So I went down to have a go at taking off the control arms (the first logical step ) and noticed that I already have poly bushed FCABs - or at least they appeared to be poly underneath all the dust. While it's always nice to learn something new about your car (and the PO) this made me reconsider replacing the ball joints because I was planning on doing the FCABs at the same time.
Is there a good way of testing the condition of the ball joints without removing the control arm? If they're truely in need of replacing then I'll gladly do it.
You could only notice the play once the control arm was off though, right? I don't recall seeing any torn boots but I don't know how loose the ball joints feel. Chances are, if the PO took the time to replace the FCABs he also replaced the control arms... at least, that's my hypothesis
I didn't really check for play before removing the CAs.
The play was in the Y axis...as if you pull the stud up and down the ball would move up and down in the cup. Perhaps you could feel play if you wedge a crowbar inbetween the CA and the spindle and try to move it around.
Its possible to just replace the FCABs without removing the CAs...
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
^ Same number...
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Can we explore this again? E30M3 aluminum arms are marketed for 95M3s, this we know.
Now are steel E30 control arms DIFFERENT (in geometry) than the Aluminum ones?
What I'm getting at, is whether or not the steel E30arms would work on an E36, specifically the 95.
EDIT - Looking through threads, it does appear the non M-E30 steel arms are identical to the 95M3 arms, offering another cheaper option to 95M3 owners. $90 bucks for new arms vs. $200. If accurate, what is BMW doing, stamping different p/n's on these things as they come off the line to charge E36 people more money?
Last edited by trahsub; 02-29-2012 at 04:45 PM.
95' M3 - Current
I just swapped in a E30 Inner ball joint into my 1998 E36 M3 Control arm. I used my air-hammer and my torch. Took me a little over an hour to get the job done.
E30 ball joint = $20 with my shop discount. They even drove it to my shop. Saved a bunch of cash. This saves $$$$$
Thanks to whoever figured this out.
Last edited by M3GSX; 04-03-2012 at 09:56 PM.
Then:
Arctic Silver E36 M3 Turbo - Built S52 + T76
Cosmos Black E36 M3 Turbo - Built S52 6766 Torque Monster
03 Evo 8 973whp/653wtq 9.9@147mph (@818whp)
94 Toyota Supra Single Turbo 1000hp+++
Now:
2013 F30 335i M Sport - 6 Speed Manual - stock!
Sorry to bump an old thread but does anyone have the dimensions of the inner ball joint? Trying to see if 31121126253 will fit in a Non-M control arm. I'm aware the outer is larger but looking to see if this ball joint would fit.
Last edited by shogun; 02-05-2016 at 08:45 AM.
What about a non M arm? Do regular e30 balljoints fit? I have centered lcab bushings and M3 spindles/brakes. Is it wrong that I'm using non M arms?
Last edited by trahsub; 10-13-2012 at 11:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
95' M3 - Current
Geometry has been confirmed the same...pretty much. It's the composition of the ball joints. Lots of theories...with 95s>E30>96-99 being strongest in that order...but that is only what I have read. Only thing confirmed is that there is plastic in the ball joints the DIY guy cut open, which were from an E36 OBD2 M3 I believe.
95' M3 - Current
Just to continue adding data points, I'm at 20,000 miles on my e30 lemfoeder bushings. This includes about 70 autocross runs with sticky 245 tires all around. So far no complaints.
Just called a local shop. They quoted me $120 labor to remove and press new ball joints for both control arm. (thats $30/ball joint Is this reasonable? What's the going rate?
2008 Honda Odyssey Touring
1998 Arctic Silver ///M3 Sedan (Bone Stock )
1995 Arctic Silver ///M3 3.2L OBD1-Vortech SC Stage 2 w/ Schrick Cams, Aftercooler, and FMHE. Aquamist 1S, 3.38 LSD, AA Gen III exhaust, BMW OEM X-brace, //M Motorsport Brace, Front Euro Floaters w/ Ultimate Axxis, Koni Sports w/ H&R sport springs, Eibach Sways, UUC Evo3 SSK w/DSSR, Euro clear all around and Ellipsoids, Alpine CDA-7864 w/ Blaupunkt Amp JL stealth boxes, Forged LTW Staggered Rims.
The Forced has been Introduced!98M3 OBD2 parts, Intake manifolds, Reducers, etc etc.......Click here to email me
Euro 6spd Gear box - Installed!
so do the control arms minus the ball joints ever go bad? they look like pretty sturdy pieces of steel, if all you have to do is replace balljoints sounds like a good deal.
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 04-17-2013 at 04:09 AM. Reason: profanity
Just thought I would pass some more information along.
I own a small e30 specialty shop and keep e30 ball joints on hand. Had a 1995 318ti come in with bad outer ball joints. As always, I do a complete rebuild when replacing just the outers, since the control arms come out anyways, why not spend the few extra minutes to replace the CAB's and inner joints as well. Called my supplier to order all four, they told me that the inners don't exist - little did he know haha.
I peeled the boot off the inner joints, took measurements and low-and-behold, the inner joints are the very same 41mm diameter. Of course on the non-M e36, the outer joints are specific with the strange tab on the bottom and are e36 specific, but all in all, the 1995 e36 inner joints joints can be replaced with the e30 part.
To verify, pry the little circlip off the ball joint boot and use a digital caliper to verify, but something tells me BMW just wanted to sell the entire control arm.
I have been replacing the M ball joints for some time now, using e30, never knew this thread existed until I wanted to see if other people thought of doing this to the non-M arms.
Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 10-26-2012 at 04:19 PM.
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
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