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Thread: '88 Cabrio with cracked head

  1. #1
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    '88 Cabrio with cracked head

    Hello! I'm usually lurking over in the E39 forum, but ran across this little gem in my craigslist lurking.

    http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/2203176269.html

    Sadly, it is not as nice looking as it is in the photos - the interior is rough, all the leather is shot, and it absolutely filthy. I figure I can take care of that sort of stuff pretty easily. (cleaning - free, new leather - $650)

    The cracked head dumped a lot of coolant into the bottom end as the guy was driving the car. He said he didn't drive far, just enough to pull in to the nearest Midas. Any potential issues that would result in the need for a complete new engine, not just a head?

    If it's just the head, I can take care of installing a new one. I understand that it's not super complicated, but I'll need to pick up a Bentley to make sure I have a guide to the project. I've done headgaskets on Fiats and VW's but never on an M20.

    I'm thinking $1500 is a bit on the high side for this car. I thought about an $800 offer, maybe get it for $1000. Invest another $2000 and have a nice car for the wifey for the summer. Does that seem reasonable and prudent?

    Unfortunately my wife has seen this thing and won't let it go. So if you guys say run like the wind, I will be forced to heed your sage advice.

  2. #2
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    $1500 is high. The good thing its got going for it is the top if it in fact is in good shape. It's the most expensive single item on the car. I just picked up an '89 325iC with a fairly new (vinyl) interior and a good running M20 for $1000. Car needs paint and it's an automatic. I put a new top on it, did the timing belt and water pump and have done new suspension (shocks, struts, control arms, bushings, etc.) and 4 tires.

    1989 635CSi Alpinewieß
    1989 325iC Alpineweiß II
    1985 745i Cosmosblau / Pacificblau cloth
    1995 525iT S50 / 5 speed Alpineweiß III
    1985 635i Cosmosblau
    1998.5 M3 Technoviolent
    1990 325iC
    1999 528i

  3. #3
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    $1500 is high. The good thing its got going for it is the top if it in fact is in good shape. It's the most expensive single item on the car. I just picked up an '89 325iC with a fairly new (vinyl) interior and a good running M20 for $1000. Car needs paint and it's an automatic. I put a new top on it, did the timing belt and water pump and have done new suspension (shocks, struts, control arms, bushings, etc.) and 4 tires.

    1989 635CSi Alpinewieß
    1989 325iC Alpineweiß II
    1985 745i Cosmosblau / Pacificblau cloth
    1995 525iT S50 / 5 speed Alpineweiß III
    1985 635i Cosmosblau
    1998.5 M3 Technoviolent
    1990 325iC
    1999 528i

  4. #4
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    $1500 is high. The good thing its got going for it is the top if it in fact is in good shape. It's the most expensive single item on the car. I just picked up an '89 325iC with a fairly new (vinyl) interior and a good running M20 for $1000. Car needs paint and it's an automatic. I put a new top on it, did the timing belt and water pump and have done new suspension (shocks, struts, control arms, bushings, etc.) and 4 tires.

    1989 635CSi Alpinewieß
    1989 325iC Alpineweiß II
    1985 745i Cosmosblau / Pacificblau cloth
    1995 525iT S50 / 5 speed Alpineweiß III
    1985 635i Cosmosblau
    1998.5 M3 Technoviolent
    1990 325iC
    1999 528i

  5. #5
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    That's a $700 car in my opinion.

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    If the body and the top is nice it is still a $900.00 car. Sounds like he is wanting too much.

  7. #7
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    richardodn is offline Old Guy BMW CCA Member
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    As for the engine, you'd be better off doing a swap (stock or other) instead of hoping and wondering if there was no bottom end bearing damage.
    "Howdy, Folks!"

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  8. #8
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    What part of that car is a gem?


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ltflint View Post
    $1500 is high. The good thing its got going for it is the top if it in fact is in good shape. It's the most expensive single item on the car. I just picked up an '89 325iC with a fairly new (vinyl) interior and a good running M20 for $1000. Car needs paint and it's an automatic. I put a new top on it, did the timing belt and water pump and have done new suspension (shocks, struts, control arms, bushings, etc.) and 4 tires.
    Sounds like a nice price on that one. The top on this car looks new, and the body is very nice - South Carolina car, no rust at all, but the clear coat is a little peely in a couple spots. Other than that it looks good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle B View Post
    That's a $700 car in my opinion.
    Quote Originally Posted by woodwowe View Post
    If the body and the top is nice it is still a $900.00 car. Sounds like he is wanting too much.
    Yeah my gut told me the same thing. I could start with a lower offer. I guess I was hoping I could end up at $800.

    Quote Originally Posted by richardodn View Post
    As for the engine, you'd be better off doing a swap (stock or other) instead of hoping and wondering if there was no bottom end bearing damage.
    I was afraid of that. Although this kind of project sounds like fun, I don't know that I'm up to it...
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...light=m50+swap

    Quote Originally Posted by VacMan View Post
    What part of that car is a gem?
    I'm going to have to go with...nothing....Well actually, like I said the body is very nice. No rust at all, which is huge up here in the salt belt.

    Thanks for the insight guys. I'll let you know what we do. The only other issue I have to consider is can we have five cars on our 80' x 120' lot...

  10. #10
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    Hello to the e30 family!

    Quote Originally Posted by woodwowe View Post
    If the body and the top is nice it is still a $900.00 car. Sounds like he is wanting too much.
    Well woodwowe, it does have a nice (new) top, and NO rust at all. The wife just would not let it go - she has wanted a little blue convertible now for quite a while. Maybe this will keep her out of my fiver .

    After sitting on it a few months, we bought it for $900. I've decided to replace the entire engine since the crankcase is filled with white cream. I imagine there will be bearing damage, perhaps just pitting or something from sitting in this goo. Working on sourcing an engine.

    I have a line on a couple engines up here in New England, thanks to some threads I've posted on this forum. I hope to find something decent that doesn't burn any oil. Not sure if that's a problem on these M20's or not. The motors I've found have 160k, 168k, and 180k. The 180k is only 200 but the history is unknown.

    Anyway, enough with the chit chat - on with the photos:


    Convertible top is brandy new. Just needs to be properly fitted at the back of the rear quarter windows.

    Look at those fart cans! Sorry for the crappy pix - camera was on low setting and I took them in the canyon I call my driveway....


    Passenger seat leather is on the edge of saveable.


    Driver's seat leather is shawt!

    Rear diving board is tweaked - PO must have backed into something. Bent the sheetmetal in the trunk a bit, so will likely need to shim it out to fix the bumper and side trim.

    I'm looking forward to this project. As though I didn't have enough auto maintenance projects with me E39.

    List of projects:
    Engine
    Timing belt/water pump on the new engine
    Get rid of that ridiculous exhaust
    Seat leather
    Get the sports seats to work (no adjustment right now)
    Convertible boot latch lever
    Rear bumper repair (would love to go to the plastics)
    New tires
    Complete detailing including extensive work on the paint
    Convertible top refitting
    Replace one headlight
    That wonder of german engineering - the glove box latch
    Painting exterior plastic grilles
    On and on...

    Thanks for looking!
    Last edited by clarkitect; 09-18-2020 at 07:12 AM. Reason: changed picture hosting services

  11. #11
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    I think you have a solid car and will have as much fun bringing it back from the dead. I have worked on mine in the winter mts. And the fun of driveing them never goes away I fact I would get a 3rd vert if I could find one. Even a parts car. Have fun. Bill W

  12. #12
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    I agree with the approach to find a M20B25 engine from another 325i ... and based on those photos I think you have a nice car (I would buy one like that for that price..) ... from that list below the photos, once the engine with a new timing belt is in you will be running and have a little project list to work on in your spare time ... a $200 set of Iggee color coordinated seat covers (includes both sides on the front) will clean up that interior pretty fast..
    ... forty-three years of driving before I get behind the wheel of a BMW .... and I am thinking, "why did it take me so long?"
    ... and then after another 4 years I can't believe that I have two of them !!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodwowe View Post
    I think you have a solid car and will have as much fun bringing it back from the dead. I have worked on mine in the winter mts. And the fun of driveing them never goes away I fact I would get a 3rd vert if I could find one. Even a parts car. Have fun. Bill W
    Thanks Bill I can't wait to take it for a spin. I have never even driven an E30! I found a vert parts car on CL but alas it had already been sold. That would have made my life very easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by my1stE30 View Post
    I agree with the approach to find a M20B25 engine from another 325i ... and based on those photos I think you have a nice car (I would buy one like that for that price..) ... from that list below the photos, once the engine with a new timing belt is in you will be running and have a little project list to work on in your spare time ... a $200 set of Iggee color coordinated seat covers (includes both sides on the front) will clean up that interior pretty fast..
    This thing has been sitting since before Christmas, and has a valid inspection sticker so I'm hoping I can drop the engine in it and get it on the road on a limited basis. This car is perfect for the weekend putterer.

    I've seen those Iggee seat covers and they look pretty good. A nice fallback if I can't find a decent sport driver's seat.

  14. #14
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    Have fun!

  15. #15
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    Iggee covers

    +1 on the Iggee covers. I put 'em on my wife's '98 328i and even she is very happy with them.

  16. #16
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    I like it
    I would not personally spend more than 500 on a non running car. I would be stoked to buy that one for 500 very nice paint....though
    why dont you just buy the head out of a junkyard engine? You can do the whole job then without a lift.

    There will be private bmw part outs taht would let that go for next to nothing as well
    Last edited by stamar; 04-28-2011 at 07:28 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stamar View Post
    I like it
    I would not personally spend more than 500 on a non running car. I would be stoked to buy that one for 500 very nice paint....though
    why dont you just buy the head out of a junkyard engine? You can do the whole job then without a lift.

    There will be private bmw part outs taht would let that go for next to nothing as well
    Yeah after I offered him $900 I was like "why the hell didn't I offer him $500???". Probably could have gotten it for that. Even so, here in the northeast for $900 I think it was a decent enough deal - no rust, brand new top, new stereo. Anyway, I don't want to regret anything, so let's leave that one alone.

    By the time I pick up a cheap head, headgasket kit, etc, I will end up with a few hundred bucks invested anyway. Might as well just buy a whole motor. Plus I am concerned with the lower end with all the white goo in it.

    Can't that be bad for the bearings and crank journals?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by spedheded View Post
    Might as well just buy a whole motor. Plus I am concerned with the lower end with all the white goo in it.

    Can't that be bad for the bearings and crank journals?
    The white goo ... as you called it ... is VERY BAD for the bearings and crankshaft ... the contaminated oil has no heat tolerance and a GREATLY reduced lubrication ability ... a decision to continue using this engine with a new head would require a very close inspection of the bearings and there would still be residual risk ... I agree, why not just get an entire engine for replacement ... maybe you can even find a low mileage one out of a wrecked car ..
    ... forty-three years of driving before I get behind the wheel of a BMW .... and I am thinking, "why did it take me so long?"
    ... and then after another 4 years I can't believe that I have two of them !!

  19. #19
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    You need to look up Levent at www.gutenparts.com. He is a huge community supporter and has lots of parts to help you get that thing pristine again. Tell him Tim sent you.


    1987 E30 cabrio | Bumper swap | H&R Sport | Koni Yellow | Eibach Sways | BavAuto strut bar | Cardinal seats | MTech2 wheel | Armrest | Smoked Hella Smileys | 5k HID | Stromung | RS003

    2000 E39 M5 | Stoptech brakes | Refinished OEM wheels w/10mm spacers | Powerchips Gold 91 | Timmay Tips/muffler delete | Functional brake ducts | DICE MB1500 Slimm diffuser | Cubic black trim w/alcantara boots



  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by my1stE30 View Post
    The white goo ... as you called it ... is VERY BAD for the bearings and crankshaft ...
    I thought I remembered that from my days working in my dad's gas station (how many years ago?!...)

    Why take any chances and put a bunch of time/money/effort to have to redo it when it develops a knock? I found a good running motor that burns no oil and has been well maintained. It's being relieved of duty in favor of an M50. I think this is the motor for me, just kind of sitting back before I pull the trigger. Oh, and my 530i is blocking the garage while I swap a rear wheel bearing anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by VacMan View Post
    You need to look up Levent at www.gutenparts.com. He is a huge community supporter and has lots of parts to help you get that thing pristine again. Tell him Tim sent you.
    Thanks Tim! I will follow up on this. Much appreciated.

    BTW - nice stable of bimmers you have there.

  21. #21
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    The extreme amount of extra labor wiring it all up is the reason. pulling the old one out etc.

    Replacing a head can be a one day project but replacing the whole engine is major. The parts are a non subject its the engine hoist etc. if you have to do it you do though.

    as ive said with shopping you can get the head for next to nothing. In fact I think the picknpull price is like 50$
    Last edited by stamar; 04-29-2011 at 11:09 PM.

  22. #22
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    So this thread is ancient now. But car is still running, wife drives it daily in the summertime. Ended up pulling the old motor and installing a used engine. In retrospect I wish I had just picked up a nice rebuilt motor, or rebuilt myself. Car will be a winter project this year, and after nearly 10 years I guess the timing belt, even with only about 15k miles on it, is old enough that it should be replaced. Will be tempted to yank the engine again and do it right this time around.

    Here's what happened to the old motor. Someone had adjusted the valves but dropped one of the bolts that go through the eccentric on the rocker arm. Must have figured they lost it, but it was inside the camshaft gallery. One of the lobes came around and punched it through the top rupturing the coolant chamber. Bummer.


    Resealed engine was installed. Still going after 10 years, a bit tired is all.


    Car needs suspension refresh, especially the rear. Subframe bushings are shot, rattle over bumps.




    Out with the old:




    Bushings were seized into the body, so had to do the 5/8" bolt, bent rod, BFH trick. Driver side went smoothly, passenger side took some beating.




    Rust blows. Fortunately the car is decent for a New England car, but surface rust and corrosion here and there will be addressed.

    To gain better access to the subframe bolt holes with a rod for pounding them out I bored an extra hole with a hole saw. Made it quite easy to work with. Holes will be cleaned up and painted prior to reassembly.


    Cobbed together exhaust, corroded heat shields, fasteners, etc to be addressed.


    I bought Meyle trailing arm and subframe bushings for this job. Seriously considering returning those and doing poly bushings. Car is not driven much but I think might be a better solution. I used Powerflex front control arm bushings on my E46 and they worked great. Also hope to replace whatever else I need to on the subframe - wheel bearings, diff seals, fluid, axle CV joint boots. Driveshaft is kinda wonky. Old U-joints a bit creaky, so thinking a new DS from Texas. When rear is done will turn my attention to the front.

    Suggestions welcome. Thanks for reading.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  23. #23
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    No e30s, again :(
    Poly for those bushings does not effect ride, we did my son's car that way so we would never have to do them again. Engine and trans, always stock but suspension and subframe can be poly.

    Car looks great for 10 years of summer use since you
    No e30s again.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    Poly for those bushings does not effect ride, we did my son's car that way so we would never have to do them again. Engine and trans, always stock but suspension and subframe can be poly.

    Car looks great for 10 years of summer use since you
    Yeah I haven't noticed any negative ride effects on my E46. Definitely need to consider the polys on this car. Pricier than the stock but probably worth the investment.

    Car does look pretty good! Wish I had some exterior photos of it to post. Maybe once I get it down on the ground. Looks kinda like this now, only with no rear wheels;
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  25. #25
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    No e30s, again :(
    Still looks good though
    No e30s again.

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