2000 e39 wont start ews problem

[tautobahn]

I have a 2000 e39 that wont start wont crank battery is fine starter can be manualy jumped I am getting 12 volts to ews when in crank position all three power suplies to ews ok. the key works the door locks manualy and via radio. had some fault in all mods when first checked cleared faults and cranked(didn't crank) and fault128 EWS-Transmission -Parity
apears in dme no faults in trans and no faults in ews any Ideas fuel pump runs also

[easymoney]

OMG! What did you say the problem is?

[easymoney]

OMG! What did you say the problem is?

[ganesht]

if your getting any ews faults then it is reading the key correctly but 128 from the dme would mean your getting an invalid signal from the ews.

what are you using to diag the problem? a gt1? have you tried to re-align the dme-ews?

what prompted this fault, did the battery die...?

[tautobahn]

I am using Barvarian Technic. As far as I knowThe battery has not died. It acted funny three or four time had trouble stating now wont start at all. Do you need the GT1 to re allign or is there some alternate way of doing so. I have cleared the fault several times out of the DME but it returns at the first attempt to Crank.

[Mark@EAC]

INPA is capable of EWS alignment as well as autologic.

[rdl]

Tautobahn
I have some trouble following your description. Some punctuation would help.
However, if I understand your first post, you are saying:
1 battery is fine
2 car can be jump started
These two statements don't agree. Which is it?
Note that a fully charged battery will show 12.5 to 12.7 volts at rest, i.e. engine off, surface charge removed & any current draw less than ~0.1 Amp. The exact value depends on ambient/battery temperature and battery type, e.g. regular, no maintenance, AGM, etc. If yours measures 12.0 volts it is significantly discharged. Also, a bad battery may register 12.5 volts at rest but be unable to deliver the ~200 amps required by the starter. A battery load tester will tell you if this is so.

The EWS code is puzzling. If the fault is active (not simply pending) and is one that prevents a start, even a jump start attempt would fail to start the car. The EWS would not trigger the starter solenoid with result that starter motor would not run to turn the engine.

Also, do you know the build date for your car? WDS (BMW's wiring diagrams) has one set for up to 9/98, another set for after. Your MY '99 could be either side of the break.

Anyway, based on my understanding of the symptoms, for a first step I'd recommend ensuring the battery is fully charged and then load tested.

Regards
RDL

[tautobahn]

no, sorry for punctuation. can be jumped at Solinoid on starter(Ie starter is fine for cranking not starting, not start singal to starteror out of EWS) not a charging battery starting problem. as far as build date and model year it a 2000 with 01/00 for production. definatly a EWS issue

[rdl]

no, sorry for punctuation. can be jumped at Solinoid on starter(Ie starter is fine for cranking not starting, not start singal to starteror out of EWS) not a charging battery starting problem. as far as build date and model year it a 2000 with 01/00 for production. definatly a EWS issue

try this link

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&highlight=ews

Regards
RDL

[JFlow21]

Hey everyone,

I'm having the same problem. I've had to leave my car at work a bunch of times because of this. This is exactly what is happening to me. I feel like I've tried everything but I'm so lost as to why I can't identify what the problem is.

1. When I try to start the car, absolutely no crank, engine doesn't turn over but all dash lights radio, heat comes on.
2. I was told when buying the car that the if that ever were to happen to unplud the EWS and plug it back in and car would start (That used to work)
3. Battery had died at one point and bought new one from Canadian Tire (I'm in Canada) with a high rate of Cold Cranking Amps. I have a Bluetooth FM Transmitter for my iphone that when I plug it in reads the voltage of my car, and it'll typically read about 12.0 but when supposed to it'll still start when it decides to start
4. Even when unplugging EWS about 100 times (I'm not joking here) I'll try and boost it and it still won't start.
5. I went by a local mechanic and he gave a vague "Maybe it's your key" answer. I've tried a new battery in my key and still no start.
6. I'm wondering if it's something physical with my starter or my key. I don't want to necessarily sink a bunch of money in the wrong direction. I'd rather isolate the problem and then sink the money that way.

Guys I've searched so many forums and still am unsure why this keeps happening to me. Please help I beg of all of you! haha Thanks again in advance for any/all advice I do really appreciate it.

[condrix]

Hi,
I just bought my E46 330d and have a problem with the diamond key. Open the doors, turn on electricity but sometimes doesn't start the engine (no crank at all). The garage and wallet keys do the job every time.
When I try to start with the diamond key shortly after the engine was started with the garage/wallet keys it works.
Technician said maybe the transponder is broken in the diamond key. Hard to believe but no clue what's wrong.

INPA says:
7669 Electronic car immobilisation system (EWS)

Error frequency: 4
Logistic counter: 40

Error Presents
Sporadic error
EWS Timeout elapsed

Any suggestion?

Cheers,
Joe

[Qsilver7]

Hi,
I just bought my E46 330d and have a problem with the diamond key. Open the doors, turn on electricity but sometimes doesn't start the engine (no crank at all). The garage and wallet keys do the job every time.

When I try to start with the diamond key shortly after the engine was started with the garage/wallet keys...it works.
Technician said maybe the transponder is broken in the diamond key. Hard to believe but no clue what's wrong.

Just to clear up this seemingly odd behavior...it's actually not odd. BMW designed the EWS system to have a 10 second "moritorium" on key recognition after just recognizing a compatible key. So if you have a working key and engage the ignition, then remove that key...you can insert a usually NON-WORKING key into the ignition and it will start the vehicle if done within this 10 second "EWS key recognition" black-out time frame.

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