DIY Timing Chain Guides-01 740 M62TU

[GSXRliterbikz]

As far as I know they all need to be torqued and angle tightened. My bolt didnt have any writing on it.

[trialbyfire38]

Would I see a check engine light?.......After 5 weeks I fanally have this guide job completed and all seems fine except I always had intermittant low end torque and still no change after all of this. I have the problem with the DSC/ABL and triagle lit up on the dash and plan to attempt a repair next week on that and I'm hoping they are related MY main question is ..... I'm pretty sure the chain jumped time when the tensioners went and I'm sure it's exact now since everything lined up perfectly but if it wasn't would I see a check engine light? or would 1 tooth off on the timing chain not trip an engine code?
Thank you in advance, trialbyfire38

[GSXRliterbikz]

It should throw a light if you were off. It might take some time though if its not off by much.

[blacksport]

Would I see a check engine light?.......After 5 weeks I fanally have this guide job completed and all seems fine except I always had intermittant low end torque and still no change after all of this. I have the problem with the DSC/ABL and triagle lit up on the dash and plan to attempt a repair next week on that and I'm hoping they are related MY main question is ..... I'm pretty sure the chain jumped time when the tensioners went and I'm sure it's exact now since everything lined up perfectly but if it wasn't would I see a check engine light? or would 1 tooth off on the timing chain not trip an engine code?
Thank you in advance, trialbyfire38

Did you use the special timing tools needed to set the time for the vanos ?

[trialbyfire38]

No I didnt set the VANOS timing, I didn't have enogh money to rent nor buy the tools, I was lucky to scrape up enough to do what I did. I figured if the VANOS was off I could always do it next payday. It still runs the same as it did before but without the clatter at startup and pulls like a truck when the RPMS come up which is better than before so i must be close? I know this isn't the correct way to do this but I had already been without transportation for 5 weeks and i had to get it runnung for many reasons.

[Tonkabot]

Hi All,
I have a 2000 740i, and the cyclone separator is bad and broken.
Do I have to pull the timing chain out to put in a new cyclone separator?
Hopefully it can be done without pulling the lower timing chain cover (and the Jesus bolt!), but I haven't seen anything saying how to do it - without doing the chain and guides and a whole lot more.

Thanks!

[GSXRliterbikz]

I have heard of it being attempted, but I havent seen it actually done

[TAM 11M]

personally I dont think its possible, there isn't enough clearence to get it out, you can just about get the top of it so getting it out will be a pain, also putting it back in.. got a little tube at the bottom which can be hard to get in with the new rubber, will be much tighter than getting it off..

you might aswell do everything while your down there, get it all done and call it a day

[E39 Prototype]

Wow this really makes me wanna just pull the motor and do everything haha.

I'm guessing headers will be easy to install, as well as the motor mounts hmmm

[Tonkabot]

Thanks Tam, I was afraid of that.
The PO of this car had bought a new oil separator, and took it apart trying to replace it. When he got down to it (upper timing cover off), he said F$$$ it, and put a rubber hose over the broken part of the separator.
Then he put it all back together (Without the cam timing tools I just bought) and when he started it the bolt in the end of the intake cam on bank 5-8 backed out, and he said 'it made bad sounds'. He thought it needed a motor and didn't want to put that into, so after it sat for a year, he gave it to me as a bonus for all the work I have done for him.
Yesterday I was able to determine that the intake valves are not bent, and I could either use my new tools to time the cams and start it, or I can replace the oil separator and then put it back together confident that that won't be a source of burning oil. The valve thing at the back of the intake looks brand new, along with the pipe from the cyclone sep. back to that valve. The intake had large amounts of oil in it. I have the intake off now.
What I can see of the timing chain guides doesn't look bad, but the car has 135k on it.

So I will do the chain guides when getting to the cyclone.

Question: Do you think I need new chains, or just a new main chain? Where should I look at the chains to determine how good or bad they are?

Thanks! You guys are a great help, and this motor is way more complicated than the chevy's I grew up with, or even the 95 M3 with the 3.2 OBD1 mix-n-match motor fun car.

[GSXRliterbikz]

Sounds like your going to have a good time "bonding" with your car. When I did mine I didnt replace the chain. Its pretty rare that they break and I had already spent over 1k on parts, so I didnt feel like spending another 150.00 for a part that was in perfectly good cond.
The secondary chains and their tensioners are not common wear items either, so it depends on how much you want to spend. I didnt touch either of those. There was no perceptible wear on them at 120k miles.

[TAM 11M]

I am the same, I didnt bother changing my chain and tensioners.. maybe I should have as the car does have 220k Miles on the clock, but the extra money wasn't what I had, and the car runs perfectly fine,

just depends on your wallet

[blacksport]

Hi All,
I have a 2000 740i, and the cyclone separator is bad and broken.
Do I have to pull the timing chain out to put in a new cyclone separator?
Hopefully it can be done without pulling the lower timing chain cover (and the Jesus bolt!), but I haven't seen anything saying how to do it - without doing the chain and guides and a whole lot more.

Thanks!

Oh come on guys, did my post not make any impact ??

YES, you can replace the cyclone separator WITHOUT removing the timing chain on a vanos motor. In the process of doing the research on the job, I spoke with about 4 other people who had also done this job. A member on another forum, who also did it, was very helpful to me.

None of the other people ran into the same problem I did and my self created timing problem could have easily been avoided.

Well, just read the post and you'll see what I'm talking about. I did a ton of research on this subject so will help anyone that needs it.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1704962

[Tonkabot]

Oh come on guys, did my post not make any impact ??

YES, you can replace the cyclone separator WITHOUT removing the timing chain on a vanos motor. In the process of doing the research on the job, I spoke with about 4 other people who had also done this job. A member on another forum, who also did it, was very helpful to me.

None of the other people ran into the same problem I did and my self created timing problem could have easily been avoided.

Well, just read the post and you'll see what I'm talking about. I did a ton of research on this subject so will help anyone that needs it.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1704962

Hi Blacksport,
I just read your thread on the Cyclone, and I see, yes it is possible to leave the chain on. What I was hoping was to leave the lower timing cover on, and I think that is pretty obviously not possible.

Since I already bought the cam timing tools because I need them anyway, it seems once I have that lower cover off that I might as well replace all the guides - like you ended up doing anyway.

Question about the cam timing tool: once you have them in place do are you then able to torque on the torx bolt at the front of the cam, or do you still need to hold the cam with a 27 mm wrench?

Another Question for GSXRliterbikz:
Up new the top of this fine thread in the pic where your going to pull the dipstick off next, you can see oil staining the passenger side front of the motor. (mine looks more or less exactly like that) Where is that oil leaking from? all from the broken rubber in the vent tube? or in the VANOS solenoid flange seals? Or somewhere else?

A goal of mine is to eliminate as many sources of oil leaks as I can here.

Thanks

[GSXRliterbikz]

Hi Blacksport,
I just read your thread on the Cyclone, and I see, yes it is possible to leave the chain on. What I was hoping was to leave the lower timing cover on, and I think that is pretty obviously not possible.

Since I already bought the cam timing tools because I need them anyway, it seems once I have that lower cover off that I might as well replace all the guides - like you ended up doing anyway.

Question about the cam timing tool: once you have them in place do are you then able to torque on the torx bolt at the front of the cam, or do you still need to hold the cam with a 27 mm wrench?

Another Question for GSXRliterbikz:
Up new the top of this fine thread in the pic where your going to pull the dipstick off next, you can see oil staining the passenger side front of the motor. (mine looks more or less exactly like that) Where is that oil leaking from? all from the broken rubber in the vent tube? or in the VANOS solenoid flange seals? Or somewhere else?

A goal of mine is to eliminate as many sources of oil leaks as I can here.

Thanks

I had oil leaking from EVERYTHING. Vanos solenoids, upper timing covers, front main seal, throttle body, coolant tubes, OSV pipe, etc...

I just replaced everything. If I took a seal off I replaced it. The majority of oil you see in that pic is from the upper timing covers and vanos seals.

[blacksport]

Hi Blacksport,
I just read your thread on the Cyclone, and I see, yes it is possible to leave the chain on. What I was hoping was to leave the lower timing cover on, and I think that is pretty obviously not possible.

Since I already bought the cam timing tools because I need them anyway, it seems once I have that lower cover off that I might as well replace all the guides - like you ended up doing anyway.

Question about the cam timing tool: once you have them in place do are you then able to torque on the torx bolt at the front of the cam, or do you still need to hold the cam with a 27 mm wrench?

Another Question for GSXRliterbikz:
Up new the top of this fine thread in the pic where your going to pull the dipstick off next, you can see oil staining the passenger side front of the motor. (mine looks more or less exactly like that) Where is that oil leaking from? all from the broken rubber in the vent tube? or in the VANOS solenoid flange seals? Or somewhere else?

A goal of mine is to eliminate as many sources of oil leaks as I can here.

Thanks

Well, my bad. I should have paid attention to what I was reading. No, you can't replace that cyclone oil sep with the lower timing cover on. If you had a non vanos car, you could do it because they use a different design oil sep.

YES ! You'll still need to counter hold that cam with the shaved down 27mm wrench as the cam holders just hold the cams still, they dont lock them down securely. The the cams will easily jump out of the cam holders if you go to put some torque on the cam sprocket bolt.

I had a freakin time getting the passenger side exhaust cam bolt out. Use a minimum of a 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2 drive T55 torx bit. I made the mistake of initially using a 3/8" drive torx bit that was attached to my 1/2 drive breaker bar via a 1/2 drive to 3/8 drive step down adapter.

The adapter just twisted right off so go with 1/2 drive everything. After twisting my adapter off, I drug out my 600lb torque Snap On 1/2 drive impact gun and still couldnt get that bolt out. Its a LEFT HAND threaded bolt so dont forget that part.

The next day I went back out to the car and it finally broke it loose when I tried my breaker bar with a new 1/2 dr torx bit and countering it with the 27mm wrench. The other cam bolts came out easier

[Tonkabot]

Okay, I am ordering my parts today (from my local guy http://www.blunttech.com/ who will beat autohausaz's prices).

Should I be getting a new waterpump while I am at it? It looks like GSXRliterbikz did not put a new one on.

Does the head gasket kit include waterpump gaskets? I can see a lot there, including the VANOS flange seals, I don't know what all is in it.

[jdrixx]

I replaced the tensioner and the tapping got quoted. Then it starts tapping again,it's noisy but goes away when you gas it, and it runs strong, what could be next? Help thanks

[E39 Prototype]

I replaced the tensioner and the tapping got quoted. Then it starts tapping again,it's noisy but goes away when you gas it, and it runs strong, what could be next? Help thanks

add a supercharger noise

[jpgilroy]

Just finished this job on my 1998 E38 and would like to thank all who provided the wonderful useful pics and written help.

If I may add some tips I picked up along the way.........

1) Crankshaft Bolt.... I purchased the crank balancer holder it was $80 delivered. That combined with a 25" breaker bar with a 2' pipe eased the bolt off without a problem.

2) as I have a non-vanos motor I opted to not remove any of the chains. The issue of removing the center guide and the possibility of not being able to get to the lower right bolt was no issue for removal or instalation of the new guide.

3) Being very careful and multiple markings on the chains sprockets insure that there are no timing issues. Take it slow and the chain will stay where it should. remember to cable tie the slack out of the chain so that the chain does not jump.

4) A far as the wear on the guides the center U shaped guide was totally devoid of the plastic guide material, as was the drivers side guide. The adjusting guide on the passenger side was intact on the guide however split in the middle. Do not skip the dropping of the lower oil pan to scoop out the plastic that will settle in it.

5) The only unexpected issue was the $325 for a new oil filter canister. The plastic stand in the middle broke apart just like the guides. It unscrews from the housing, but guess what, that piece is not available as a separate part.

6) Prior to the rap rap noise associated with this issue the motor started throwing may misfire codes and running great one day and horrible the next. Once again I thank this forum and those writing about these issues which gave me the push to DIY......

7) With the new guides in place the Motor fired right up light ticking for a bit and after the engine reached operating temp all quite. Runs strong, quiet and idles like it did 10 years ago. Have 500 miles on since completion. Go slow and don't forget to properly torque everything. http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm

[purplecty]

How many miles on ur 98?

[Route 66]

I was wondering that also.

[burninator]

Any other info on those knock sensor torque specs? I removed mine from my new engine when I did the valley pan, and reinstalled without much thought. It's still out and the intake is off so it wouldn't be a big deal to retorque them.

[GSXRliterbikz]

Any other info on those knock sensor torque specs? I removed mine from my new engine when I did the valley pan, and reinstalled without much thought. It's still out and the intake is off so it wouldn't be a big deal to retorque them.

I dont. I was told to not touch them if they were not broken.
There is a tq spec. PDF in the DIY sub forum. Check there.

[BRAD123]

Fine job on the refresh...how did the oil pan gasket to the lower timing cover hold up? Any leaks? I am in the middle of doing this job and if i don't have to drop the oil pan that would be great!