New windshield washer pump not working

[MrToSlo]

i replaced the washer pump with a new one. it was working for about a month and now it doesn't work anymore.

i don't hear the pump running and i also checked the following:

- washer tank is full
- lines are not clogged
- fuses were OK
- used a multimeter and verified 12 volts to the washer pump power connection


i figured the pump went bad, so i replaced the washer pump with a brand new one. it doesn't work and i still don't hear the washer pump running.


does anyone have any ideas as to what is the problem?


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ok so i just found out something interesting...

when i have the washer pump power disconnected and i pull the lever inside the car to activate it, i get 12 volts.

when i have the washer pump power connected and i pull the lever inside the car to activate it, the multimeter reads 9 - 10 volts.

i'm guessing it's shorting out somewhere, but have not found where...

[MrToSlo]

an ideas? i'm at a lose here...

[flyfishvt]

Try wiggling the wires that go to the connector. They have a tendency to bend and break right at the connector.

[medic1dl]

There is a relay for the Wiper/washer under the dash. Test it to see if it is good.

[copcarguyp71]

two things come to mind...

1 - When you tested for voltage did you check the positive and negative or positive and the other lead to a convenient screw or a readily available ground? If you tested that way you could still have a bad ground even though you are seeing 12 volts.

2 - An easy test would be to pull the pump and use some thin gauge jumper wires to "hot wire" it at the battery just to test it and make sure it works.

Like the previous post said you could also have loose connections at the connector. Hope this helps.

[MrToSlo]

thanks for the replies so far. i tried wiggling the connector and not luck. i'll check the relay...

two things come to mind...

1 - When you tested for voltage did you check the positive and negative or positive and the other lead to a convenient screw or a readily available ground? If you tested that way you could still have a bad ground even though you are seeing 12 volts.

2 - An easy test would be to pull the pump and use some thin gauge jumper wires to "hot wire" it at the battery just to test it and make sure it works.

Like the previous post said you could also have loose connections at the connector. Hope this helps.

1 - i tested the positive and negative. didn't try positive and readily available ground.

2 - i will try this, though it's hard to imagine 2 brand new pumps are bad.


also, i can't believe i missed this, but can anyone identify what this wire is for (circled in red)? i just found it hanging in my car...looks like the end was ripped off.



before anyone asks questions: the pump i bought was from NAPA and it was the flat pin connector, not the round pin (they only had the flat pin). as a result i had to solder the wires into the OEM round pin connector wiring. i individually wrapped the wires with electrical tape. it looks like crap right now cause i kept unwrapping and reapplying the same tape when i was troubleshooting. as stated earlier, this setup worked for about a month before it stopped working.

[copcarguyp71]

If you inserted your test leads right into the back side of the female spade connectors at the pump itself while it was plugged into the pump and when you activated the pump you got 12volts at the pump then I would say bad pump. You could always do the hotwire to the battery method to test though. Is there any sludge in the washer reservior or could you have had ice in there that caused the pump to bind up and burn out prematurely?

[flyfishvt]

That wire could be anything but my suspision is that you have the "Winter Package" and that wire used to go to the Thermoswitch that turns on the heated mrrors, door lock and washer jets. If you are unsure if you have the winter package there is one sure way to tell. If you have it then there will be wires going to the washer jets along with the fluid tubing.

If its for the thermoswitch the wires will be green and at least one of them has a stripe.

[MrToSlo]

If you inserted your test leads right into the back side of the female spade connectors at the pump itself while it was plugged into the pump and when you activated the pump you got 12volts at the pump then I would say bad pump. You could always do the hotwire to the battery method to test though. Is there any sludge in the washer reservior or could you have had ice in there that caused the pump to bind up and burn out prematurely?

i hotwired the washer pump to the car battery and it turned on without any hesitation. i verified that there is no sludge or ice build up in the reservoir.

in regards to the voltage, it drops to ~10 volts when the washer pump is connected and i try to activate it via the lever inside the car. when it is unconnected from the washer pump, i get 12 volts to the connectors according to the multimeter.

That wire could be anything but my suspision is that you have the "Winter Package" and that wire used to go to the Thermoswitch that turns on the heated mrrors, door lock and washer jets. If you are unsure if you have the winter package there is one sure way to tell. If you have it then there will be wires going to the washer jets along with the fluid tubing.

If its for the thermoswitch the wires will be green and at least one of them has a stripe.

not sure if i have the winter package. all i know is that it's a 96 328i w/ sport package.

[flyfishvt]

Then tell us what color the wires are. There's really only about 4 or 5 things it can be in that corner.

[MrToSlo]

Then tell us what color the wires are. There's really only about 4 or 5 things it can be in that corner.

the wire that i circled a couple posts above is black with a red stripe. i looked around the engine bay and found what i believe to be what it was connected to (it was a bare terminal with a crimped end). i tried to take a pic here:




the wires (washer pump, reservoir level wire and the ripped wire) are all bunched together and go along the path shown in the pic below:

[copcarguyp71]

Well with that kind of voltage drop you have a problem somewhere. Next test the same way you did before at the pump with all connections hooked up but this time hook your negative test lead to a known good ground like the engine block or something like that. If you see good voltage instead of the 10 volts you measured on the last test then you have a bad ground. It may have something to do with that loose wire you found but I am not 100% sure on that. If it is a bad ground and you want the easy answer then just run an auxillary ground to a bolt with a ring lug and that should get you back in business.

[MrToSlo]

Well with that kind of voltage drop you have a problem somewhere. Next test the same way you did before at the pump with all connections hooked up but this time hook your negative test lead to a known good ground like the engine block or something like that. If you see good voltage instead of the 10 volts you measured on the last test then you have a bad ground. It may have something to do with that loose wire you found but I am not 100% sure on that. If it is a bad ground and you want the easy answer then just run an auxillary ground to a bolt with a ring lug and that should get you back in business.

i'll try that and report back.

There is a relay for the Wiper/washer under the dash. Test it to see if it is good.

i looked through the Bentley manual and it only shows a relays for the wiper and wiper motor. i'll check these, but my wipers work fine.

i didn't find anything for a washer relay though.

[flyfishvt]

I believe the wiper/washer relay is part of the wiper module behind the glovebox. It should be one of the ones at the bottom of the stack and it has just one connector. Its called a "WI WA" module.

As far as that torn wire.....a single black wire with a red stripe goes to your A/C compressor/pressure switch. it should have a yellow stripe too. That's the only single/non pair wire in that location.

[MrToSlo]

ok so here's what i found out so far:

• i tried replacing the wiper/washer relay module, but the washer pump still does not work
• the torn wire in one of my earlier posts was for the AC compressor
• i even tried replacing the washer pump with an OEM washer pump to use the original BMW connector, but it still doesn't work

i still have to test to see if i have a bad ground, but that seems to be the likely culprit at this point.

[Andzzz]

Did you get anywhere with this. I have exactly the same problem, have also replaced the wash/wipe module plus the pump. Have the same voltage drop etc.

[Andzzz]

Did you get anywhere with this. I have exactly the same problem, have also replaced the wash/wipe module plus the pump. Have the same voltage drop etc.

Further investigations reveal;

- I have 12v on both washer pump wires when tested to ground, when pump not connected.
- when pump is plugged in 0 volts
- I get the very odd whine from motor. Very short and seldom.
- tested actual connector which is fine

Am starting to think this is going to be an expensive auto electrician job unless anyone has any other ideas?

[MrToSlo]

Did you get anywhere with this. I have exactly the same problem, have also replaced the wash/wipe module plus the pump. Have the same voltage drop etc.

nope, have not found a fix for this yet. i'm almost certain there's a bad wire somewhere.

looks like we're not the only ones with the problem - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...52#post6021452


i'll try to look tonight while i have the front of the car apart. does anyone know where the washer pump wiring leads to?


---------------------------------

possible solution - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...7&postcount=16

[Andzzz]

Let me know how you go. Did you check your switch as per the possible solution you posted?

As I get the wiper sweep when the pump isnt connected I can't see how that can be the issue for me, but to be honest I am willing to try anything as I am stumped!

Cheers.. andzzzzzzz

[MrToSlo]

haven't had a chance to try it, but now that i actually think about it, you're right...the wiper stalk switch shouldn't be the issue if it works with the washer pump disconnected.

i'm almost certain it's a ground issue...gonna try to ground it somewhere else and see if it works.

[richardodn]

General description of washer pump circuit:

Power is supplied from F44 in accy, run, and start. Power is applied directly to the washer pump on the violet/white wire. Ground to the pump is on the brown/violet wire and grounds through the WWM.

1. Check for 12V on the violet/white wire in accy, run, and start. If no power, then you have a power supply problem. Check fuse and wiring for faults.
2. Jump the pump connector brown/violet wire side to chassis ground. If the pump does not activate you have a bad pump or connection at the pump.
3. Pull the x285 connector from the WWM and jump pin 10 (still brown/violet wire) to chassis ground. If the pump does not activate, you have a bad wire or connection between the pump and the WWM.
4. Reconnect x285 and jump pin 11 (a different brown/violet wire) to chassis ground. This simulates using the washer switch. If the pump now activates, you have a bad washer switch.
5. If the pump did not activate on step 4, verify all the grounds for the WWM. Disconnect x285 again. Do a continuity test between chassis ground and each of the x285 pins 7 & 15. Check for 12V on pins 2, 8, & 14. If all these check out, you have a bad WWM.


Connector x285 is a blue 15 pin connector and can be located with the WWM behind the glovebox. Looking at the connector face with the 8 pins on top, pins are numbered

8  7  6  5  4  3  2  1
 15 14 13 12 11 10  9

[MrToSlo]

with a new ground, the water pump activated by itself without me actually initiating it through the wiper switch. it kept spraying washer fluid with the wipers wiping and i had no control over it.

i have limited knowledge of electrical related things, but i'm guessing the new ground just closed the circuit...?

[Andzzz]

General description of washer pump circuit:

Power is supplied from F44 in accy, run, and start. Power is applied directly to the washer pump on the violet/white wire. Ground to the pump is on the brown/violet wire and grounds through the WWM.

1. Check for 12V on the violet/white wire in accy, run, and start. If no power, then you have a power supply problem. Check fuse and wiring for faults.
2. Jump the pump connector brown/violet wire side to chassis ground. If the pump does not activate you have a bad pump or connection at the pump.
3. Pull the x285 connector from the WWM and jump pin 10 (still brown/violet wire) to chassis ground. If the pump does not activate, you have a bad wire or connection between the pump and the WWM.
4. Reconnect x285 and jump pin 11 (a different brown/violet wire) to chassis ground. This simulates using the washer switch. If the pump now activates, you have a bad washer switch.
5. If the pump did not activate on step 4, verify all the grounds for the WWM. Disconnect x285 again. Do a continuity test between chassis ground and each of the x285 pins 7 & 15. Check for 12V on pins 2, 8, & 14. If all these check out, you have a bad WWM.


Connector x285 is a blue 15 pin connector and can be located with the WWM behind the glovebox. Looking at the connector face with the 8 pins on top, pins are numbered

8  7  6  5  4  3  2  1
 15 14 13 12 11 10  9

Thanks for this. With the pin-out I can work through this and isolate the problem over the weekend. Will let you know how I go.
Cheers.. andzzz

[MrToSlo]

Thanks for this. With the pin-out I can work through this and isolate the problem over the weekend. Will let you know how I go.
Cheers.. andzzz

any new developments?

i haven't been able to get around to this on my car...been trying to hunt down a vacuum leak issue on my car.

[Andzzz]

any new developments?

i haven't been able to get around to this on my car...been trying to hunt down a vacuum leak issue on my car.

To be honest the thought of pulling my dash apart again wasn't as appealing as taking a drive with the top down

Hopefully get to it this weekend, starting with the things I can do easily.