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Thread: E36 M3 Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement with E30

  1. #76
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    So I went down to have a go at taking off the control arms (the first logical step ) and noticed that I already have poly bushed FCABs - or at least they appeared to be poly underneath all the dust. While it's always nice to learn something new about your car (and the PO) this made me reconsider replacing the ball joints because I was planning on doing the FCABs at the same time.

    Is there a good way of testing the condition of the ball joints without removing the control arm? If they're truely in need of replacing then I'll gladly do it.

    Avusblau 1994 Euro M3 --> Journal Here
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  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3MPowered View Post
    So I went down to have a go at taking off the control arms (the first logical step ) and noticed that I already have poly bushed FCABs - or at least they appeared to be poly underneath all the dust. While it's always nice to learn something new about your car (and the PO) this made me reconsider replacing the ball joints because I was planning on doing the FCABs at the same time.

    Is there a good way of testing the condition of the ball joints without removing the control arm? If they're truely in need of replacing then I'll gladly do it.

    If the boots are torn on the ball joints thats a good indication they are on their way out. All 4 of the boots on my ball joints were torn but only one ball joint had excessive free play.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayjaya29 View Post
    If the boots are torn on the ball joints thats a good indication they are on their way out. All 4 of the boots on my ball joints were torn but only one ball joint had excessive free play.
    You could only notice the play once the control arm was off though, right? I don't recall seeing any torn boots but I don't know how loose the ball joints feel. Chances are, if the PO took the time to replace the FCABs he also replaced the control arms... at least, that's my hypothesis

    Avusblau 1994 Euro M3 --> Journal Here
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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3MPowered View Post
    You could only notice the play once the control arm was off though, right? I don't recall seeing any torn boots but I don't know how loose the ball joints feel. Chances are, if the PO took the time to replace the FCABs he also replaced the control arms... at least, that's my hypothesis
    I didn't really check for play before removing the CAs.

    The play was in the Y axis...as if you pull the stud up and down the ball would move up and down in the cup. Perhaps you could feel play if you wedge a crowbar inbetween the CA and the spindle and try to move it around.

    Its possible to just replace the FCABs without removing the CAs...

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by XVehicleFTE View Post
    I just received these today.

    The part numbers I ordered are different than what others here are mentioning.... Yet they still say they fit the same car, e30 m3.

    01331626314

    And:

    01331626314


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  6. #81
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  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by XVehicleFTE View Post








    Jon
    This is exactly why this board is still alive.
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  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3two8eye View Post
    When I replaced the control arms in my 95 M3 I just bought ones for an e30 M3 (I think). According to Turner they are interchangable, but the e30 arms are $90 vs. $189.

    EDIT: Savage217 has done the e30 arms as well.
    Can we explore this again? E30M3 aluminum arms are marketed for 95M3s, this we know.

    Now are steel E30 control arms DIFFERENT (in geometry) than the Aluminum ones?

    What I'm getting at, is whether or not the steel E30arms would work on an E36, specifically the 95.

    EDIT - Looking through threads, it does appear the non M-E30 steel arms are identical to the 95M3 arms, offering another cheaper option to 95M3 owners. $90 bucks for new arms vs. $200. If accurate, what is BMW doing, stamping different p/n's on these things as they come off the line to charge E36 people more money?
    Last edited by trahsub; 02-29-2012 at 04:45 PM.
    95' M3 - Current


  9. #84
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    I just swapped in a E30 Inner ball joint into my 1998 E36 M3 Control arm. I used my air-hammer and my torch. Took me a little over an hour to get the job done.

    E30 ball joint = $20 with my shop discount. They even drove it to my shop. Saved a bunch of cash. This saves $$$$$

    Thanks to whoever figured this out.
    Last edited by M3GSX; 04-03-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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  10. #85
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    Sorry to bump an old thread but does anyone have the dimensions of the inner ball joint? Trying to see if 31121126253 will fit in a Non-M control arm. I'm aware the outer is larger but looking to see if this ball joint would fit.
    Last edited by shogun; 02-05-2016 at 08:45 AM.

  11. #86
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    Im so confused... Whats the point in doing all the extra work pressing in e30 balljoints. OEM arm bushings are good for 5ish years

    Quote Originally Posted by RRSperry View Post
    And when they fail you can look forward to doing it again... You really aren't the first person to think of this...
    +1

  12. #87
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    What about a non M arm? Do regular e30 balljoints fit? I have centered lcab bushings and M3 spindles/brakes. Is it wrong that I'm using non M arms?

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by hellrot328m View Post
    What about a non M arm? Do regular e30 balljoints fit? I have centered lcab bushings and M3 spindles/brakes. Is it wrong that I'm using non M arms?
    The non-M arms use non M-arm ball joints. The M arms were considered not serviceable from the factory. But I believe most of the non-M people switch to the solid bushings of the m3.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by trahsub View Post
    Can we explore this again? E30M3 aluminum arms are marketed for 95M3s, this we know.

    Now are steel E30 control arms DIFFERENT (in geometry) than the Aluminum ones?

    What I'm getting at, is whether or not the steel E30arms would work on an E36, specifically the 95.

    EDIT - Looking through threads, it does appear the non M-E30 steel arms are identical to the 95M3 arms, offering another cheaper option to 95M3 owners. $90 bucks for new arms vs. $200. If accurate, what is BMW doing, stamping different p/n's on these things as they come off the line to charge E36 people more money?
    Self bump. I'm planning to order new arms for my 95M3. I'm going to order steel E30 arms...which I think will net the same results as if I were to replace the ball joints on my currents arms with the E30 ball joints referenced on page 1??
    Last edited by trahsub; 10-13-2012 at 11:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    95' M3 - Current


  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by trahsub View Post
    Self bump. I'm planning to order new arms for my 95M3. I'm going to order steel E30 arms...which I think will net the same results as if I were to replace the ball joints on my currents arms with the E30 ball joints referenced on page 1??
    Are the geometries of the arms themselves the same?
    -Chris

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeD View Post
    Are the geometries of the arms themselves the same?
    I believe they are the same geometry as the 95 arms, maybe some else can confirm as i'm not 100% sure.

  17. #92
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    Geometry has been confirmed the same...pretty much. It's the composition of the ball joints. Lots of theories...with 95s>E30>96-99 being strongest in that order...but that is only what I have read. Only thing confirmed is that there is plastic in the ball joints the DIY guy cut open, which were from an E36 OBD2 M3 I believe.
    95' M3 - Current


  18. #93
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    Just to continue adding data points, I'm at 20,000 miles on my e30 lemfoeder bushings. This includes about 70 autocross runs with sticky 245 tires all around. So far no complaints.

  19. #94
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    Just called a local shop. They quoted me $120 labor to remove and press new ball joints for both control arm. (thats $30/ball joint Is this reasonable? What's the going rate?
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  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3Jokster View Post
    Just called a local shop. They quoted me $120 labor to remove and press new ball joints for both control arm. (thats $30/ball joint Is this reasonable? What's the going rate?
    The harbor freight press is around $100. I'd buy the press and do it myself, plus you get a press out of the deal.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3Jokster View Post
    Just called a local shop. They quoted me $120 labor to remove and press new ball joints for both control arm. (thats $30/ball joint Is this reasonable? What's the going rate?
    That sounds very reasonable to me. All depends on how much time you have and if you want a press.

  22. #97
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    so do the control arms minus the ball joints ever go bad? they look like pretty sturdy pieces of steel, if all you have to do is replace balljoints sounds like a good deal.


  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
    so do the control arms minus the ball joints ever go bad? they look like pretty sturdy pieces of steel, if all you have to do is replace balljoints sounds like a good deal.
    I doubt it, unless you really $%^& up the install and bend the arms...
    Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 04-17-2013 at 04:09 AM. Reason: profanity

  24. #99
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    Just thought I would pass some more information along.

    I own a small e30 specialty shop and keep e30 ball joints on hand. Had a 1995 318ti come in with bad outer ball joints. As always, I do a complete rebuild when replacing just the outers, since the control arms come out anyways, why not spend the few extra minutes to replace the CAB's and inner joints as well. Called my supplier to order all four, they told me that the inners don't exist - little did he know haha.

    I peeled the boot off the inner joints, took measurements and low-and-behold, the inner joints are the very same 41mm diameter. Of course on the non-M e36, the outer joints are specific with the strange tab on the bottom and are e36 specific, but all in all, the 1995 e36 inner joints joints can be replaced with the e30 part.

    To verify, pry the little circlip off the ball joint boot and use a digital caliper to verify, but something tells me BMW just wanted to sell the entire control arm.

    I have been replacing the M ball joints for some time now, using e30, never knew this thread existed until I wanted to see if other people thought of doing this to the non-M arms.
    Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 10-26-2012 at 04:19 PM.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
    so do the control arms minus the ball joints ever go bad? they look like pretty sturdy pieces of steel, if all you have to do is replace balljoints sounds like a good deal.
    The Aluminum ones do, but not the Steel ones. Many East Coast Tracks have a 2yr replacement policy on anyone running the Alum ones...

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