"Wow" is the first thing I want to say. Second. Is thanks to the OP. This is what these forums are all about.
i feel like the best way to say thanks is to add a few pointers which helped me:
1: Go out and get Craftman's "Professional T15" Series Screwdriver, it has a red and black handle. Don't even waste your time fiddling with ratchet extensions, ratchet screwdrivers, etc. The Craftman T15 is about 6" long and thin enough to fit everywhere needed (that goes double for the "high-beam" side).
2:Get yourself a nice "pick set", it will come in handy to retrieve and manipulate the old and new adjusters and holders in the headlamp cavity. I found the 90degree pick particularly valuable.
3:Get yourself one of those magnetized telescoping antennas with the mirror on the end. This will come in handy if u drop a screw. This is a great tool to have in any case as I have benefitted from having this over the years.
4:I found working with the headlamp upside-down useful while re-positioning the "high-beam" side adjuster and holder. This part of the install took up to 65% of my time spent on the project. I found the pre-assembled high-beam side adjuster and holder awkward and cumbersome while manipulating the two into proper position. Having said that, I think it's the only way to go :-(. I found myself doubting I could get everything into position many times, over many "frustration breaks", then I got lucky and the adjuster just landed into the proper orientation. Not to get too dramatic, but I literally said to myself "you got to be kidding me". After all the calculated manipulation with all types of picks, needle-nose pliers and various body positions it just dropped into position. I just started threading the external adjuster knob clockwise while shaking my head in disbelief at my dumb luck.
This DIY can be done with much patience and the reward is definitely worth it. I found myself in need of a new LH side headlamp replacing one broken in a "hit-n-run". I spent $350 on a foggy headlamp found in Detroit on "
car-part.com", restored using the 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 + polish method. Ironically. I purchased the new adjusters a couple years ago for my dearly departed damaged light and gave up on replacing it once I realized the "bake method" was not gonna work for my application. To add, I could not see myself hacking up my headlamps, or soldering, etc. No disrespect to those guys who have but it can be done, and so much cleaner this way.
Thanks to my Son and fiancée for the extra set of hands!
Last edited by playmakr88; 12-15-2013 at 07:58 AM. Reason: I forgot to add
/Users/ppierre/Documents/Beth_6.jpg
Awesome thread. Just tackled this on my 2001 headlights. I know I could have baked them, but figured I'd give this a shot first. The first headlight took a couple hours, and few menacing thoughts of wanting to put the headlight in the oven on 400 degrees till the damn thing melted, but after I learned how to position everything, the second headlight only took about 30 minutes. I agree as well, the skinnier your torx driver is the better.
You could have baked, and chose this method? You're crazy!
I had 1 original headlight that I baked and cleaned - super smooth and easy.
The other was newer (PO must have gotten into a fender bender). This method worked. But OMG that junk was hard as hell! I finally got it, though....with some busted knuckles.
Mmmm - battle scars. ...chicks dig scars.
2001 Aspen Silver 540i6 - 180k mi - 3" DUDMD Tune, aFe Intake, M60 Intake Manifold, Eibach Anti-Sway Bars (F&R), e60 SSK
I wanted to say thank you again to the OP. I just replaced the adjusters on my 2003 540i and this thread was a HUGE help. Did both sides in a total of 3 hours. It REALLY helps if you have tiny hands or have a girlfriend with tiny hands.
These pictures also helped a TON with the orientation of the adjusters. (Note: I only used this for orientation of the adjusters, I didn't have to cut my light housings.)
!Success! Thanks to the OP, and also to the other people who contributed tips.
I did need to move the AE fiber assembly out of the way. That was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I spent too many hours poking and prodding and debating breaking out the Dremel before popping it out and proceeding. With that out of the way it took me about 20 minutes to get the old adjuster out. And maybe 45 to get the new one in.
The low beam side was easy. Maybe 30 minutes each. Not counting the extra time I spent getting the lights/rubber off. I spent more time figuring out how to get the rubber gaskets off each light bulb housing. Afraid to break things.. If you pry the inner lip out it comes out very easy. The only headlight xenon bulb swap procedure I saw said to just "force it" I did that on the first one. Thankfully no rips. After pulling it out and seeing how the inner lip grabs, pulling it outward/prying the inside to the outside makes sense.
One tool I did not have was an 8 mm socket. The smallest in my set was 9 mm. I had to use the little wrench in the car tool kit to get the ballast/psu off. That wasn't bad except for the one recessed nut.
When re-assembling I found it much easier to plug in the HID cable before mounting the ballast. On the first light I installed, and then plugged in. I had to move the assembly a lot. I thought I almost broke the adjusters in doing that...
My headlight side adjuster was broken much further up. It made it a bit tough to get out.
20140622_121712.jpg
I briefly used one of my forceps/hemostat as a clamp to hold the AE/fiber assembly out of the way.
20140622_122002.jpg
And one shot of my being near success. Showing orientation and such.
20140622_121316.jpg
I put the high beam side adjuster in first, and eventually got it to thread in. Cranked it all the way back and then started at getting the socket in place. I got the socket on OK, but then didnt have enough clearance to get the adjuster ball into it. I dont know if there was clearance to clip it together first. I ended up clipping the socket to the ball of the adjuster first, and then rotated it onto the headlight inner frame.
Both headlights are ready to go back into the car. No cutting done. It is possible. I would guess overall time actually doing work was under 3 hours. But I easily spent 4-5 hours just looking and poking and pondering. Im so glad I didnt give up and resort to cutting/melting.
Thanks everyone so much.
Update: The first light -does- have a broken headlight adjuster. In the same spot. Diving into that one again. I hope I dont have too many problems with clearance with the other low beam side adjuster already clipped in place. D'oh.
Update2: Went smoothly. No issues with doing them out of the preferred order. Total time to do the first light, headlight side adjuster only took about 35 minutes. The only downside, there is a few specs of white plastic that found there way into the lens interior that I could not get out. And the level adjustment sensor arm is broken, and the arm connecting to the suspension is missing... I had my suspension re-done a month ago. May have broken then, but I dont know. I never checked or noticed its condition before hand. So far manually positioning the arm seems to effect the level adjustment from the motors. Im not sure how much it will shift from vibration. If it moves, i'll probably just lock it down with something.
I realize now that I think these were broken as long as I owned the car ( 7 years ) but the lights were always in the right position anyways. I noticed that when I changed a bulb years back, the HID bulb assembly would very freely wobble around. I didnt realize that was not normal. Now everything is nice and tight.
Last edited by agentrnge; 06-22-2014 at 05:48 PM.
Guys, I admit I'm too big a wimp to tackle this. Question, though -- what if I just remove my low-beam headlamps, and use my HIGH BEAMS all the time? The high beams are still pointed FINE on my 2003 530i - is there a reason this fix wouldn't work?
Thanks -- I've spent a lot of time considering this issue.
PS -- I don't even know if my adusters are broken -- I can't 'wiggle' either the left or right headlights at all, they both seem 'stuck' in the lower position -- I'm wondering if I've got an electrical current issue to the adjuster motors instead of broken adjusters!
Besides blinding everyone on the roads at night? No problem at all.
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
Let's get baked!
For anyone who has the Xenon headlights sealed with the bakable butyl rubber, here is a source for replacement headlight lenses in the USA. I purchased them from ebay and installed them on my 02/2002 530i. They are the Euro style that look identical to the ones on that German website.
I paid $100 with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121371451854
Fitment was great and they come with the rubber gasket that attaches to the top. Just wanna pass on my good experience to others since it took FOREVER to find these and I was really happy with the result.
Note: I have no affiliation with the ebay seller.
Last edited by balidawg; 08-11-2014 at 08:04 PM.
Need a DME or EGS update?
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1081716
Coding 530i after AT->MT Swap
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
Yes, I do. And sorry if this is out of place. I have the bakable Xenons and still read the entire thread. This DIY is amazing on a ship-in-a-bottle kind of level. No disrespect intended.
I haven't posted enough on this forum to have rights to create a new thread, and this is the closest one I could find that is still active to post a reply.
Need a DME or EGS update?
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1081716
Coding 530i after AT->MT Swap
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap
Perfect, I just completed one light, it took a couple of hours but the second light will be quicker.. Only mistake I had was sticking my finger in the light globe socket of the high beam and I left some smudgy finger prints in there, I tried to clean them with a soft cloth and rubbed off some of the chrome inner coating so be careful and keep your fingers out of there.
Thanks to all that have contributed to this!!!
I was attempting to do this on my 1/03 build lights. I got everything out on one side but this part is broken and I cannot find one anywhere.
Yeah I was worried about breaking mine when digging out the broken off ball from the adjuster rod. The adjusters are all over ebay, but not one socket. I searched around a bit for you with no luck.
Maybe epoxy the pieces back together?
Collect some from a forum member who has replaced their original headlights with aftermarket ones?
Do you have Xenons?
These might fit?
http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover-d...ips-1532-p.asp
Last edited by balidawg; 09-06-2014 at 10:37 PM.
Need a DME or EGS update?
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1081716
Coding 530i after AT->MT Swap
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap
I was able to get that part from my old pre-facelift lights sitting in my attic. All 4 adjusters have been replaced in my sealed 03 lights. Definitely a tedious process but doable. I think I could knock out the next set quite a bit faster.
Man what a PITA, i just did this on both headlights and my fingers hurts really bad. Well everything went good but my lights still pointing down, i replaced both level sensors(front and back) but i just cant get them to aim high, any help?!?
01 E39 525i - 172850km
02 E53 4.6is - 148000km
03 E46 M3 - 42853 Miles
09 Pajero - 149000km( the traveller)
Your electronic level adjuster might be setting things too low. My guess is that the sensor/level arm that is supposed to connect to the suspension might be broken. If thats the case you can manually position the sensor to different positions simulating different ride height with some trial and error. Then make manual adjustments on the headlights from there. My sensor lever is broken, this is what I had to do. There is a matched ride height sensor lever in the rear of the car.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...65&hg=31&fg=05
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...22&hg=33&fg=30
part #9 and #13
01 E39 525i - 172850km
02 E53 4.6is - 148000km
03 E46 M3 - 42853 Miles
09 Pajero - 149000km( the traveller)
You sure your D2S bulbs are seated properly in the housing? I will say that when I changed my adjusters, I had to set the lights at the highest position and I still feel it's a tad low. I really cannot stand the OEM E39 headlights.
I assume you realize that you must aim the lights manually after replacing the adjusters. The "automatic leveling" isn't really automatic. It does not sense vertical and adjust on its own. Rather, it maintains the vertical aim set by you (manually) when the car is loaded to pitch the nose up or down.
The HID/Xenon lights in my car have lots of aiming range: both side to side & up/down. When I bought my car the PO had fitted a wrong front sensor. Auto leveling was inop but I was still able to aim the headlights properly.
Some suggestions to check:
A) do the aim points move when you turn each of the four manual adjusters?
B) no prior front end damage so the headlight assemblies are tilted with respect to ground?
C) any chance ball joints on the vertical aim motors aren't properly seated in the reflectors?
D) the wiggle test on the reflectors moves the bulb connectors less than 1 cm?
E) as RVAE34 mentioned, bulbs are seated properly? (if not both aim and pattern are affected.)
F) are the sensors, as read by the scan tool, showing positions approximately mid range? (see attached images for my values with the car unloaded: new/correct front sensor & old/wrong sensor)
G) do the headlights do an up/down/up registration cycle? and in synch with each other? (either when the lights are first turned on or during the diagnostic routine with the scan tool)
H) the scan tool returns no error codes in either the LCM or the LWR? (LWR is the vertical aim module)
Regards
RDL
Just wanted to thank the original poster and all of those who posted tips in this thread; this was very helpful to me.
It took me about 3 hours to do my drivers side light, both adjusters were in pieces when i pulled them out. I messed around quite a while learning how it all came apart and went together. Knowing what i do now, i think i can probably do another light in under an hour. It took me a little while to figure out how to get the adjustment motor ball end out... but like i said, once you take the light apart its all very obvious.
Anyhow i found the high beam side actually slightly easier to get the adjuster into place (weird i know!)... i removed the high beam bulb and pulled the rubber boot up. I could stick my index finger where the boot normally seals to maneuver the adjuster into place. I also tapped the angel eye emitter out as was mentioned, though i admit getting this back in was kind of a pain. If i did another light id probably try and just leave that in place.
The low beam adjuster took some trial and error to get in place... and like all intricate things like this it eventually fell right into place with me thinking "Are you kidding me...".
As far as tools, this is all i used...
T-15 torx screw driver; the longer the shank length the better. I ran out and bought this Craftsman Professional with a 6" length, your typical one will only by 4" which i dont think its quite long enough. This worked great. It was on clearance also for $5!
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-p...4&blockType=G4
Long straight and right angle picks. The longer the better here also.
Long needle nose pliers with compound joint. This was mostly for pulling the broken pieces out.
Magnet. For when you inevitably drop one of the screws in the light .
Last edited by Techno Duck; 11-14-2014 at 10:27 AM.
Jon
'03 BMW E39 540i M-Sport : Black Sapphire Metallic, 6-speed. #1124 of 1190
'97 BMW E36 M3 : Arctic Silver - Sold July 2014
Bump - Any members offering this repair as a service? I'd be willing to pay a reasonable price and ship out my headlights. Love projects like this but I do not... have skinny fingers lol. Thanks
Ben - Do you know if there is anybody out there who will repair (both) headlights on my 2003 530i for a fee? My hands are too big... ;-D
This picture greatly helps get the orientation of the high beam adjuster in the correct position during re-installation.
E39_HL_Adjusters-2071.jpg
Last edited by Aryana; 11-07-2015 at 03:05 AM.
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
I am going to try this guy - my hands too big as well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-Head...-/300600181674
$208 to do this fix on eBay, hmmm...
If anyone is local to me and wants to pay me to do this, hit me up. I'll do it cheaper than the eBay dude.
Shipping back & forth seems like it would be a pain and opens me up to all kinds of liability.
Last edited by Aryana; 11-14-2015 at 10:28 AM.
2003 DINAN 5 | M54B30 | Titanium Gray Metallic | Stage 3 Engine Software | High Flow Throttle Body | Cold Air Intake | Free Flow Exhaust | Performance Automatic Transmission Software | Front Strut Brace | OE 18x9 BBS RS745 Style 42 on 265/35-18 MY BUILD THREAD: [Click]
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