Seeing this kinda stuff makes me glad I live in CA and own a CA car, 150k so far and no rust
thanks for the replies guys. I will not be paying 5k to fix it. If anything, I will patch it as best as I can either myself or have the shop do it (they did say they can patch...)
Regardless, I'll do something that's a bit cheaper (sub 1000) and keep driving this car into the ground
not going to let it go out the easy way and part it just yet I will be getting a completely rust free car though when this one is through (never will leave E36's)
Dude, it's a 15 year old car that's been around the world 4 times. Any additional mileage you get from this point on it's just a bonus, as the car has lived a proper life. In my opinion, don't put another penny into it, and drive it until it falls apart. When it dies, or the rust is unbearable, the swap or sell the parts that are worth anything.
93 318i red/tan - 131,xxx - bone stock daily driver
02 x5 4.6is titanium silver/black alcantara - dinan stage 4 - eibach/bilstein - brembo 380/345mm bbk - 149k miles - sold
95 m3 hellrot/black - dinan stage 1 - koni 1150 - arc8 - 155k miles - sold
My friend, your car looks great, especially for 200k. Not enough people are giving your car the love it deserves. Even with the rust, it'll continue to last you for a long while.
You appreciate your car and you've developed a serious relationship with it throughout the years. I'm guessing that you've learned a lot in the process too. I respect that. To you, it's not just "no big deal I'll buy a fresh M3 from the south". (I'm not saying that's a bad option either.)
As a few have suggested, it would be an awesome and rewarding process to get a clean E36 shell (doesn't have to be an M3), and transfer all of the parts over, including the drivetrain/interior if etc. It would be like a full restoration. You could replace all worn or damaged parts in the process, clean every part, reassemble everything fresh, and make improvements too. Use brand-new carpets, speakers, bearings, suspension parts, etc. Ideally you could get an all-new top-quality 2011 paintjob ($$$, but if you had the body stripped, the price would be less and the results would be amazing). It wouldn't necessarily be that hard, but it's a huge project. And it would be very cool.
E36 for life, keep her going ...
Does look very nice, better then mine (194K+) but I'm not really putting any more $$ in it these days. Will hit 200K this Summer. Mine started with one year in Atlanta, been in CA/AZ/CA ever since, so no rust, though some Clear Coat failure. We had some major rain for days on end and at work mine sits outside (Garage at home) and the passenger side mirror and back edge of the hood closest to it both suffered. Weird...
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
Last edited by GG Allin; 04-09-2011 at 11:47 AM.
1988 911 - Carb'd - Twin Plug - 3.6
1999 SL 500
2016 4Runner TEP - Gone
1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone
1998 M3 - Gone
1991 M5 - Gone
1993 RS America - Gone
1995 M3 - Gone
bill the state for the rust damage. (sarcasm)
I bought a so. cal. car and I am worried the same thing might happen to me here in Utah. I try to garage mine in the winter but it is difficult.
A new shell turns his car into a NON-M3, not a solution IMHO.
This is kinda like taking a 6cyl Dodge Dart dropping in a Hemi and associated running gear and declaring the car a HEMI ( but in reverse ).
The VIN will not match to a M3 ( or a Hemi )
Best option would be to buy an M3 that is kinda ragged out but is from a salt free region and has a solid power train. Build the car to spec, swap all mods over, done.
^^Yea I'll be on it when I need to be. Although I'm really not worried if it's an M or not...I know that it will be in its heart...
I'm going to Austin next year for the F1 race and taking 10 days down there...I'm very tempted to start my rust free car search down there...
No. You're suggesting that it's better to let the car rust & rot rather than swap in "Non-M3" body parts?
Get over it. The only that your matching M3 VINs matter is if you have a perfectly stock, near-mint M3 (i.e. a collector's item). Once you start modding your car, and especially in the case of a 200k example that has some rust, the matching "M3" VINs mean nothing, and it makes a lot more sense to swap in clean parts to keep the car looking fresh, and to keep it on the road.
Besides the VIN, which really means nothing, there's no difference between many of the M/non-M body panels.
Moron, she looks great, keep working on her, keep her on the road!
Thanks alheim
Here's some more recent pics...it's now at 215k..going strong!
(yea I had some fun with some parts...but I know they can be transferred or sold if/when this car is done).
(new bumper/lip/decal/wing/fogs/ZKWs/Sparco wheel)
Last edited by Moron95M3; 10-12-2011 at 12:36 PM.
Looks good. Moron.
<3
I think the new mods look good! It is amazing how nice you've kept that car despite the age, mileage, and what the underside looks like. You have me concerned about mine now too because I live just north of Detroit...
Did you figure out how to check and see if your sunroof drain is clogged and how to fix it? I'm definitely going to check out my under-body rust situation this weekend. I know it was rusty under there but hopefully I can catch mine while it's still at a repairable level, so thanks for the eye-opener.
BTW, was that first picture taken in Calumet and the second somewhere along 41 on the way to Copper Harbor?
Black 1999 Dodge Dakota R/T -- Mopar / Weekend Toy
Black 1999 BMW M3 Coupe -- M-Power / Daily Driver
Thanks! And yep, it's worth a check for sure!
The way I should test (and this is how we tested when I worked at GM in the moveable tops area - is to open the sunroof and pour water in the rails and watch for it to come out. I haven't done it yet though :/
Nope, actually down here in IL. First is Rantoul AirForce base, second is just some little road that I try to imagine is 41/26 (ever since I moved away from MTU I haven't found any roads as open, unrestricted, and awesome as that 25 mile loop from 41 -> Copper harbor ->26 back to 41.
...I'm leaving today though to go up there, and mainly go cruising, sounds like you understand
i've got the same problem with my car man, though my floor pans aren't rusted through haha. call me crazy but i plan on getting myself a winter beater and restoring the car once i secure a work space. if you've got a welder and some determination, im sure you can do the same. an e36, especially an m like yours, is worth keeping on the road imo. good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Last edited by ckpitt55; 10-13-2011 at 09:41 AM.
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
looks awesome!!!
Nice update!
You're in too deep to let her go now. I'd keep driving her until something catastrophic happens and it doesn't make financial sense to repair. Keep on keepin on!
Looks great. Keep this gem alive!
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