No apology necessary. It sounds like you have the right setup. 5" CW with 5" backing plate. What speed are you running the machine on? Speed 5 does vibrate a bit, and speed 6 vibrates like crazy, regardless of CW/BP combo.Originally Posted by asdfbunk
David.
Woohoo! I got my PC7424 yesterday. Like a kid at christmas! Cant wait until my cars out of the shop so I can polish the hell out of it!
I see. Yeah, I've been using it on speed 6. I stopped halfway through the whole detailing process after it was vibrating like crazy (only finished washing and claying, but it took 2 hours ), and came here for help. Guess I'll finish detailing this weekend (courtesy of your guides of course ). Thanks again.Originally Posted by David
Just wanted to say thanks David for the tutorial. Got myself a pc and we did four cars last sunday. Followed your steps and the results were flawless my sav's jet black paint never looked darker and deeper, plus it removed all the swirlmarks that I'd had since new. Paint looks better than when I first bought it. Thanks again you rock
Tu
Tu,
Thank you for the kind words. You're very welcome. I'm glad all you guys are getting such outstanding results!!! Good to see.
David.
What is a foam polisher pad?
-Kyle 1995 Custom Turbo M3 SOLD!
You mean a foam polishing pad? It is a pad made of foam that is attached to a machine buffer using velcro. It's purpose is to polish out paint defects in conjunction with a paint polish.Originally Posted by BMuu
David.
I've just been reading through this thread and I've learned quite a bit, David. Thanks for the info!
I wanted to second the choice of quick detailing for dealing with bird attacks. As you suggested, I have a bottle of it in my trunk along with a MF towel and use it when necessary. Obviously, getting to the scene of the "crime" as quickly as possible makes cleaning easier, but the results are amazing....
I've also used a porsche bug spray to deal with bug remains on both the front of the car and glass surfaces. I suspect that Porsche dealers may sell it, but I've always bought it online. I don't think it is quite as agressive as a bug and tar remover might be, but I think it is a nice alternative.....Here's a link to it for those interested:
http://www.properautocare.com/porteqinrem.html
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
how long after the third coat of sg do i have to wait before i wax and should i wash even if the car has been in the garage the whole time or only if i have been driving it.
also, what is the best way to apply s100 wax. i apologize if you have already answered these questions.
i read through but didnt see any definite answer.
thanks much.
ian,Originally Posted by ianv
You can wait a minimum of 24 hours to top SG with a wax. I personally stick to waiting 1 week.
You don't need to wash the car before waxing if it has not been driven anywhere. Just lightly dust it with a dry mf. I'm sure it will have accumulated some dust in the garage.
To apply s100, wipe it on to a section (half the hood, half the roof, etc), and immediately wipe it off. Keep doing this until the car is done.
thanks much,
i have gone through your entire guide step by step, just applied the last coat of sg and am about to apply the sg. the paint looks so much better, just in time for the rainy northwest fall/winter/spring.
once again, thank you for taking the time to write this guide to detailing.
So I washed and clayed and waxed my car tonight and since the light is lost early these days, I barely finished before dark.
I used Meguiars car soap followed by Pinnacle clay and lube wiped with gold mf towel and then Meguiars Cleaner Wax (claims safe for Cear Coat) then wiped that with blue mf towel.
I wanted to do a thorough detailing, but as I explained, I ran out of light.
That is why I used the cleaner wax rather than polishing then waxing.
Is it neceassary to wash a 2nd time after claying before polishing or will the cleaner wax do the job adequately?
I did this all by hand even though i have had my PC for over a year and still haven't used it bc I'm always pressed for time since I have other projects with the car to complete.
If you wiped off the QD residue from each panel as you went along, then no, you don't have to wash the car after claying. If you did not wipe it off, and let it dry, then you should re-wash before waxing.Originally Posted by Balthazarr
David:
First, thanks for the great post. I've always wanted to do a proper, full detail on my car(s) but have never known where to start. Well, you've given it to me. I just ordered over 200 bucks worth of detailing stuff (PC, Klasse stuff, Fi2, pads, MF towels, etc.) and am ready to go.
My question continues on what someone else asked regarding bugs and other crud that builds up on the front bumper. I want to try bug/tar remover as you suggested, but was wondering where in the process this should be done. Could I safely do it before I even wash the car? Then do the whole wash, dry, clay, polish, seal process as normal? This brings me to my next question: Do the plastic/fiberglass parts (bumpers, wings, skirts) require any special treatment or react differently than the metal panels? The reason I ask is because I've seen wings and such that are faded while the rest of the car is fine.
Thanks again,
Chris
wifeyse46,Originally Posted by wifeyse46
No no, use the bug and tar remover after washing, and before claying. You don't want to clay tar and bugs. The contamination will be too large for the clay. If it gets trapped you will end up scratching the surface.
The only difference I know of between paint on metal and plastic, is that pint on plastic has flexing agents in it. Don't know exactly what it does. Regardless, this should not change how you care for the paint. Just follow the normal process and you'll be fine.
Hope this helped.
Excellent, thanks!
Yes, it helps immensely, as do all your posts.
Chris
David,
Have you ever used Zaino Bros? If so, can you describe why you prefer the Klasse SG?
Nice set of faqs, thanks for the work and continued answers.
ADS
ADS, I have used zaino and like it quite a bit. Both zaino and klasse offer excellent durability. I was originally an exclusive klasse user, hence the SG writeup. But I have ventured beyond that and now use many different products.Originally Posted by adsingl
If you choose to use zaino in the detailing 101 regimen, then begin the zaino process after the AIO step. So you would;
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish out swirls (FI2)
4. AIO
5. Z1 or ZFX and Z2 or Z5
Keep in mind, with the detailing 101 system, dawn (as recomended on the zaino website) is not a required step for zaino. AIO replaces what dawn does.
I use AIO under zaino with no problems.
Thanks much!
ADS
David, you say you clean the wheels first, then start with a fresh bucket of soapy water and clean the rest of the car. Is there a reason why you clean the wheels before the rest of the car? Seems like if you waited to do the wheels last you could use the same bucket as you use to clean the rest of the car.
I clean the wheels first so I don't have to get the rest of the car wet to reduce or eliminate water spotting. I use multiple buckets, 2 for wash, 1 for wheels.
If you wash the wheels last, then the water from washing the body panels will have longer to sit and create spots. If you wash the wheels first then the body, you can immediately start drying the car as soon as you finish washing washing, reducing water spots.Originally Posted by Phat Ham
David, In one of your "How To" Articles, you write
"Apply three lines of polish around the edge of the pad. Take the polisher and smear the product into the section you are going to work while the polisher is off. This will totally eliminate splatter. Do 2x2 sections at a time. Turn the machine on, and work the product in @ speed 2. Go in up and down and then back and forth overlapping motions. When the polish starts to dry, up the speed to 4-4.5 and buff off as much as you can. The shine should start to come thru. Use a quality cotton or MF towel to remove any remaining residue. Do each 2x 2 section as many times as you have to until the swirls are gone. I use a 1000-watt halogen light on a tripod to help me see my progress."
I'm confused on the buffing part. Do you change pads before upping the speed and buffing or are you using the same pad for application and buffing? Also, if you change pads for buffing, what pads do you use, terry cloth or microfiber buffing pads? I have a brand new black BMW and I am going to try your method this weekend! Thanks.
Hey man.Originally Posted by The Shizzo
No, I don't change the pads. Same ones. When I say buff, you're not really going to get all the residue off. You'll still need to wipe the panel off with an MF. Use foam pads.
Let us know how the detail goes!
David.
ok, so i am new to this whole thing and finally got a chance to read the tutorial by david(thanks by the way).but i am still left with a few questions while trying to piece together all the products he recommended.
first off, i am planning on getting the PC 7336
~do i need to get a velcro pad?
-----if so, a flexible one or fixed
~what are all the different kinds of pads for ( cutting, etc.)
----during what steps should i use each pad
----does anybody sell all pads as a set
~can you use a regular mf to dry a car or do you have to use the waffle weave only
~do i need to get the mf cleaner and revitalizer or can i use some other kind of soap i can find at home
~can i use the PC to take off wax
-----if so, what pad should i use
~also, the tutorial says that topoftheline.com sells lake country pads in a package for 6 for $45, but i looked all over the site but could not find it. If anybody could link me, that would be great.
~pakshak.com is suppose to have a 10mf's and 1 waffle weave set, but i could not find it. does anybody know if they still offer this package.
*any links would be helpful also.
thanks
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