This may come off as a stupid question, but i can't seem to find anything to get the rear bolts out of my front seat in my 89 sedan. I know they're 17mm, but i can't seem to find the tool to get them out.
Any feed back to what you have used before would be greatly appreciated.
Slide the seat as forward as possible, and use a ratchet with a 17mm socket.
Thats how i did the front, but i can't get it to fit on the back because the ratchet and socket don't fit under the seat. Possible im not getting the seat all the way forward? I was thinking an offset 17mm wrench would possibley work.
Press down on the lever that you normally pull up to adjust the tilt of the seat back, and lift the seat up from the rear. If you're doing it right, the seat will move up and forward. That should give you the clearance to get at the rear bolts.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
^^what he said,
I also had a socket but the walls of the socket were too thick to fit in between the rail and nut.
I just use a 17mm box end wrench.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Thanks for all the help guys..
Got them out today with the combonation of a flathead and 17mm boxed wrench.
Time to buy some sport seats.
OH YEAH, IF YOUR RICH
Or you could just replace all the hydraulic pistons that have stopped working. The clue being you couldn't get the seat to work well enough to get the rear bolts out. I replaced all the hydraulics on both seats for under $100. Now if you can get electric seats from a newer model that fit for under 100 bucks great. But my seats are all leather and don't have a cut or a tear in them. And now all the buttons to raise and lower etc work. I bet yours do to if you don't sit in them. But we weigh more than 20-25 year old hydraulic rams can push against. If you can compress them with your hands, they are worthless. New ones take two guys, levers, long pry bars, and sneaky craftyness to get into place. But once it is done should last longer than most of us will.
Well they aren't even power seats, just crappy torn comfort seats. I found almost $3 in change in the seat rail once it was out (more than likely why it wouldn't move) But i've got my eye on some grey sport seats and door cards for $300 + shipping. The interoir was so nasty it isnt even worth saving anything. Plus i want to switch from tan since my dad's car has tan... I'd love to find some cardinal sports seats and do black door cards etc. But on my budget doubt that'll happen
How did you get the seat to move forward or raise?? I have the same issue and stock. I just need 1 inch more to get to the bolts.
Like was posted above, push the seat back adjusting lever down which will allow the seat bottom to move up and forward. If it's a coupe put the seat back forward masking froviding acces# to the rear seat.
and when oundecidemto replace the gas struts that control the adjustments send me a PM. I have an order being mad3mi. Europe now and should have them in hand before Xmas
87 Zinno Cabrio 98k Barn Find. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=268987
87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner
Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info
New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ot-Seat-Shocks
@Jeffnhiscars, Thank you very much! Yes, that did it!
Anyone know how to adjust the brackets/runners on the bottom of the seats? One side runner doesn't align with the bolt to screw the seat back in, it needs to be moved up 2 inches.
That's okay, I got it! Thank you!
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