An expensive lesson to learn. Press the balljoints in the correct orientation. There should be marks on the arm (or pay attention to the orientation of the old ones).
Also, if you're using a harbor freight hand press for the small outer balljoint, use a small 30mm socket (12pt or 6pt don't matter) as an arbor to press out the small demolished ball joint. It fits perfectly.
Now I need to go source another ball joint because one was pressed in incorrectly........
Last edited by desynch; 11-18-2010 at 04:39 PM.
I think I am going to do this for my M3 vert.
I looked at Autohauz, Pelican, Tischer and RMEuro and only found Autohauz with Lemforder for the short ones and Meyle for the longer ones. Boge at RMEuro, nothing at Tischer and Pelican. Maybe updated numbers but if you sourced Lemforder where did you find them?
Thanks
Cool idea...
Instead of using a big breaker bar on the hand press (c-clamp style one), it's MUCH easier to just use an impact gun on it.
I've got a 650 lb-ft impact gun, and using a ball joint press, I've never met one I couldn't get out in under 30 seconds. I've done some pretty heavy duty truck ones with it, and it still did it. For ball joints as small as these, it's like they are not even there.
Just food for thought.
Also- good to know that these can be replaced. I've never needed to on the M, but figured I would need to eventually.
The 318 is due for them, though. 339k miles and counting.... sure eats up a lot of ball joints....
Im so glad i came across this thread.
But having a 95, why would i purchase ball joints when i can get new e30 arms for 90 each?
Last edited by rebs; 03-11-2011 at 07:13 PM.
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
Just did all of mine lower part of front suspension on my 95 M3
Did my research and my first quote was $746+ ship (L and R control arms, tie rods, sway links, LCAB'S,
Than I went with 4 ball joints for control arms, tie rods, sway links, and powerflex bushings = $242+ about $40 ship.
$464 in savings, I did all job my self and used my uncles shop and his press. Now just waiting for Monday to do my Alighment
Sent from my iPhone using BF.com
Last edited by kryatov123; 03-13-2011 at 04:46 AM.
I did press out the old ones today and installed the new ones. Lemforder for the outer and Meyle for the middle.
Here is why I used a press.
25 ton press went to over 5000 pounds to push the outer ball joints and 4000 for the middle. The idea of doing this with a ball joint C arm and using a rachet to get these out would have most likely broken the device.
It does take a series of sockets and bushings to get these out and in but all I need to do now is repaint the arms and install them with new LCABs.
Had to remove the boot and clip to make sure pressing them out was not going to be impeded by anything in the way.
Also was hard to determine the orientation of the outer ball joint with no mark on the control arm and the old ball joint was OEM with a BMW stanp and direction triangle. Middle joint is done just lining up the notches. There are notches on the outers too but there is an additional mounting mark so you don't get them 180 degrees wrong.
I am now curious as to how much tighter the front end will be once these are installed. New end links, new Bilsteins, new LCA ball joints and LCABs and new tie rods. If that doesn't help tighten up the front end I have no idea what will.
Kind of fun but man I would never do this without a press given how much force was used with this press to get them to pop...
Last edited by fun2drive; 06-29-2011 at 11:13 PM.
Seems like this thread started back in 2010. To any posters that posted back in 2010, and pressed in their own e30 ball joints, can you comment on how they are holding up?
Seems reasonable that they would work based on some of the measurements/dimensions etc that were taken, and that ball joints are made to be pressed in/out on a majority of chassis on numerous makes of cars, but it would be good to hear some actual feedback from the peeps who used them and have been driving on them for a bit. Any you guys out there? Please comment.
Lemforder inner balljoints only pressed in April 2010, 10K miles on them, still tight with no problems. I nicked both boots on the press and used gel Superglue to repair them - that appears to be holding up as well.
Matt Nucci
6/94 E36 M3 Cosmos CP
Over 20K on mine, they're working fine....
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
10k HARD miles on mine and they are holding up fine.
Mine are holding up fine. I used Jetninja's advice. Though just like fun2drive said, you need a pretty serious press. I don't recall the capacity of the press I used, but I was nervous and I wore my safety goggles. I would do it again in a heartbeat, because I am cheap and broke.
So for Part Numbers.....
The only thing I'm finding is Outer Ball joint e36 part# 31126758510
Meyle HD
Where are you getting the e30 parts/part numbers from? I assume you need that for the inner. I would just use above for the outer yes?
EDIT: Ok just saw they were on the first page. Above part number is NOT for 95, 96+ M3 Control arms. Use numbers below.
31 12 1 126 254
31 12 1 126 253
Last edited by Pink; 08-14-2011 at 02:43 AM.
Lemfoerder parts linked in this post.
I think it's already been mentioned but that e36 HD Meyle part I put a picture of above does not fit the e36M arms. It's much too big. I found the Lemfoerder's $130 for all 4 locally at ETY Parts in LA if anyone is looking in LA and wants a good place that has them.
The Meyle versions of the e30 M3 ball joints are not HD. (according to my dude, who says if it was HD it would say so, just regular Meyle.)
I ordered the myle's from Autohaus and they said "HD" on the box.
Did this job today using the 20 Ton Harbor Freight press. $160 using a 20% off coupon. Not a hard job at all using the press and some 3/4" sockets.
The press is a little spendy, but it's nice to have the ability to press control arm bushings, bearings, etc in the future. It breaks down pretty easily and doesn't take up much room.
so im thinking off doing this too.. but im alittle confused do the parts stated above like 31 12 1 126 253, 31 12 1 126 254 fit for an 97 e36 m3? or just for the 95's? and the meyle hd dont fit? but ^ alanilil just installed it? if anyone could clarify would be great... thanks think i will be going to get that press too
the ball joints will fit in either 95 or 96+ control arms, they are the same
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I need part # for Ball Joint for a 98 M3 Vert. I'm looking for the Meyle HD Ball Joint and also the inner one too. Thank you !
........ Why you no read?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=11
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...79&postcount=2
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4&postcount=63
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...0&postcount=57
From RealOem.com :
Part 31122228461 (Wishbone, left) was found on the following vehicles:
E36: Details on E36
E36 M3 Convertible
E36 M3 Sedan
E36 M3 Coupe
All of the M3 control arms are the same.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
oh snap.. Lemforder inside/outsides...
I'm ordering like 3 sets for all the old control arms I have in the garage
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
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