Radio Code Doesn't work?

[Moron95M3]

Have a radio I got from a member, no code with it. (A CM5903L Alpine IIRC).


Called two different dealerships, and got the code from them. They both gave me the same code.


Install radio, turn ignition on. Radio says 'code'. I enter it (it beeps at every button so I know it's getting the input). Get some beeps and says 'code' afterwards. tried it twice and pulled it as I didn't want to get stuck in 'wait' mode.


Any ideas? Anything special you need to do other than input the code? My current radio has a bad LCD panel and I have this free one that is in better shape I'd like to use for the time being.

[JDStrickland]

It's too late, you are already locked out.

Install the radio, turn it on, set the key to Position II (RUN, before engine start) and wait a while. Retry the correct code.

[Moron95M3]

It's too late, you are already locked out.

Install the radio, turn it on, set the key to Position II (RUN, before engine start) and wait a while. Retry the correct code.

Is this 'wait' stored in the radio itself then? If so this could make sense. Anyway to know it's on a 'wait' period? I got stuck with my old radio once before here and I thought it was obvious.


Regardless, I'll try tonight if I find some time.

[JDStrickland]

You get three chances to input the correct code, then the radio locks itself.

The idea is that the crooks steal the radio and sit around smoking pot and keying in codes until they hit on the right one. Since the radio sees three wrong attempts, then it goes into a lock-out mode that takes an extended period to clear before three more attempts will be accepted. Crooks have to sit around smoking more pot than they have to break into a radio that really isn't worth the trouble, so they do not steal them. With the delay that it takes to clear the Code Counter, crooks would be smoking pot for years as they try three codes at a time.

[jagerking]

I think the beeping is the indicator that it's in "wait" mode. I just unhooked my battery a week ago for the sub install, and had to put the code back in. There wasn't any beeping on the key presses, and I think I remember that from the manual being your indicator that you needed to wait. It's at least worth a shot. Hook up the battery charger to it, turn it to "on", and go drink a beer. I think it takes about an hour of waiting before it'll accept the code.

[Moron95M3]

understand...but I only tried the code twice (as I'm aware of the lock). But is the history stored in the radio? or the car?

Here's exactly what I did:
Key off
Unistall current sort of working radio.
Plug in new radio
Key on.
Radio says 'code'
Enter code
Radio still says code....
Enter correct code again. no change.
Disconnect radio, pissed, reinstall old radio.
enter old radio code and old radio is working fine...

- - - Updated - - -

I think the beeping is the indicator that it's in "wait" mode. I just unhooked my battery a week ago for the sub install, and had to put the code back in. There wasn't any beeping on the key presses, and I think I remember that from the manual being your indicator that you needed to wait. It's at least worth a shot. Hook up the battery charger to it, turn it to "on", and go drink a beer. I think it takes about an hour of waiting before it'll accept the code.

Perfect, thanks.

[ChuckDizzle]

I had to drive around for 15-20 minutes while the radio displayed "CODE" and then entered the digits and it unlocked.

[jagerking]

I would bet that the radio (even being stored completely removed from a power source) can remember how many "tries" have been initiated to put the code back in. It can remember both my radio presets, and even my audio settings for bass and treble. I'm sure it can remember that. Absolute worse case scenario, you can always swap the screen of the new radio to the old one.

[Moron95M3]

I would bet that the radio (even being stored completely removed from a power source) can remember how many "tries" have been initiated to put the code back in. It can remember both my radio presets, and even my audio settings for bass and treble. I'm sure it can remember that. Absolute worse case scenario, you can always swap the screen of the new radio to the old one.

That was actually my next thing to try lol. Thanks all!

[JDStrickland]

understand...but I only tried the code twice (as I'm aware of the lock). But is the history stored in the radio? or the car?

Here's exactly what I did:
Key off
Unistall current sort of working radio.
Plug in new radio
Key on.
Radio says 'code'
Enter code
Radio still says code....
Enter correct code again. no change.
Disconnect radio, pissed, reinstall old radio.
enter old radio code and old radio is working fine...

- - - Updated - - -




Perfect, thanks.

YOU only entered the code twice. You don't know who entered the code several times before the radio arrived on your front porch.

[Moron95M3]

YOU only entered the code twice. You don't know who entered the code several times before the radio arrived on your front porch.

yup exactly. Which is why I was asking if the radio stored that info or the car did. Should be good once I get home.

[JDStrickland]

The radio holds it. The idea is to protect the radio from being removed from the car, that said there is no point in the car keeping track of how many times the radio is attempted to be hacked.

[Moron95M3]

Brief update. I realized I cannot get the radio to get to 'wait' mode. It is stuck at 'code'. A similar issue has popped up before with no results.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...learing-memory

and:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-work-in-Radio


I let it sit at ignition 2 for 2 hrs, did not work.

It's now sitting in ignition 1 and I'll see if that works.




WORST case...I'm going to tear both radios apart. My current radio has worn buttons, a bad left hand LCD, and a dead bulb on the right LCD. The 'new' radio has good buttons, good left hand LCD, bad LCD but with a good bulb.

Figure I can put the good stuff into my old radio and make it one good OEM radio
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-radio-display

and do this too...if I can on the older style HU
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-E36-head-unit

[jagerking]

If you're going to go through the trouble of taking the radio apart, for sure do the AUX-in DIY. I did it, and it works great. I don't use it a ton (mostly just listen to the radio around town), but on the longer drives like Leavenworth, it was really nice to have Pandora the whole way. I had an old 3.5mm jack cord laying around, and it soldiered right in. I had to drill a hole through the back of the radio for the cord though.

[Moron95M3]

^ only problem is I have the older style HU (not the C33 or newer). So I'm a bit worried about that. I'm also going to try to use a 5 pin 3.5mm switching jack, so I don't need a dummy cassette or whatever. I think I could retain using the cassette maybe too?

I think I'm forced to use the cassette if it's inserted, so I think I have to do it like this. I'll play with that later...

[jagerking]

What I was figuring out (and I'm not an expert, but it makes sense) is that the spot you soldier the AUX cable onto the board is upstream of the amplifier, and it basically tapping into what audio signal the tape player is sending the amp (when the tape player is switched on). So, as you mentioned earlier, if you want to listen to a tape (do people even have those anymore...?), you just don't plug anything into the AUX line. I don't think there is any other real good way to trick the tape player into turning on (and therefore sending the input signal to the amp) besides having a tape in there. I don't know about the older units, but mine has the little flapper door that closes behind the tape; no one can even see it's there. Most people always give me the slant eye when the deck says "Tape A" while we're listening to AUX input.

[Moron95M3]

What I was figuring out (and I'm not an expert, but it makes sense) is that the spot you soldier the AUX cable onto the board is upstream of the amplifier, and it basically tapping into what audio signal the tape player is sending the amp (when the tape player is switched on). So, as you mentioned earlier, if you want to listen to a tape (do people even have those anymore...?), you just don't plug anything into the AUX line. I don't think there is any other real good way to trick the tape player into turning on (and therefore sending the input signal to the amp) besides having a tape in there. I don't know about the older units, but mine has the little flapper door that closes behind the tape; no one can even see it's there. Most people always give me the slant eye when the deck says "Tape A" while we're listening to AUX input.

I would think there is a mechanical switch that is switched when the tape is inserted. I'm hoping to piggy back on that switch for the 4th and 5th pin so I don't need the tape. So I plug a cord into the aux input, and it automatically goes to 'tape' as if you just inserted a tape. (btw, the jack is like that in a computer, when you plug in headphones it knows you're using them and doesn't send sound to the speakers).

We'll see. I might tinker tonight if I have some time

[jagerking]

Ohhhh! Now I gotcha. That would be slick! I'm sure there is a switch like you're talking about (obviously the radio knows when to go into tape mode), you'd just have to track it down. I can wire just about anything, but I'm terrible with figuring out stuff like that, especially involving wiring diagrams. I can't even figure out which A/C wires I need to jumper so my AUX fan works on low.