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Thread: Electric Fan OEM Style!

  1. #1
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    Electric Fan OEM Style!

    It's done.

    Enjoy some pix.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Nice!
    No DIY?

    Impressions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Nice!
    No DIY?

    Impressions?
    Ditto and also what is the toggle switch for and what type of fan did you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Nice!
    No DIY?

    Impressions?
    I will put something together tonight. Too busy today.
    As for impression!
    It's a piece of mind.
    The fan is nice and quiet, and only drawn 13 amps.

    Quote Originally Posted by RDR-EURO View Post
    Ditto and also what is the toggle switch for and what type of fan did you use?

    It's an override toggle switch. It overrides all sensors and force the fan to be ON. The fan relay control came with this option, and I'm glad to use it.
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  5. #5
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    Its funny I just logged in to see how your project was coming along. Couple of questions. Why can't you tap into the temp sensor in the lower hose? Doesn't that tell the Aux fan when to turn on? Or is that temp switch set so hot to turn on the Aux fan only? Also are you scared that the shroud will eventually give way under the weight of the fan?3 bills for the Zionville shroud is A LOT!

    1999 E39 Touring Sport and 3 pedals

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by xpcgamer View Post
    Its funny I just logged in to see how your project was coming along. Couple of questions. Why can't you tap into the temp sensor in the lower hose? Doesn't that tell the Aux fan when to turn on? Or is that temp switch set so hot to turn on the Aux fan only? Also are you scared that the shroud will eventually give way under the weight of the fan?3 bills for the Zionville shroud is A LOT!
    No, you can't just tap into the existent sensor on the lower radiator hose because you will inadvertently changed the impedance resistance of that sensor and therefore will change the calibration of how the aux fan will be turned on and off. Besides, the new Derale fan relay control has its own thermo sensor that is calibrated to the relay controller.

    Also are you scared that the shroud will eventually give way under the weight of the fan?3 bills for the Zionville shroud is A LOT!
    Don't be scared! Do it right and the word scare will never come to mind.

    Last time I checked the price, it was more like 6 bills NOT 3.

  7. #7
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    awesone stuff. Good to see you took my suggestion on the temperature switch adapter. where did you end up getting it from?

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    Idk, if its a great idea of hanging the fan on the shroud like that... I've attached my fan to the radiator with x2 2mm thick metal sheets, here is a better picture



    Then I put back the oem shroud fan on, and all is great!

    Hope this helps

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
    No, you can't just tap into the existent sensor on the lower radiator hose because you will inadvertently changed the impedance resistance of that sensor and therefore will change the calibration of how the aux fan will be turned on and off.
    Are you sure about this? I think the stock fan switch is just that, a switch. Coolant heats it up and the switch parts connect inside, allowing the ground circuit to complete, triggering the relay that controls the fan. Tapping into that ground circuit to trigger your new fan relay may add resistance, but will not alter the internals of the switch. To the extent it adds resistance, it will not be enough to measure in terms of fan triggering temperature. Maybe the relay will be grounded .0001 second later. That said, I am not an electrical engineer or a physicist, so I am open to enlightenment.

    Quote Originally Posted by filon102 View Post
    Idk, if its a great idea of hanging the fan on the shroud like that... I've attached my fan to the radiator with x2 2mm thick metal sheets, here is a better picture



    Then I put back the oem shroud fan on, and all is great!

    Hope this helps
    If you are spacing the fan out from the core so it is using the shroud to direct air to it, this works. If you are just using thin strapping or channel steel to mount the fan to the core, the putting the shroud above the fan does very little -- but maybe a little if the fan discharge helps vacuum the air from the rest of the radiator out the stock shroud hole.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 01-03-2011 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    awesone stuff. Good to see you took my suggestion on the temperature switch adapter. where did you end up getting it from?

    Thank you Schitzo,

    Yes, the thermo sensor adapter turned out pefect. I've got it from Summit Racing.

    Pbonsalb,

    There are two reasons you don't want to use the existent sensor on the lower radiator hose that I can think of.

    1/ You don't want both fans to be on at the same time to often. Too much current drawn.

    2/ Resistance offset between BMW sensor and Derale thermo sensor is too great that it might screwed up your range in the variable potentiometer.
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  11. #11
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    Yeah bolting the fan directly to the Radiator is not so good. Your only cooling and drawing air only where the fan is. The shroud serves no purpose. I am also guessing that the Aux fan turns on when the car is HOT not to just cool the motor or when the AC is on to pull air across the condenser. I assume that is why you could not tap into it. Did you mount the temp sensor in the lower radiator hose?

    1999 E39 Touring Sport and 3 pedals

  12. #12
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    Both fans on at the same time is fine. From the factory, the stock mechanical puller fan and the electric pusher fan will be on at the same time under certain conditions. Both are necessary for maximum cooling, though when maximum cooling is not needed, obviously one fan alone can do the job. The puller fan should be the stronger of the two fans for maximum efficiency, so you be running it more. On cars with all electric fans, you will find them on at the same time, as necessary. To the extent the electrical system (alternator and/or battery) need to be upgraded, it is wiser to do so than to reduce the cooling potential. Probably the electrical system has sufficient overhead, though I have not load tested my 99 528i alternator. The summit fans draw only about 10 amps as I recall, but I do not have the catalog in front of me. On my 99 M3, I use a Derale that draws about twice that number of amps, but I did change the alternator from 80A to 140A (I used to run 4 electric fans when I had a supercharger).

    If using the aftermarket temperature sensor/switch, then tapping into the factory switch is unnecessary. The aftermarket sensor/switch is the better method of controlling the primary fan rather than have both off the same switch (though that can work) so you can have staggered trigger points. I prefer to have the primary fan controlled by a temperature switch in the head or block than in the radiator, though. From the factory, electric primary fans are usually triggered by engine mounted switches. I have found the radiator switch triggers at different temps depending on weather and running conditions compared to coolant temps in the engine, at least according to my aftermarket temp gauge and an infrared. Anyway, borrowing an ignition key sourced ground for a relay trigger from the stock fan switch won't make any difference in the trigger point of your stock electric fan, though there are obviously alternative sources for a power or ground trigger for the relay. The AC tie-in to the fan switch does not affect using it to trigger your relay provided you don't mind having your primary fan run with the AC as well -- it would likely improve your AC function.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 01-04-2011 at 09:16 AM.

  13. #13
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    Here are the parts that needed for the mod. I ordered them through Summit Racing.

    1- SUM-G4904 - Electric Fan, Single, 16 in. Diameter, Reversible, 2,010 cfm, Black, Plastic, Each $84.95
    - I went with this because it's a curved fan which will lower the noise level, and I'm very please with the outcome, also it is reversible for puller or pusher type of use.

    2- DER-16749 - Fan Control, Thermostatic, Adjustable, 150 to 240 Degrees, Kit $39.95
    - I picked this because temperature setting to activate the fan is adjustable.

    3- ATM-2283 - Radiator Hose Adapter, Aluminum, 1.5 in. to 1.5 in., Kit $37.95
    - Aluminum and they are the only place that I can find to carry 3/8 NPT port.

    I also bough a new fan shroud, so I can take my time working without hurrying.

    I went to work at it, to begin I cut the top portion of the shroud to make it even. Here are some pix.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 08:48 PM.

  14. #14
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    great work. must be super quiet now haha


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    Then I went to work on the fan itself

    Remember, the fan is shipped as a pusher, there will be instruction for you to turn it to a puller.
    While you're at it, remove the motor, rotate the motor about 60 degree to find the higher mounting points using the same screws, this helps reduce the profile of the fan, the more profile the better.

    Here is a picture of the fan itself has to be cut in order to accommodate the shroud. I had to cut about half an inch from the top center.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 11:31 PM.

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    Now it's time to fasten the fan to the shroud I chose.

    Need 5 M6 by 30 mm long. Need 5
    Need 15 M6 nuts.
    And 10 lock washers.

    I had to grind the head of the bolts down a little to fit inside the fan slots. Take a look at the pix.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 09:27 PM.

  17. #17
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    Time to drill holes and install the fan inside the shroud.
    I put the fan on top of the shroud and then eye ball for even gap all around.
    With magic marker, I marked the 5 positions where I will be drilling and about 1-1/4 inch depth.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 09:48 PM.

  18. #18
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    I thought it would better to give it some re-enforce strength so I went and bought some 1x1x1/16 thick aluminum angle bracket and some JB Welder from Home Depot.

    I also went wild on the JB welder. Hey no such thing is over engineer!
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    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 10:13 PM.

  19. #19
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    Now for the thermo sensor switch in the lower radiator hose.

    The system will not let me download any more pix

  20. #20
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    Specs on that "Little Tikes" yellow chair. Looks bad ass!


    The install looks like perfection. I approve!

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    Again looks good. I think the gap from the factory mechanical fan is just a bit smaller than yours. I think I might start to gather parts for my on setup. Keep the pics and ideas coming!

    I was reading this http://e39m5fan.blogspot.com/2010/05/diy.html
    Do you think this might work better? Its a bigger fan in 18" and its kinda of back from the radiator. It pulls more CFM's and gets mounted to the radiator instead of hanging on the shroud. Honestly 6 or half a dozen but I think it may be the same thing no? You have more efficiency running the shroud with such a small gap between the shroud and fan, and the other fan is larger and mounts to the radiator. What are your thoughts?
    Last edited by xpcgamer; 01-03-2011 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

    1999 E39 Touring Sport and 3 pedals

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4u View Post
    Specs on that "Little Tikes" yellow chair. Looks bad ass!


    The install looks like perfection. I approve!
    Specs! for "LittleTikes" no big FAT ass over 500 LBS can park on it or it will crumbles like BMW plastic He he!

    Thank you Gumbi.

    Quote Originally Posted by xpcgamer View Post
    Again looks good. I think the gap from the factory mechanical fan is just a bit smaller than yours. I think I might start to gather parts for my on setup. Keep the pics and ideas coming!

    I was reading this http://e39m5fan.blogspot.com/2010/05/diy.html
    Do you think this might work better? Its a bigger fan in 18" and its kinda of back from the radiator. It pulls more CFM's and gets mounted to the radiator instead of hanging on the shroud. Honestly 6 or half a dozen but I think it may be the same thing no? You have more efficiency running the shroud with such a small gap between the shroud and fan, and the other fan is larger and mounts to the radiator. What are your thoughts?
    Thanks man,
    But, hey if it's good enough for you it's good enough for me, you have to deal with it, not me
    Last edited by 16valex; 01-03-2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  23. #23
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    wow looks great man! Im going to have to show my friend this for his e39.

  24. #24
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    Guys I can not upload any more picture due to their high resolution. I'm gonna have to ask you to follow this link to the Fest.

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=509992

  25. #25
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    Thanks again. I was just asking because you have apparently done your homework on this and wanted to know your opinion.

    1999 E39 Touring Sport and 3 pedals

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