The fuse box is in the engine bay, near the driver side suspension tower. On the cover of the box it says what functions the various fuses cover. The turn signals fuse is no.12. In very hot weather the fuses can separate from their holder and therefore a lost connection, broken circuit.
A fix for the issue is covered here:
Melting fuse box
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Yes, that is correct. They are on all e12s with power windows, and stop a circuit overload.
I'm experiencing a no start issue with my e12 and really need help diagnosing it, but first some background.
I just bought my first e12 about 6 months ago. The car was running fine although it did have trouble on cold starts and idle (had to blip gas pedal) but ran fine once warmed up. one day it randomly died on the road, would not start back up, battery dies from me cranking. I tried to jump start it, but connected the jumper cables backwards (my ground cable is red for some reason). the jumper cables stayed connected like this for around 5-10 mins, i didnt see any weird sparks or smoke or else i wouldve removed it immediately. Couldnt figure out why it wouldnt start so i parked it. I came back the next day, it started fine without a jump. I drove it maybe 6-8 times (once every few weeks) since then and it ran fine. 2 weeks ago i went to drive it, found that someone had been inside and had rummaged through my car (doors were left unlocked). i tried to start the car, battery is dead and wont crank. there was also a very faint intermittent humming or buzzing noise coming from behind the dash or inside the engine bay on the driver side, the noise continued even when i removed the key from the ignition. I came back a couple days later, tried to jumpstart the car, connected the jumper cables backwards again (this time it sparked and melted the terminal a bit) it was only connected backwards momentarily, i corrected the jumper cables, the car cranks but does not start. I installed a new battery today, the car cranks much stronger but still does not start.
I dont know much about the e12 at all but have been doing some research within the past few days and so far my theories are :
-fried combination relay/cold start relay. I just bought a combination relay off amazon for 70 bucks, but the cold start relay seems to be no longer available.
-fried ignition system bad coil/distributor/cap? I took the cap off but not sure about the condition, here are some photos:
ddQfmyS.jpg3NTybRl.jpgNXYkGK7.jpg
The car also has a bunch of unplugged connectors and what looks like missing relays? Seems like the previous owner did some weird electrical stuff. Other issues with the car i havent chased include rear brake lights are always on, speedo doesnt work, fuel gauge doesnt work (sometimes stuck at empty, then sometimes stuck at full). Please let me know what you guys think about these issues as well, thank you in advance!
Here are the missing connectors and weird stuff i found under the hood
H0c3PjS.jpgthis one got tangled in the hood mechanism some how, looks like its supposed to plug into a relay?
KiL72lq.jpg same looking plug located next to alternator, not much slack on this wire i couldnt pull it all the way up
These last 2 photos are smaller connectors located on the driver side near the combo relay (forum wouldnt let me upload more than 5 photos)
https://i.imgur.com/Ox1OKeV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7e5hl4X.jpg
Last edited by vasol; 08-13-2019 at 02:12 AM.
I couldn't open the last pictures.
Anyway. I don't know those engines, but I'd say trace the wire that got caught, and the one behind the alternator. See where they go, then you might be able to figure out what they do.
And PLEASE fix those wire colours. Misconnecting the battery is one of the worst things you can do, ask my father with his W126.
Apart from that, I'd say go for the basics. Do you have spark? If yes, test for fuel.
EDIT: In case you're wondering, my father got lucky. Only cost him an alternator, coil and fuse for the original Becker.
Last edited by JKuhn; 08-13-2019 at 05:00 AM.
1999 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster - show project
1970 VW 411L Auto - show/restoration project (sold)
1982 BMW 518i E12/8 - stolen
1987 Mazda 323 1.5 SL - daily driver, backup show car
As JKuhn said, start with the basics. You can check the cold start injector (solenoid going into the intake manifold), by seeing if it squirts gas into a glass jar when the engine starts, or tries to.
It sounds like you have many issues going on. I would run all this by www.firstfives.org, which deals with e12s exclusively, and will help locate parts.
Hi,
I just found this thread after posting my request in the audio forum so I hope that posting it here is ok, it’s great to see a section for the e12, I have a beautiful e12 528i here in Australia that I have totally restored and I just love it.
Below is a copy of the post I submitted regarding my radio. I hope someone can help me locate this manual.
I am wondering if anyone would be able to help me. I am trying to locate either an actual manual or a copy of the Operating Instructions for an old Becker BMW Bavaria CR VF cassette radio for my e12 528i
This radio was very common in the 1970s and early 1980s in every market except here in Australia.
I have fitted one of these radios to my fully restored e12 528i and would really like the manual to complete my service and operating manuals for my car.
If anyone can help, please let me know. Probably best to send me an email directly to ausjet@bigpond.com as it seems that some notifications from this forum aren’t reaching me.
Thanks everyone,
Scott
Hi Scott, I'm just the opposite to you. I have the manual for the Blaupunkt Frankfurt, but the original owner changed the set to a Phillips cassette player in the '80s! I think you should visit www.e12.de and contact Ulrich Thieme, he might know where to get what you want.
Hey there
I wanted to tell you i found a donner car for a m30b28 swap for a sweet price and the baby sixes are rare where i live so i said why not do a whole swap im doing the whole thing brakes suspensions engine mounts... so lets hope for the best
Im swapping ky baby six for an m30b28 from a donner car
Yess in quite excited for this project the donner car has a like new engine with everything at my disposal and not to mention the big brake cervo which will drastically upgrade my in dire need brakes
Question will my old fuse box be compatible for the electronic wiring for the fuel injection ?
Hi, apologies if I am posting in the wrong place.
Does anyone have knowledge on the calipers for a e12 m535i 1980? My calipers appear to have previously been upgraded to allow for a thicker 28mm disc, which is no longer availble. In order to restore them back to work with the standard 25mm thickness, I need to replace the spacers with the standard ones, but no one appears to be able to tell me where these are available. Without these I will be unable to get my car back on the road. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would say yes, I remember a carb e12 528 being converted to L-jet, and that used the original fusebox.
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You are looking for the part from an e23 7 series, that's what the e12 M535i used for front brakes. Try specialists Walloth & Nesch, or UK 2002 experts Jaymic.
Just a question
The fan and my radiator are slighly close to each other
Not the usual placing of a normal 528i
But its slightly close i mean its a feather like distance
Does it affect the cooling system? Or do i have a bad water pump ?
Cz my temperature gauge is crossing the third tick and almost reaches the 4th and sometimes it passes the 4th by a hairline
I don't think it'll affect cooling. But I'd be careful with something like that. You don't want the fan blades to bend at higher RPM and hit the radiator.
That said, check your cooling system. Pump, thermostat, radiator (make sure it's not blocked). If I'm not mistaken these cars still had proper cooling systems, unlike modern BMWs where everything is made of plastic.
1999 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster - show project
1970 VW 411L Auto - show/restoration project (sold)
1982 BMW 518i E12/8 - stolen
1987 Mazda 323 1.5 SL - daily driver, backup show car
Okay one more thing
I have a rear locking differential would it destroy the car if i wanted to power slide on a corner?
As in would the body be damaged? Or the transmission parts be damaged?
Btw i have old style bbs rims 14"
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Btw this forum is awesome filled with great people that are enthusiastic towards the E12 I'm happy I'm a part of it
Your cooling problem, knowing you started with a 520/6, the small engined e12s and e28s had a small radiator mounted on a steel surround that brought the radiator closer to the shorter motor. On the 525/528/528i etc there was no steel surround. The radiator was larger and mounted further away. It sounds like you are still using the small radiator, mounted in its original location? This could explain the clearance being tight, and the engine running warm. If you have a picture of the engine bay to share it would be great.
You also need to check the viscous fan is doing its job. E12 BMWs have a two sided thermostat, and a fan clutch that engages and disengages the engine driven fan when required.
You can powerslide with the car's normal differential, it shouldn't cause damage.
Last edited by e12Euro; 09-12-2019 at 12:46 PM. Reason: extra info
Thanks for the picture. I can see you have converted to the big radiator and it looks fine. There usually isn't much clearance between the fan and radiator on these cars. I think why it looks close is because the radiator shroud isn't in place.
The shroud would help with cooling. That said, a radiator flush can help, and all the other usual cooling system checks. If the radiator is leaking, the face of the radiator will feel wet, You could also check the level of coolant in your overflow tank. If the engine is running too lean, that can cause it to overheat. Vacuum leaks can cause the motor to run lean, basically sucking in too much air. All gaskets have to be checked. gaskets for the intake manifold. I find you have to put a new exhaust manifold gasket on, clean both surfaces and put a fresh gasket, otherwise you never get a good seal.
Basically you have to check for coolant leaks, vacuum leaks, if the viscous fan cuts in, and if necessary the water pump. A lot of debris can be in a radiator, and the tubes are fine so can get clogged, hence the need to flush.
Also, if the ignition timing is too far retarded the engine will run hot. How are your fuel injectors? It's quite common for some of them to be blocked or spraying poorly, this can lead to leaning out and overheating too.
Last edited by e12Euro; 09-12-2019 at 04:31 PM. Reason: More info
My fuel injectors are fine
Btw its the baby 6's radiator
But its the same size i just flipped the sides
Btw my car doesnt have a thermostat cz we still identifying the overheating problem
If we place the thermostat now it would increase the heat levels
Okay and does the size of the rims affect the car's transmission and differential? I have 14" i was thinking of getting 16"
And uhm what oil type does the m30 use
Sorry im asking alot but when it comes to cars im picky and wanna know everything
16 x 7.5 in rims with 225/50 tires are as large as you can go, without wheelwell clearance issues. This has been done on an e12 and it works.
Any modern synthetic oil is fine. The main problem with engines is people not changing the oil, ever! So, just changing the oil is a good thing. Changing the oil in the gearbox and differential is good too.
Ok so its officially finished
and it is a beast its giving the e92 and e46 a run for their money especially those with the 3.0 engine
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