BMW E36 MFSW retrofit pictoral DIY

[Joylove]

I believe Bluetooth may be on the cards for OpenOBC, with wireless diagnostics over SPP, and wireless telephony to make use of the larger display.

It's certainly not on the core PCB though.

It could then interface to the MFL via the iBus interface for answer/hangup, as well as using the OBC buttons naturally.

[dancerst]

Hey, guys! Awesome news!

I was looking for E39 cruise control modules with «08-04»
and I found 3 of them!
Also I have 07-04 module+MFL Module

[dancerst]

For those who want to upgrade E36 with Multi-Function Steering Wheel:
I have only 2 sets left for sale

1) E39 Cruise Control Module HW08 SW04
2) E39 Cruise Control Module HW07 SW04 + MFL Module

[dancerst]

[dancerst]

That's quite cool dancerst!! Wouldn't it be possible to use one of the other empty bulb slots, for those of us having ASC fitted?

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

I think it is possible, but it will be much harder to make. You’ll need something like laser cutting to make a perfect symbol.

[MParallel]

That's quite cool dancerst!! Wouldn't it be possible to use one of the other empty bulb slots, for those of us having ASC fitted?

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

I've already seen that done. Try to find the pics of it.

I think it is possible, but it will be much harder to make. You’ll need something like laser cutting to make a perfect symbol.

Why would it be? You could use the same method as you did, then cut it out from the cluster and replace with the one you cut out of another unit, like you did.

I'm surprised though you needed a color filter, as all the symbols have their own color background? At least all the ones in my cluster at the bottom do.

The blue pin 12, is that the blue pin 12 from the CC module, or the on on the back of the cluster?

Am I correct in thinking that what I see is some sort of metallic paint you use to make a connection from the light to the PCB?

[dancerst]

Why would it be? You could use the same method as you did, then cut it out from the cluster and replace with the one you cut out of another unit, like you did.

If you want to keep the «original» look, you need a laser cutting, otherway you’ll see a lines where you made a cut to insert a new symbol.

I'm surprised though you needed a color filter, as all the symbols have their own color background? At least all the ones in my cluster at the bottom do.

As you may see at the 3-rd and 4-th pictures all symbols are white... This is because E38 cluster uses colored LED’s instead of bulbs on E36. And that’s why you need a color filter.

The blue pin 12, is that the blue pin 12 from the CC module, or the on on the back of the cluster?

This is pin of instrument cluster (blue connector)

Am I correct in thinking that what I see is some sort of metallic paint you use to make a connection from the light to the PCB?

Can you point on photo you thinking about?



P.S. It is NOT necessary to use a LED, you can use a normal bulb, but the light will be not so bright.

[MParallel]

If you want to keep the «original» look, you need a laser cutting, otherway you’ll see a lines where you made a cut to insert a new symbol.

As you may see at the 3-rd and 4-th pictures all symbols are white... This is because E38 cluster uses colored LED’s instead of bulbs on E36. And that’s why you need a color filter.

This is pin of instrument cluster (blue connector)

Can you point on photo you thinking about?


P.S. It is NOT necessary to use a LED, you can use a normal bulb, but the light will be not so bright.

Isn't there a little space in the back to hide the cut line? Like in the same way as you don't see your cutout.

Ha the E38 uses colored leds. Never knew that. I guess then it would be more easy to get the symbol out of an old E34/E32 cluster.

The paint I was talking about is in the same pics as where it says +12v and -12v pin12 blue connector. On the left side of the bulb you see all the gray material. I thought maybe if you don't have ASC+T and thus no light there, that there also isn't any metal on the PCB to get the current to the light. I thought the paint connected the + terminal of the bulb to the PCB.

If not, where does the light the +12v from? Or are all light always getting +12v and need to be grounded to light up?

[dancerst]

Isn't there a little space in the back to hide the cut line? Like in the same way as you don't see your cutout.

You can’t hide the cut lines, cause originaly it’s a one piece.

The paint I was talking about is in the same pics as where it says +12v and -12v pin12 blue connector. On the left side of the bulb you see all the gray material. I thought maybe if you don't have ASC+T and thus no light there, that there also isn't any metal on the PCB to get the current to the light. I thought the paint connected the + terminal of the bulb to the PCB.

This is not paint, it’s a nail polish I marked one side to remember where the + and -

Or are all light always getting +12v and need to be grounded to light up?

Correct.

[MParallel]

Hello everyone!

I just read carefully joylove's DIY and also vlakcy's topic about the MFSW on E36.My steering wheel is like Joy's but i'm only interested for the radio controls.I'm confusing about the e39 cc and E39 mf module.Should i buy also these?

Any help would be greateful!

George

For the radio you don't need cc module, and MF module is only needed for old steering wheels.

[MParallel]

So i don't need any module,just the steering wheel buttons plus the aftermarket remote controller and the E39 slip ring right?

That should be fine, although I don't know what model steering wheel you have. So can't say if you need the MF module or not.

[Skyline19GR]

Mparallel:Firstly thank you so much for your fast answer's.
My car is a 12/97 model,euro spec and my steering wheel is like joy's and your's

[MParallel]

In that case you're just fine.

[Mimo]

Hi guys,

I successfully finished this DIY today. everything works fine, without problem.
used parts:
cruise control from E39 523i 7/98 - module version HW8 SW4 - without MF module, without CC dash swith ( it is switched by MF button)
I had M sports steering wheel
MF switches:
61 31 2 489 879 (RADIO)
61 31 2 695 126 (CRUISE CONTROL - with I/O button)

This page also helps me, so thanks a lot

[dancerst]

I’m glad my info about 08-04 module helps people to make theirs E36 more electrically loaded cars )))))

P.S. I sold the last one 08-04 today (((

[MParallel]

....MF switches:
61 31 2 489 879 (RADIO)
61 31 2 695 126 (CRUISE CONTROL - with I/O button)

This page also helps me, so thanks a lot

Can you please tell me, the CC buttons, does it also have the R/T switch on it? Or the version without it?

I ordered 61 31 2 695 128 2.5 years ago which is listed as radio/telephone/speed control. Yours ending with 126 only shows up as speed control and is $5 cheaper.

I'm sure 61 31 2 695 128 should have an I/O switch, but it only has a 0. I know others with 61 31 2 695 128 who do have the I/O which makes it more crazy. Did they fit the wrong button symbol?

Well according Dancerst, I should be fine as even is it is O the HW8/4 should be able to turn it on and off without a dash switch. It still bothers me not having the I/O switch as I bought it new and wasn't cheap.

[dancerst]

Well according Dancerst, I should be fine as even is it is O the HW8/4 should be able to turn it on and off without a dash switch. It still bothers me not having the I/O switch as I bought it new and wasn't cheap.

You’ll be fine ))) I checked those buttons on my car with 08-04 module.
but yes, it’s sad to buy a NEW buttons and do not have I/0 symbols

[Mimo]

Can you please tell me, the CC buttons, does it also have the R/T switch on it? Or the version without it?
I ordered 61 31 2 695 128 2.5 years ago which is listed as radio/telephone/speed control. Yours ending with 126 only shows up as speed control and is $5 cheaper.

Hi, my buttons are without R/T switch. I don´t have carphone, so I don´t need this function (right now, you see ) .

I'm sure 61 31 2 695 128 should have an I/O switch, but it only has a 0. I know others with 61 31 2 695 128 who do have the I/O which makes it more crazy. Did they fit the wrong button symbol?

Well according Dancerst, I should be fine as even is it is O the HW8/4 should be able to turn it on and off without a dash switch. It still bothers me not having the I/O switch as I bought it new and wasn't cheap.

I totally understand your problem :/ If it will happen to me I should kill somebody only if it is one stupid button or, one stupid symbol
I know there are few types of switches, but why they use same part nr. . donno. for example, I think my switches came from later production- with wheel with 2 stage airbag. because I had 2 wirings - one for connection left (radio) switch with right (CC) switch and one wiring is for connecting right (CC) switch with sheel slip ring. see example picture:



but on E36 and sooner E39 we have slip ring which already included second wiring, so I only connect it to right switch. see example pic:



another example, see this DIY:
http://bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/Steer...heelRepair.htm
He mention that he used
P/N 61-31-2-695-128
P/N 61-31-2-490-233

you see, one button on left side looks different, but on right side he has I/O.. and with R/T

I think it is not problem to get used switches which looks like you want but if you wanted new :/ as I see it´s hard to get exact what you want

PS: sorry for bad English :/ if you don´t understand, just ask

[bvli]

Hi..

Finished this yesterday.

If you don't want to solder wires in your car, there's a connector named X322 just above the drivers foot well (on LHD cars). Looks like this:
X322.JPG

And is located around here:
X322-position.JPG

If you can find a spare connector somewhere it's quite easy to create a wiring loom and make this mod "plug'n'play".
X322-Loom-for MFSW.jpeg

Just solder the wires together and add the wires from/to the MFSW (GE and VI/WS, I-bus and power, respectively). You can do this at your desk and when going to the car, doing the retrofit, all you have to do is to disconnect the existing X322 in your car, and connect each end of it to the wiring loom you've made. And then connect the pins into the connector coming from the slip ring.

While I was at it, I installed this http://www.lowcostcaraudio.co.uk/lcca/mia/d/connects2+ctppar007+bmw+parrot+bluetooth+steering+ wheel+adapter/pid/7642231. It works - but as far as I've tested it, it doesn't act stable. I don't know if it's because the Ibus goes to sleep or what ever, but before I've analysed what happens on the bus (and why) I'll not recommend it.


Thanks to Joylove for the initial write up - and thanks to Dancerst for all information about the cruise control. (and the module)

[Skyline19GR]

Another Question.
What's the difference between this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...:X:AAQ:GB:1123
and this

???

[Joylove]

The PAC is programmable/learning. the Connects2 is already programmed.

[Skyline19GR]

So should i prefer the first one?
I want just simple things,change the volume and the songs

[kosta]

+1 for my installer to look at

[Joylove]

So should i prefer the first one?
I want just simple things,change the volume and the songs

Then you should prefer the second one. Note the phone buttons do not work with the Alpine gear, but that's not a problem for you.

[Skyline19GR]

Then you should prefer the second one. Note the phone buttons do not work with the Alpine gear, but that's not a problem for you.

Im little confused.Sorry for the question-bombing Joy but i'm little noob.Yeah i know about the phone issues but i dont use it either.

You said Pac is programmable/learning and the other is already programmed.
Can you please explain why should i prefer the Pac?And how could i programmed?

thank you for answering my question's joy