible to install with engine installed.
Is it possible the one tube that hits the pan was installed improperly in the jig prior to them welding? I mean it doesn't even look remotely in the correct location.
Doug
'97 M3/4
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