Thank you OP and and everyone who contributed to this thread!
I just followed the guide and was able to replace the adjusters. I missed the part where a long T15 torx was needed, so had to stop to go get some (Harbor Freight came in handy with their T handles).
I got the first one done in about 5 hours, and the second in 1 hour. The only damage was a torn cover boot because I pulled on it too hard while disassembling.
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Congrats but you appear to have the '01 headlights and those are EASY in comparison to the '03 "no-bake" ones.
I have the Xenon on my '00 and have dissembled and reassembled them a few times successfully. Now I have the '03 (02/03 production) and the magical "no-bake" headlights. I want to (no...MUST) update the yellow AE's, replace the sandblasted plastic lenses (what WERE they thinking in R&D when these were designed?!?) and while I'm "in there", want to tackle the infamous adjusters before they go kaput (unless they're made of the more durable plastic). Why did they cheap out on using metal for these adjusters? The plastic I removed from the '00's was literally turning into plasti-sand! The more I read about the difficulties associated with cracking open the '03 light housings, the more concerned I become when thinking about attacking them...
I guess it shouldn't be as crazy as having to drop the exhaust twice to get to the driveshaft (missed something important...AMATEUR) or replace the front wheel hub/bearings 3x's due to cheaping out!
"Every great artist was once an amateur." --Ralph Waldo Emerson
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
Aren't headlights from 2001 on all "no-bake"? I didn't bake them open and had to go through the bulb openings. Long picks, long pliers really hepled me guide the adjusters into position. I got pretty good with using my fingers after this repair .
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No, the headlights that can't be baked are much later than 2001. It's sometime in 2003
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
I used this method and it worked great for me. You just have to be very patient and precise
I've done a couple no bake lights now, it's not that bad.
The PO put led angle eye bulbs in my car, which run hot as hell, I think it's wise to leave things stock to keep temps as low as possible in the headlight.
PCA HPDE Instructor
current:
2004 M3 convert 6sp man - low mileage beauty!
past:
1995 BMW M3 3.2
2004 M3 convert SMG
2003 BMW 540i6 Alpine White M sport (I want her back!)
Greetings,
This DIY method works fine. It is not bad at all. I just did both (halogen) headlight assemblies on my 2001 e39. Took me about 3 hours disassembly and all. My comments:
* Detaching the "tripod" that has the optical leads for the ring lights is crucial to make the job go smoothly. The little triangular frame that holds the optical leads is made of a thin metal, and bent easily as I was tapping the corners to pull out the barbed posts. But I bent it just as easily reinstalling it, almost back to what it was. I used an L shaped piece of hanger wire to pull the metal from below.
* I used a dentist mirror to check on how things are assembled, or for a good fit when assembling. I also used to verify there were no adjuster pieces left wedged around the adjusting screw, that didn't fall out - I had a couple of those.
* I used a 5" straight and 8" curved hemostats. Mostly the 8" one. Very handy to fetch broken pieces or position the adjusters correctly before sliding them over the adjusting screw.
* My halogen lights do not have an autoleveling unit. In its place there's just a fixed little rod with a ball end on the inside. The rod has some kind of collar with rubber ring that holds it in place. On both assemblies some pieces from the inside and outside broke. Driver side light broke more. Still has enough to stay in place. But that plastic has also deteriorated. I don't see that part on RealOEM, but it would be worth while replacing it along with the adjusters.
tjk
Dentists tools would be handy. I didn't find it necessary to bend or remove anything inside the headlight. It is crucial to figure out how to insert the new adjusters so you can maneuver them into position.
PCA HPDE Instructor
current:
2004 M3 convert 6sp man - low mileage beauty!
past:
1995 BMW M3 3.2
2004 M3 convert SMG
2003 BMW 540i6 Alpine White M sport (I want her back!)
Thanks to Ben and everyone else who has contributed in this thread. Just finished mine - baked the first one then did the second one via the method outlined by the OP.
Again do yourself a favor and have a long shank Torx screwdriver (T10 in my case) before you begin. I cut off some of the screwdriver handle to gain the required reach into the housing.
Thanks to everyone who built this repository of knowledge on the headlamp adjuster rebuilds/Replacements. I used this info over the weekend with great results. Note: If you think both of the adjusters are not broken, just wiggle them and pieces start to fall off everywhere. One of my assemblies looked great, until I did this. Oh well 10 + years old now, you have to realize all of them are broken.
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
Will this work for my 2002 hella angel eye halogen headlights? I'm not sure if they are broken. If when you move the cables, the headlight sockets move, it means they are broken? My electric adjustment and start-up-adjuster-self-check work fine. Thanks a lot.
Today I managed to complete this repair without taking apart the light. I bought a set used with broken adjusters and the person threw in a set of replacements which are black in colour. The key to this job that i found are ;
1. using a T15 screwdriver with a blade length of at least 100mm
2. getting all of the old adjuster out, especially the inner adjuster which I found always had some piece suck inside and would come out when turning the screw (I had to get a pick and smash/break it up)
3. looking at pictures of the way the adjusters are orientated inside (especially the inner one)
4. using the hole in the top of the light (covered by a black twist cover) to insert the inner adjuster and using your fingers of one hand in that hole and fingers of the other hand through the low beam projector to manoeuvre the adjuster into place.
Unfortunately you can't see much when doing the inner adjuster but if you remember how the orientation should be, checking everynow and then with a light, it will "home" in and you actually can tell. Then start winding that screw to get it to hold.
My new adjusters must have come from the UK because I saw a few ebay sellers there selling the black colour ones which like mine also came with a set of gears but I didn't use them. I found turning the new adjusters to be quite stiff in one of the directions but using the bolt method on the back of the black gear (not the 6mm hex on the white gear) I was able to turn them easier. I found turning the white gear, because it was so stiff, the gear would jump.
The first light took me a few hours a) because it was placing the outer adjuster wrongly and wondering why I could not get it to bite into the screw and b) I didn't have the right T15 screw driver. The 2nd light took me 1/2 hr.
Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out any bits of small plastic.
Quite pleased with the result and happy that I could do it without resorting to pulling the light apart.
Now I have to work out how to adjust the lights
Cheers, Michael
Perth, Western Australia
Last edited by Mi5; 03-20-2017 at 08:50 AM.
I once wondered like you if mine were broken and until I repaired a set of lights I realised when the adjusters ARE NOT BROKEN, the lights won't move move than a few mm, in fact they feel quite stiff. When the adjusters are broken you can move them, jiggle them around quite a lot. I think if you move the cables and the lights easily move they are broken.
One sure way to know is to remove the light (very easy just 4 bolts), remove the low beam rubber boot and look at the adjuster with a light.
I can tell if they're broken just by jiggling the bulbs by hand after opening the hood.
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
hi i cant see the pics in this thread can anyone help
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
Hey Aryana, I cant see the pictures in the original post either, this is what I am getting on my computer screen:
and this is what I am seeing on my phone (Android using chrome)
Been looking everywhere for a guide to replace the adjusters on my '03 525i.
See post #30 on page 2 of this thread for a PDF of post #1 (Ben's method) the pictures included.
This post with a few additions to Ben's method may be helpful
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post25099321
Regards
RDL
Since Photobucket needs to make money and all the good pics are gone, here's a fairly good video: https://youtu.be/JnRPg5o45Ik
When I did mine, I installed these metal tipped adjusters and was happy with the quality(listing is for 1 headlight): https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-5-S...97.m4902.l9144
And if you really need to change lenses: Part 1 https://youtu.be/j7c-XByp6KE , Part 2 https://youtu.be/9auN-Lhy20w
I'd also recommend getting lenses from ECS Tuning as if they arrive scratched, they'd be WAY easier to work with than an eBay'er, especially from Latavia. Even though the brand is HELIX, they are DJAUTO stamped in the lower inner corners. https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-54...adlights/Lens/
The rubber gasket/trim on top is fairly crappy and is held on with automotive double sided tape, so just buy new BMW ones! And YES, the Helix/DJAUTO leses do have all the tabs/hooks in the correct places for mounting the gaskets. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63126908405/ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63126908406/
Last edited by Cracker; 02-27-2018 at 07:55 AM.
6 spd swap, M5 diff, M5 steering box, B&G springs, G.A.S. Monoballs, M5 rear chasis braces, Eibach rear swaybar, EBC red brk pads, EBC slotted rear rotors,
StopTech frt rotors, StopTech brk hoses, aFe CAI, 4" MAF, M60 Manifold, N62 Throttle Body, DUDMD Stg 2+ w/ SAP & EWS Deletes,
muffler delete w/ Magnaflow tips, 18x8/9 style 69, BMW lip spoiler, Hella G4 projectors, & 1.4 bar coolant cap.
Anyone else getting sent to vigilink.com when trying to click the ECS Tuning links in the post above?
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
Question. I ordered the replacement adjusters recommended by a few folks on this forum.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/281334842156
This set came with replacement gears, as well. I can't find any sort of write-up about how to remove and replace the gears. Anyone know how it's done? If so, please share!
Thanks, as always...
--Peter
'03 540i-6
153k mi; bought April ‘07 w/38k mi
Silv/Blk, CWP, UUC SSK w/DSSR, M5 diff, JBR LW FW, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, Zionsville w/2-stage fan, coolant hoses, M60 intake manifold, motor-out overhaul (powder-coated VCs, TCGs, valley pan, coolant mani, head gaskets, heads refurb, all other gaskets, seals), Beisan vanos, PS pump & hoses, AC comp, fuel pump & filter, washer hoses, 88-degree thermo, DUDMD tune, Vibrant Racing muffler, Zeck CDV, Brembo solid-disc rotors w/ Textron pads & UUC SS brake lines, Dinan springs w/Koni Yellow shocks/struts, M5 front & rear sway bars, H&R 10mm spacers & studs front & rear, Pilot Sport A/S 3s, headlight adj repair, polished headlight lenses, 6k Umnitza Xenon & AE bulbs, new OEM M-Sport bumpers, gauge rings, permanent seat-twist repair to front seats, ZHP shift knob, M5 headliner kit (reinforced A-pillar clips), Schmiedmann pedals, MID & cluster pixel repair, Bavsound Stage 1 speaker upgrade & dedicated amp w/DSP subwoofers, retrofitted cupholder
tjk,
Both of these were destroyed on my headlights in the process. Like you, with the halogens, I don't have the auto-leveler that seems easy to remove. I've got them sitting safely in place, but I know they aren't sealed as well as they should be, and they aren't being as good a fulcrum as they should be. Did you ever find replacements for these? I wonder if I'd just have to find another set of broken headlights to scavenge for the part. Or maybe put in the _part_ for the auto-leveler, and just leave it disconnected. That's $80/side new, but maybe that part would be as good a static fulcrum as you need?
-Neil
Thanks for this!
I did come up with a fix that appears to be working well here. I cut some "triangles" out of a small sheet of scrap ABS I had. Those are big enough to cover the area the auto-leveling unit would occupy. I drilled holes for the 3 screws and one in the middle for the rod to stick through. Basically, I put some washers on the rod so that it stuck up higher from the back of the headlamp, and then I screwed the triangle down against those washers to hold those rods in place against the back of the headlight housing securely. It appears to be working well so far. But woah, all that plastic is so brittle. One of the screw holes for the triangle broke while I screwed into it.
-N
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